what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a 6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

I use two-step epoxy (like J.B. Weld). I don't know if that's the best
choice (under heat) but it seems to work OK. I have my doubts about the
efficacy of super glue . . . the stuff never works too well on most of the
stuff I use it on, except fingers.

From: "arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.tubes
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 11:14:09 -0500
Subject: need tube glue recommendation

what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a 6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

"arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com wrote

what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off
of a 6550
power tube?

Worth looking in the archives for this one, cowboy. Some convincing
advice has been given on this subject by folk who may no longer be
around.

I would try the kind of silicon gasket intended for hot places like
cylinder heads, because I have some. It is heat proof and conducts
heat effectively if in a thin layer. Being elastic and very
moisture-proof, it is not prone to brittle fracture as a result of
heat cycling, and doesn't fall apart in humid conditions like
superglue can. Bonding is good enough if surfaces are clean. Might
be hard to run it into a small gap though. In that case I would use
some thin, cyano-acrylate based gasket cement that runs into gaps.
Same principle as super-glue but waterproof and elastic.

Someone was saying they have a special tool for removing bases.
Presumably they have a special glue for replacing them?

cheers, Ian

I'm afraid not.
I tried hight temperature cyanocrylate but no good results,
this kind of glue isn't structural enough.

The result i had is with high temperature glue/cement used
to stick oven joint. It's a kind of silicate glue, easy to use
1100°C resist, and very cheap.

Stev

I'm afraid not.
I tried hight temperature cyanocrylate but no good results,
this kind of glue isn't structural enough.

The result i had is with high temperature glue/cement used
to stick oven joint. It's a kind of silicate glue, easy to use
1100°C resist, and very cheap.

Stev

"arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com a écrit dans le message de
news
what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a
6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

I have used JB Weld before and never had one come loose again.
It's cheap, easy and you can get it almost any hardware store or auto parts.
Don't use the 5 min stuff...but the normal stuff that takes a day to cure.

I'm happy with the results.

Matt


"arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com wrote in message
news
what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a
6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

I use Loctite 406 Prism. Comes in 26ml bottle and if kept in fridge lasts
a long time . Easy to apply and to wipe off excess.

John
"arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com wrote in message
news
what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a
6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

Two component epoxy glue is heat stable and similar in chemical nature to
the plastic base itself. It has good electrical properties and it is not
affected by humidity. I use it for these minor fixes and I find it's OK,
but the problem is how to hold the tubes FIRMLY in place while it cures (24
hrs minimum).

Ordinary cyano-acrylate glue does not stick on glass.

Ciao

Fabio


"arizona cowboy" cacheoverflowATyahoo.com ha scritto nel messaggio
news
what is the glue favored by RATs for a tube base that has come off of a
6550
power tube?

I am thinking super glue, or is there a better choice?


cowboy

"Fabio Berutti" wrote in message . ..
Two component epoxy glue is heat stable and similar in chemical nature to
the plastic base itself. It has good electrical properties and it is not
affected by humidity. I use it for these minor fixes and I find it's OK,
but the problem is how to hold the tubes FIRMLY in place while it cures (24
hrs minimum).


My experience with epoxy is primarily with boatbuilding and
woodworking. The best stuff is from Gougeon Brothers (WEST System)
for that purpose. They specifically recommend the use of heat to free
fasteners in epoxy. For example, if you've bedded a screw or bolt in
epoxy, heat it for extraction. The adhesive will probably be fine for
tubes, BUT only if you don't stress the base/envelope joint when it's
hot. Gougeon Bros. offer good technical support and would probably
have sound advice if you check out their web site for a link.

Chris Campbell