Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular 2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal, to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency, and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

Check these out:
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_pr...&CategoryID=14
Have you considered using Dynamat (or the like) for the noise?



"Tim Louquet" wrote in message
k.net...
Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular 2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal, to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at
moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work
truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on
average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency, and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

Phoenix gold titanium eleite 3 way set
http://www.phoenixgold.com/tielitecomp.html

They are simply amazing I have heard alot of high end but I could not
believe these things


--
Gmac
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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View this thread: http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...?threadid=9152

The truck has a "sound deadening package" installed from the factory which
essentially insulates the engine compartment, but it does not insulate the
doors/interior. I will most likely try to Dynamat the doors to help with
the noise issues.

--
Tim




"Sonoman" wrote in message
.. .
Check these out:
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_pr...&CategoryID=14
Have you considered using Dynamat (or the like) for the noise?



"Tim Louquet" wrote in message
k.net...
Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular
2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal,
to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at
moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work
truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on
average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency,
and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

"Tim Louquet"
wrote:


The truck has a "sound deadening package" installed from the factory which
essentially insulates the engine compartment, but it does not insulate the
doors/interior. I will most likely try to Dynamat the doors to help with
the noise issues.

--
Tim

There's not much gold to be mined there. In 1993 I tested a 2-step Dynamat
installation on my new Z-28.

The 1st step, all work was done by a Dynamat recommended car restoration
service, included a layer in the doors and a layer on the floor from the
firewall tothe rear hatch area.

The 2nd "Pro-Install" step put a 2nd layer on the areas included in the first
step and also a layer on the entire hatch area. Total cost to Car Stereo Review
was $1600.

I made three complete sets of measurements (before and after each step) at
idle, and 35-mph and 55-mph on smooth and rain-grooved pavement on the same
stretches of road, same days of the week at the same time of day. Each set
included an average of 5 runs eachand covered the full spectrum (not just a
single SPL reading) with a MLSSA acoustic analyzer.

The resultant noise reduction? Nada except for a slight reduction in tire whine
in rain-grooved pavement.

Why? There's just not enough mass to significantly attenuate noise. The obvious
stuff like open holes and the like have been attended to at the factory. If
you're luck you might find through sound leaks in your doors. But you just need
to seal those, you don't need Dynamat for that.

Window/door weather/wind seals are usually a better place to look. Also make
sure your vehicle has a hood liner but it sounds like it already does.

Nousaine...as in Tom Nousaine?

I remember the issue you're talking about and I've always defended my
position that Dynamat does nothing for road noise...but most people think
otherwise.

However, good Dynamating (or the generic equivalet) and/or a visco-elastic
spray works excellent to reduce vibrations and resonations in the door
cavity. In essence, if done correctly, this will be the next-best thing to
an actual speaker "enclosure" made out of your door. I highly recommend it
for those who spend the money for any high-end speaker. Otherwise, you're
wasting your money.

And I would totally recommend Dynaudio. Their model 360 set is a 3-way with
an 8-inch mid-woofer, 3-inch midrange, and 1-inch tweeter. Mount it any way
you want, but my preferred method is for the tweets and midranges in kick
panels and the 8s in the doors. Keep in mind that your other components
need to be fairly high-end as well, to truly enjoy the speakers' full
potential.

http://www.dynaudiona.com/products/car/car1.htm

And Tom...if that's you...I've been a LONG time fan of your reviews. Keep
up the good work!

Tony



--


What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact
"Nousaine" wrote in message
...
"Tim Louquet"
wrote:


The truck has a "sound deadening package" installed from the factory
which
essentially insulates the engine compartment, but it does not insulate
the
doors/interior. I will most likely try to Dynamat the doors to help with
the noise issues.

--
Tim

There's not much gold to be mined there. In 1993 I tested a 2-step Dynamat
installation on my new Z-28.

The 1st step, all work was done by a Dynamat recommended car restoration
service, included a layer in the doors and a layer on the floor from the
firewall tothe rear hatch area.

The 2nd "Pro-Install" step put a 2nd layer on the areas included in the
first
step and also a layer on the entire hatch area. Total cost to Car Stereo
Review
was $1600.

I made three complete sets of measurements (before and after each step) at
idle, and 35-mph and 55-mph on smooth and rain-grooved pavement on the
same
stretches of road, same days of the week at the same time of day. Each set
included an average of 5 runs eachand covered the full spectrum (not just
a
single SPL reading) with a MLSSA acoustic analyzer.

The resultant noise reduction? Nada except for a slight reduction in tire
whine
in rain-grooved pavement.

Why? There's just not enough mass to significantly attenuate noise. The
obvious
stuff like open holes and the like have been attended to at the factory.
If
you're luck you might find through sound leaks in your doors. But you just
need
to seal those, you don't need Dynamat for that.

