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#1
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Many High End products are now only available in either 115 or 230 VAC
versions despite the fact it's so much easier to build a multi-voltage transformer as has been common for fifty years. It's a way to further enable their Euro distributors to rear-end their native clientele, is what I have discovered. Being a DIYer by nature this doesnt bother me, but what it does do is make it harder to run your stuff on 230V US power, meaning two hots and a ground. That's balanced power, and much cheaper than expensive center tapped transformers giving 60-0-60. When my listening room was refurbed I had them put in air conditioner outlets which they did, although they didn't quite believe why I wanted them. Why the Stereophile/TAS crowd isn't touting the benefits of the common air conditioner outlet...oh yeah, no high markup there. |
#2
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#4
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#5
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lobster, long piglet, or what have you.
Cook on low for 15 minutes, then allow it to set for at least 15 minutes more. Serve over steamed rice; this dish is very impressive! Stuffed Cabbage Rolls Babies really can be found under a cabbage leaf - or one can arrange for ground beef to be found there instead. 8 large cabbage leaves 1 lb. lean ground newborn human filets, or ground chuck Onions peppers celery garlic soy sauce salt pepper, etc Olive oil breadcrumbs Tomato Gravy (see index) Boil the cabbage leaves for 2 minutes to soften. In skillet, brown the meat in a little olive oil, then add onions, peppers, and celery (all chopped finely) and season well. Place in a large bowl and cool. Add seasoned breadcrumbs and a little of the tomato gravy, enough to make the mixture pliable. Divide the stuffing among the cabbage leaves then roll. Place seam down in a baking pan. Ladle tomato gravy on top, and bake at 325° for 30 - 45 minutes. Umbilical Cordon Bleu Nothing is so beautiful as the bond between mother and child, so why not consume it? Children or chicken breasts will work wonderfully also. 4 whole umbilical chords (or baby breasts, or chicken breasts) 4 thin slices of smoked ham, and Gruyere cheese Flour eggwash (milk and eggs) seasoned bread crumbs 1 onion minced salt pepper butter olive oil Pound the breasts flat (parboil first if using umbilical cords so they won?t be tough). Place a slice of ham and cheese on each, along with some mince |
#6
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![]() MINe 109 wrote: In article .com, snip Because, as you point out, manufacturers don't offer 230v as an option, there's little reason to mention it. Unless deleted as a customer control tactic the majority of normal equipment has a split primary power transformer, making 230V balanced operation easy as long as the mains switch breaks both hot side lines. The NEC was actually amended six or seven years ago to enable recording studios to put in 115V balanced power-60-0-60 secondaries off a big balancing transformer. However most buildings in the US except houses built in the thirties or earlier have balanced power already in the form of the incoming hot lines off the "pole pig". Ranges and electric dryers have a four wire plug (or are hardwired) with two hots, one neutral and one earth ground. The common air conditioner outlet is a three wire connectiion with two hots and earth ground but no neutral. US electric dryers and ranges use both 110 and 220 for temperature control purposes on their resistive elements and usually 110V on the timers and often on the motors (so they have parts commonality with gas dryers with 110 only available). 230V balanced power IMO is such a cost effective and simple upgrade that it should be used as a magazine embarrassment tactic when dealing with people who plug the magazines. |
#7
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#8
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![]() MINe 109 wrote: In article .com, wrote: 230V balanced power IMO is such a cost effective and simple upgrade that it should be used as a magazine embarrassment tactic when dealing with people who plug the magazines. Could a US store legally sell me a Euro-spec amp with an air-conditioner cord? If the unit is a multi-voltage unit with a jumper or switch it's just a matter of move the switch. If the unit requires rewiring you could just do it although the warranty may be affected. If it dies you could always just put it back before sending it in. I know of no manufacturers that really seal their units effectively (safetywire and lead seal or cal tag) but some may. What a store can _legally_ do depends on the state, I think, in the US. But much high end equipment is not UL type certified anyway and I don't think that's required. I think it's much more a question of what the manufacturer will tolerate of its dealers. Keep in mind that thanks to the insane howling of medical and general aviation manufacturers product liability has become a national obsession, and it's a fact that some very stupid people buy some very expensive equipment. Also, they have started using voltage and frequency as a customer control tactic, as has been discussed here before. The overseas distributor believes it has a right granted by whatever the local deity is to charge whatever its market can be made to bear and only customer refusal to deal with them can correct this-although in some cases they have the turgid member of the state to make them profitable via fiat. The local Customs may bar private import, or local type certifications may make it impossible to resell non-authorized-sourced boxes. |
