[Perry Justus]

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to pro audio, and nothing I own or
will probably own for a very long time qualifies or will qualify as
"high-end" ... be gentle. That being said:

I own an Aiwa Mini-Shelf System (CX-NA71) which is pretty much broken.
The CD player stopped working years ago -- and I even lost the
envelope containing the instructions on how to receive a replacement
when a class-action lawsuit was brought against them... however, that
is not my concern. The headphone input has been basically destroyed
(a very long story that I do not care to tell! , and as a result I
can only get sound out of both speakers with a hilariously stupid,
McGuyver-esque homemade solution (you don't want to know).

I would like to continue using the same speakers (SX-FNA71), but want
to replace the receiver. Although I see the CX-NA71 systems being
eFlay'd on occasion, I don't have to get another one; rather, I would
prefer a new audio/video receiver entirely. I run my computer's sound
through the receiver, and I'm getting tired of not having it half the
time. What would y'all suggest? I have a very sad, low budget and
can't really spend more than $120. (Take time to laugh at me, now.
Go ahead!)

....

(done?)

I was mainly just wondering if there are any requirements for the
receiver to meet the criteria of the speakers themselves. If I recall
correctly, they're 120W. (Again, I know nothing about audio equipment
in general.)

Thanks,
Perry

[Arny Krueger]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message


I own an Aiwa Mini-Shelf System (CX-NA71) which is pretty
much broken. The CD player stopped working years ago --
and I even lost the envelope containing the instructions
on how to receive a replacement when a class-action
lawsuit was brought against them... however, that is not
my concern. The headphone input has been basically
destroyed (a very long story that I do not care to tell!
, and as a result I can only get sound out of both
speakers with a hilariously stupid, McGuyver-esque
homemade solution (you don't want to know).

I would like to continue using the same speakers
(SX-FNA71), but want to replace the receiver. Although I
see the CX-NA71 systems being eFlay'd on occasion, I
don't have to get another one; rather, I would prefer a
new audio/video receiver entirely. I run my computer's
sound through the receiver, and I'm getting tired of not
having it half the time. What would y'all suggest? I
have a very sad, low budget and can't really spend more
than $120. (Take time to laugh at me, now. Go ahead!)

I've been using a Sherwood RX-4100 for TV sound for about 5 months now, and
it seems to be fine for that application.

I've seen them as low as $79.95, but paid more like $100 for mine.

[Walt]

Perry Justus wrote:

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to pro audio, and nothing I own or
will probably own for a very long time qualifies or will qualify as
"high-end" ... be gentle. That being said:

I own an Aiwa Mini-Shelf System (CX-NA71) which is pretty much broken.

I would like to continue using the same speakers (SX-FNA71), but want
to replace the receiver. ... I have a very sad, low budget and
can't really spend more than $120. (Take time to laugh at me, now.
Go ahead!)

There's reasonable quality stuff on Ebay at your price point, but you
need to know what you're looking for.

Why do you need an A/V receiver? Would a stereo (2 channel) suffice?
Are you switching video sources? Do you decode 5-1 audio? Do you even
have the speakers for 5-1? Do you think you might want to upgrade to
5-1 at some point?

I was mainly just wondering if there are any requirements for the
receiver to meet the criteria of the speakers themselves. If I recall
correctly, they're 120W. (Again, I know nothing about audio equipment
in general.)

Pretty much any speaker is compatible with any receiver. There are some
esoteric speakers that demand more from an amp, but that's not what
you've got. Any receiver will drive them. If you want to play them
loud, you'll need more power. As for audio quality, your limiting
factor is your speakers, as long as the receiver you buy isn't actually
broken.


//Walt

[Perry Justus]

On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:04:29 -0500, Walt
wrote:

Perry Justus wrote:

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to pro audio, and nothing I own or
will probably own for a very long time qualifies or will qualify as
"high-end" ... be gentle. That being said:

I own an Aiwa Mini-Shelf System (CX-NA71) which is pretty much broken.

