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#1
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I want to build my own old-style, constant-impedance stepped ladder
mixer controls. (Please, let's not get into a debate about WHY). It seems the only rotary switches available at less than "audiophile" prices are 24 positions maximum. So, one could make a control with 23 2dB steps and "off." I know that 2dB/step controls were once fairly common, and my question is to those who have used mixers thus equipped. Did you find that 2dB steps gave adequate control of your levels, or did you find yourself pining for the costlier 1.5dB/step or 0.5dB/step controls? Thanks in advance for all replies. --Dave |
#2
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In article ,
NewYorkDave wrote: I want to build my own old-style, constant-impedance stepped ladder mixer controls. (Please, let's not get into a debate about WHY). It seems the only rotary switches available at less than "audiophile" prices are 24 positions maximum. So, one could make a control with 23 2dB steps and "off." I know that 2dB/step controls were once fairly common, and my question is to those who have used mixers thus equipped. Did you find that 2dB steps gave adequate control of your levels, or did you find yourself pining for the costlier 1.5dB/step or 0.5dB/step controls? Thanks in advance for all replies. --Dave I use 2dB/step controls all the time, and they are fairly convenient but they can be a pain for mixing. For main mix controls, I would prefer a finer step, but I could live with 2 dB/step and I did for years. For trim controls and for buss level controls, you can take something MUCH coarser. The 12-step C&K pots from Digi-Key are even sufficient. I like the 12-step pots for sweep frequency controls on the console EQ also. Be aware, though, that with a modern system you can build a single-ended mix buss and use stepped ladder potentiometers (half the resistors that you have in a full L-pad) and get similar noise performance. Feels the same way, works the same way, costs a bit less. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#3
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NewYorkDave wrote:
I want to build my own old-style, constant-impedance stepped ladder mixer controls. (Please, let's not get into a debate about WHY). It seems the only rotary switches available at less than "audiophile" prices are 24 positions maximum. So, one could make a control with 23 2dB steps and "off." I know that 2dB/step controls were once fairly common, and my question is to those who have used mixers thus equipped. Did you find that 2dB steps gave adequate control of your levels, or did you find yourself pining for the costlier 1.5dB/step or 0.5dB/step controls? Thanks in advance for all replies. --Dave It's actually one of life's little jokes I think... if you are using a stepped attenuator, you are going to find ocassions when you need to hit between the steps (actually, not true for broadcasting, but everything else!) Never fails. (I've never had the luxury of using 0.5dB per step, so maybe there really is a "good-enough".) The RNP, if I remember, has 6dB per step, which on the surface seems a bit scaryG... And then you get to what's practical. I really like stepped attenuators for a lot of reasons, repeatability, precision, ability to match channels, etc. So I live with the trade-off of reduced resolution. And I have certainly had situations, especially mixing, where extra resolution would have been nice, but I've always been able to work around it. Bill |
#4
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#5
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"NewYorkDave" wrote in message
om I want to build my own old-style, constant-impedance stepped ladder mixer controls. (Please, let's not get into a debate about WHY). It seems the only rotary switches available at less than "audiophile" prices are 24 positions maximum. So, one could make a control with 23 2dB steps and "off." I know that 2dB/step controls were once fairly common, and my question is to those who have used mixers thus equipped. Did you find that 2dB steps gave adequate control of your levels, or did you find yourself pining for the costlier 1.5dB/step or 0.5dB/step controls? Thanks in advance for all replies. --Dave I do a lot of mixing in Cool Edit, where the fader is marked off in 0.1th dB steps. IME the range from "way too much" to "way too little" when mixing multiple voices that are supposed to blend is about 3 dB. 0.5 dB steps are about the smallest steps that can be heard. Seems like steps someplace between 0.5 and 1.0 dB are about as coarse as I could stand to work with. |
#6
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#7
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#8
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Thanks for the great replies. Please keep 'em coming.
By the way, although I didn't let on in the original posting, I am aware that the old mixer controls usually had a fairly steep taper to infinite attenuation on the last few steps. In the '61 Langevin catalog (now available as a decent-quality reprint and great reading, by the way) they offer two basic ranges of attenuation steps in their rotary mixer controls. The higher-priced option is 30 1.5dB steps, recommended for critical use, and the cheaper is 20 2dB steps recommended for economical use in portable equipment. The catalog text seems to imply the 2dB steps are OK for many uses, but 1.5dB is recommended for smoothest control. With a 24-position switch, you'd have 23 positions plus "off", three more positions than Langevin's lower-priced rotary mixer. This could buy you a little more resolution down at the low end before the tapered steps. I haven't confirmed this directly with Elma, but a friend tells me that they sell 24-pos., 1-pole MBB rotaries for less than $20 each. This would work fine for an unbalanced ladder with a minimum loss of 6dB, which seemed to be the most common type mixer control back in the day. Buying the "real deal" just isn't a viable option for the 12-channel DIY mixer I have in mind. New Shallcos or old stock Davens are just too damn expensive to use in that sort of quantity. --Dave |
#9
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By the way, here's how Goldpoint uses 24 steps:
http://www.goldpt.com/info.html It's a table about halfway down the page, under the heading "How Many Decibels Are Used Per Step (Taper)?" As you would expect, it's 2dB steps for most of the range with the last 7 steps tapered to infinity. These attenuation values should be useful, even though I want to build a constant-Z ladder, not the potentiometer-type "audiophile" control. |
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