[nnote]

The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a
year of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next
night. So I tried another fuse but now, even with the radio off, they
are blowing the second I put them in the crossover. The crossover is
powered 12v from some auxillary wires that run to my amp. My amp is
cabled to the battery, and the crossover power comes from where those
cables are ran to my amp. The only odd thing I noticed was that the
inline fuse to my amp had a crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but
have yet not had a chance to get another fuse, but yes the amp had power.
--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE

[Christopher Ott]

"nnote" wrote in message
...
The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a year
of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next night. So
I tried another fuse but now, even with the radio off, they are blowing
the second I put them in the crossover. The crossover is powered 12v from
some auxillary wires that run to my amp. My amp is cabled to the battery,
and the crossover power comes from where those cables are ran to my amp.
The only odd thing I noticed was that the inline fuse to my amp had a
crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but have yet not had a chance to
get another fuse, but yes the amp had power.
--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE


Not sure if there's a question in there, but I'll put in my thoughts anyway.
Assuming that nothing changed in the wiring (ie: there's no possibility that
the batt and gnd are swapped) your fuse symptoms are pointing to an internal
failure within the crossover. Most likely a shorting diode or transistor in
the power supply. The fact it came on slowly and then got worse quickly also
points to damaged silicon.

I suspect the cause of the failure could be that the crossover is being
underpowered. I doubt the aux out of the amp is up to providing the current
needed to power your crossover directly. This power starvation (loading down
the aux line) Makes the switching power supply inside the crossover work
harder. This could also damage the aux output in the amp. It's best to use
it to switch a relay only.

The crack in the glass portion of your fuse shouldn't be a problem. Low
voltage DC fuses aren't generally vacuum sealed and will operate the same
regardless of the presence of the glass. This is not always the case with AC
fuses.

Chris

[nnote]

Thanks for the reply.
It's not really an auxillary out at the amp, just that the cable running
to power the amp was also split to the crossover. Another thing is that
it's all in my trunk, and it's been 115 all week... In phoenix... I was
thinking it could be heat related damage.
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
"nnote" wrote in message
...
The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a year
of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next night. So
I tried another fuse but now, even with the radio off, they are blowing
the second I put them in the crossover. The crossover is powered 12v from
some auxillary wires that run to my amp. My amp is cabled to the battery,
and the crossover power comes from where those cables are ran to my amp.
The only odd thing I noticed was that the inline fuse to my amp had a
crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but have yet not had a chance to
get another fuse, but yes the amp had power.
--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE


Not sure if there's a question in there, but I'll put in my thoughts anyway.
Assuming that nothing changed in the wiring (ie: there's no possibility that
the batt and gnd are swapped) your fuse symptoms are pointing to an internal
failure within the crossover. Most likely a shorting diode or transistor in
the power supply. The fact it came on slowly and then got worse quickly also
points to damaged silicon.

I suspect the cause of the failure could be that the crossover is being
underpowered. I doubt the aux out of the amp is up to providing the current
needed to power your crossover directly. This power starvation (loading down
the aux line) Makes the switching power supply inside the crossover work
harder. This could also damage the aux output in the amp. It's best to use
it to switch a relay only.

The crack in the glass portion of your fuse shouldn't be a problem. Low
voltage DC fuses aren't generally vacuum sealed and will operate the same
regardless of the presence of the glass. This is not always the case with AC
fuses.

Chris



--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE

[Christopher Ott]

The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is good
from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in a car are
industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive rated, -40c to
+125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the heat. It was bad, but
shouldn't cause a failure like this all by itself. I make industrial
controllers for heavy equipment, and they have to handle similar conditions
when the control box is in direct sunlight. I've never seen a failure from
ambient temperature alone.

Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the only
connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load
connected, it's time for the repair shop...

