I have been given two large speakers - which are around 19 years old - from
my parents. I have plugged them in as additional speakers, and they are
noticablely more quiet, and sound slightly muffled, when compared to the
other speakers. They don't have the same power when connected to the
idential amp.

What happens when speakers are blown? Can I repair something? I would love
to restore these to their original vitality, if that is possible.

Allan
Alberta, Canada.

On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:01:31 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

I have been given two large speakers - which are around 19 years old - from
my parents. I have plugged them in as additional speakers, and they are
noticablely more quiet, and sound slightly muffled, when compared to the
other speakers. They don't have the same power when connected to the
idential amp.

What happens when speakers are blown? Can I repair something? I would love
to restore these to their original vitality, if that is possible.

Allan
Alberta, Canada.



what kind of speakers are they?


Rick Ruskin
Lion Dog Music - Seattle WA
http://liondogmusic.com

On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:01:31 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

I have been given two large speakers - which are around 19 years old - from
my parents. I have plugged them in as additional speakers, and they are
noticablely more quiet, and sound slightly muffled, when compared to the
other speakers. They don't have the same power when connected to the
idential amp.

What happens when speakers are blown? Can I repair something? I would love
to restore these to their original vitality, if that is possible.

Allan
Alberta, Canada.


No one has mentioned that the impedance of the speaker may be 16 or 32
ohm as was common in earlier high end stereo systems or the fact that
they may be high wattage speakers and you are trying to drive them
with a small amp. The BRAND would be nice, as the only speakers in
the ALNICO era that were reconable, rebuildable were JBL's Altecs and
Vegas .. the rest were such trash, it was better to throw them away.

The speakers a

Manufacturer: RJR
Model: G-100
Frequency Reponse: 30-25,000 Hz
Minimum Power Output: 10 Watts RMS
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts RMS
Sensitivity: 91 dB 1 Watt 1 Meter
Crossover Frequency: 25,000 Hz
Impedance: 4 Ohms

Does that help?




"Rick Ruskin" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:01:31 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

I have been given two large speakers - which are around 19 years old -
from
my parents. I have plugged them in as additional speakers, and they are
noticablely more quiet, and sound slightly muffled, when compared to the
other speakers. They don't have the same power when connected to the
idential amp.

What happens when speakers are blown? Can I repair something? I would
love
to restore these to their original vitality, if that is possible.

Allan
Alberta, Canada.



what kind of speakers are they?


Rick Ruskin
Lion Dog Music - Seattle WA
http://liondogmusic.com

Ooops. The Manufacturer is RTR (I had typed in a J instead of a T)




"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 13:51:55 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

The speakers a

Manufacturer: RJR
Model: G-100
Frequency Reponse: 30-25,000 Hz
Minimum Power Output: 10 Watts RMS
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts RMS
Sensitivity: 91 dB 1 Watt 1 Meter
Crossover Frequency: 25,000 Hz
Impedance: 4 Ohms

Does that help?

I can not even find a refference to the speaker manufacturer! If those
are stamped metal frame speakers, not worth the attempt to do a
rebuild as the cost would exceed the value .. but read those specs ..
91db @ 1w/1m is NOT a high powered, high efficiency speaker.

In article ,
Allan wrote:



"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 13:51:55 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

The speakers a

Manufacturer: RTR
Model: G-100
Frequency Reponse: 30-25,000 Hz
Minimum Power Output: 10 Watts RMS
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts RMS
Sensitivity: 91 dB 1 Watt 1 Meter
Crossover Frequency: 25,000 Hz
Impedance: 4 Ohms

Does that help?
Where can I read what each of those specs mean? I have speakers all over the
house to read.

Basically, the specs you quoted pretty much don't mean a damned
thing. For example:

Frequency response: 30-25,000 Hz.
This "spec' tells you absolutely nothing. It could be
interpreted to meaning nothing more than if you put
any frequency in between 30 and 25,000 Hz, SOMETHING
out. Frequency response, without some statement of the
error band, the measurement conditions and such doesn't
mean a thing. If, for example, it said somehing like:

50-20,000 Hz, +- 3 dB measured at 2 meters on
the principle axis, - 6 dB 40-25,000Hz

or something like that, it would have some real meaning

Minimum, maximum power
These specs tell you absolutely nothing, and is in part
contradicted by the sensitivity spec. Minimum power FOR
WHAT? Maximum why?

I'd bet that this specker could be destroyed with 50
watts under the right conditions, which contradicts the
maximum power spec.

And so forth. (I assume, by the way, that your crossover
frequency is a typo).

I can not even find a refference to the speaker manufacturer! If those
are stamped metal frame speakers, not worth the attempt to do a
rebuild as the cost would exceed the value ..

Sorry, but this is nonsense. The fact that a speaker might use a
stamped metal frome does NOT lead to the conclusion that is
drawn. There is a lot of myth and nonsense surrounding stamped
vs cast when, in fact, a properly designed stamped frame of the
appropriate gauge metal can work just as well as a cast frame.

but read those specs ..
91db @ 1w/1m is NOT a high powered, high efficiency speaker.

Uh, wrong. 91 dB 1w/1m is a moderat efficiency, and gives
absolutely NO indication about whether it is or is not high
power.

The major issue is not the specs or whether it uses stamped or
cast, the OP has a broken speaker. WHether it is "worth" fixing
is a value judgement for himm. The difficulty is obtaining
suitable replacement parts. RTS has been gone for a while, the
original drivers are probably not available. Whether there are
acceptable substitutes depends upond what we can learn about the
system.

