Hello. I need some advice in choosing an amp.

My music source is my computer. Almost all of my listening now is
streaming music on classical channels and sometimes some CD's - mostly
solo baroque instruments. I only listen at fairly low levels while
sitting at my computer, working on other stuff.

My soundcard is an M-Audio 2496 - a semi-pro card. Its peak analog
audio signal is +2dBV. (I think that means 2 volts, like a typical CD
player output) It also has a digital out with sampling up to 96kHz.

My speakers are Acoustic Energy, Aegis. These are book shelf size and
90db sensitive.

I want to get an amp with the best SOUND QUALITY I can afford, which is
about $600, either new or via eBay.

I'm wondering if I would be better off with just a straight amp, or an
integrated amp. I am also wondering if I should go for something like
the Antique Sound Lab tube monoblocks for about $365 each. Is this
Antique Sound Lab stuff really good or is it junk at that price?

Thanks very much, Mark.

markw51 wrote:
Hello. I need some advice in choosing an amp.

My music source is my computer. Almost all of my listening now is
streaming music on classical channels and sometimes some CD's - mostly
solo baroque instruments. I only listen at fairly low levels while
sitting at my computer, working on other stuff.

My soundcard is an M-Audio 2496 - a semi-pro card. Its peak analog
audio signal is +2dBV. (I think that means 2 volts, like a typical CD
player output) It also has a digital out with sampling up to 96kHz.

My speakers are Acoustic Energy, Aegis. These are book shelf size and
90db sensitive.

I want to get an amp with the best SOUND QUALITY I can afford, which is
about $600, either new or via eBay.

I'm wondering if I would be better off with just a straight amp, or an
integrated amp.

If you can control volume at the computer, you don't need an integrated
amp. OTOH, you might like some of the other controls or features
available on an integrated, such as a remote. You have to decide what
you need/want here.

I am also wondering if I should go for something like
the Antique Sound Lab tube monoblocks for about $365 each. Is this
Antique Sound Lab stuff really good or is it junk at that price?

It's junk at any price. Specs aren't everything, but have you had a
look at the specs?

http://www.divertech.com/aslwaveav20dt.htm

Flat all the way to 12kHz and 3% distortion. State of the art, man.

If you're interested in small monos, consider a couple of Parasound
Zamps, bridged. Here's a recent, very positive review:

http://www.parasound.com/pdfs/AudioCritic_ZAMP3.pdf

Should be just what you need.

bob

markw51 wrote:

Hello. I need some advice in choosing an amp.

My music source is my computer. Almost all of my listening now is
streaming music on classical channels and sometimes some CD's - mostly
solo baroque instruments. I only listen at fairly low levels while
sitting at my computer, working on other stuff.

My soundcard is an M-Audio 2496 - a semi-pro card. Its peak analog
audio signal is +2dBV. (I think that means 2 volts, like a typical CD
player output) It also has a digital out with sampling up to 96kHz.

My speakers are Acoustic Energy, Aegis. These are book shelf size and
90db sensitive.

I want to get an amp with the best SOUND QUALITY I can afford, which is
about $600, either new or via eBay.

I'm wondering if I would be better off with just a straight amp, or an
integrated amp. I am also wondering if I should go for something like
the Antique Sound Lab tube monoblocks for about $365 each. Is this
Antique Sound Lab stuff really good or is it junk at that price?

Thanks very much, Mark.


There are some who believe what Peter Aczel says - all amps of
sufficiently low distortion unclipped sound identical - to paraphrase
that point of view.

In other words, *it makes no difference what amp you use* (within reason
- that being simply basic specs)

I'd say otherwise for a variety of reasons which are not worthy of
rehash or debate - notwithstanding any published peer-reviewed or other
"tests" that indicate differently...

the above is the disclaimer, prior to my opinion.

My advice is to seriously consider the tube stuff because it will
provide you with a far more pleasurable listening experience *generally
speaking* for the application you have outlined.

I'd aim for 300Bs, P-P if possible. Or else triode strapped pentodes, if
need be.

You don't absolutely need monoblocks, but that's fine... consider used
too. They don't "go bad".

Solid state is fine too, but will give you a different *sense* of the
sound. I make and sell solid state amps, fwiw. But I also own tube amps,
fwiw.

Imho, you do not need an integrated amp, since you can do all the tone
controlling and level controlling via the computer, which btw, will
drive the amp to full output with no difficulty.

_-_-bear

A suggestion:

When you make your choice, do not let the computer and your present use
be the driver, but possible future uses be that. So, search for the
most flexibility and options such that you do not limit yourself should
you wish to expand/change the use.

To that end, and if you choose not to invest in a moderately priced
Japanese receiver... which will do you well at all sorts of levels...
you should look into in rank order: An integrated amp, such that you
will have some tone controls, you may plug in alternate sources, and
you will have a handy volume control not occupying an icon on your
desk-top. A pre-amp/power-amp combination. Same issues, but yet-greater
flexibility for the future. And you can add a tuner later to get
entirely away from your computer and its captive sound-board should the
need arise.

The latter configuration will also allow you to change the amp should
your speaker requirements become less modest in the future.

SOUND QUALITY... a couple of questions will help get the What is
your preferred source? At about what volumes? Would you go louder
(consistently) if you could? How big (and how permanent the situation)
is your listening area? Will what you are doing impinge on others (are
you ever yelled at to "TURN IT DOWN")?

Generally I suggest a 40-60wpc/rms @ 8ohm amp for those with modest
volume requirements listening to an average range of music at a nominal
slightly-above-conversational level. This gives you some headroom, and
with relatively efficient speakers, you will not be able to make your
ears bleed (safely), but you will definitely be able to eliminate
normal conversation nearby if needed.

This _almost_ pushes you over tube levels at your $600 level. But not
entirely. Certainly it pushes you outside the limits of new tube
equipment these days. But, there are options at that price.

But, if you are quite modest in your volume requirements, those
speakers would respond quite nicely to some of the smaller tube amps
out there. What comes immediately to mind is the Dynaco SCA-35,
something that even if you got it needing all-new-tubes, should come in
well-under $400. They are diddly-simple amps, so if you are something
of a do-it-yourselfer, you could even rebuild a badly-worn example (but
with good transformers) relatively cheaply. At 17wpc/rms, it will not
drive your washing machine, but it is a respectable integrated amp in
all other respects... and tube.

Bob is apt in pointing you to Parasound if a new SS amp is desired,
Can't go wrong there at the price, but you will need a pre-amp if you
ever want to add more sources. There are lots of those out there, some
pretty cheap, even. Dynaco PAT-4 comes to mind, and there are many
others, all should be less than $50 for a good one. You might even
consider something like the vintage Advent Receiver (Model 300). A
flea-power SS unit at 13wpc/rms, but it has a great front-end for
tuning, a more-than-adequate mag-cartridge pre-amp, and can be split to
be used as a tuner-preamp to another amp. Less than $75 should get you
this unit.

Put another way, there are a nearly infinite number of permutations and
combinations available. At your budget, you are outside of some ranges,
and can try several options within others. Much of that choice depends
on how handy you are with a soldering iron, and how much you are
willing to take on initially.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA