I need to rewire my system.

I had 4 speakers, 2 subs, and two amps installed at two different shops
and both places sucked.

It's a 1999 Nissan Altima SE
There is a aftermarket JVC head unit with 3 RCA outputs,
RF 200.4 amp for the 4 infiniti 6.5" speakers with 2 RCAs
RF 100.2 amp for the 2 10" RF Punch SVC subs with 1 RCA
Each amp is mounted under each front seat

I improved the sound a lot in the beginning by taking the grounds off
and actually sanding the paint off the metal so there was a good
connection.

I have always had a little engine noise that i want to get rid of. It
is noticeable at low speeds and low volume but not at high speed and
high volume.

It has been working and sounding good enough for a couple years but
yesterday i lost sound to my subs. I checked it out and the 30A in-line
fuse box melted itself. The fuse didnt blow and it actually still
worked if i pressed the case close. It was a cheezy power line though
and used the standard blade-type fuse.

The techs used 10 gauge wire in both cases. So there are 2 power lines
running to the amps from the + battery. I think i need to upgrade to a
single 2 or 4 gauge that goes to a distro box right next to the amps.

I've been doing some research and one thing i definately need to do is
ground both of the amps to the same spot. I can't believe the techs
didnt do that. Is it ok to just run both ground wires to the same spot
or should i use a distribution block?

Also, the head unit is grounded in the factory wiring. I heard that you
should ground it seperately. They say 18 inches at the most for the
ground, but some people also recommend grounding the head unit to the
same place as the amps. I dont know how you'd do that in only 18
inches, unless you maybe mounted a distribution box 18 inches away and
then ran the sub grounds to that?

My positive battery terminal is also pretty bad. I was going to get a
better aftermarket one so i can plug the amp lines into it instead of
using o-rings. Will the car's electronics terminal easily attach to the
aftermarket terminal?

Any input is appreciated.

It has been working and sounding good enough for a couple years but
yesterday i lost sound to my subs. I checked it out and the 30A in-line
fuse box melted itself. The fuse didnt blow and it actually still
worked if i pressed the case close. It was a cheezy power line though
and used the standard blade-type fuse.

What happens if you replace the fuse? Does that one blow too? There may be
bigger issues here than wiring.


The techs used 10 gauge wire in both cases. So there are 2 power lines
running to the amps from the + battery. I think i need to upgrade to a
single 2 or 4 gauge that goes to a distro box right next to the amps.

Probably not necessary.


I've been doing some research and one thing i definately need to do is
ground both of the amps to the same spot. I can't believe the techs
didnt do that. Is it ok to just run both ground wires to the same spot
or should i use a distribution block?

Either should be fine.


Also, the head unit is grounded in the factory wiring. I heard that you
should ground it seperately. They say 18 inches at the most for the
ground, but some people also recommend grounding the head unit to the
same place as the amps. I dont know how you'd do that in only 18
inches, unless you maybe mounted a distribution box 18 inches away and
then ran the sub grounds to that?

Nah, you don't have to ground it to the same place as the amps. Just make
sure the ground is good. If that means running a new ground, then so be it.
Sometimes the factory ground is crappy though, and could contribute to the
noise you're hearing.


My positive battery terminal is also pretty bad. I was going to get a
better aftermarket one so i can plug the amp lines into it instead of
using o-rings. Will the car's electronics terminal easily attach to the
aftermarket terminal?

Depends which terminal and the specifics of the car. Can't you make the
determination by eye?

How about the RCA cables? Where are they being run? Next to any power
wires?

MZ wrote:
It has been working and sounding good enough for a couple years but
yesterday i lost sound to my subs. I checked it out and the 30A
in-line
fuse box melted itself. The fuse didnt blow and it actually still
worked if i pressed the case close. It was a cheezy power line
though
and used the standard blade-type fuse.

What happens if you replace the fuse? Does that one blow too? There
may be
bigger issues here than wiring.


The fuse didnt blow. It looks like it just heated up to the point where
it melted the inline fuse box. The side of the fusebox that melted left
scorch marks on one of the fuse blades. The system will stil work if
you press the fuse box close real hard. The connection inside must be
loose from the melted case. At the time of failure, i was pushing the
system VERY hard.

