[Mike Rivers]

Erik Korte wrote:

I guess I'll hit Mouser. I just didn't see the value of the caps in
the video, and there appears to be more parts in the shot than what is
used.

That other video is a little clearer, but I'd suggest that before you
look at the
Mouser catalog, open up your recorder and get an idea of how much space
you'll have to work in. The parts list is about 30 seconds into the
video and
the component values are also on the schematic. He doesn't specify the
wattage of the resistors, but he does specify the tolerance (1%) and you
want
the smallest ones you can find. There's no power there so you don't need to
worry about wattage. He doesn't have the capacitor on that list near the
beginning
of the video, but on the schematic, it's 3.3 uF tantalum, 25V. The
switches are
DPDT (double pole double throw). The connectors are single hole mounting
RCA jacks.

The modification is simple. What he's doing is cutting the leads to the
microphones,
putting the switch in line with the input (where the mic went), then
connecting the
mic to one side of the switch and an attenuator followed by a capacitor
to the other
side of the switch - so the switch selects between the mic going
directly into the
amplifier and the new line input jack attenuated by 1/10 going into the
amplifier.

The trick is to stuff all the parts back in and still be able to close
the case.
Good luck.

--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio." - John Watkinson

[Erik Korte]

Hi Mike.

I really appreciate you taking the time for this. Thanks!
Do you see any way to improve this or should I give it a whirl?

Laugh all you want but that stupid Zoom H2 (mics and line in) sound
pretty good.
I've owned the Edirol version as well as "real" recorders (Otari MX-70/
Radar II and now an Audiofire 12).... but for quick recordings, the
stupid Zoom sounds way better than it has any right to.

Thanks a lot!
Erik

[Mike Rivers]

Erik Korte wrote:

I really appreciate you taking the time for this. Thanks!
Do you see any way to improve this or should I give it a whirl?

I don't see any reason to change anything, but you might want to
build it so that you can change out the 10K resistor after you fire
it up and feed it from your mixer. I don't know the signal path for the
official line input jack on the H2, but I know that it's easy to clip the
analog stage when feeding it from a mixer. I put 10 dB pads in line
just to be safe. So you might want to reduce the sensitivity of your
new line inputs (choose a lower value resistor). While you're buying
resistors, you might also get about a 5k and maybe 3k.

Laugh all you want but that stupid Zoom H2 (mics and line in) sound
pretty good.

Hey, I'm not laughing. I have one myself and I'm happy with how it sounds.
I just wouldn't bother to bugger it up like that because then it
wouldn't be
as rugged or compact. If I'm going to make a multitrack recording from
a mixer, I have a Mackie Firewire card and I'll take my laptop computer. I
don't like it, but it's what I have.




--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio." - John Watkinson