[[email protected]]

Back with a golden oldie... :-]

I want to hook up a car stereo inside my house. I have a computer power
supply, but don't know what wires from stereo to match up with what
wires from PS.

I am hoping for a description of which wires on car stereo

12volt Ign/Acc - Red
12volt Batt/Memory - Yellow
Ground - Black
Power Antenna - Blue
Amp turn on - Blue/White
Illumination - Orange
Dimmer - Orange/White

Rest are speaker leads-

To hook up with which wires on computer power supply.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...r/untitled.jpg

The pic is for a 20 pin, the power supply I have is 20/24 pin.

Note- I'm not able to hook it up to a car battery, or "fugget about it,
get a home stereo", etc. The closest I could come to that is someone
suggested hooking it up to a CB power supply, but I would have to trade
the PS I have now for it, pay postage, find someone to trade with, etc.
I'm going to go for the ATX, thanks for any help.

[Atomic Fusion]

The red and yellow wires on the deck should go to any +12VDC pin on the
power supply. Black should go to a corresponding ground wire. Blue and
blue/white on the deck should be left open (tape or cap them off). I
actually don't know what the illumination or dimmer wires are for
(never seen those) but those should be capped as well.

You should be able to manually turn the deck on and off by pressing and
holding a particular button, usually the source button. Since you are
hard wiring the ignition wire, the deck will always stay on.

Adam


--
Atomic Fusion

[Matt Ion]

wrote:
Back with a golden oldie... :-]

I want to hook up a car stereo inside my house. I have a computer power
supply, but don't know what wires from stereo to match up with what
wires from PS.

I am hoping for a description of which wires on car stereo

12volt Ign/Acc - Red
12volt Batt/Memory - Yellow
Ground - Black
Power Antenna - Blue
Amp turn on - Blue/White
Illumination - Orange
Dimmer - Orange/White

Rest are speaker leads-

To hook up with which wires on computer power supply.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...r/untitled.jpg

The pic is for a 20 pin, the power supply I have is 20/24 pin.

Note- I'm not able to hook it up to a car battery, or "fugget about it,
get a home stereo", etc. The closest I could come to that is someone
suggested hooking it up to a CB power supply, but I would have to trade
the PS I have now for it, pay postage, find someone to trade with, etc.
I'm going to go for the ATX, thanks for any help.

Atomic Fusion wrote:
The red and yellow wires on the deck should go to any +12VDC pin on the
power supply. Black should go to a corresponding ground wire. Blue and
blue/white on the deck should be left open (tape or cap them off). I
actually don't know what the illumination or dimmer wires are for
(never seen those) but those should be capped as well.

You should be able to manually turn the deck on and off by pressing and
holding a particular button, usually the source button. Since you are
hard wiring the ignition wire, the deck will always stay on.

The yellow leads on the ATX supply should be the +12V, black for ground (to keep
it easy, just use one of the HDD power connectors, instead of the ATX plug).

Antenna and amp turnon are +12V output - on some decks, both simply come on when
the deck is on; with others, the antenna lead will only come on when the radio
portion is on. Illumination and Dimmer wires are typicallly tied into the
dashlights in some cars (one or the other, not both) - with some decks, it will
simply dim the display a set amount when the dashlights are on; with others, the
brightness can be controlled along with the dashlights. Of course, how well all
that works also depends on how the dashlights are wired in the car, too...

Not that any of this is relevant to you, I only offer it for informational
purposes (aince Atomic Fusion was unclear). If MOSFET has unblocked me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for something to do...

[[email protected]]

The yellow leads on the ATX supply should be the +12V, black for ground (to keep
it easy, just use one of the HDD power connectors, instead of the ATX plug).

Antenna and amp turnon are +12V output - on some decks, both simply come on when
the deck is on; with others, the antenna lead will only come on when the radio
portion is on. Illumination and Dimmer wires are typicallly tied into the
dashlights in some cars (one or the other, not both) - with some decks, it will
simply dim the display a set amount when the dashlights are on; with others, the
brightness can be controlled along with the dashlights. Of course, how well all
that works also depends on how the dashlights are wired in the car, too...

Not that any of this is relevant to you, I only offer it for informational
purposes (aince Atomic Fusion was unclear). If MOSFET has unblocked me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for something to do...


