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#1
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I am thinking of buying Yamaha HTR5790
receiver(http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/HTIB/HTR5790.htm). Now I've been looking at 5.1 Small Klipsch Bookshelf Speaker(http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/bu.../1094584832662) and was wondering if these speakers can handle the Yamaha HTR5790 receiver. I was also thinking of getting the Klipsch ProMedia Ultra 5.1(satellite speakers, http://www.techforless.com/cgi-bin/tech4less/PROMEDIAULTRA51?mv_pc=bizrate!!b_id=18), but I thinking these speakers would get blown if I put the receiver volume up to high. Also, in general how good are Klipsch speakers? Can I get any other speakers cheaper that are just as good? Thanks, Michael |
#2
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You might want to also look at the HSU Ventriloquist
(http://www.hsustore.com/vt12.html) coupled with an acclaimed HSU sub. They knock $100 of a package deal so with their STF-2, (http://www.hsustore.com/stf2.html) it would be $599 plus shipping. The Ventriloquist is actually a 6.1 system that is also designed to be connected to a 5.1 receiver. |
#3
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HTR5790 receiver only puts out 110 watts a channel, would it be
overkill to get STF-2 and get STF-1 instead? |
#5
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don't look, listen. That's how you should be deciding which speakers
to get. Listen to different speakers in your price range and then pick the ones that sound best to you. I have been. I've listened to the Klipsch bigger speakers Best Buy had setup which sounded outstanding but to expensive for me. However, Best Buy couldn't hook up the smaller ones because they were closing for the night. I think I will go down tomorrow to listen to those. I've listened to some Sony satellite speakers that sounded pretty good for small speakers, however it was not playing surround sound. I'm also kind of iffy when it comes to front satellite speakers with music. Any speaker can be damaged if you do something stupid. If you listen, you will not damage your speakers. Slowly turn up the volume. If the sound starts to distort, that's your clue that either speakers or the a amplifier are at or near their limits. Turn the level down a bit. This is true. However, I don't want to listen to something at the store that sounds good but after bringing it home to find out I can only turn the volume up 50% of the way before it starts to distort. That is why I was looking at the Klipsch Surround Speaker and it said 50 Watts Maximum Continuous (200 Watts Peak) Am I right in thinking if my receiver puts out 110 watts per speaker with the volume up all the way, this should be enough because the surround speakers will never have continuous voltage this high? Front speakers have these specs 75 Watts Maximum Continuous (300 Watts Peak) Power Handling Once again, the receiver i'm getting puts out 110 watts per speaker, if I listen to music on these front speakers, most likely I will blow them if the volume is up all the way for a long time? I am kind of new to audio so just want some advise on how likely you could blow these Klipsch speakers with the Yamaha HTR5790 |
#6
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On 16 Feb 2005 11:18:00 -0800, "BravesCharm"
wrote: This is true. However, I don't want to listen to something at the store that sounds good but after bringing it home to find out I can only turn the volume up 50% of the way before it starts to distort. Keep in mind that you ned to consider the fact that different volume controls have different "ratios" between lowest and highest volume levels. An 11:00 position on one receiver/integrated amp's volume control can be the equivalent of 2:00 on another. To me, you'll have better control if the volume control is set up to require you to "turn it up". IOW, you have less flexibility in an amp whose volume control reaches max level sooner than later, if this makes any sense. |
#7
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"BravesCharm" wrote in message
oups.com... HTR5790 receiver only puts out 110 watts a channel, would it be overkill to get STF-2 and get STF-1 instead? Both of those subs have their own power supplies built in so they don't rely on the receiver's power. I would get as powerful a sub as you can afford. The receiver you're looking at has plenty of power for virtually any speaker system you might be considering. The only caveat might be those speaker systems that have a low impedance (4 ohm) and that you can easily ascertain. Most Home Theater speaker systems will be 8 ohm not 4. Others have rightly suggested that you try to listen to the speakers you are considering preferably connected to your receiver. In practice that can be hard to do since the best sounding speakers in a store's listening room may not be the best sounding in your own room at home. Ideally, whomever you buy from should have a liberal return policy (HSU's is 30 day). I just replaced my Bose Accoustimass system with the Ventriloquist setup. I already had one of HSU's older tube subwoofers with separate power supply and I am very happy with the results. |
#8
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![]() "BravesCharm" wrote in message oups.com... Am I right in thinking if my receiver puts out 110 watts per speaker with the volume up all the way, this should be enough because the surround speakers will never have continuous voltage this high? You're not really thinking in the right terms. It really doesn't have to do with "the volume up all the way". Think of it like this. When you turn the volume knob, you're increasing or decreasing the input signal. So first of all, it depends on how high the input signal is. It is higher on some CDs than others, and higher in some spots on the CD than others. Your amplifier is then asked to increase the signal coming from your volume knob. It either can or can't do that. If it can't, it will send a clipped off, distorted signal to your speakers. This is not necessarily going to be damaging to your speakers. It's kind of like pushing your gas pedal down. You can put it to the floor, but your car will only go so fast as a maximmum no matter how hard you push that gas pedal. However, your engine is not going to have a problem with it, unless you're redlining. Likewise, your speakers will not have a problem with your amp signal unless it's starting to burn the voice coil or something. So to answer your question, with the volume all the way up, your amp might be putting out 1 watt and it might be putting out 150 watts. And your speakers can handle being driven too hard for short periods or bursts without damage, even though *they* might sound distorted. It takes time for the voice coils to heat up and cool down. The more juice you pump into them, the more quickly they will overheat and the longer it takes to cool before they can handle the next burst. |
#9
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In many cases this is not really true, at least in human terms, i.e.
some voice coils that can get hot very fast. Other types of tweeter such as piezo, ribbons, et al, can have little or no "give", they go from live to dead very suddenly. The only sure cure is to purchase speakers positively rated for the peak SPL you want , provide sufficient power to never clip, figure (measure) total system power gain, and play back (in the case of digital) such that "digital zero" can never exceed this level. However this isn't practical. The common sense approach is to provide plenty of power, use amps with soft clipping characteristics, and don't listen too ****in' loud. And don't buy speakers you can't afford to put new drivers in or have them reconed/rebuilt should you blow one. One big point in favor of Klipsch and Altec classic horns. |
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