Hey home brewers,
I'm looking for some nice ways to point to point wire my preamp.
I've built lots of Heathkits , Knightkits , Eicokits etc. back in the
fifties and sixties. The typical method of point to point wiring then
was to use mounting strips that had between two and six terminals
that were made of stamped out metal and phenolic.
A couple of the nicer methods I've seen was in a Mac MC60 and HK
Citation II. They used boards with terminal pins which I liked a lot.

Ok I'm looking for some nice modern ways to mount my circuitry.
Can Anyone give some sources of terminals and user friendly parts for
the home brewer?

Dennis Selwa

Dennis Selwa wrote:

snip
Ok I'm looking for some nice modern ways to mount my circuitry.
Can Anyone give some sources of terminals and user friendly parts for
the home brewer?

Dennis Selwa

Dennis,

Newark Electronics has nice fiberglass or phenolic turret boards
available, They come in a strip scored so you can snap them apart in
increments of 5 pairs of terminals. Also, Antique Electronic Supply has
nice turret boards drilled to a accept chassis mount tube sockets. Both
octal and 9 pin miniature versions available.

One thing though, like seemingly everything associated with tubes, these
boards aren't exactly cheap.

Good luck.

Mike L.

If you want to make up turret boards cheaply,, find your local plastics
company,, and ask them for some 1/8" G-10, or FR-4 or Linen board.. They
always have scraps they will sell you.

Mouser has the turrets for about $18.00 per hundred. They are a Keystone
item. You will need a drill press or other suitable way to press/crimp the
turrets into the board.

These are really easy and fast way to make a board,, eyelets are nice too!!
Fender Amp style.

The tool can be made up from a couple of 1/4x20 bolts, or you can get it
from Doug Hoffmans site.

If you need more info pls feel free to contact me.

Vin Collins





"Dennis Selwa" wrote in message
om...
Hey home brewers,
I'm looking for some nice ways to point to point wire my preamp.
I've built lots of Heathkits , Knightkits , Eicokits etc. back in the
fifties and sixties. The typical method of point to point wiring then
was to use mounting strips that had between two and six terminals
that were made of stamped out metal and phenolic.
A couple of the nicer methods I've seen was in a Mac MC60 and HK
Citation II. They used boards with terminal pins which I liked a lot.

Ok I'm looking for some nice modern ways to mount my circuitry.
Can Anyone give some sources of terminals and user friendly parts for
the home brewer?

Dennis Selwa

Dennis Selwa wrote:
Hey home brewers,
I'm looking for some nice ways to point to point wire my preamp.
I've built lots of Heathkits , Knightkits , Eicokits etc. back in the
fifties and sixties. The typical method of point to point wiring then
was to use mounting strips that had between two and six terminals
that were made of stamped out metal and phenolic.
A couple of the nicer methods I've seen was in a Mac MC60 and HK
Citation II. They used boards with terminal pins which I liked a lot.

Ok I'm looking for some nice modern ways to mount my circuitry.
Can Anyone give some sources of terminals and user friendly parts for
the home brewer?

Dennis Selwa

I usually use the tradtional terminal strips, not because they're
traditional but because they're easy to use, and relatively inexpensive
and readily available.

Cheers,
Fred
--
+--------------------------------------------+
| Music: http://www3.telus.net/dogstarmusic/ |
| Projects, Vacuum Tubes & other stuff: |
| http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk |
+--------------------------------------------+

Henry 007 wrote:

"Dennis Selwa" wrote in message
om...
Hey home brewers,
I'm looking for some nice ways to point to point wire my preamp.
I've built lots of Heathkits , Knightkits , Eicokits etc. back in the
fifties and sixties. The typical method of point to point wiring then
was to use mounting strips that had between two and six terminals
that were made of stamped out metal and phenolic.
A couple of the nicer methods I've seen was in a Mac MC60 and HK
Citation II. They used boards with terminal pins which I liked a lot.

Ok I'm looking for some nice modern ways to mount my circuitry.
Can Anyone give some sources of terminals and user friendly parts for
the home brewer?

Dennis Selwa

One thing I have learned is to use solid core cabling- much easier to bend
into shape. Whether you use silver is up to you. Tagboards are good, but
require a lot of wiring. I like a mix- some components soldered directly to
valve sockets, some on tagboards.

~h~

I am still using tagboards, and point to point, and I see no reason to use
printed boards for one off amps.
It pays to think carefully about where things are going to be laid out,
and be prepared to do some things 2 or 3 times in the interests of
neatness.
Some times I use flat boards of fibreglass, and bore 1.5mm holes to a grid
pattern
and hook the wires/component leads through, so all the R&C and the
solid wire tracks are on the same side of the board, which is bolted
12 mm above the bottom of the chassis.
This way circuits for phono stages can be wired with very short leads, less
than 10mm if possible, and it all helps to stop noise and oscillations.
I often use fine ex telephone wiring looms of all different colour coding
for preamps, but I usually select something with thicker insulation for B+
lines,
and I try to stick to a colour code for main wiring,
balck = 0V, red = B+, blue = anode, green = grid, orange = screen,
yellow = cathodes, grey = bias, purple = feedback,
pink = lower level B+, white = right channel,
yellow/white = left channel, twisted brown and blue for mains,
and heaters.
I ain't allways strict, and I vary sometimes. But in 5 years when I wanna do a
mod,
or fix something, I ned to remember WTF I did 5 years before.

for the input stages to say an integrated amp, I'll run a solid 1.6 mm solid
copper
buss wire 25mm above the tube socket underside, with wire standoffs
to hold it in place soldered to the metal tube in the centre of most 9 pin
tube sockets. This buss rail is then joined to 0V at only one point
very closs to the input socket 0V.
The chassis is also connected near this point via a 22 ohm R,
and a 0.05 ceramic cap, to stop earthy loop LF voltages
and RF from interfering in the signal path.

