Hi,

I've just installed an Alpine 9813 that supports ipersonalise.
I can figure out the time correction stuff but not how to
configure the paramertic equalisation and cross over control.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to sort this
stuff out ?


Thanks

Paul;

The manual gives a pretty decent description and instructions last I
checked. Do you know about what frequencies you were wanting to set
them? or is that what you were wanting to know?

Brandonb


Paul Waine wrote:

Hi,

I've just installed an Alpine 9813 that supports ipersonalise.
I can figure out the time correction stuff but not how to
configure the paramertic equalisation and cross over control.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to sort this
stuff out ?


Thanks

Paul;

I guess that I wanted to know more about effects clicking the
buttons and setting the graphs will have on the sound !

Below is my somewhat basic understanding of how these things work . . . .

If I use the left hand control and move the graph line down does this mean
a
lower overall sound level will be sent to the speaker ?

If I use the bottom buttons to move the slope on the graph along
does this affect the frequency at which the signal is blocked to the
speaker ?

Do the angled button then effect the range at which the frequency is blocked
so that lower frequencies will be at a lower volume and higher ones at a
higher
one with a smooth transition between the two ?

Is a sharper gradient better or worse than a shallow one ?

Is there a good rule to follow on the db/Oct drop ?

Thanks

Paul;


i.e what happens if I set things up a ceratin way, what level of
"Brandon Buckner" wrote in message
...
The manual gives a pretty decent description and instructions last I
checked. Do you know about what frequencies you were wanting to set
them? or is that what you were wanting to know?

Brandonb


Paul Waine wrote:

Hi,

I've just installed an Alpine 9813 that supports ipersonalise.
I can figure out the time correction stuff but not how to
configure the paramertic equalisation and cross over control.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to sort this
stuff out ?


Thanks

Paul;

"Paul Waine" wrote in
:

I guess that I wanted to know more about effects clicking the
buttons and setting the graphs will have on the sound !

Below is my somewhat basic understanding of how these things work . .
. .

If I use the left hand control and move the graph line down does this
mean a
lower overall sound level will be sent to the speaker ?

Correct. You would use this if any the front/rear/sub was
disproportionately louder/softer than the rest.


If I use the bottom buttons to move the slope on the graph along
does this affect the frequency at which the signal is blocked to the
speaker ?

Correct. This is the frequency where the dropoff would begin.


Do the angled button then effect the range at which the frequency is
blocked so that lower frequencies will be at a lower volume and higher
ones at a higher one with a smooth transition between the two ?

Correct.


Is a sharper gradient better or worse than a shallow one ?

Is there a good rule to follow on the db/Oct drop ?

Here's where it gets trickier and it would really help to know the
ratings on the speakers. I saw in your other post that you're using
stock car speakers. This makes it tough, because you'll be guessing at
their specs. Not to mention that stock speakers almost always suck, but
that's probably a different thread. For now, assume that they won't
handle much low end.

The reason that knowing the speaker specs is important is for the setting
of that dropoff. For example suppose you have a sub and it handles some
upper frequencies at the top of it's range that your midranges also could
handle at the bottom of their range. You need to decide the balance as
to which speaker will handle most of that overlap. You could make the
dropoff slopes shallow so that the midranges handle some of that range
and the sub handles some of it as well. Or you may decide to let the sub
handle the entire range so in that case you'd make the dropoff steeper
and/or move the crossover point higher for the midranges. Same thing for
the overlapping range between the mids and the tweeters.

But it's obvious that without knowing the speaker specs, it's all
guesswork. So if you're going to use the stock speakers, the best advice
I can think of is to take advantage of the i-personalise system and burn
multiple crossover configurations for various cutoffs points and dropoff
slopes. Then try each of them with a piece of music that you know well
and hear which one sounds best to you (always at the same volume and
listening conditions). Time consuming, but without specs it may be the
best you can do.

If you don't have a sub, then the stock midranges have to handle the
entire low end anyway, so that will make the experiment a little simpler
- you'll just need to find the lowest cutoff point that still prevents
bass distortion. But I'd strongly suggest replacing the stock speakers
first and getting a sub at some point if you don't already have one.



Thanks

Paul;


i.e what happens if I set things up a ceratin way, what level of
"Brandon Buckner" wrote in message
...
The manual gives a pretty decent description and instructions last I
checked. Do you know about what frequencies you were wanting to set
them? or is that what you were wanting to know?

Brandonb


Paul Waine wrote:

Hi,

I've just installed an Alpine 9813 that supports ipersonalise.
I can figure out the time correction stuff but not how to
configure the paramertic equalisation and cross over control.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to sort this
stuff out ?


Thanks

Paul;

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm only using the stock speakers in the rear of the car, as I can't find
anything else
to fit. These are "cheap" paper dual cone speakers of unknown
specification.
They seem to buzz if the volume is turned up above 15.
I guess that I'll need to reduce the level that is sent to these and reduce
the
low end that is sent also.

The front speakers are infinity REF605CS spec says 54Hz-20kHz

The sub will be a Pioneer TS-WX105A, I have to go for a small sub as the
car
is an MGF. This is a 2 seater convertible similar in size to a Mazda Miata
in the
US. Spec on this is 40-180 Hz. I will get this in the next few days unless
there are any better options.

Would the best setup be to have the frequency drop off so there is a degree
of overlap between the bottom end of the front components and the
top end of the sub.

I guess that the best option will be trial and error with a wireless laptop
and
cd burner sat in the car trying out various different combinations.


Thanks again


Paul;

"Paul" wrote in
:

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm only using the stock speakers in the rear of the car, as I can't
find anything else
to fit. These are "cheap" paper dual cone speakers of unknown
specification.
They seem to buzz if the volume is turned up above 15.
I guess that I'll need to reduce the level that is sent to these and
reduce the
low end that is sent also.

The front speakers are infinity REF605CS spec says 54Hz-20kHz

The sub will be a Pioneer TS-WX105A, I have to go for a small sub as
the car
is an MGF. This is a 2 seater convertible similar in size to a Mazda
Miata in the
US. Spec on this is 40-180 Hz. I will get this in the next few days
unless there are any better options.

Would the best setup be to have the frequency drop off so there is a
degree of overlap between the bottom end of the front components and
the top end of the sub.

I guess that the best option will be trial and error with a wireless
laptop and
cd burner sat in the car trying out various different combinations.


Thanks again


Paul;

Normally I'd suggest to let the sub handle most if not all of the
overlap, but I have the successor model to your Infinity's so I happen to
know that they handle bass quite well. So go ahead and overlap them.
Definitely reduce the volume going to those rear stock speakers and just
use them for fill. By that I mean so the rear speakers are merely
"felt" but not "heard".

Another i-personalize tip: make a bunch of different configuration files
and burn them all to one CD. When you load it into the deck, you can
choose which file you want to use. Of course give each a meaningful name
so you don't mix them up.