No, thanks to both of you. I've heard people describe this before, but
they only talked about the wires used, never mentioning the other
wires, and I was like WTF? what about the other wires? Always good to
have the full amount of info when dealing with stuff like this.

So the blue/white wire is for an aftermarket amp? I wasn't sure if it
was the internal amp, etc.

Thanks again.

[Matt Ion]

wrote:
The yellow leads on the ATX supply should be the +12V, black for ground (to keep
it easy, just use one of the HDD power connectors, instead of the ATX plug).

Antenna and amp turnon are +12V output - on some decks, both simply come on when
the deck is on; with others, the antenna lead will only come on when the radio
portion is on. Illumination and Dimmer wires are typicallly tied into the
dashlights in some cars (one or the other, not both) - with some decks, it will
simply dim the display a set amount when the dashlights are on; with others, the
brightness can be controlled along with the dashlights. Of course, how well all
that works also depends on how the dashlights are wired in the car, too...

Not that any of this is relevant to you, I only offer it for informational
purposes (aince Atomic Fusion was unclear). If MOSFET has unblocked me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for something to do...



No, thanks to both of you. I've heard people describe this before, but
they only talked about the wires used, never mentioning the other
wires, and I was like WTF? what about the other wires? Always good to
have the full amount of info when dealing with stuff like this.

So the blue/white wire is for an aftermarket amp? I wasn't sure if it
was the internal amp, etc.

Thanks again.

What the blue wires do is provide a 12V OUTPUT when the deck is powered on (and
sometimes, as I said, only when the radio is on - these are rare, but they can
be confusing if a radio-only antenna trigger is used for an amp, because the amp
keeps shutting off when a tape/cd/etc is played, but works fine with the radio).
It's not intended to actually power the external amp or antenna, it only
provides a low-current turn-on trigger.

The amp or antenna will typically have another power feed connected to a source
capable of higher current: in the case of most amps, that's a connection
directly to the battery; for most power antennas, it's usually at least a
connection to SOME constant-power source (the antenna still needs to be able to
retract when the ignition/accessory switch is turned off) though not necessarily
its own connection straight to the battery.

Glad you found the information useful - my philosophy is to try to explain HOW
and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect slot A to tab B", because
in my experience, more knowledge is NEVER a bad thing, and if someone can learn
a little something and not need to ask "stupid questions", then everyone's
happier. To my mind, it also helps foster DISCUSSIONS, rather than just
maintaining a Q&A forum - your experience is an example.

If that makes me a show-off, so be it... at least one person now has a better
understanding of our shared hobby, and that's always a Good Thingtm.

[Kyle]

Just out of curiosity, have you gotten this project to work yet?

If I understand, you are only trying to hook up a head unit.
( I will probably be repeating someone )

All you need to do is, connect the head unit's red and yellow wires
to any yellow wire on the atx power supply, and connect the black wire
on the head unit to any black wire on the atx power supply.

If this doesn't work, or the power supply wont turn on, pleas repost
and let me know.

By the way, I currently am doing the same thing, but with a 4 channel
amp instead of an HU for my tv's sound.

By the way, the atx power supply is a good idea, because it provides
very clean power for the HU. Though with a cb radio power supply, you
might get a humming sound, and car batteries are unsafe in the house
and eventually run out of power

[Atomic Fusion]

Matt Ion Wrote:
wrote:
The yellow leads on the ATX supply should be the +12V, black for
ground (to keep
it easy, just use one of the HDD power connectors, instead of the ATX
plug).

Antenna and amp turnon are +12V output - on some decks, both simply
come on when
the deck is on; with others, the antenna lead will only come on when
the radio
portion is on. Illumination and Dimmer wires are typicallly tied
into the
dashlights in some cars (one or the other, not both) - with some
decks, it will
simply dim the display a set amount when the dashlights are on; with
others, the
brightness can be controlled along with the dashlights. Of course,
how well all
that works also depends on how the dashlights are wired in the car,
too...

Not that any of this is relevant to you, I only offer it for
informational
purposes (aince Atomic Fusion was unclear). If MOSFET has unblocked
me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for
something to do...



No, thanks to both of you. I've heard people describe this before,
but
they only talked about the wires used, never mentioning the other
wires, and I was like WTF? what about the other wires? Always good
to
have the full amount of info when dealing with stuff like this.