Chris


"nnote" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the reply.
It's not really an auxillary out at the amp, just that the cable running
to power the amp was also split to the crossover. Another thing is that
it's all in my trunk, and it's been 115 all week... In phoenix... I was
thinking it could be heat related damage.
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
"nnote" wrote in message
...
The other day my crossover blew it's 2amp fuse. First time in over a
year of owning my system. I put a new fuse in, but it blew the next
night. So I tried another fuse but now, even with the radio off, they
are blowing the second I put them in the crossover. The crossover is
powered 12v from some auxillary wires that run to my amp. My amp is
cabled to the battery, and the crossover power comes from where those
cables are ran to my amp. The only odd thing I noticed was that the
inline fuse to my amp had a crack in it's glass, So I've removed it, but
have yet not had a chance to get another fuse, but yes the amp had
power.
--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE


Not sure if there's a question in there, but I'll put in my thoughts
anyway. Assuming that nothing changed in the wiring (ie: there's no
possibility that the batt and gnd are swapped) your fuse symptoms are
pointing to an internal failure within the crossover. Most likely a
shorting diode or transistor in the power supply. The fact it came on
slowly and then got worse quickly also points to damaged silicon.

I suspect the cause of the failure could be that the crossover is being
underpowered. I doubt the aux out of the amp is up to providing the
current needed to power your crossover directly. This power starvation
(loading down the aux line) Makes the switching power supply inside the
crossover work harder. This could also damage the aux output in the amp.
It's best to use it to switch a relay only.

The crack in the glass portion of your fuse shouldn't be a problem. Low
voltage DC fuses aren't generally vacuum sealed and will operate the same
regardless of the presence of the glass. This is not always the case with
AC fuses.

Chris

--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE

[nnote]

That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend the
$$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks!
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is good
from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in a car are
industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive rated, -40c to
+125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the heat. It was bad, but
shouldn't cause a failure like this all by itself. I make industrial
controllers for heavy equipment, and they have to handle similar conditions
when the control box is in direct sunlight. I've never seen a failure from
ambient temperature alone.

Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the only
connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load
connected, it's time for the repair shop...

[nnote]

Yup, disconnected all and it's still blows the fuse. I guess it's cooked
. Time to hit ebay...
Nick


nnote wrote:
That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend the
$$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks!
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is
good from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in
a car are industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive
rated, -40c to +125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the
heat. It was bad, but shouldn't cause a failure like this all by
itself. I make industrial controllers for heavy equipment, and they
have to handle similar conditions when the control box is in direct
sunlight. I've never seen a failure from ambient temperature alone.

Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the
only connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with
no load connected, it's time for the repair shop...

--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE

[nnote]

Well, picked up a new crossover. Different brand but since everything
was already wired, the swap was easy, only concern is that the remote
bass control would be compatible, and it is. Only it works in reverse!
Not quite happy with the sound of the bass output, but just gonna have
to spend some time tunning it i guess.
Nick


nnote wrote:
Yup, disconnected all and it's still blows the fuse. I guess it's cooked
. Time to hit ebay...
Nick


nnote wrote:
That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend
the $$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks!
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is
good from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use
in a car are industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive
rated, -40c to +125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the
heat. It was bad, but shouldn't cause a failure like this all by
itself. I make industrial controllers for heavy equipment, and they
have to handle similar conditions when the control box is in direct
sunlight. I've never seen a failure from ambient temperature alone.

Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the
only connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with
no load connected, it's time for the repair shop...


--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE

[Christopher Ott]

Well, that was easy!

Chris


"nnote" wrote in message
...
Well, picked up a new crossover. Different brand but since everything was
already wired, the swap was easy, only concern is that the remote bass
control would be compatible, and it is. Only it works in reverse!
Not quite happy with the sound of the bass output, but just gonna have to
spend some time tunning it i guess.
Nick


nnote wrote:
Yup, disconnected all and it's still blows the fuse. I guess it's cooked
. Time to hit ebay...
Nick


nnote wrote:
That's a good idea, I'd like to find any reason to not have to spend the
$$$ (145) to replace it. Thanks!
Nick


Christopher Ott wrote:
The temp shouldn't cause it to blow fuses. Consumer rated silicon is
good from -20c to +70c (158F) and most electronics intended for use in
a car are industrial temp rated, -40c to +85c (185F) or automotive
rated, -40c to +125c (257F). I grew up in Chandler, and remember the
heat. It was bad, but shouldn't cause a failure like this all by
itself. I make industrial controllers for heavy equipment, and they
have to handle similar conditions when the control box is in direct
sunlight. I've never seen a failure from ambient temperature alone.

Have you tried unplugging all the outputs on the crossover, so the only
connections are the +batt and gnd? If it still blows fuses with no load
connected, it's time for the repair shop...


--
Nick
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-B...?user_id=NNOTE