Window/door weather/wind seals are usually a better place to look. Also
make
sure your vehicle has a hood liner but it sounds like it already does.

look at dynaudio for the best 3 way system and look into b-quiet for
cheap and good sound dampning


--
tommy
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the car audio community.
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focal 165w3 's
"Tim Louquet" wrote in message
k.net...
Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular 2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal, to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at
moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work
truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on
average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency, and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

Just slapping dynamat on there like Tom had done for his
bull**** article doesnt do any good at all sometimes, specially
when a decent car already has LOTS of sounddeadening already!!!!

Placing dynamat (or other sound deadener) CAN make a big
difference though in the right situation....

Tom Nosaine wants you to believe IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!

But it CAN!!!
If used correctly!!!
And just to **** Tom off here is MY ARTICLE ON THE SUBJECT!
http://installer.com/tech/rattles.html

Tom says NO DIFFERENCE!
My article tells HOW to make a difference!!
You be the judge of which article can help folks the most!

Tony, you cant say it does NOTHING for road noise, or the car
manufacturers wouldnt be using a similar product! They have for
decades!!

but in Toms case where he used a car that already had lots of
factory sound deadening in it then adding $1600 worth of dynamat
is FOOLISH!!!!

Tom always has made me laugh...

Good luck
Eddie Runner
http://www.installer.com/tech/




Tony Fernandes wrote:

Nousaine...as in Tom Nousaine?

I remember the issue you're talking about and I've always defended my
position that Dynamat does nothing for road noise...but most people think
otherwise.

Thank you all for your responses. I had heard great things about the Focal
165W3 Utopias, the Boston Pro Series 6.53's, and the Dynaudio 340's and
360's. Now I will investigate the Phoenix Gold's as well.

Has anyone heard anything about Morel's? I went to a shop and the sales
manager there swore by them. He also had the Dynaudio's on hand and said
that the Morel's were more suited to higher volume levels and more
"powerful" (read: "hard rock") music.

I look forward to finding the right speakers for me and for getting my
system up and running. Thanks for the help!

--
Tim

"Tony Fernandes" wrote:

Nousaine...as in Tom Nousaine?

It's me.


I remember the issue you're talking about and I've always defended my
position that Dynamat does nothing for road noise...but most people think
otherwise.

But, as you know, they're wrong


However, good Dynamating (or the generic equivalet) and/or a visco-elastic
spray works excellent to reduce vibrations and resonations in the door
cavity. In essence, if done correctly, this will be the next-best thing to
an actual speaker "enclosure" made out of your door. I highly recommend it
for those who spend the money for any high-end speaker. Otherwise, you're
wasting your money.

Applying damping material to the doors may or may not improve the door as an
enclosure. The one thing it can do is reduce the sound of a down window
rattling when the door is closed


And I would totally recommend Dynaudio. Their model 360 set is a 3-way with
an 8-inch mid-woofer, 3-inch midrange, and 1-inch tweeter. Mount it any way
you want, but my preferred method is for the tweets and midranges in kick
panels and the 8s in the doors. Keep in mind that your other components
need to be fairly high-end as well, to truly enjoy the speakers' full
potential.

http://www.dynaudiona.com/products/car/car1.htm

And Tom...if that's you...I've been a LONG time fan of your reviews. Keep
up the good work!

Tony

Thanks for the kind words Tony. I'n
m doing my best.

Eddie Runner wrote:

Just slapping dynamat on there like Tom had done for his
bull**** article doesnt do any good at all sometimes, specially
when a decent car already has LOTS of sounddeadening already!!!!

For the record the product was not 'slapped in' it was installed by a Dynamat
recommended installation facility (specialized in custom vehicles and
restorations.)

But the Camaro Z28 is a relatively noisy car by any standard. And the Dynamat
advertising said that it would reduce car noise by up to 9 dB at IDLE.


Placing dynamat (or other sound deadener) CAN make a big
difference though in the right situation....

Tom Nosaine wants you to believe IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!

But it CAN!!!
If used correctly!!!
And just to **** Tom off here is MY ARTICLE ON THE SUBJECT!
http://installer.com/tech/rattles.html

What's so funny here is Eddie says that if your license plate or trunk rattles
you should fix that. So? You certainly don't need Dynamat to damp a license
plate or trunk lid rattle. It will work for that; but it will NOT reduce the
overall level of vehicle noise.


Tom says NO DIFFERENCE!
My article tells HOW to make a difference!!
You be the judge of which article can help folks the most!

Tony, you cant say it does NOTHING for road noise, or the car
manufacturers wouldnt be using a similar product! They have for
decades!!

but in Toms case where he used a car that already had lots of
factory sound deadening in it then adding $1600 worth of dynamat
is FOOLISH!!!!

I didn't do that experiment to quiet the car. It was done to examine the claims
of the manufacturer.