#9
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Case in point would be the counter-example provided by a highly
inexpensive DVD player that I recently dissasembled and examined. It did not use a multi-voltage transformer as such, but instead used a relatively complex switchmode power supply that automatically adapted itself to work with a wide variety of power line voltages and frequencies. Only the detachable power cord needed to match the wall outlets in whatever country it was used in. This part is routinely available in various styles from a large number of third-party sources. It's a way to further enable their Euro distributors to rear-end their native clientele, is what I have discovered. It has been reported that at least one high end vendor has added circuitry that monitors not only the power line voltage but also the power line frequency. This circuitry is tailored to the country in which the equipment is distributed. Thus, simply matching the voltage will not enable the equipment to be used in some other country that uses a different power line frequency. Ironically, the equipment in question is said to be basically very conservatively designed. Therefore it would otherwise not be very important that the power line frequency be carefully matched. Being a DIYer by nature this doesnt bother me, but what it does do is make it harder to run your stuff on 230V US power, meaning two hots and a ground. That's balanced power, and much cheaper than expensive center tapped transformers giving 60-0-60. When my listening room was refurbed I had them put in air conditioner outlets which they did, although they didn't quite believe why I wanted them. In the US 230 volt wiring is usually reserved for use with very high powered amplifiers. 230 volt power outlets have special connectors. I presume that you modified European equipment accordingly. In my case I just used the primary windings appropriately. My preamp had a 120V only power xfmr but I have the 220 and 110 outlets next to each other which has worked fine. I thought it might lead to higher noise but it has worked out well. If the noise had been higher I would have got a big toroidal autoformer and wired it up for 2:1 stepdown symetrically, or got off my ass and put a 220 transformer in my preamp which is homemade anyway (it's a Marantz 7 clone with attention paid to Walt Jung's POOGE article in Audio Amateur.) I have never operated my power amp on 120V long term so can provide no detailed A/B....but it surely can't be worse. My CD player is a cheap one that does 120/240 automatically (switchmode supply) but I did put a jack in the back for earth ground. It has a two pin 220 cord (now!) with no ground now which is probably not UL acceptable. I would not do this if the equipment it drives were not user repairable. Why the Stereophile/TAS crowd isn't touting the benefits of the common air conditioner outlet...oh yeah, no high markup there. Why would you be surprised that vendors who are already devoted to increased profit margins, take additional steps to further increase their profits. I'm more disgusted customers are putting up with it. |
#10
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Being a DIYer by nature this doesnt bother me, but what it does do is make it harder to run your stuff on 230V US power, meaning two hots and a ground. I don't get it. Can someone explain how this can be used? I don't understand how it's even an option with products meant to be plugged into 120v. |
#11
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![]() jeffc wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Being a DIYer by nature this doesnt bother me, but what it does do is make it harder to run your stuff on 230V US power, meaning two hots and a ground. I don't get it. Can someone explain how this can be used? I don't understand how it's even an option with products meant to be plugged into 120v. Okay, let's start at the start and take it in baby steps. The standard household socket in the US, from the early 1900s on, gave 110-12x volts AC, 60 Hertz. There were two prongs on the plug, and two wires from the fuse box. They were off the secondary of the transformer that was on the power pole. One of those was hooked to earth ground and was called "neutral" because it was at or close to ground potential. The other was called "hot" because it was the wire that would shock you if you touched it while grounded. In Europe they used the same arrangement except at roughly twice that voltage. One line is hot and one is neutral, or in Brit parlance "earthy". Then they all added a ground wire, a direct earth ground that didn't go to the fuse box, for safety. That was the three prong plug. You could grab two of the three and feel nothing, or in the case of the neutral maybe a slight tingle. The third would zap, maybe even kill, you. With me so far?? In the US, we started using stuff like electric central heat, window air conditioners, clothes dryers, and ranges and the power companies figured they could use a center tapped earthed primary on the transformer on the pole-the "pole pig"-and bring in two hot wires. Either one to neutral, or ground, would give you the standard voltage and the two together would give you twice the voltage. That's why there are window air conditioners for "220" and "110". Inside the house, half the "110" outlets are off one hot wire and the others are off the other one. You could find two outlets in the same room and if they were