Pro Gold is probably the best kind of cleaner that you can use. It is
around 17 dollars a can, but it is worth it.

Pete

Jeff Wiseman wrote in message
news:ZlPHa.59786$YZ2.221612@rwcrnsc53...
David Finton wrote:

stuff Deleted
I should try some contact cleaner in the NAD, though. I've never
done anything like that before. I suppose Radio Shack would sell
me some stuff in a can with a little tube. I wonder if the push-

Yes, get the spray type cleaner. They also make liquid type
cleaners but the spray is far better/easier to use for what you
are attempting. It is also not real expensive.

button switches and volume / balance controls are sealed, or if
I'll find an opening to squirt some contact cleaner in them.

The older the unit is, the less likely the controls are sealed
(and even "sealed" controls usually aren't water-tight).

If I do that, do I just squirt the cleaner, move the control
back and forth, and give it a day to dry out before plugging
it back in?

Well, sorta. Usually by the time you put the cover back on it's
all done. The carrier of the solution is some kind of solvent
that really penetrates so it evaporates quickly. A few suggestions:

1) Hold the tip of the tube as close as possible to the opening
or even inside it if possible.

2) practice a really short blast. Even the better cleaners that
come with the adjustable pressure nozzle (like Caig ProGold)
tends to have lots of pressure. It's good for getting out the
gunk but tend to fly all over the place. I'll usually place my
hand or a rag around the area I'm shooting.

3) As you mentioned, moving the control between its limits while
the solution is in it will help.

4) the carrier of the soulution usually dissipates within a
minute or two.

5) The real trick is usually getting the unit apart far enough to
get to the controls to spray them. Be careful of getting spray
down in behind any faceplates or you'll have to take things even
farther apart in order to clean the residue off of the faceplate.

- Jeff

Jeff Wiseman wrote in message news:ZlPHa.59786$YZ2.221612@rwcrnsc53...
David Finton wrote:


3) As you mentioned, moving the control between its limits while
the solution is in it will help.

4) the carrier of the soulution usually dissipates within a
minute or two.

Some go quickly, others stay around for a long times. Cramolin
Contaclean stays
wet for a long time, where Caig De-Oxit dries very fast. To be
honest, sprays are good for hosing down things. They wash away
contaminants, but
are not usefull for good long tern results. You need full strength
Cramolin red, or Caig De-Oxit full strength tubes, or diluted
Stabilant 22, for any good long lasting results. On some of the better
semisealed pots, I turn the unit upside-down, and spray the wires
where they enter the pot. The liquid will seep in.

greg

On 1 Jul 2003 16:15:11 GMT, (gregS) wrote:

Jeff Wiseman wrote in message news:ZlPHa.59786$YZ2.221612@rwcrnsc53...
David Finton wrote:

The liquid will seep in.

You may also think about dismanteling the complete pot and clean it
up. I've just done this on a headphone out of a cheap CD Player.
Usually I replace the pot, but in this case I can't find a replacement
because it' a motor driven one.

cu Joachim

gregS wrote:
On some of the better
semisealed pots, I turn the unit upside-down, and spray the wires
where they enter the pot. The liquid will seep in.


===============================================

There used to be a tool which was designed to screw onto the standard
mounting for a pot. Had a place on it where you could insert the
standard plastic nozzle for a spray can. You'd take off the knob, put
this together and spray whatever you wanted into it. A repair shop
friend of mine had one. It worked very well, and saved a him lot of
time. It was in the McGee Radio catalog (this will date me, if nothing
else does), but like a fool, I didn't buy one and I have not seen one in
many years.

-Gene Poon