I would like to continue using the same speakers (SX-FNA71), but want
to replace the receiver. ... I have a very sad, low budget and
can't really spend more than $120. (Take time to laugh at me, now.
Go ahead!)

There's reasonable quality stuff on Ebay at your price point, but you
need to know what you're looking for.

Why do you need an A/V receiver? Would a stereo (2 channel) suffice?
Are you switching video sources? Do you decode 5-1 audio? Do you even
have the speakers for 5-1? Do you think you might want to upgrade to
5-1 at some point?

I need it mainly so I can run my computer's sound through the
video/aux without hassle (and so I can use headphones again). I also
listen to music almost constantly, but usually through headphones, and
I've been having to use a cheap RCA boombox for that...

I might upgrade the speakers someday, but for now, drums and cymbals
are my main priority.


I was mainly just wondering if there are any requirements for the
receiver to meet the criteria of the speakers themselves. If I recall
correctly, they're 120W. (Again, I know nothing about audio equipment
in general.)

Pretty much any speaker is compatible with any receiver. There are some
esoteric speakers that demand more from an amp, but that's not what
you've got. Any receiver will drive them. If you want to play them
loud, you'll need more power. As for audio quality, your limiting
factor is your speakers, as long as the receiver you buy isn't actually
broken.


//Walt

Thanks for the info. I had assumed that just about any receiver would
do, but last night I was starting to worry that they may not be
compatible with everything.

Take care,
Perry

[Walt]

Perry Justus wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:04:29 -0500, Walt wrote:

Why do you need an A/V receiver? Would a stereo (2 channel) suffice?
Are you switching video sources? Do you decode 5-1 audio? Do you even
have the speakers for 5-1? Do you think you might want to upgrade to
5-1 at some point?

I need it mainly so I can run my computer's sound through the
video/aux without hassle (and so I can use headphones again). I also
listen to music almost constantly, but usually through headphones, and
I've been having to use a cheap RCA boombox for that...

Then you don't need an A/V receiver. Any stereo receiver should do it.
All you need is an aux input, which are labeled variously as
aux/tape/cd/vcr/video/dvd/etc. It doesn't matter what the label says,
all these inputs have the same electrical characteristics and will work
fine with the output of your computer's sound card. All you need is a
mini-plug to dual RCA adaptor, which you can get anywhere electronics or
computers are sold.

If you're really strapped for cash, check garage sales or the local
re-use center. The problem with Ebay or any other mail order venue is
that you're going to spend 20 to 40 bucks on shipping.

If you don't mind paying shipping, this would be a good choice:
http://secondact.zoovy.com/product/DRA295RB

[Perry Justus]

On Tue, 21 Nov 2006 09:44:46 -0500, Walt
wrote:

Perry Justus wrote:
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:04:29 -0500, Walt wrote:

Why do you need an A/V receiver? Would a stereo (2 channel) suffice?
Are you switching video sources? Do you decode 5-1 audio? Do you even
have the speakers for 5-1? Do you think you might want to upgrade to
5-1 at some point?

I need it mainly so I can run my computer's sound through the
video/aux without hassle (and so I can use headphones again). I also
listen to music almost constantly, but usually through headphones, and
I've been having to use a cheap RCA boombox for that...

Then you don't need an A/V receiver. Any stereo receiver should do it.
All you need is an aux input, which are labeled variously as
aux/tape/cd/vcr/video/dvd/etc. It doesn't matter what the label says,
all these inputs have the same electrical characteristics and will work
fine with the output of your computer's sound card. All you need is a
mini-plug to dual RCA adaptor, which you can get anywhere electronics or
computers are sold.

If you're really strapped for cash, check garage sales or the local
re-use center. The problem with Ebay or any other mail order venue is
that you're going to spend 20 to 40 bucks on shipping.

