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#1
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Too many of my (guitar) rack devices use simple 78/79 regulators.
I've seen some with a transistor supposed to shunt noise to ground, but seems more like a phase inverter, depending on accurate resistors to match the emitter resistance. Seemed to also depend on how many, and size of, capacitors dropped around the board. Another one used two high speed swithing transistors. Would be nice merely replacing the 78/79 and lifting the output leg to hook in a filter. Anyone have links to simple add-on filters, so I don't have to invent a commen wheel? -- Kind regards, Mogens V. |
#2
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#3
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Mogens V. wrote:
Too many of my (guitar) rack devices use simple 78/79 regulators. What do you imagine is wrong with a 78/79xx regulator ? Would be nice merely replacing the 78/79 and lifting the output leg to hook in a filter. If you feel it's necessary it's easy. Anyone have links to simple add-on filters, so I don't have to invent a commen wheel? Yeah sure, a 10u electolytixc shunted by a 100n ceraminc capacitor. It should be already there. geoff |
#4
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In article ,
"Mogens V." wrote: Too many of my (guitar) rack devices use simple 78/79 regulators. I've seen some with a transistor supposed to shunt noise to ground, but seems more like a phase inverter, depending on accurate resistors to match the emitter resistance. Seemed to also depend on how many, and size of, capacitors dropped around the board. Another one used two high speed swithing transistors. Would be nice merely replacing the 78/79 and lifting the output leg to hook in a filter. Anyone have links to simple add-on filters, so I don't have to invent a commen wheel? Those are actually pretty good regulators, and the problem may be somewhere else. I'd suggest you go back and check out the way the power circuitry is wired. It's very common for that to get done wrong, and cause all sorts of hum problems. No current flows from the transformer during most of the power cycle. Only when the voltage there is greater than the voltage in the filter caps will any current flow at all, and when it does flow, the capacitor looks like a short circuit and the current can be very high. The voltage drops from those high currents, if not isolated, can couple directly into the output of the regulator -- and even a perfect regulator would not help because the hum has cleverly bypassed it entirely. Specifically, the resistance of even a short wire can be sufficient to cause problems. Also, there can be large magnetic fields due to the large currents, and those must be isolated too. The wiring should be like this (in order): From the transformer to the diodes; from the diodes to the terminals of the filter capacitor; from the capacitor terminals to the input and common of the regulator. Do not connect the regulator common to any other place than the appropriate terminal of the capacitor -- specifically not to any other place on the common lead, say nearer the diodes or transformer. To minimize the magnetic field problem, use twisted pair -- from the transformer to the diodes, and from there to the terminals of the capacitor. Take the power from the output and common of the regulator to the circuitry. Make no ground connections anywhere else. The common pin of the regulator should be the ONLY place the input common and output common are connected. It should be a "zero-length" lead. Isaac |
#5
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isw wrote:
In article , "Mogens V." wrote: Too many of my (guitar) rack devices use simple 78/79 regulators. I've seen some with a transistor supposed to shunt noise to ground, but seems more like a phase inverter, depending on accurate resistors to match the emitter resistance. Seemed to also depend on how many, and size of, capacitors dropped around the board. Another one used two high speed swithing transistors. Would be nice merely replacing the 78/79 and lifting the output leg to hook in a filter. Anyone have links to simple add-on filters, so I don't have to invent a commen wheel? Those are actually pretty good regulators, and the problem may be somewhere else. I'd suggest you go back and check out the way the power circuitry is wired. It's very common for that to get done wrong, and cause all sorts of hum problems. No current flows from the transformer during most of the power cycle. Only when the voltage there is greater than the voltage in the filter caps will any current flow at all, and when it does flow, the capacitor looks like a short circuit and the current can be very high. The voltage drops from those high currents, if not isolated, can couple directly into the output of the regulator -- and even a perfect regulator would not help because the hum has cleverly bypassed it entirely. Specifically, the resistance of even a short wire can be sufficient to cause problems. Also, there can be large magnetic fields due to the large currents, and those must be isolated too. The wiring should be like this (in order): From the transformer to the diodes; from the diodes to the terminals of the filter capacitor; from the capacitor terminals to the input and common of the regulator. Do not connect the regulator common to any other place than the appropriate terminal of the capacitor -- specifically not to any other place on the common lead, say nearer the diodes or transformer. To minimize the magnetic field problem, use twisted pair -- from the transformer to the diodes, and from there to the terminals of the capacitor. Take the power from the output and common of the regulator to the circuitry. Make no ground connections anywhere else. The common pin of the regulator should be the ONLY place the input common and output common are connected. It should be a "zero-length" lead. Isaac Of cause you and G & G are right. I'm probably overreacting a Bit. Might've been a good ide to say a bit more about it. I'm about repairing an LXP-1 with the two 78/7912's burned. This and other devices are used mainly for guitars. No problem with the regulators for this use, but as this is also part of my homestudio, I thought the 80dB rejection in the 78/79's might be a limitation. In most of my gear, the regulators are fairly well laid out, like in your common practice comments above. I'm about to start a general overhaul of things to improve S/N and tone, replacing old technology opamps, capacitors et al.. where appropriate, and thought I might as well take a look at the power supplies as well. -- Kind regards, Mogens V. |
#6
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Mogens V. wrote:
Of cause you and G & G are right. I'm probably overreacting a Bit. Might've been a good ide to say a bit more about it. I'm about repairing an LXP-1 with the two 78/7912's burned. This and other devices are used mainly for guitars. No problem with the regulators for this use, but as this is also part of my homestudio, I thought the 80dB rejection in the 78/79's might be a limitation. It's not assuming there is also a smoothing capacitor between the bridge rectifier and the 3T reg ?!!! One thing worth checking is that there is a ceramic or tant cap on the 3T output to reduce chance of oscillation. In most of my gear, the regulators are fairly well laid out, like in your common practice comments above. I'm about to start a general overhaul of things to improve S/N and tone, replacing old technology opamps, capacitors et al.. where appropriate, and thought I might as well take a look at the power supplies as well. If you axctually really have a problem with s/n and tone, loook at getting good gear in the first place ! But I suspect you are possibly obsessing unnecessarily, or there is another problem (gain structure ?) in the way you've got things hooked up. geoff |
#7
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Geoff wrote:
Mogens V. wrote: Of cause you and G & G are right. I'm probably overreacting a Bit. Might've been a good ide to say a bit more about it. I'm about repairing an LXP-1 with the two 78/7912's burned. This and other devices are used mainly for guitars. No problem with the regulators for this use, but as this is also part of my homestudio, I thought the 80dB rejection in the 78/79's might be a limitation. It's not assuming there is also a smoothing capacitor between the bridge rectifier and the 3T reg ?!!! One thing worth checking is that there is a ceramic or tant cap on the 3T output to reduce chance of oscillation. Oh yes, in the LXP-1 case, there's a 1000µ cap there and ceramics too. Somewhat the same with other devices. In most of my gear, the regulators are fairly well laid out, like in your common practice comments above. I'm about to start a general overhaul of things to improve S/N and tone, replacing old technology opamps, capacitors et al.. where appropriate, and thought I might as well take a look at the power supplies as well. If you axctually really have a problem with s/n and tone, loook at getting good gear in the first place ! But I suspect you are possibly obsessing unnecessarily, or there is another problem (gain structure ?) in the way you've got things hooked up. Obsessiveness likelyhood ![]() of repairs. Well also, I can't afford (new) outboard gear hooked up through lightpipe or spdif, so I shop used gear that I run through analog S/R loops. For this reason, I'm just trying to have as good a signal chain as possible. -- Kind regards, Mogens V. |
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