I'm currently in the process of upgrading my mid-fi system (Carver and
Rotel components, Paradigm monitor speakers) to a higher end system. So
far, I've purchased an ARC linestage and a Linn LP12. Anyhow, I've been
thinking long and hard about how I want this to pan out and could use
any wisdom from you learned audiophiles.

1. Right now I have no phono stage, making my TT useless with just a
linestage. I have an AT OC9 cart, which is an MC cart. I was thinking
about selling this and starting with a Grado Platinum, which is an MM
cart. Seems like most people are using MC carts with their LP12's, tho
I'm not sure why. The reason I wanted to go MM was because the MC-only
version of the phono stage I was interested in (the Audio Electronic
Supply PH-1) costs $500 more than the MM version, which is $600. And
the reason I wanted this phono stage was to see if I liked a tube
effect on my TT without going with tubes for my linestage and amp (I
need SS for this side, since I want to leave them on all the time as
they are hooked up to my computer). Am I wasting my money/effort on
this venture?

2. When I bought my LP12, it came with one un-opened AT OC9 and one
used one. I opened the case of the used OC9 to inspect its condition
and unintentionally touched the side of the needle. I touched it so
lightly that I couldn't even feel it on my finger. However, this was
apparently hard enough to bend the needle to the side at a 20-degree
angle. I then attempted to gently push it back, at which point, the
needle fell off entirely. Is this cart really that fragile or was this
one already on its deathbed? I've never owned a high-end cart before
and don't know if this is normal or not, and I don't intend to risk the
other in an rather expensive experiment to find out.

3. I am very impressed with the overall build quality of the Linn LP12
turntable, with one exception. On the bottom of the wooden outer
plinth, an extremely cheap and flimsy piece of near cardboard-like
fiberboard is held loosely in place by 4 screws, which are screwed
directly into the wooden base itself. This wouldn't be a huge deal, but
every time I want to ajdust something under there (like the spring
tension) I have to remove those screws. There is obviously a limited
number of times I can do this before it falls apart. I'd like this TT
to last the rest of my life, and don't like the idea of killing it a
little every time I adjust something under there. Are there any ways
around this? Could I just remove the underside board altogether?

4. I'd like some kind of heavy isolation base for my LP12, and I've
seen people with ones made out of granite, which I think would look
great on my rack. Where can I order something like this?

Actually, I had some questions regarding speakers and amps too, but
this is probably good for now. Any and all comments are appreciated of
course.

In article .com,
"Bruce C. Miller" wrote:

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my mid-fi system (Carver and
Rotel components, Paradigm monitor speakers) to a higher end system. So
far, I've purchased an ARC linestage and a Linn LP12. Anyhow, I've been
thinking long and hard about how I want this to pan out and could use
any wisdom from you learned audiophiles.

1. Right now I have no phono stage, making my TT useless with just a
linestage. I have an AT OC9 cart, which is an MC cart. I was thinking
about selling this and starting with a Grado Platinum, which is an MM
cart. Seems like most people are using MC carts with their LP12's, tho
I'm not sure why. The reason I wanted to go MM was because the MC-only
version of the phono stage I was interested in (the Audio Electronic
Supply PH-1) costs $500 more than the MM version, which is $600. And
the reason I wanted this phono stage was to see if I liked a tube
effect on my TT without going with tubes for my linestage and amp (I
need SS for this side, since I want to leave them on all the time as
they are hooked up to my computer). Am I wasting my money/effort on
this venture?

I had a Grado Platinum on my LP12 for a while. The review in Listener
magazine pretty much sums up what it sounds like. The next model up is
supposed to be even better. OTOH, a Linn guy didn't like the combo at
all. I replaced mine with a used Arkiv that came my way unexpectedly.

The AT OC9 is well-regarded. I'd use that if it sounds good and you can
get enough gain out of it.

2. When I bought my LP12, it came with one un-opened AT OC9 and one
used one. I opened the case of the used OC9 to inspect its condition
and unintentionally touched the side of the needle. I touched it so
lightly that I couldn't even feel it on my finger. However, this was
apparently hard enough to bend the needle to the side at a 20-degree
angle. I then attempted to gently push it back, at which point, the
needle fell off entirely. Is this cart really that fragile or was this
one already on its deathbed? I've never owned a high-end cart before
and don't know if this is normal or not, and I don't intend to risk the
other in an rather expensive experiment to find out.

Yes, they can be that fragile!