If you don't mind paying shipping, this would be a good choice:
http://secondact.zoovy.com/product/DRA295RB

Yes, that's sorta what I meant... when I thought "aux" I thought
"A/V." It seems like most receivers have video inputs anyhow, though.
I'm definitely looking into getting some type of cheaper Denon.

Perry

[Perry Justus]

On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 05:22:07 -0600, Perry Justus
wrote:

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to pro audio, and nothing I own or
will probably own for a very long time qualifies or will qualify as
"high-end" ... be gentle. That being said:
snip

Update: I found a used Denon AVR-610 in excellent condition. It
doesn't have a ton of inputs, but I don't need a ton. I got it for
$76. Good? Bad? I couldn't find anything recent about it on Usenet,
but it seems it was selling for $100-300 used a few years ago.

Perry

[ScottW]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 05:22:07 -0600, Perry Justus
wrote:

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to pro audio, and nothing I own or
will probably own for a very long time qualifies or will qualify as
"high-end" ... be gentle. That being said:
snip

Update: I found a used Denon AVR-610 in excellent condition. It
doesn't have a ton of inputs, but I don't need a ton. I got it for
$76. Good? Bad? I couldn't find anything recent about it on Usenet,
but it seems it was selling for $100-300 used a few years ago.

Sounds like a good deal to me.
I added a signal switch for multiple coax digital sources
to my input challenged Pioneer. Works great.

ScottW

[Perry Justus]

Okay, I got the Denon. I didn't have any trouble with it except that
the front speaker binding posts were the more modern plug types, and
my speakers had bare wire to connect. I unscrewed one of the speaker
binding posts, but then I realized that I had no clue what I was
doing, so I tried (emphasis on "tried") to screw it back in. It was
hard to screw in, though, and when I got it in, it apparently pushed
the metal connector piece inside the hole back, so now I can't thread
it in because the screw moves freely within the hole. Am I totally
screwed, or can this be fixed? I just can't believe it was that easy
to make such a blunder, but I'm a complete moron!

Thanks,

Perry

[Perry Justus]

On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 17:56:36 -0600, Perry Justus
wrote:

Okay, I got the Denon. I didn't have any trouble with it except that
the front speaker binding posts were the more modern plug types, and
my speakers had bare wire to connect. I unscrewed one of the speaker
binding posts, but then I realized that I had no clue what I was
doing, so I tried (emphasis on "tried") to screw it back in. It was
hard to screw in, though, and when I got it in, it apparently pushed
the metal connector piece inside the hole back, so now I can't thread
it in because the screw moves freely within the hole. Am I totally
screwed, or can this be fixed? I just can't believe it was that easy
to make such a blunder, but I'm a complete moron!

Thanks,

Perry

I took the top off the case to inspect it, and it's more like a thin
wire that's become uncoiled/unraveled, and that's why the screw just
sticks straight through rather than being threaded in. (Another
shining example of my ignorance when it comes to electronics.) What
can I do to fix it so that I can screw the post back in? Or am I just
screwed (no pun intended)?

Perry

[Sander deWaal]

Perry Justus said:


Okay, I got the Denon. I didn't have any trouble with it except that
the front speaker binding posts were the more modern plug types, and
my speakers had bare wire to connect. I unscrewed one of the speaker
binding posts, but then I realized that I had no clue what I was
doing, so I tried (emphasis on "tried") to screw it back in. It was
hard to screw in, though, and when I got it in, it apparently pushed
the metal connector piece inside the hole back, so now I can't thread
it in because the screw moves freely within the hole. Am I totally
screwed, or can this be fixed? I just can't believe it was that easy
to make such a blunder, but I'm a complete moron!


I took the top off the case to inspect it, and it's more like a thin
wire that's become uncoiled/unraveled, and that's why the screw just
sticks straight through rather than being threaded in. (Another
shining example of my ignorance when it comes to electronics.) What
can I do to fix it so that I can screw the post back in? Or am I just
screwed (no pun intended)?