So the blue/white wire is for an aftermarket amp? I wasn't sure if
it
was the internal amp, etc.

Thanks again.

What the blue wires do is provide a 12V OUTPUT when the deck is powered
on (and
sometimes, as I said, only when the radio is on - these are rare, but
they can
be confusing if a radio-only antenna trigger is used for an amp,
because the amp
keeps shutting off when a tape/cd/etc is played, but works fine with
the radio).
It's not intended to actually power the external amp or antenna, it
only
provides a low-current turn-on trigger.

The amp or antenna will typically have another power feed connected to
a source
capable of higher current: in the case of most amps, that's a
connection
directly to the battery; for most power antennas, it's usually at least
a
connection to SOME constant-power source (the antenna still needs to be
able to
retract when the ignition/accessory switch is turned off) though not
necessarily
its own connection straight to the battery.

Glad you found the information useful - my philosophy is to try to
explain HOW
and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect slot A to tab B",
because
in my experience, more knowledge is NEVER a bad thing, and if someone
can learn
a little something and not need to ask "stupid questions", then
everyone's
happier. To my mind, it also helps foster DISCUSSIONS, rather than
just
maintaining a Q&A forum - your experience is an example.

If that makes me a show-off, so be it... at least one person now has a
better
understanding of our shared hobby, and that's always a Good Thingtm.

Lose the attitude, punk. If you've answered this question as many times
as I have, you wouldn't be writing paragraphs about it, either. You've
spent more time rambling about your practices on education and
inferring how unclear I was than actually answering his question. I
deliberately left a few bits out to corner him into using some basic
deductive logic (descriptions of all the deck wires are available in
his manual, and telling him to hook up to +12 volts on the power supply
forces him to think about that particular matter as well).

I rigged this up by myself when I was twelve years old with no help at
all, so I don't mind leaving some bits for people to figure on their
own.

Adam


--
Atomic Fusion

[brianlanning]

One thing no one's pointed out so far... most (all?) computer power
supplies have wires and/or circuitry in the atx motherboard connector
designed to detect whether a motherboard is present and functioning
correctly. Without a motherboard, good luck getting the power supply
to light up. You could just find an old junky motherboard to plug in
and do nothing with just to satisfy the power supply. Secondly, atx
motherboards have a header on the board designed to attach to the power
switch on the front of the case. This is in addition to the large
rocker switch on the back of the power supply. So you'll have to
provide a switch in addition to the junky motherboard so that the
motherboard will report to the power supply that everything is ok. You
might be able to find a piece of test electronics for testing power
supplies that pretends to be a motherboard.

Of course, you could fake out the power supply, but I have no idea how
to do this. It may be as simple as jumpering a couple wires on the atx
motherboard connector. Or it could be a lot more complicated than
that.

Alternatively, you could get a pre-ATX AT style power supply. IIRC,
these just powered on with the switch on the power supply. You'd still
need to make it look like there's a motherboard there though.

Another thing to remember is that the 300watt power ratings on those
things are fake. Just look at the wire gauge. In addition, the power
supply isn't designed to send all the power down one wire. It may be a
300 watt power supply, but chances are it can't supply more than a
fraction of that to any one HD connector or the motherboard. You may
not even get enough power on one HD connector. You could twist several
of them together, but this might freak out the power supply. I'm not
an electrical engineer.

If all you're going to do is run the head unit and some speakers, you
could pick up a notebook power supply somewhere. That would convert
the wall power into something like 12-16 volts DC. If it outputs
12-14.5 volts, you could cut the notebook connector off the wire and
wire that to the +12 line and ground wire on the notebook ps. That
should work great. Don't expect to get an external amp of much size to
work though.

Lastly, you could get a proper DC power supply to drive the thing. But
that would probably cost more than a boom box.

brian


wrote:
Back with a golden oldie... :-]

I want to hook up a car stereo inside my house. I have a computer power
supply, but don't know what wires from stereo to match up with what
wires from PS.

[Matt Ion]

Atomic Fusion wrote:

I rigged this up by myself when I was twelve years old with no help at
all, so I don't mind leaving some bits for people to figure on their
own.

Well gee, I'm sorry to have spoiled your fun in trying to make the n00b scramble.