3. I am very impressed with the overall build quality of the Linn LP12
turntable, with one exception. On the bottom of the wooden outer
plinth, an extremely cheap and flimsy piece of near cardboard-like
fiberboard is held loosely in place by 4 screws, which are screwed
directly into the wooden base itself. This wouldn't be a huge deal, but
every time I want to ajdust something under there (like the spring
tension) I have to remove those screws. There is obviously a limited
number of times I can do this before it falls apart. I'd like this TT
to last the rest of my life, and don't like the idea of killing it a
little every time I adjust something under there. Are there any ways
around this? Could I just remove the underside board altogether?

The Trampolinn. Be happy if you didn't pay new price for it.

Linn dealers have a special rack to hold the decks. Maybe something like
that would reduce wear and tear. Or you could leave it off until the
adjustment situation stabilizes.

4. I'd like some kind of heavy isolation base for my LP12, and I've
seen people with ones made out of granite, which I think would look
great on my rack. Where can I order something like this?

According to a Stereophile review, Linn recommends "a small light, rigid
table, e.g., small coffee table" so maybe a heavy base isn't the best
idea. Mine sits on wood in-wall bookshelves with no ill effects.

Actually, I had some questions regarding speakers and amps too, but
this is probably good for now. Any and all comments are appreciated of
course.

You might be in good shape with the ARC and Rotel (or Carver) amp. You
might think about speakers and the room next.

Stephen

MINe 109 said:

I had a Grado Platinum on my LP12 for a while. The review in Listener
magazine pretty much sums up what it sounds like. The next model up is
supposed to be even better. OTOH, a Linn guy didn't like the combo at
all. I replaced mine with a used Arkiv that came my way unexpectedly.


Some desperate soul threw it towards your head, no doubt? ;-)

--
Sander de Waal
" SOA of a KT88? Sufficient. "

In article ,
Sander deWaal wrote:

MINe 109 said:

I had a Grado Platinum on my LP12 for a while. The review in Listener
magazine pretty much sums up what it sounds like. The next model up is
supposed to be even better. OTOH, a Linn guy didn't like the combo at
all. I replaced mine with a used Arkiv that came my way unexpectedly.


Some desperate soul threw it towards your head, no doubt? ;-)

Maddened by upgrade fever!

Stephen

MINe 109 wrote:
In article .com,
"Bruce C. Miller" wrote:

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my mid-fi system (Carver
and
Rotel components, Paradigm monitor speakers) to a higher end
system. So
far, I've purchased an ARC linestage and a Linn LP12. Anyhow, I've
been
thinking long and hard about how I want this to pan out and could
use
any wisdom from you learned audiophiles.

1. Right now I have no phono stage, making my TT useless with just
a
linestage. I have an AT OC9 cart, which is an MC cart. I was
thinking
about selling this and starting with a Grado Platinum, which is an
MM
cart. Seems like most people are using MC carts with their LP12's,
tho
I'm not sure why. The reason I wanted to go MM was because the
MC-only
version of the phono stage I was interested in (the Audio
Electronic
Supply PH-1) costs $500 more than the MM version, which is $600.
And
the reason I wanted this phono stage was to see if I liked a tube
effect on my TT without going with tubes for my linestage and amp
(I
need SS for this side, since I want to leave them on all the time
as
they are hooked up to my computer). Am I wasting my money/effort on
this venture?

I had a Grado Platinum on my LP12 for a while. The review in Listener

magazine pretty much sums up what it sounds like. The next model up
is
supposed to be even better. OTOH, a Linn guy didn't like the combo at

all. I replaced mine with a used Arkiv that came my way unexpectedly.

The AT OC9 is well-regarded. I'd use that if it sounds good and you
can
get enough gain out of it.

Looking at the stats, apparently the OC9's voltage is 0.4mV. I wasn't
aware it was a high-output MC. In that case, I'll may just use it
instead and save some cash.

2. When I bought my LP12, it came with one un-opened AT OC9 and one
used one. I opened the case of the used OC9 to inspect its
condition
and unintentionally touched the side of the needle. I touched it so
lightly that I couldn't even feel it on my finger. However, this
was
apparently hard enough to bend the needle to the side at a
20-degree
angle. I then attempted to gently push it back, at which point, the
needle fell off entirely. Is this cart really that fragile or was
this
one already on its deathbed? I've never owned a high-end cart
before
and don't know if this is normal or not, and I don't intend to risk
the
other in an rather expensive experiment to find out.

Yes, they can be that fragile!

3. I am very impressed with the overall build quality of the Linn
LP12
turntable, with one exception. On the bottom of the wooden outer
plinth, an extremely cheap and flimsy piece of near cardboard-like
fiberboard is held loosely in place by 4 screws, which are screwed
directly into the wooden base itself. This wouldn't be a huge deal,
but
every time I want to ajdust something under there (like the spring
tension) I have to remove those screws. There is obviously a
limited
number of times I can do this before it falls apart. I'd like this
TT
to last the rest of my life, and don't like the idea of killing it
a
little every time I adjust something under there. Are there any
ways
around this? Could I just remove the underside board altogether?

