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#1
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can
be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) |
#2
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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![]() "MD" wrote in message ... I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) I share your frustration.... of all the equipment reviews...I find turntable reviews absolutely the least useful, unless maybe one plans to duplicate the exact setup. I can really understand why a premium service provider like Gene Rubin can be very useful in this market. Note: I've never had the priviledge of visiting his place but those I know that have had nothing but positive things to say. ScottW |
#3
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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In article EwJbg.31246$fG3.28465@dukeread09,
"ScottW" wrote: "MD" wrote in message ... I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) I share your frustration.... of all the equipment reviews...I find turntable reviews absolutely the least useful, unless maybe one plans to duplicate the exact setup. I can really understand why a premium service provider like Gene Rubin can be very useful in this market. Note: I've never had the priviledge of visiting his place but those I know that have had nothing but positive things to say. ScottW Gene is fantastic. |
#4
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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![]() MD wrote: I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) An excellent question for John Atkinson or K. Rubison to answer. They have been following this foorum in the past Ludovic Mirabel |
#5
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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"MD" wrote in message
I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Obviously, the purpose of the reviews is to sell a particular combination of components, not shed light on vinyl playback technology. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. Why bother? That's work! Besides, most reviews of vinyl playback equipment include zero measurements of relevant parameters like speed stability, mechanical noise, frequency response, etc. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) Take it as tacit admission that LP playback technology is about sentiment, not performance. You don't find many detailed track tests of Model T Fords, right? |
#6
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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Arny Krueger wrote:
"MD" wrote in message I have read a lot of TT reviews. On almost no case where the arms can be changed do the reviewers change arms to eliminate that variable. Obviously, the purpose of the reviews is to sell a particular combination of components, not shed light on vinyl playback technology. Additionally there are times when the cartridge is not changed. Why bother? That's work! Besides, most reviews of vinyl playback equipment include zero measurements of relevant parameters like speed stability, mechanical noise, frequency response, etc. As such it seems that most reviews are really about the cartridge and arm. (his assumes the TT itself has the least effect of the 3 on sound) Take it as tacit admission that LP playback technology is about sentiment, not performance. You don't find many detailed track tests of Model T Fords, right? The purpose of my post was not to incite an anti-TT discussion. Especially since I prefer analog over digital |
#7
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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![]() MD wrote: The purpose of my post was not to incite an anti-TT discussion. Especially since I prefer analog over digital There's quite a few people whose interest in analogue is limited to bashing it. Personally, I look at it this way... I've hundreds of albums and CDs. I want them both to sound great. I recently replaced my cart on TT (a Mitusbishi LT-30, its a linear tracker). And I was going through the Hi-Fi News Test record and found that this album has a blank spot between each track.... no groove. So since I put my new cart on... my arm refuses to proceeed to the next track.... in fact if I set the needle down before the track it will slide back to the end of the preceding track. Note.. there is no antiskating on this arm.... So I did a careful channel check and all seems fine.... but the fact the arm tends to move right would indicate the stylus overhand is a bit short. I double checked the setup using the supplied overhang gauge and it seems right on. I wonder if this phenom could be used to set the overhang more precisely than the gauge allows. Seems like if I had the stylus dead on so the contact point of the record was moving directly away from the base...there'd be no movement of the arm left or right. Anybody run into this and used real blank (not an unmodulated groove) to set overhang? ScottW |
#8
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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"ScottW" wrote in message
oups.com Note.. there is no antiskating on this arm.... So I did a careful channel check and all seems fine.... but the fact the arm tends to move right would indicate the stylus overhand is a bit short. I presume you mean overhang. More likely, the arm tends to move right due to some unresolved source of force on the arm, forcing it to the right. I double checked the setup using the supplied overhang gauge and it seems right on. That follows. I wonder if this phenom could be used to set the overhang more precisely than the gauge allows. No, bad causuality. Seems like if I had the stylus dead on so the contact point of the record was moving directly away from the base...there'd be no movement of the arm left or right. Not necessarily. Anybody run into this and used real blank (not an unmodulated groove) to set overhang? Doesn't matter as long as you have the height right when you set overhang. |
#9
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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![]() "Arny Krueger" wrote in message . .. "ScottW" wrote in message oups.com Note.. there is no antiskating on this arm.... So I did a careful channel check and all seems fine.... but the fact the arm tends to move right would indicate the stylus overhand is a bit short. I presume you mean overhang. More likely, the arm tends to move right due to some unresolved source of force on the arm, forcing it to the right. I double checked the setup using the supplied overhang gauge and it seems right on. That follows. I wonder if this phenom could be used to set the overhang more precisely than the gauge allows. No, bad causuality. Seems like if I had the stylus dead on so the contact point of the record was moving directly away from the base...there'd be no movement of the arm left or right. Not necessarily. Anybody run into this and used real blank (not an unmodulated groove) to set overhang? Doesn't matter as long as you have the height right when you set overhang. Wow...thanks for the deeply thought out and detailed explanation. It was so moving I printed it out on my softest paper and put it on a roll in the bathroom where it will be put to the best use possible. ScottW |