[Matt Ion]

Kyle wrote:

If this doesn't work, or the power supply wont turn on, pleas repost
and let me know.

Oh yeah, that's the other concern with an ATX supply: the "soft-on" that's
normally triggered by the motherboard. Your board power connector pinouts
should show which wires need to connect to trigger it on.

Ideally, if you're going to go this route, and older AT-style PSU is preferable,
for the fact that it has a "hard" power switch. They're usually easy to find
cheap - pick up an old 286 for $5 at a yard sale, or something.

By the way, I currently am doing the same thing, but with a 4 channel
amp instead of an HU for my tv's sound.

How big an amp? Are you sure the PSU will provide enough current? I'm looking
at the side of a 300W unit right now, and it lists a max of 10A from the +12V
supply (it also lists the turn-on leads - very helpful of them!)

By the way, the atx power supply is a good idea, because it provides
very clean power for the HU. Though with a cb radio power supply, you
might get a humming sound, and car batteries are unsafe in the house
and eventually run out of power

I ran a test bench for years, using a battery and trickle charger. As long as
the area is well-ventilated, there's not usually a problem. A CB supply
SHOULDN'T cause hum; it has to be filtered well enough to not produce one in the
CB

[Matt Ion]

brianlanning wrote:

Of course, you could fake out the power supply, but I have no idea how
to do this. It may be as simple as jumpering a couple wires on the atx
motherboard connector. Or it could be a lot more complicated than
that.

It shouldn't be - just trigger the proper wire(s) and she'll fire right up.
SHOULD work, anyway.

Alternatively, you could get a pre-ATX AT style power supply. IIRC,
these just powered on with the switch on the power supply. You'd still
need to make it look like there's a motherboard there though.

Nope.... AT PSUs weren't typically that clever. The power switch was usually
attached at the front of the case via a big thick wire that actually interrupted
the incoming AC line, so you do have to be careful of that when using these things.

Another thing to remember is that the 300watt power ratings on those
things are fake. Just look at the wire gauge. In addition, the power
supply isn't designed to send all the power down one wire. It may be a
300 watt power supply, but chances are it can't supply more than a
fraction of that to any one HD connector or the motherboard. You may
not even get enough power on one HD connector. You could twist several
of them together, but this might freak out the power supply. I'm not
an electrical engineer.

Correct as well - looking at this 300W supply sitting right here, it lists 14A
capacity for the +3.3V output, 25A for +5V, 10A for +12V, 1A for +5VSB (standby
power??), and 0.5A for both -5V and -12V. I DON'T THINK that these supplies
typically "divide" a particular voltage individually to the separate wires - the
full 10A *should* be available to any device(s) on any of the +12V wires. Load
balancing is provided by Kirchoff's Law

Lastly, you could get a proper DC power supply to drive the thing. But
that would probably cost more than a boom box.

Something like this?
http://www.rpelectronics.com/English...s/PSR-1215.asp

13.8VDC@15A regulated-output switching supply, $123.

[MOSFET]

Lose the attitude, punk. If you've answered this question as many times
as I have, you wouldn't be writing paragraphs about it, either.
You've spent more time rambling about your practices on education and
inferring how unclear I was than actually answering his question.


Wow Matt, your making new friends left and right with this new "I'll show
MOSFET" attitude of yours:

If MOSFET has unblocked me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for something to
do...

As I said before, GET OVER ME. It is APPARENTLY not helping your image.

Take care,

MOSFET

[brianlanning]

Matt Ion wrote:
It shouldn't be - just trigger the proper wire(s) and she'll fire right up.
SHOULD work, anyway.

Good luck with that. Better get a wiring diagram.

Alternatively, you could get a pre-ATX AT style power supply. IIRC,
these just powered on with the switch on the power supply. You'd still
need to make it look like there's a motherboard there though.

Nope.... AT PSUs weren't typically that clever. The power switch was usually
attached at the front of the case via a big thick wire that actually interrupted
the incoming AC line, so you do have to be careful of that when using these things.

I actually hooked up a second power supply to my notebook computer's
docking station. This was a 486dx2-50 with a black and white lcd
display. The power supply wouldn't come up without a motherboard. I
had an old 386sx motherboard lying around and threw it in the case to
satidfy the power supply.