Is the thread of the screw damaged?
If not, you might try to mount a washer and nut inside to hold the
termination + screw inside.
Make sure it makes contact with the piece of wire that seems to belong
there (I'm afraid I don't get exactly what you mean by that, is there
a wire coming from the amplifier that has to be connected to the
termination? )

Usually, the speaker connectors are mounted directly on the printed
circuit board, but since I don't know the guts of your Denon, it can
be just wire as well.


--
- Ever seen someone with 5.1 ears? So, what does that tell you? -

[Perry Justus]

On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 18:45:06 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Okay, I got the Denon. I didn't have any trouble with it except that
the front speaker binding posts were the more modern plug types, and
my speakers had bare wire to connect. I unscrewed one of the speaker
binding posts, but then I realized that I had no clue what I was
doing, so I tried (emphasis on "tried") to screw it back in. It was
hard to screw in, though, and when I got it in, it apparently pushed
the metal connector piece inside the hole back, so now I can't thread
it in because the screw moves freely within the hole. Am I totally
screwed, or can this be fixed? I just can't believe it was that easy
to make such a blunder, but I'm a complete moron!


I took the top off the case to inspect it, and it's more like a thin
wire that's become uncoiled/unraveled, and that's why the screw just
sticks straight through rather than being threaded in. (Another
shining example of my ignorance when it comes to electronics.) What
can I do to fix it so that I can screw the post back in? Or am I just
screwed (no pun intended)?


Is the thread of the screw damaged?
If not, you might try to mount a washer and nut inside to hold the
termination + screw inside.
Make sure it makes contact with the piece of wire that seems to belong
there (I'm afraid I don't get exactly what you mean by that, is there
a wire coming from the amplifier that has to be connected to the
termination? )

Nope, the screw itself is fine. The piece of wire is not like, well,
wire -- it's the insert that the screw threads into (that's the best
way I can describe it). When I put the screw back in, it dislodged
the thread, unraveling it. It's still attached to the inside of the
hole, though, for what it's worth.


Usually, the speaker connectors are mounted directly on the printed
circuit board, but since I don't know the guts of your Denon, it can
be just wire as well.

Yup, as far as I can tell, they're mounted directly.

Perry

[ScottW]

Perry Justus wrote:
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 18:45:06 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Okay, I got the Denon. I didn't have any trouble with it except that
the front speaker binding posts were the more modern plug types, and
my speakers had bare wire to connect. I unscrewed one of the speaker
binding posts, but then I realized that I had no clue what I was
doing, so I tried (emphasis on "tried") to screw it back in. It was
hard to screw in, though, and when I got it in, it apparently pushed
the metal connector piece inside the hole back, so now I can't thread
it in because the screw moves freely within the hole. Am I totally
screwed, or can this be fixed? I just can't believe it was that easy
to make such a blunder, but I'm a complete moron!


I took the top off the case to inspect it, and it's more like a thin
wire that's become uncoiled/unraveled, and that's why the screw just
sticks straight through rather than being threaded in. (Another
shining example of my ignorance when it comes to electronics.) What
can I do to fix it so that I can screw the post back in? Or am I just
screwed (no pun intended)?


Is the thread of the screw damaged?
If not, you might try to mount a washer and nut inside to hold the
termination + screw inside.
Make sure it makes contact with the piece of wire that seems to belong
there (I'm afraid I don't get exactly what you mean by that, is there
a wire coming from the amplifier that has to be connected to the
termination? )

Nope, the screw itself is fine. The piece of wire is not like, well,
wire -- it's the insert that the screw threads into (that's the best
way I can describe it).

Sounds like a helicoil insert

When I put the screw back in, it dislodged
the thread, unraveling it. It's still attached to the inside of the
hole, though, for what it's worth.

I think you broke it. Shouldn't be an expensive repair but you'll
need someone
who knows what to do.