All modern vehicles have lots of sound deadening in them. That's the point.
Dynamat isn't going to help you with vehicle noise problems. You could spend
money on fixing rattles with it but there is plenty of other screws, goop and
stick-on stuff to help you with that at ACE Hardware.

Alpine SPX-F17T's are outstanding.

Paul Vina


"Tim Louquet" wrote in message
k.net...
Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular 2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal, to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at
moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work
truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on
average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency, and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

morel are fantastic if you can find them.. i have yet found a authorized
dealer for them any where local to me


--
tommy
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the car audio community.
http://www.realcaraudio.com
tommy's Profile: http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...nfo&userid=160
View this thread: http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...?threadid=9152

"Tim Louquet" wrote: "He also had the Dynaudio's on hand and said that the
Morel's were more suited to higher volume levels and more "powerful" (read:
"hard rock") music."

The xovers that came with my Dyn360 set sounded absolutely awesome at low
volume levels. However, driven hard, they sounded very raw. I ended up
tri-amping them, using the electronic xovers in my amps. They sound
flawless and take GOBS of power and never start to strain or break up. My
ears will give out first. I've never personally heard Morels, only by
reputation. If the Morels are better suited in this regard, then they
certainly deserve my attention.

Good luck!

Tony

What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact

Eddie, please don't ruin an otherwise pleasant thread by lashing out.

Tony


--


What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact
"Eddie Runner" wrote in message
...
Just slapping dynamat on there like Tom had done for his
bull**** article doesnt do any good at all sometimes, specially
when a decent car already has LOTS of sounddeadening already!!!!

Placing dynamat (or other sound deadener) CAN make a big
difference though in the right situation....

Tom Nosaine wants you to believe IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!

But it CAN!!!
If used correctly!!!
And just to **** Tom off here is MY ARTICLE ON THE SUBJECT!
http://installer.com/tech/rattles.html

Tom says NO DIFFERENCE!
My article tells HOW to make a difference!!
You be the judge of which article can help folks the most!

Tony, you cant say it does NOTHING for road noise, or the car
manufacturers wouldnt be using a similar product! They have for
decades!!

but in Toms case where he used a car that already had lots of
factory sound deadening in it then adding $1600 worth of dynamat
is FOOLISH!!!!

Tom always has made me laugh...

Good luck
Eddie Runner
http://www.installer.com/tech/




Tony Fernandes wrote:

Nousaine...as in Tom Nousaine?

I remember the issue you're talking about and I've always defended my
position that Dynamat does nothing for road noise...but most people
think
otherwise.

Tim,

I have a set of Dynaudio 3-way comp at auction on ebay. They consist of 1"
tweeters, 3" dome midrange and 8" midbass. These are by far the best
components-ask anyone. The 3" midbass has its own built-in enclosure like a
tweeter does. the speakers have huge voice coils for power handling. I will
also be putting up a set of 5-1/4 speakers and tweeters if you need rear
speakers. Check them out at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...y=18 800&rd=1

Good Luck in your quest!

John


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Louquet"
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 3:08 PM
Subject: High-End Components

"Tim Louquet" wrote in message
k.net...
Does anyone have recommendations on an excellent set of 3-way component
speakers? They will be going into a Freightliner M2 truck (regular 2-door
cab). I listen to a broad range of music from classic jazz, to metal, to
hip-hop, to vintage country/western. I have to play the music at
moderate-
to loud-volume levels to overcome the ambient noise of a diesel work
truck.

I'm not too worried about cost, I just want the best. I spend, on
average,
8-10 hours per day in my truck so quality, power-handling, efficiency, and
longevity are of utmost importance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Tim

Nousaine wrote:

Eddie Runner wrote:

Just slapping dynamat on there like Tom had done for his
bull**** article

For the record the product was not 'slapped in' it was installed by a Dynamat
recommended installation facility (specialized in custom vehicles and
restorations.)

But the Camaro Z28 is a relatively noisy car by any standard. And the Dynamat
advertising said that it would reduce car noise by up to 9 dB at IDLE.

OK, you proved DYNAMAT WRONG...
The merchandising and advertising guys are generally idiots anyway...

I dont have a problem with that part of your article....

But I do have a problem with the perception your article gives
that DYNAMAT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE EVER!

It may not in some cases (as advertised), and may in other cases!

So many cars have such good sound deadening carpet and carpet padding
as well as materials just like DYNAMAT glued to the door panels direct
from the manufacturer of the car that MORE may not make any difference
at all....

But on the other hand, there are some BUDGET WORK TRUCKS
(for instance) that have no carpet and little damping materials that can
be benifited (road noise wise) by some materials (like Dynamat).... I
have one scheduled on Saturday that has very TINNY sounding doors
when you slam the door and your inside...

In instances like this much noise can be gotten rid of...