When I was on college, I had a job at a computer store assembling
machines to order, also upgrading existing machines. I saw a few with
this stick that reached through the case and switched the power supply.
Most just switched on the back though. None like you're describing.
I'm sure someone did it though.


Correct as well - looking at this 300W supply sitting right here, it lists 14A
capacity for the +3.3V output, 25A for +5V, 10A for +12V, 1A for +5VSB (standby
power??), and 0.5A for both -5V and -12V. I DON'T THINK that these supplies
typically "divide" a particular voltage individually to the separate wires - the
full 10A *should* be available to any device(s) on any of the +12V wires. Load
balancing is provided by Kirchoff's Law

The voltages better not be divided. :-)

Something like this?
http://www.rpelectronics.com/English...s/PSR-1215.asp
13.8VDC@15A regulated-output switching supply, $123.

Yeah, the good ones aren't cheap.

brian

[PanHandler]

"brianlanning" wrote in message
oups.com...
SNIP
Lastly, you could get a proper DC power supply to drive the thing. But
that would probably cost more than a boom box.

My current mini project involves running a car amp, *without* a HU, off a 50
Amp DC supply. I made a jumper from the supply's pos. lead to the 'tickler'
turn-on lug at the amp. When the PS comes on, so does the amp. I had to do
it this way because I'm providing audio straight from my laptop's line-out.
Works fine this way. Next step will be a permanent setup in a small cabinet,
with proper wiring and component mounting.
Joe Arnold

http://www.flickr.com/photos/joearnold/

[PanHandler]

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

My current mini project involves running a car amp, *without* a HU, off a
50 Amp DC supply. I made a jumper from the supply's pos. lead to the
'tickler' turn-on lug at the amp. When the PS comes on, so does the amp. I
had to do it this way because I'm providing audio straight from my
laptop's line-out. Works fine this way. Next step will be a permanent
setup in a small cabinet, with proper wiring and component mounting.

A question this time:
Are there any caveats/potential performance issues using a Y connector from
R or L line-out leads to a sub-in on the amp? I don't have a sub-out on my
laptop which is feeding the amp.
Joe Arnold

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...3499891&size=o

[Atomic Fusion]

Matt Ion Wrote:
Atomic Fusion wrote:

I rigged this up by myself when I was twelve years old with no help
at
all, so I don't mind leaving some bits for people to figure on their
own.

Well gee, I'm sorry to have spoiled your fun in trying to make the n00b
scramble.

There is no scrambling involved... I said hook it up to +12 volts off
the power supply... And the wiring diagram that *he* provided indicates
several locations where you can tap +12 volts... Not complicated...

Since you are clearly into fostering 'discussion', when adding to
information that someone else has given, it is appropriate to say "to
add to what Atomic Fusion said" or "to expand on this particular topic"
or something of that nature. It is ignorant and rude to go "since Atomic
Fusion was unclear" and then follow it up with "my philosophy is to try
to explain HOW and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect
slot A to tab B".

That is also considering that of all of the people posting on this
thread, I am apparently the only one who has actually successfully done
this. And yes, the full current output of the power supply will be
available through whatever lead he hooks up to, based on my
experience.

Adam


--
Atomic Fusion

[[email protected]]

Thanks for all the info, guys.

One last question. Is there any need to hook up the ignition as well as
the battery +12s? One is directly from the battery, and one goes
through the ignition switch for when the car's not running, but they
both supply 12v current, right? Do they share duty if both are
connected in a situation like this?

Would doing one or the other give me any control on switching it
on/off? There is a switch on the back of the ps, too, that I can use to
power on/off.

Just wondering, about to hook it up and see what happens, didn't even
have to cut any wires from the ps, the HU's wires can be crimped just
so that it fits in snugly to the molex connectors, I'll still tape it
up though.

Thanks!

[Matt Ion]

PanHandler wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..


My current mini project involves running a car amp, *without* a HU, off a
50 Amp DC supply. I made a jumper from the supply's pos. lead to the
'tickler' turn-on lug at the amp. When the PS comes on, so does the amp. I
had to do it this way because I'm providing audio straight from my
laptop's line-out. Works fine this way. Next step will be a permanent
setup in a small cabinet, with proper wiring and component mounting.