The chassis IS NOT used to ground any components.
You'll find many resistors can be grounded with then standing
vertically in the chassis space, from socket to 0V buss,
and thus much space is saved, and when finished
a typical circuit shouldn't look like a rat's nest, or have
leads arching over all over, allowing bending to occur,
but instead, components are stretched fairly straight between
connecting points, so they cannot be swayed to touch other components.
Careful dressing of leads is nice, and looping wiring carefully to allow access
in future with
a soldering iron, and wires where stray capacitance effects is important should
not
be laced together, but thuse where it isn't important, should be laced,
or tied with cable ties.
Large caps should be glued to the chassis with silicone
sealant. You don't want vibration to fatigue the wiring.
And hot parts, such as wire wound R should be located in a breeze,
and not up against caps.
I could go on, and on, but decent tube craft was employed in many old
oscilliscopes,
scientific gear, and such levels of craft are never found in old radios, and
consumer grade
electronics.
If you want to see good tube wiring, look into old good gear.

Printed circuit boards like used in ARC and CJ amps, with heavy tracks and
mil spec boards don't sound any better than the well done DIY wire up.
It is pointless trying to copy this type of construction, and any mods, along
with repairs
can be a nightmare.

Patrick Turner.

Hi RATs!

My cool summer amp is HL2/ML4. All connections to tube are just wire wrapped
around pins of tubes.

In response to recent discussion I took out the grid stoppers:

turn off B+

wait few minutes (all PS caps have 470K bleeders)

pull resistor lead off pin

wrap other end around pin

added another current meter to B+, after common 4 x 4K 10W voltage dropping
array, 980 ohm net

turn on B+

sounds great

Happy Ears!
Al


Alan J. Marcy
Phoenix, AZ

PWC/mystic/Earhead

Mikkel C. Simonsen wrote:
Fred Nachbaur wrote:

I usually use the tradtional terminal strips, not because they're
traditional but because they're easy to use, and relatively inexpensive
and readily available.

And small enough for your "japanese" wiring style ;-)

Oh, I'm giving that up. The project to which you're probably referring
to is as far as I'll ever carry that technique -- mainly because the
result is practically unservicable.

Does look cool though. I think this one's destined to be mostly a
"visual" amplifier. ;-)

PS - here's a pic in case anyone's wondering what I'm on about...

http://dogstar.dantimax.dk/tubestuf/...s/midgundr.jpg


What is that? That's even worse than a Philips amp ;-)

hehe... It's an "experimental" line-operated SRPP-type guitar amp. I'll
get around to documenting it one of these days...

Have you ever seen the layout drawings in Philips service manuals BTW?

No, I don't think so. Not sure if I'd want to!

Cheers,
Fred
--
+--------------------------------------------+
| Music: http://www3.telus.net/dogstarmusic/ |
| Projects, Vacuum Tubes & other stuff: |
| http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk |
+--------------------------------------------+

Fred Nachbaur wrote:


Cheers,
Fred

PS - here's a pic in case anyone's wondering what I'm on about...

http://dogstar.dantimax.dk/tubestuf/...s/midgundr.jpg

That aint bad. Looks like all nodes are tied to terminal strips or
tube socket pins. Take a look at:
http://home.netcom.com/~wa2ise/radios/8x541comp.jpg

Fred Nachbaur wrote:

: Mikkel C. Simonsen wrote:
[..]
: Have you ever seen the layout drawings in Philips service manuals BTW?
:
: No, I don't think so. Not sure if I'd want to!

Here's one - doesn't look as though it'd be *quite* as crowded as yours!
http://wind.prohosting.com/sfynx/hom...ker/hf308.html
The construction /wiring layout jpgs follow on from Diagram 2, which is
mainly the exploded chassis layout. It's nice that they documented them.

[Page link kindly sent to me by Byron in relation to the EL86 SEPP thread]

Ross

Hello,
I'm not really sure what route to take. I need a good zero feedback
phono stage and ZFB line stage. Thought of building something like the
cary PH-1(2-6SL7) and AE-3(2-6SN7)using transistor current sourced
6SN7,6SL7's and using the AES separate regulated supply. Maybe hammond
aluminum chassis. Or another option would be to take my Sargent
Rayment preamp (using 2-7199,4-12AX7) and gut out all the components
not needed and wire the copys of the AES PH-1 and AE-3 (with 12AU7's
and 12AX7's instead) using the separate isolated AES regulated supply.
I dont know if the Sargent Rayment has collector value, I also have
the matching power amp with EL34's, all in really nice shape.
Wish I had some photos of homebrew preamps to use as a guide for parts
placement. I'll probably survive though doing it myself.

Dennis Selwa