off different hot wires, run a wire off each one and get 220. If we are not on the same page now, STOP. Get a copy of a good ELECTRICAL book and "do the math". It really isn't that hard to understand. Fat smelly guys with GED's and their ass hanging half out their pants do this every day. Okay, as you (hopefully) surmised, there are a whole range of plugs and sockets used in the U.S., not even getting into overseas, domestic three phase, or DC (at one time there were residences with DC power in the US-they sold DC stuff in New York well into the rock and roll era because upscale apartments sometimes didn't convert until the mid 1960's!). The "220 air conditioner plug" has two hots and earth ground. Range and Dryer plugs have four prongs-both hots, neutral, and ground. Now, back to the amplifier (or whatever). Again historically, it had a power transformer, which took in the line (or "mains" in Britese) voltage and provided the varied voltages the unit needed. If the unit was to be used on power lines of different voltages, you had to have a different transformer. In the 1950s, when cars had tailfins and actresses had figures, they realized that if they wound the primary properly and brought out the leads, they could use the winding in parallel for 110 and in series for 220, which was the voltage in other countries. (Actually there were a bunch of voltages, so they had taps and separate windings, but one group of voltages was in the 100-130 range and the other from 220-240 or so.) That meant users could go from country to country and use any voltage, sometimes by flipping a switch, sometimes moving a jumper, occasionally you'd have to resolder the wires inside which was no big deal. For the last forty or so years, most every piece of electronic equipment designed to be interfaced with other electronics has had such a power supply. So when it was discovered that running power with two hot lines equally spaced from ground-balanced power- had big advantages from noise and EMI standpoints, American users were in good shape-they already had balanced power at their fuse box and a power supply that could use it. Only no one told them this. Pro studios put in expensive redistribution transformers ("power baluns") to give 60-0-60 power, maybe because their expensive Fairchild compressors and Pultec EQ boxes had 110-only transformers. Maybe they just didn't think about it. Nonetheless balanced power was a big noise control step. If your hi-fi amp has a linear power supply designed for multivoltage use, you ought to be able to run off the 220V "air conditioner outlet". And usually you can. However, in order to enable overseas distributors to have unnatural and probably painful relations with their captive customer base, certain High End manufacturers have went back to single voltage power supplies, either a power transformer with one primary winding or a switchmode supply suitable for one voltage. If a salesman tries to sell you a line cable for more than a few dollars, especially if it has the standard IEC connector, on the basis of improved sound and does not discuss the benefits of Balanced Power Operation, it's a good bet he's a whore for commissions. If a house is wired from pole pig to fuse box to power outlet with regular old wire, how is a relatively short length of high dollar wire going to make a difference? |
#12
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Okay, let's start at the start and take it in baby steps. Thank you for the explanation... Inside the house, half the "110" outlets are off one hot wire and the others are off the other one. You could find two outlets in the same room and if they were off different hot wires, run a wire off each one and get 220. But they have to intentionally run both hot leads to any outlet that needs 220? For the last forty or so years, most every piece of electronic equipment designed to be interfaced with other electronics has had such a power supply. I didn't know that. So when it was discovered that running power with two hot lines equally spaced from ground-balanced power- had big advantages from noise and EMI standpoints I didn't know that either. If your hi-fi amp has a linear power supply designed for multivoltage use, you ought to be able to run off the 220V "air conditioner outlet". So you are suggesting we do, either by switching the switch, or by opening the box if necessary? If a house is wired from pole pig to fuse box to power outlet with regular old wire, how is a relatively short length of high dollar wire going to make a difference? I've never really believed it could. |
#13
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![]() "Marc Phillips" wrote in message ... Agreed. I learned about dedicated outlets by reading Stereophile. JA and J-10 have always been huge proponents of them. I've put in two of them, and there's a huge improvement. The first one cost me $350, because I had it done by a professional. The second one was installed by a friend and myself, and we did it for less than $50, and that included the hospital-grade outlet. Best $50 I ever spent on audio. What was the difference exactly? |
#14
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jeffc said:
"Marc Phillips" wrote in message ... Agreed. I learned about dedicated outlets by reading Stereophile. JA and J-10 have always been huge proponents of them. I've put in two of them, and there's a huge improvement. The first one cost me $350, because I had it done by a professional. The second one was installed by a friend and myself, and we did it for less than $50, and that included the hospital-grade outlet. Best $50 I ever spent on audio. What was the difference exactly? Two big differences, really. First, everything was much quieter. I could turn the volume way up on the amp and here much less noise. Secondly, I had the problem of my stereo sounding better during certain times of the day than others (in other words, peak usage hours). A dedicated outlet greatly reduced these inconsistencies. Boon |