A question this time:
Are there any caveats/potential performance issues using a Y connector from
R or L line-out leads to a sub-in on the amp? I don't have a sub-out on my
laptop which is feeding the amp.
Joe Arnold

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...3499891&size=o

That should work fine... just remember that if the bass signal drifts to the
left at all, your sub output will be diminished. Not that that'll happen with
most music

[Matt Ion]

wrote:
Thanks for all the info, guys.

One last question. Is there any need to hook up the ignition as well as
the battery +12s? One is directly from the battery, and one goes
through the ignition switch for when the car's not running, but they
both supply 12v current, right? Do they share duty if both are
connected in a situation like this?

There are a variety of different configurations that manufacturers use for the
B+ and ACC leads... most common that I've seen is for the deck to draw its main
power from the ACC (red) lead, and the B+ (yellow) acts only as a "backup"
supply to maintain radio station, EQ, clock, and other settings when the car is
off. Most of these decks will run fine without the B+ connected.

There are exceptions, however... a few still draw main power from the ACC, but
won't operate without B+ connected as well. Others use B+ for their main power
and the ACC is only a turn-on signal.

Would doing one or the other give me any control on switching it
on/off? There is a switch on the back of the ps, too, that I can use to
power on/off.

If you want to retain any stored settings, I'd say just connect the red and
yellow to the PSU together, and power it on and off whichever way is more
convenient for you. If you want to store radio stations or custom EQ settings,
just leave the PSU on, and turn the deck on and off using its own power button.

Just wondering, about to hook it up and see what happens, didn't even
have to cut any wires from the ps, the HU's wires can be crimped just
so that it fits in snugly to the molex connectors, I'll still tape it
up though.

Pick up a cheap HDD-power Y-splitter and attach the deck power to that, then you
can just plug it into the PSU "properly"

[[email protected]]

There are a variety of different configurations that manufacturers use for the
B+ and ACC leads... most common that I've seen is for the deck to draw its main
power from the ACC (red) lead, and the B+ (yellow) acts only as a "backup"
supply to maintain radio station, EQ, clock, and other settings when the car is
off. Most of these decks will run fine without the B+ connected.

There are exceptions, however... a few still draw main power from the ACC, but
won't operate without B+ connected as well. Others use B+ for their main power
and the ACC is only a turn-on signal.

Would doing one or the other give me any control on switching it
on/off? There is a switch on the back of the ps, too, that I can use to
power on/off.

If you want to retain any stored settings, I'd say just connect the red and
yellow to the PSU together, and power it on and off whichever way is more
convenient for you. If you want to store radio stations or custom EQ settings,
just leave the PSU on, and turn the deck on and off using its own power button.


Pick up a cheap HDD-power Y-splitter and attach the deck power to that, then you
can just plug it into the PSU "properly"


Sweet, the above makes sense, about the main draw and reserve power,
and I'll look into the Y-splitter.

Thanks again.

[PanHandler]

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:y7mSg.55589$1T2.18984@pd7urf2no...

That should work fine... just remember that if the bass signal drifts to
the left at all, your sub output will be diminished. Not that that'll
happen with most music

Thanks Matt

[MOSFET]

.. It is ignorant and rude to go "since Atomic
Fusion was unclear" and then follow it up with "my philosophy is to try
to explain HOW and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect
slot A to tab B".

That is also considering that of all of the people posting on this
thread, I am apparently the only one who has actually successfully done
this.

Atomic Fusion, for what it's worth, I think Matt Ion is VERY rude. I have
him currently blocked because of his CONSTANT rudeness that you just got a
small taste of.

Don't lose any sleep over this guy. It's just the way he is. In his mind,
we are just big babies. Also, he has a tendency to thing that this animus
comes from the fact that we were corrected (and our fragile egos were hurt),
but (if you are like me) it isn't about that AT ALL.

IT'S ALL ABOUT HIS RUDENESS.

MOSFET

[Atomic Fusion]

MOSFET Wrote:
.. It is ignorant and rude to go "since Atomic
Fusion was unclear" and then follow it up with "my philosophy is to
try
to explain HOW and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect
slot A to tab B".

That is also considering that of all of the people posting on this
thread, I am apparently the only one who has actually successfully
done
this.

Atomic Fusion, for what it's worth, I think Matt Ion is VERY rude. I
have
him currently blocked because of his CONSTANT rudeness that you just
got a
small taste of.