ScottW

[Sander deWaal]

"ScottW" said:


Perry Justus wrote:

When I put the screw back in, it dislodged
the thread, unraveling it. It's still attached to the inside of the
hole, though, for what it's worth.


I think you broke it. Shouldn't be an expensive repair but you'll
need someone
who knows what to do.


Sage advice.

Find yourself a good tech that still knows what a soldering iron is,
instead of just swapping boards.
Either that, or a good hobbyist.

I think you'll have to order a spare speaker binding post from Denon,
though, unless your repair guy has some universal solution in stock.

I have, but since I'm in Europe....... :-(

Another option might be to order and use universal binding posts from
Mouser, Digikey or Radio Shack (do they still exist? ).


--
- Ever seen someone with 5.1 ears? So, what does that tell you? -

[Perry Justus]

On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 23:28:40 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

"ScottW" said:


Perry Justus wrote:

When I put the screw back in, it dislodged
the thread, unraveling it. It's still attached to the inside of the
hole, though, for what it's worth.


I think you broke it. Shouldn't be an expensive repair but you'll
need someone
who knows what to do.


Sage advice.

Find yourself a good tech that still knows what a soldering iron is,
instead of just swapping boards.
Either that, or a good hobbyist.

I think you'll have to order a spare speaker binding post from Denon,
though, unless your repair guy has some universal solution in stock.

I have, but since I'm in Europe....... :-(

Another option might be to order and use universal binding posts from
Mouser, Digikey or Radio Shack (do they still exist? ).

The posts are fine, it's just the helicoil.

Perry

[Sander deWaal]

Perry Justus said:


The posts are fine, it's just the helicoil.


Yup, but I suspect that everything is fitted in one unit (of 2 or even
4 connections).
You can't simply replace one helicoil, but you must replace the entire
structure.

I could be wrong, but it would be highly unlikely that a mass-market
manufacturer like Denon would use separate binding posts with wire.


--
- Ever seen someone with 5.1 ears? So, what does that tell you? -

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:17:15 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


The posts are fine, it's just the helicoil.


Yup, but I suspect that everything is fitted in one unit (of 2 or even
4 connections).
You can't simply replace one helicoil, but you must replace the entire
structure.

I could be wrong, but it would be highly unlikely that a mass-market
manufacturer like Denon would use separate binding posts with wire.

Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.

Perry

[Sander deWaal]

Perry Justus said:


Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.


I think I misunderstood you all this time.

You meant the screw that keeps the entire connector in place in the
back, not a speaker post itself?

Yes, you can use a bolt, washers and a nut to keep it in place.
Drill a hole of the right size through the connector house, and stick
the bolt through it. Tighten and you're all set.

Apologies for the confusion!


--
- Ever seen someone with 5.1 ears? So, what does that tell you? -

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:28:35 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.


I think I misunderstood you all this time.

You meant the screw that keeps the entire connector in place in the
back, not a speaker post itself?

Yes, you can use a bolt, washers and a nut to keep it in place.
Drill a hole of the right size through the connector house, and stick
the bolt through it. Tighten and you're all set.

Apologies for the confusion!

I'm probably still not being clear enough... to be specific, it's the
+ L speaker input that the banana jack (I think that's the correct
term) screws into. I unscrewed the banana because, well, I'm an
idiot, but I misunderstood someone's directions (I thought they meant
unscrew it completely, not just loosen it). When I tried to screw it
back in is when the thread inside the hole was broken.

Perry

[ScottW]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:28:35 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.


I think I misunderstood you all this time.

You meant the screw that keeps the entire connector in place in the
back, not a speaker post itself?

Yes, you can use a bolt, washers and a nut to keep it in place.
Drill a hole of the right size through the connector house, and stick
the bolt through it. Tighten and you're all set.

Apologies for the confusion!