So the REAL specs we need a

Manufacturer and model number of the existing parts,
presumably the drivers and, if that's not available,
their size and appearance.
(RTR's at one point were using Peerless drivers, and
they were not so unusual as to not have any chance of
replacement).

Size of the cabinet, size (diameter, length) of any
ports)

That's at least enough to make some plausible recommendations.

--
| Dick Pierce |
| Professional Audio Development |
| 1-781/826-4953 Voice and FAX |
| |

In article ,
oldsoundguy wrote:
RTR ... made by the same people that make BIC lighters .. that should
tell you something about disposable speakers.

Uh, no, they weren't. RTR was a company down in New York during
the 70's to around the late 80's, and possibly beyond. Made some
fairly interesting stuff of reasonable quality with pretty good
construction and a high-quality cabinet finish. Thye may or may
not have been pruchased by British Industries Corporation
(B.I.C.) but your memory of them is, well, flawed.

--
| Dick Pierce |
| Professional Audio Development |
| 1-781/826-4953 Voice and FAX |
| |

On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:29:59 +0000 (UTC),
(Richard D Pierce) wrote:

In article ,
oldsoundguy wrote:
RTR ... made by the same people that make BIC lighters .. that should
tell you something about disposable speakers.

Uh, no, they weren't. RTR was a company down in New York during
the 70's to around the late 80's, and possibly beyond. Made some
fairly interesting stuff of reasonable quality with pretty good
construction and a high-quality cabinet finish. Thye may or may
not have been pruchased by British Industries Corporation
(B.I.C.) but your memory of them is, well, flawed.

sorry, didn't know about early days .. but I did pro for over 30
years, and the only speakers allowed in my cabinets both on the road
and at home were JBL's, Altecs. Cerwin Vegas, and John Meyers. NOTHING
compared to those at the time.

I found them on the Net. This is the company.
http://www.rtrspeakers.com

I am not using them in a vehicle. I am setting them up in my basement,
hooked up to my computer and stereo.


"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:18:44 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

Ooops. The Manufacturer is RTR (I had typed in a J instead of a T)




"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 13:51:55 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

The speakers a

Manufacturer: RJR
Model: G-100
Frequency Reponse: 30-25,000 Hz (this tells you what
frequencies the speaker is designed to work in)
Minimum Power Output: 10 Watts RMS (this tells you the MINIMUM
power required to activate the speaker properly)
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts RMS(this tells you the MAXIMUM
AVERAGE power output from your amp that it will accept)
Sensitivity: 91 dB 1 Watt 1 Meter
(this tells you how LOUD the speaker is at the specified power/distance 91
db is softer than the normal television volume!)
Crossover Frequency: 25,000 Hz (this tells you that IF you
want high end response (tweeter) this is the TOP of the speakers range ..
this is a lo-midrange speaker with NO high end)
Impedance: 4 Ohms (this tells you what it
says!)

Does that help?

I can not even find a refference to the speaker manufacturer! If those
are stamped metal frame speakers, not worth the attempt to do a
rebuild as the cost would exceed the value .. but read those specs ..
91db @ 1w/1m is NOT a high powered, high efficiency speaker.

RTR ... made by the same people that make BIC lighters .. that should
tell you something about disposable speakers.

"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:18:44 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

Ooops. The Manufacturer is RTR (I had typed in a J instead of a T)

RTR made higher quality home audio speakers in the 70s and 80s.

These are average-to-high efficiency at 91 dB/watt.

If they sound dull, then the tweeters may be burned out.

Finding exact replacement parts could be very difficult.

Try their website
http://www.rtrspeakers.com/

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"oldsoundguy" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:18:44 GMT, "Allan"
wrote:

Ooops. The Manufacturer is RTR (I had typed in a J instead of a T)

RTR made higher quality home audio speakers in the 70s and 80s.

These are average-to-high efficiency at 91 dB/watt.

If they sound dull, then the tweeters may be burned out.

Finding exact replacement parts could be very difficult.

In article ,
malcolm wrote:
just drop in a pair of Piezto tweeters and voila job done

Pardon us while we all collectively puke at this suggestion.
"dropping in a pair of Piezto [sic] tweeters" is about the WORST
choice imaginable:

1. Depending upon the vintage, the RTR speaker in question may
have used something like a reasonable quality Peerless tweeter.
Even the WORST Peerless tweeter is wider band (by a lot),
flatter response (by a HUGE amount), lower distortion, wider
dispersion, etc.

2. As bad as such a choice is, it's made worse by the fact that
the load presented to the crossover is TOTALLY different than
the original tweeter.

3. completely different mechanical fit means that it is
effectively impossible to just "drop it in."

Lessee, is it possible to do WORSE than a piezto tweeter? Maybe,
but I certainly wouldn't want to be part of the excercise.

--
| Dick Pierce |
| Professional Audio Development |
| 1-781/826-4953 Voice and FAX |
| |

!!! If this post is garbled or otherwise faulty, please forgive. I am
!!! using a new news client on an unfamiliar platform.



Hi Allan;

Regarding your RTR G-100 drivers, I've never worked on those, but have
been reconing speakers for about 4 years.

We have access to a vast selection of parts for reconing of speakers of
many different brands, as well as high quality parts for reconing of
generic speakers.

As we are located in Saskatoon sk Canada, I thought we might be close
enough for you to send or bring them in, if you choose. Feel free to
call me at the number below to discuss possible costs. You could then
decide if it would be worth reconing or finding replacements.



Wade Segade
Electronics Technician
Solid Sound Music Production Services Ltd.
#14 - 2345 Ave. C North
Saskatoon, SK
S7M 5Z5
Ph: (306) 978-1900
Fx: (306) 978-2268