Don't lose any sleep over this guy. It's just the way he is. In his
mind,
we are just big babies. Also, he has a tendency to thing that this
animus
comes from the fact that we were corrected (and our fragile egos were
hurt),
but (if you are like me) it isn't about that AT ALL.

IT'S ALL ABOUT HIS RUDENESS.

MOSFET

I gathered as much... No sweat here...

Adam


--
Atomic Fusion

[Matt Ion]

wrote:
There are a variety of different configurations that manufacturers use for the
B+ and ACC leads... most common that I've seen is for the deck to draw its main
power from the ACC (red) lead, and the B+ (yellow) acts only as a "backup"
supply to maintain radio station, EQ, clock, and other settings when the car is
off. Most of these decks will run fine without the B+ connected.

There are exceptions, however... a few still draw main power from the ACC, but
won't operate without B+ connected as well. Others use B+ for their main power
and the ACC is only a turn-on signal.


Would doing one or the other give me any control on switching it
on/off? There is a switch on the back of the ps, too, that I can use to
power on/off.

If you want to retain any stored settings, I'd say just connect the red and
yellow to the PSU together, and power it on and off whichever way is more
convenient for you. If you want to store radio stations or custom EQ settings,
just leave the PSU on, and turn the deck on and off using its own power button.



Pick up a cheap HDD-power Y-splitter and attach the deck power to that, then you
can just plug it into the PSU "properly"



Sweet, the above makes sense, about the main draw and reserve power,
and I'll look into the Y-splitter.

This is what you're looking for:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...A/splitter.jpg

If you do use one, be sure to either cap/tape off the red wire (so it doesn't
short on anything) or just remove that pin from the molex.

[Matt Ion]

Atomic Fusion wrote:
MOSFET Wrote:

.. It is ignorant and rude to go "since Atomic

Fusion was unclear" and then follow it up with "my philosophy is to

try

to explain HOW and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect
slot A to tab B".

That is also considering that of all of the people posting on this
thread, I am apparently the only one who has actually successfully

done

this.

Atomic Fusion, for what it's worth, I think Matt Ion is VERY rude. I
have
him currently blocked because of his CONSTANT rudeness that you just
got a
small taste of.

Don't lose any sleep over this guy. It's just the way he is. In his
mind,
we are just big babies. Also, he has a tendency to thing that this
animus
comes from the fact that we were corrected (and our fragile egos were
hurt),
but (if you are like me) it isn't about that AT ALL.

IT'S ALL ABOUT HIS RUDENESS.

MOSFET


I gathered as much... No sweat here...

Well, you babies are all entitled to you opinions.

I guess constantly slagging me isn't rude at all, eh?

[[email protected]]

Bwahahaha! Sucess!

When I first tried it, nothing. Nada. So I resigned to getting a mobo,
and possibly a switch as per the post that suggested one might be
needed.

But I remembered a thread on another forum I looked at a while back,
where someone actually made a diagram to follow, so I could look at it
again since talking to you guys. I couldn't find it, but I did find
this. -
http://www.carstereo.com/forum/showt...rch=in%20house

So now, at the bequest of these fine gentlemen, I now have what is
basically a paperclip stuck in the green mobo pinout, curving into a
black pinout. Fired right up.

What I am now wondering, is what would be the best way of insulating
said paperclip? Electrical tape? Using an insulated wire instead of a
metal object? Will it get hot? Hope not. Should I touch it and see what
happens?

Thanks.

[Matt Ion]

wrote:
Bwahahaha! Sucess!

When I first tried it, nothing. Nada. So I resigned to getting a mobo,
and possibly a switch as per the post that suggested one might be
needed.

But I remembered a thread on another forum I looked at a while back,
where someone actually made a diagram to follow, so I could look at it
again since talking to you guys. I couldn't find it, but I did find
this. -
http://www.carstereo.com/forum/showt...rch=in%20house

So now, at the bequest of these fine gentlemen, I now have what is
basically a paperclip stuck in the green mobo pinout, curving into a
black pinout. Fired right up.

What I am now wondering, is what would be the best way of insulating
said paperclip? Electrical tape? Using an insulated wire instead of a
metal object? Will it get hot? Hope not. Should I touch it and see what
happens?

Piece of insulated wire should be fine... and no, it won't get hot.