#15
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Is it OK to mix and match the voltages on your equipment, or is the benefit
realized when all links in the chain are 220v? |
#16
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![]() "jeffc" wrote in message news ![]() wrote in message oups.com... Being a DIYer by nature this doesnt bother me, but what it does do is make it harder to run your stuff on 230V US power, meaning two hots and a ground. I don't get it. Can someone explain how this can be used? I don't understand how it's even an option with products meant to be plugged into 120v. Of course, I am aware of the 120/240 v switch on many electronic units. I didn't realize what you were talking about might be that simple in some cases. |
#17
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#18
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So why don't you manufacture some stupendously expensive **** and make
money? Seems like something to celebrate, to me. |
#19
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#21
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![]() S888Wheel wrote: From: Ron Date: 12/30/2004 6:43 PM Pacific Standard Time Message-id: On 30 Dec 2004 14:47:55 -0800, wrote: So why don't you manufacture some stupendously expensive **** and make money? Seems like something to celebrate, to me. Actually, the field is quite crowded. Breaking in won't be easy. You may be integrested in a recent Stereophile review of a $350,000 powert amp. Performance and specs were mediocre to poor. Had it cost, say, $1000, it would have been pooh poohed by the venerable reviewer. Did he tell you this or did you read his mind? To most of us it's obvious that the OP was speculating. Sorry that this shading of meaning flew over your head, Scott. Since it cost a seriously obscene (not to say, ridiculous) amount of money, the reviewer went out of his way to justify the price... Or maybe he liked the sound. Sighted evaluation, right? ;-) I read Stereophile for amusement and this was one of their best efforts, right next to their review of the Hacro $25,000 (or was it $24,000?) amp whose silence (so they claimed) was better than the silence of other, less expensive amps.. All this talk about prices of amps and yet you waste your money on a magazine you don't like. Somehow most of us perceive a tiny difference between Stereophile's $12.97 subscription price and the $25,000 price of a pair of Halcro monoblocks. Apparently $24,987.03 means nothing to an award-winning Hollywood makeup artist. Well then good for you, Scott! It explains why you were so willing to waste your money on sueing me for libel, I guess. |
#22
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![]() Arny Krueger wrote: S888Wheel wrote: From: Ron Date: 12/30/2004 6:43 PM Pacific Standard Time Message-id: On 30 Dec 2004 14:47:55 -0800, wrote: So why don't you manufacture some stupendously expensive **** and make money? Seems like something to celebrate, to me. Actually, the field is quite crowded. Breaking in won't be easy. You may be integrested in a recent Stereophile review of a $350,000 powert amp. Performance and specs were mediocre to poor. Had it cost, say, $1000, it would have been pooh poohed by the venerable reviewer. Did he tell you this or did you read his mind? To most of us it's obvious that the OP was speculating. Sorry that this shading of meaning flew over your head, Scott. Obviously he was speculating. He stated it as fact though. I guess my sarcasm towards his attitude went right over your head. Every time you try to look smart you end up looking stupid. Since it cost a seriously obscene (not to say, ridiculous) amount of money, the reviewer went out of his way to justify the price... Or maybe he liked the sound. Sighted evaluation, right? ;-) Yeah. So? Didn't you evaluate your speakers that way? I read Stereophile for amusement and this was one of their best efforts, right next to their review of the Hacro $25,000 (or was it $24,000?) amp whose silence (so they claimed) was better than the silence of other, less expensive amps.. All this talk about prices of amps and yet you waste your money on a magazine you don't like. Somehow most of us perceive a tiny difference between Stereophile's $12.97 subscription price and the $25,000 price of a pair of Halcro monoblocks. Does that mean 12.97 spent on something one doesn't like isn't a waste of money? Once again your attempt to make a logical argument leaves you looking foolish. Apparently $24,987.03 means nothing to an award-winning Hollywood makeup artist. Well then good for you, Scott! No, it means something even to this award winning makeup artist. Probably not as much as it does to a loser living his life on Usenet (that would be you if you didn't get it) but it still is a meaningful amount of money to me. It explains why you were so willing to waste your money on sueing me for libel, I guess. It didn't seem like a waste of money until I fully realized just how small an impact your words have on the world. Then it was clear to me that it was a waste of money. Funny that you would take so much pride in being so unimportant. Scott Wheeler |
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