#10
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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ScottW wrote:
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message . .. "ScottW" wrote in message groups.com Note.. there is no antiskating on this arm.... So I did a careful channel check and all seems fine.... but the fact the arm tends to move right would indicate the stylus overhand is a bit short. I presume you mean overhang. More likely, the arm tends to move right due to some unresolved source of force on the arm, forcing it to the right. I double checked the setup using the supplied overhang gauge and it seems right on. That follows. I wonder if this phenom could be used to set the overhang more precisely than the gauge allows. No, bad causuality. Seems like if I had the stylus dead on so the contact point of the record was moving directly away from the base...there'd be no movement of the arm left or right. Not necessarily. Anybody run into this and used real blank (not an unmodulated groove) to set overhang? Doesn't matter as long as you have the height right when you set overhang. Wow...thanks for the deeply thought out and detailed explanation. It was so moving I printed it out on my softest paper and put it on a roll in the bathroom where it will be put to the best use possible. ScottW What you are experiencing may be OK if it moves very slowly to the right. I have the Cardas and HiFi Test records. I bought the Cardas because is has dead tracks designed to set anti-skate. the goal is to have the arm move very slowly toward the inside. Well. . .the best I can get on that LP is for it to stay stationary on the middle track and it moves slowly to the inside on the outer and inner track. Setting this is touchy though so I am sure getting close is good. I just tried the tracks you are talking about on the HiFi record. First time since having the Cardas. Now I am not sure these were cut for the same purpose. However - on some I get no movement - on some I get movement in either direction. My guess is that fast movement right is bad. Especially if it happen on all of these type tracks. If any stay still or move towards the inside a bit you a probably good to go. One thing I did learn during this is that platter level is crucial. During this I actually found (with Michael Fremer's help) that my platter was actually a bit concave. This meant the table was level but the platter would only level on one side. He recommended I use a thick, flat, record instead. I used the HiFi record and all was well. (I have a suspended table which adjusts). Once I did that I could set anti-skate pretty good with the Cardas record. For reference I have the 2 point protractor to help me set overhang and offset angle. (http://www.enjoythemusic.com/freestuff.htm) To set azimuth I remove the stylus and press let the cartridge rest in the HiFi record so it is flush - Then I tighten and recheck. I realize this only works for some MM cartridges (I bought the Cardas LP because Michael Fremer told me that using the HiFi record to set Anti-skate using the bias tracks is useless. I have to agree. It seems these tracks are way too imprecise. I can almost set my anti-skate from one extreme to another and not hear a difference on the 15db track.) |
#11
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Posted to rec.audio.opinion
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![]() "MD" wrote in message ... Anybody run into this and used real blank (not an unmodulated groove) to set overhang? What you are experiencing may be OK if it moves very slowly to the right. Thanks for your input. Sounds like you have a pivot arm. Hard to quantify slow. We're dealing with an F=ma thing with a force that may be equal on a lower mass results in a higher acceleration. I have the Cardas and HiFi Test records. I bought the Cardas because is has dead tracks designed to set anti-skate. I'll have to look at that. I see the Cardas record is relatively cheap compared to the Hi-fi news which I don't find all that useful. the goal is to have the arm move very slowly toward the inside. I think thats specific to a pivot arm where the simple drag force on the stylus induces a torque on the pivot toward the center. In a LT arm...the force should be directly away inducing no torque so I shouldn't get any movement. Well. . .the best I can get on that LP is for it to stay stationary on the middle track and it moves slowly to the inside on the outer and inner track. Setting this is touchy though so I am sure getting close is good. Im sure it is and everytime I change overhang... alignment changes. I think I'll take it into work where I have a scope on an optical measurement system that will let me at least see quantitatively how much I moved it. Eyeballing it isn't near precise enough for this. But did you get any audible changes with these adjustments? I'm not... and considering that so many good arms with variable tracking error and fixed anti-skate force (even though the requirement varies with position) work well.... I wonder if there is anything to be gained here? I just tried the tracks you are talking about on the HiFi record. First time since having the Cardas. Now I am not sure these were cut for the same purpose. However - on some I get no movement - on some I get movement in either direction. My guess is that fast movement right is bad. Especially if it happen on all of these type tracks. If any stay still or move towards the inside a bit you a probably good to go. One thing I did learn during this is that platter level is crucial. Yeah... I was looking at a precision machinists level at Harbor Freight a few months back for about $20... I was think that would be cool for my pool table but now I'm bummend for not buying the 5" for my TT. During this I actually found (with Michael Fremer's help) that my platter was actually a bit concave. This meant the table was level but the platter would only level on one side. He recommended I use a thick, flat, record instead. I used the HiFi record and all was well. (I have a suspended table which adjusts). Once I did that I could set anti-skate pretty good with the Cardas record. For reference I have the 2 point protractor to help me set overhang and offset angle. (http://www.enjoythemusic.com/freestuff.htm) To set azimuth I remove the stylus and press let the cartridge rest in the HiFi record so it is flush - Then I tighten and recheck. I realize this only works for some MM cartridges I have a headshell with adjustable azimuth but it weighs a ton so I don't use it. I really don't understand why that shouldn't be factory set and rely on the cart to be square. They could be so much more precise than this. Thanks for your comments and sharing your experience. ScottW |