The Trampolinn. Be happy if you didn't pay new price for it.

That's definitely fancy name for a piece of cardboard.

Linn dealers have a special rack to hold the decks. Maybe something
like
that would reduce wear and tear. Or you could leave it off until the
adjustment situation stabilizes.

If it's optional, I'll just go ahead and remove it permanently.
Probably should replace the feet in that case then too.

4. I'd like some kind of heavy isolation base for my LP12, and I've
seen people with ones made out of granite, which I think would look
great on my rack. Where can I order something like this?

According to a Stereophile review, Linn recommends "a small light,
rigid
table, e.g., small coffee table" so maybe a heavy base isn't the best

idea. Mine sits on wood in-wall bookshelves with no ill effects.

My intention was to put in on the top shelf of a 4-tier audio rack. The
rack I am considering is composed of seperate, stackable levels, so
weight on the lower shelves won't necessarily help stabilize the top
shelf. And seeing the spasms the suspension goes through with just a
mild jiggle, I'll probably need something.

Actually, I had some questions regarding speakers and amps too, but
this is probably good for now. Any and all comments are appreciated
of
course.

You might be in good shape with the ARC and Rotel (or Carver) amp.
You
might think about speakers and the room next.

Too late for that. I already sold the amp on eBay the other day. It was
a Carver TFM-35, which I'm sure would have been OK in my new system,
but I always thought it sounded a little strange for some reason. I'm
quite glad to be rid of it.

I'm very happy with my Marantz 7 clone, which I built for a total cost
of less than $100 (big junkbox) but just got a copy of Morgan Jones'
third revision of 'Valve Amplifiers'. I am going to build his phono
stage, which along with a couple of other designs out there is
considered by most experienced listeners to be better than any
commercially manufactured design at any price, and very especially ARC,
c-j, etc. The build cost is high because of the Sowter transformers
used, certainly higher than the BOM cost of a ARC or c-j (not counting
the case!) even if you were buying parts at their volume. I am using
the humble Sumiko Pearl for what it's worth.

The Linn Sondeks are better-than-okay tables but they demand knowledge
of setup and Linn are not helpful. Some dealers are, most are pricks.
They can be bought reasonably used if you know what you are doing and
there are some good mods out there. There is no magic or original
engineering in the Linn, they just copied what works. The publication
of a good book on the Linn table written for techs by a tech, covering
its setup, variations, Linn and third party options, written by someone
who didn't have his toungue up Ivor's ass, nor out to sell THEIR mods
or other table, would be a Big Win for Linn owners.

In article .com,
"Bruce C. Miller" wrote:

MINe 109 wrote:
In article .com,
"Bruce C. Miller" wrote:

carts, Trampolinn

That's definitely fancy name for a piece of cardboard.

Not one of my happier purchases!

... Or you could leave it off until the
adjustment situation stabilizes.

If it's optional, I'll just go ahead and remove it permanently.
Probably should replace the feet in that case then too.

You might be able to sell it although some people do hate them (search
audioasylum for more on that).

4. I'd like some kind of heavy isolation base for my LP12, and I've
seen people with ones made out of granite, which I think would look
great on my rack. Where can I order something like this?

According to a Stereophile review, Linn recommends "a small light,
rigid
table, e.g., small coffee table" so maybe a heavy base isn't the best
idea. Mine sits on wood in-wall bookshelves with no ill effects.

My intention was to put in on the top shelf of a 4-tier audio rack. The
rack I am considering is composed of seperate, stackable levels, so
weight on the lower shelves won't necessarily help stabilize the top
shelf. And seeing the spasms the suspension goes through with just a
mild jiggle, I'll probably need something.

If you're not used to a suspended table that jiggle can be a shock, but
the it should calm down quickly. The height of the stack could be a
factor, too. I've used mine on a similar rack and didn't have any
problems other than a springy floor.

Rigid may be better than massive for support.

Actually, I had some questions regarding speakers and amps too, but
this is probably good for now. Any and all comments are appreciated
of course.

You might be in good shape with the ARC and Rotel (or Carver) amp.
You might think about speakers and the room next.

Too late for that. I already sold the amp on eBay the other day. It was
a Carver TFM-35, which I'm sure would have been OK in my new system,
but I always thought it sounded a little strange for some reason. I'm
quite glad to be rid of it.

I've heard good things about Rotel, so you probably are in good shape.
Enjoy what you've got, and when you think about speakers, come back and
we'll try to talk you into Quads (or Maggies, or Parasound Active, or
....).

Stephen