I'm probably still not being clear enough... to be specific, it's the
+ L speaker input that the banana jack (I think that's the correct
term) screws into.

On a speaker cable would be a banana plug.
A jack is a receptacle or a female connector into which the plug or
male connector is inserted.
A binding post usually has a hole where a banana plug can be inserted and
a outer part that when screwed out reveals a hole where a wire can be inserted
and clamped down on when screwed back in.

Here's a picture of a 5 way binding post.
http://www.superiorelectric.com/5-WAYBindingPosts.htm

which is bulkhead mounted (has a nut on the back for mounting in a hole
in a plate or back panel of a receiver). Not likely Denon uses this as
it would take one for each channel. They probably have a multi-connector
custom assembly. But it might be useful to clearly describing what
broke. Something in the binding post or something used to hold the
binding post in place.

I unscrewed the banana because, well, I'm an
idiot,

Banana plugs don't screw in and out...they just plug in.
If you twisted one and the contacts inside the binding post was
in some kind of a coil you might have unwound the coil I guess
(I've never seen one like that).

Here's an assortment of audio contacts and binding posts.
http://www.hometech.com/audio/spconn.html

Maybe this will help describe what failed.

ScottW

[Perry Justus]

On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 20:10:09 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:


"Perry Justus" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:28:35 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.


I think I misunderstood you all this time.

You meant the screw that keeps the entire connector in place in the
back, not a speaker post itself?

Yes, you can use a bolt, washers and a nut to keep it in place.
Drill a hole of the right size through the connector house, and stick
the bolt through it. Tighten and you're all set.

Apologies for the confusion!

I'm probably still not being clear enough... to be specific, it's the
+ L speaker input that the banana jack (I think that's the correct
term) screws into.

On a speaker cable would be a banana plug.
A jack is a receptacle or a female connector into which the plug or
male connector is inserted.
A binding post usually has a hole where a banana plug can be inserted and
a outer part that when screwed out reveals a hole where a wire can be inserted
and clamped down on when screwed back in.

Here's a picture of a 5 way binding post.
http://www.superiorelectric.com/5-WAYBindingPosts.htm

which is bulkhead mounted (has a nut on the back for mounting in a hole
in a plate or back panel of a receiver). Not likely Denon uses this as
it would take one for each channel. They probably have a multi-connector
custom assembly. But it might be useful to clearly describing what
broke. Something in the binding post or something used to hold the
binding post in place.

I unscrewed the banana because, well, I'm an
idiot,

Banana plugs don't screw in and out...they just plug in.
If you twisted one and the contacts inside the binding post was
in some kind of a coil you might have unwound the coil I guess
(I've never seen one like that).

Here's an assortment of audio contacts and binding posts.
http://www.hometech.com/audio/spconn.html

Maybe this will help describe what failed.

ScottW

This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

(Apologies for using the picture to whoever has that site - I found it
off of an expired eBay auction.)

Perry

[Arny Krueger]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message


This is the only picture of something similar to what's
on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

(Apologies for using the picture to whoever has that site
- I found it off of an expired eBay auction.)

So what is broken?

Did you totally try to remove the rotating part?

[Clyde Slick]

Arny Krueger a scris:
"Perry Justus" wrote in message


This is the only picture of something similar to what's
on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

(Apologies for using the picture to whoever has that site
- I found it off of an expired eBay auction.)

So what is broken?

Did you totally try to remove the rotating part?

[Clyde Slick]

Arny Krueger a scris:
"Perry Justus" wrote in message


This is the only picture of something similar to what's
on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

(Apologies for using the picture to whoever has that site
- I found it off of an expired eBay auction.)

So what is broken?

Did you totally try to remove the rotating part?

He totally tried to remove part of it.
But the real question is: Did you try to remove your
rotating part ( i.e., your beanie propellor)?