One guy bought the dynamat from us and did one door, he told me that
riding on the freeway next to the center concrete barrier made much less
noise with the dynamat in his door....

We used to do alot of the Hummer H1s with the Dynamat MAX with the
lead sheet in it, it made a HUGE difference on the old Hummers... The
newer H1s have LOTS of sound deadening in them from the factory now,
the old ones did not...

I know the Dynamat hoodliner I used in my UNIMOG sure cut down
the engine noise to a level that I could talk over in the cab, sure knocked
down the noise in the cab from the huge knobby tires as well......

On my 99 Suburban I used to have, I backed up and sideswiped a
telephone pole with the drivers door... The body shop I took it to
put on a new door skin.... It was CHEAPO materials I guess cause
it was so thin it almost sounded like I was driving with the door open... I
lined the inside of the door skin with dynamat and it sounded like the
original door again... and had a nice solid feel when closing it instead
of a tinny echo....

Your article and NO DIFFERENCE is certainly missleading folks
that can benifit by the TRUTH instread of your sensationalist LIES..

Tom Nosaine wants you to believe IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!
But it CAN!!!
If used correctly!!!
And just to **** Tom off here is MY ARTICLE ON THE SUBJECT!
http://installer.com/tech/rattles.html

What's so funny here is Eddie says that if your license plate or trunk rattles
you should fix that. So? You certainly don't need Dynamat to damp a license
plate or trunk lid rattle. It will work for that; but it will NOT reduce the
overall level of vehicle noise.

IT SURE CAN in the right situation!!
But as usuall TOM, your a MORON so I wont tell you anything
anymore .. Just let folks read my article and figure it out for themselves...

And like my article says, it doesnt have to be DYNAMAT, it can
be carpet, it can be wadded up toilet paper, it can be wood, it can be
silicone rubber, it can be many materials that may work in many situations...

Your article comes off with a NO DIFFERENCE, and dont even try
attitude, where my article has a FIND IT, then FIX IT theme....

Let the readers be the judge...
ha ha ha

I didn't do that experiment to quiet the car. It was done to examine the claims
of the manufacturer.

With that part I agree with you.... But with the NO DIFFERENCE attitude
on ANY CAR is what I take issue with Tom....

All modern vehicles have lots of sound deadening in them.

Most do, this CHEAPO chevy truck I am going to work on Saturday
does not, and its BRAND NEW.... No carpet, no power windows,
no lectric locks, and a cheap tinny sounding door... it ECHOS!!!

That's the point.
Dynamat isn't going to help you with vehicle noise problems.

On the plush expensive cars maybe not, on many cheap cars, it certainly can help!!

You could spend
money on fixing rattles with it but there is plenty of other screws, goop and
stick-on stuff to help you with that at ACE Hardware.

I wont argue that point either, before Dynamat (and even still) I use whatever
material I think will do the job best... Sometimes its dynamat and sometimes
its something else.... Some folks do think Dynamat is a CURE ALL and it is
not... But its not USELESS EITHER!!

Use the best stuff for the situation, if its Dynamat then fine, if its something
else
then thats fine also...

Eddie Runner
http://www.installer.com/tech/

The PG Elite components are basically Morel drivers I believe. Just a
headsup.

On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:26:16 GMT, "Tim Louquet"
wrote:

Thank you all for your responses. I had heard great things about the Focal
165W3 Utopias, the Boston Pro Series 6.53's, and the Dynaudio 340's and
360's. Now I will investigate the Phoenix Gold's as well.

Has anyone heard anything about Morel's? I went to a shop and the sales
manager there swore by them. He also had the Dynaudio's on hand and said
that the Morel's were more suited to higher volume levels and more
"powerful" (read: "hard rock") music.

I look forward to finding the right speakers for me and for getting my
system up and running. Thanks for the help!

Stephen Narayan | IASCA Pro Street 1-600 | IASCA Certified Judge 2003
Audio Perfection | RTA system evaluation and tuning |
My System/s: Denon | Clarion ADCS-1 | Orion | Dynaudio | PG ZPA | Blade | Kicker
teamROCS Member #068 | http://www.teamrocs.com

Why not check out my car audio museum
http://canuck.audioguy.net/gear.html

For Morels, you might want to try Madisound at http://www.madisound.com .
They are an authorized Morel dealer. I have no affiliation with them but
have bought drivers from them and always found them to be a reliable
supplier.

Derek

"tommy" wrote in message
...

morel are fantastic if you can find them.. i have yet found a authorized
dealer for them any where local to me


--
tommy
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The fact of the matter is that most road noise enters in through the
doors and the floor of the car. You can slap dynamat all over the doors
and still have plenty of road noise. To eliminate road noise you need
something like carpet padding. Also, by dynamating your floors and
putting a layer of padding you can significantly reduce road noise.
--
sanne
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