My positive battery terminal is also pretty bad. I was going to get
a
better aftermarket one so i can plug the amp lines into it instead
of
using o-rings. Will the car's electronics terminal easily attach to
the
aftermarket terminal?

Depends which terminal and the specifics of the car. Can't you make
the
determination by eye?

Well i cant tell... Right now it's just a standard + terminal with a
hole in it. The OEM eletrical hookups are just a flat peice of metal
with a hole and that bolts to the + terminal. There are a few items
connected/bolted to that. When i look at the aftermarket + terminals,
it looks like they are pretty flush all the way around and dont provide
a place to bolt that on. They have multiple outputs, but do people cut
the OEM electrical wires to make them fit into one of those outputs, or
am i missing something?

I have a Punch 200x2 built in 95 and the operation manual gives the fuse
requrements for the 100x2 also. It calls for a 40 amp fuse. I'm not sure why
it didn't just blow the 30 though.

"Neufusion" wrote in message
oups.com...

MZ wrote:
It has been working and sounding good enough for a couple years but
yesterday i lost sound to my subs. I checked it out and the 30A
in-line
fuse box melted itself. The fuse didnt blow and it actually still
worked if i pressed the case close. It was a cheezy power line
though
and used the standard blade-type fuse.

What happens if you replace the fuse? Does that one blow too? There
may be
bigger issues here than wiring.


The fuse didnt blow. It looks like it just heated up to the point where
it melted the inline fuse box. The side of the fusebox that melted left
scorch marks on one of the fuse blades. The system will stil work if
you press the fuse box close real hard. The connection inside must be
loose from the melted case. At the time of failure, i was pushing the
system VERY hard.

My positive battery terminal is also pretty bad. I was going to get
a
better aftermarket one so i can plug the amp lines into it instead
of
using o-rings. Will the car's electronics terminal easily attach to
the
aftermarket terminal?

Depends which terminal and the specifics of the car. Can't you make
the
determination by eye?

Well i cant tell... Right now it's just a standard + terminal with a
hole in it. The OEM eletrical hookups are just a flat peice of metal
with a hole and that bolts to the + terminal. There are a few items
connected/bolted to that. When i look at the aftermarket + terminals,
it looks like they are pretty flush all the way around and dont provide
a place to bolt that on. They have multiple outputs, but do people cut
the OEM electrical wires to make them fit into one of those outputs, or
am i missing something?

The manual also recomends 8 gauge power wire and to have your fuse less than
18 inches from the battery.

"ZoSo" wrote in message
...
I have a Punch 200x2 built in 95 and the operation manual gives the fuse
requrements for the 100x2 also. It calls for a 40 amp fuse. I'm not sure
why it didn't just blow the 30 though.

"Neufusion" wrote in message
oups.com...

MZ wrote:
It has been working and sounding good enough for a couple years but
yesterday i lost sound to my subs. I checked it out and the 30A
in-line
fuse box melted itself. The fuse didnt blow and it actually still
worked if i pressed the case close. It was a cheezy power line
though
and used the standard blade-type fuse.

What happens if you replace the fuse? Does that one blow too? There
may be
bigger issues here than wiring.


The fuse didnt blow. It looks like it just heated up to the point where
it melted the inline fuse box. The side of the fusebox that melted left
scorch marks on one of the fuse blades. The system will stil work if
you press the fuse box close real hard. The connection inside must be
loose from the melted case. At the time of failure, i was pushing the
system VERY hard.

My positive battery terminal is also pretty bad. I was going to get
a
better aftermarket one so i can plug the amp lines into it instead
of
using o-rings. Will the car's electronics terminal easily attach to
the
aftermarket terminal?

Depends which terminal and the specifics of the car. Can't you make
the
determination by eye?

Well i cant tell... Right now it's just a standard + terminal with a
hole in it. The OEM eletrical hookups are just a flat peice of metal
with a hole and that bolts to the + terminal. There are a few items
connected/bolted to that. When i look at the aftermarket + terminals,
it looks like they are pretty flush all the way around and dont provide
a place to bolt that on. They have multiple outputs, but do people cut
the OEM electrical wires to make them fit into one of those outputs, or
am i missing something?