[ScottW]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 20:10:09 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:


"Perry Justus" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 00:28:35 +0100, Sander deWaal
wrote:

Perry Justus said:


Yikes... could I just use a washer and a nut to tighten it instead? I
can't believe this happened.


I think I misunderstood you all this time.

You meant the screw that keeps the entire connector in place in the
back, not a speaker post itself?

Yes, you can use a bolt, washers and a nut to keep it in place.
Drill a hole of the right size through the connector house, and stick
the bolt through it. Tighten and you're all set.

Apologies for the confusion!

I'm probably still not being clear enough... to be specific, it's the
+ L speaker input that the banana jack (I think that's the correct
term) screws into.

On a speaker cable would be a banana plug.
A jack is a receptacle or a female connector into which the plug or
male connector is inserted.
A binding post usually has a hole where a banana plug can be inserted and
a outer part that when screwed out reveals a hole where a wire can be inserted
and clamped down on when screwed back in.

Here's a picture of a 5 way binding post.
http://www.superiorelectric.com/5-WAYBindingPosts.htm

which is bulkhead mounted (has a nut on the back for mounting in a hole
in a plate or back panel of a receiver). Not likely Denon uses this as
it would take one for each channel. They probably have a multi-connector
custom assembly. But it might be useful to clearly describing what
broke. Something in the binding post or something used to hold the
binding post in place.

I unscrewed the banana because, well, I'm an
idiot,

Banana plugs don't screw in and out...they just plug in.
If you twisted one and the contacts inside the binding post was
in some kind of a coil you might have unwound the coil I guess
(I've never seen one like that).

Here's an assortment of audio contacts and binding posts.
http://www.hometech.com/audio/spconn.html

Maybe this will help describe what failed.

ScottW

This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

Sorry Perry..this link isn't working for me.
BTW...I can't even find an AVR 610 on Denon's site.

ScottW

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 12:02:36 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:
This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

Sorry Perry..this link isn't working for me.
BTW...I can't even find an AVR 610 on Denon's site.

ScottW


Here, I uploaded the picture and changed the file name:
http://members.cox.net/pjustus/smkspeakerinputscase.jpg

The part that I broke is the helicoil that the screw threads into.
All I need is something to provide the screw with a secure, tight
connection.

Perry

[ScottW]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 12:02:36 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:
This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

Sorry Perry..this link isn't working for me.
BTW...I can't even find an AVR 610 on Denon's site.

ScottW


Here, I uploaded the picture and changed the file name:
http://members.cox.net/pjustus/smkspeakerinputscase.jpg

The part that I broke is the helicoil that the screw threads into.
All I need is something to provide the screw with a secure, tight
connection.

Is the helicoil part of the outer black plastic or the inner
orange plastic?

The picture appear to be of a bring spring loaded
2 way jack
so they can grab a bare wire around the base or accept
a bananna plug in the end. If what you broke was really a spring...
it might not be part of the electrical contact at all and still accept
a banana plug. Is there a metal barrel still stick out in the
center the hole? If there is ..... you can probably put a banana plug
on your speaker wire (available at Radio shack or even home depot)
and plug it in.

Since you can post this pic...maybe you get a digital camera
and take a pic of your broken connector. A buddy with a camera
phone perhaps.

ScottW

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 15:14:33 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:


"Perry Justus" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 12:02:36 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:
This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

Sorry Perry..this link isn't working for me.
BTW...I can't even find an AVR 610 on Denon's site.

ScottW


Here, I uploaded the picture and changed the file name:
http://members.cox.net/pjustus/smkspeakerinputscase.jpg

The part that I broke is the helicoil that the screw threads into.
All I need is something to provide the screw with a secure, tight
connection.

Is the helicoil part of the outer black plastic or the inner
orange plastic?

The picture appear to be of a bring spring loaded
2 way jack
so they can grab a bare wire around the base or accept
a bananna plug in the end. If what you broke was really a spring...
it might not be part of the electrical contact at all and still accept
a banana plug. Is there a metal barrel still stick out in the
center the hole? If there is ..... you can probably put a banana plug
on your speaker wire (available at Radio shack or even home depot)
and plug it in.

Since you can post this pic...maybe you get a digital camera
and take a pic of your broken connector. A buddy with a camera
phone perhaps.

ScottW


The metal barrel (helicoil?) in the center of the hole is unraveled
(unspooled?). The screw on the end of the jack which goes into the
hole fits loosely inside the hole, since there's nothing to hold it as
it screws in, so I can't tighten it. I'll take a picture ASAP. I
wish I was better at describing things.

Perry

[ScottW]

"Perry Justus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 15:14:33 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:


"Perry Justus" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 12:02:36 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:
This is the only picture of something similar to what's on my Denon:

http://www.wfp76364.w1.com/SMK%20SPE...7%20%235.j pg

Sorry Perry..this link isn't working for me.
BTW...I can't even find an AVR 610 on Denon's site.

ScottW


Here, I uploaded the picture and changed the file name:
http://members.cox.net/pjustus/smkspeakerinputscase.jpg

The part that I broke is the helicoil that the screw threads into.
All I need is something to provide the screw with a secure, tight
connection.

Is the helicoil part of the outer black plastic or the inner
orange plastic?

The picture appear to be of a bring spring loaded
2 way jack
so they can grab a bare wire around the base or accept
a bananna plug in the end. If what you broke was really a spring...
it might not be part of the electrical contact at all and still accept
a banana plug. Is there a metal barrel still stick out in the
center the hole? If there is ..... you can probably put a banana plug
on your speaker wire (available at Radio shack or even home depot)
and plug it in.

Since you can post this pic...maybe you get a digital camera
and take a pic of your broken connector. A buddy with a camera
phone perhaps.

ScottW


The metal barrel (helicoil?) in the center of the hole is unraveled
(unspooled?).

If that thing spooled is supposed to be the electical contact to the
speaker via a banana plug on the speaker wire....then unspooling
it is obviously bad.

The screw on the end of the jack which goes into the
hole fits loosely inside the hole, since there's nothing to hold it as
it screws in, so I can't tighten it.

That seems unrelated to the "unspooling" above...could there have
been a retaining nut on the backside that fell off inside the receiver?


I'll take a picture ASAP.

A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

ScottW

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 15:56:05 -0800, "ScottW"
wrote:

The metal barrel (helicoil?) in the center of the hole is unraveled
(unspooled?).

If that thing spooled is supposed to be the electical contact to the
speaker via a banana plug on the speaker wire....then unspooling
it is obviously bad.

The screw on the end of the jack which goes into the
hole fits loosely inside the hole, since there's nothing to hold it as
it screws in, so I can't tighten it.

That seems unrelated to the "unspooling" above...could there have
been a retaining nut on the backside that fell off inside the receiver?

I shined a flashlight inside the other one that I unscrewed, and the
helicoil thing looks like the only thing that could screw the screw
in. I didn't see anything loose inside the receiver. :-/

Perry



I'll take a picture ASAP.

A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

ScottW



Perry

[Perry Justus]

On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 19:13:47 -0600, Perry Justus
wrote:
That seems unrelated to the "unspooling" above...could there have
been a retaining nut on the backside that fell off inside the receiver?

I shined a flashlight inside the other one that I unscrewed, and the
helicoil thing looks like the only thing that could screw the screw
in. I didn't see anything loose inside the receiver. :-/

Perry

Some good news... I went ahead and screwed the other post back in,
gritting my teeth as I did it, but with success, and then I put in the
one that goes into the hole with the broken piece. I tightened down
all the speaker wires and just put the loose jack as close to the wire
as possible, and now I'm getting sound out of all front channels. So
it's just a jack security issue; nothing electric inside is broken.
(Yay!) I'm thinking I could just get some kind of nut and washer to
secure the screw now?


Perry