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#1
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The digital music channels in our cable TV service occasionally
experience some kind of switching glitch that sounds dangerous to high-end audio systems. What causes it? It's definitely not the kind of chattering you hear when a CD is bad. I did a Google search of rec.audio newsgroups and didn't find anything on this. Does it happen to anybody? In a year of listening about an hour a day, I've heard this kind of thing maybe a half-dozen times. Yesterday morning was the worst of all. I had the volume turned up moderately and heard what sounded like a rifle shot. The TV image twitched at the same moment. As I was pondering whether to bail out to a CD, another sharp crack occurred. I switched to a CD to see if everything was okay. It wasn't. The right channel frequencies had horrible distortion at high volume. I turned off my system until I had time to examine the situation in detail. An hour later, I turned it on, put a CD in...and everything was normal. My guess is that the tweeter coils actually had to cool off before coming back to normal. So far, there appears to be no permanent damage. |
#2
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Well depending how high end your speakers are they may not have fuses
or circuit breakers as they tend to add odd order harmonics to the tweeter's output. HIgher end speakers usually don't have fuses or breakers. Also if the clip is bad enough your amp's protection should kick in. If you have sufficient power then possibly (unless you have the volume turned up pretty high) your amp may not clip enough to cause damage. Cliping will damage tweeters whereas high levels of clean power is more likely to burn out low frequency drivers (woofers) if your continuous output power exceeds your woofer's rated maximum continuous power handling capacity. Are you sure those glitches are really that loud? They can sound extremely loud when they are so dramatically different from the material to which you're listening. |
#3
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In article , voltar-the
friendly toad wrote: Well depending how high end your speakers are they may not have fuses or circuit breakers as they tend to add odd order harmonics to the tweeter's output. HIgher end speakers usually don't have fuses or breakers. How do fuses and circuit breakers do this? Explanation please, with a basis more scientific than I have seen in the ilk of "Absolute Sound". - Don Klipstein ) |
#4
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Don Klipstein wrote:
In article , voltar-the friendly toad wrote: Well depending how high end your speakers are they may not have fuses or circuit breakers as they tend to add odd order harmonics to the tweeter's output. HIgher end speakers usually don't have fuses or breakers. How do fuses and circuit breakers do this? Explanation please, with a basis more scientific than I have seen in the ilk of "Absolute Sound". The idea here is that fuses are nonlinear devices, even well before they blow. They heat up as current flows through them, which increases their resistance a little in the process. The time constant on them is low enough and the degree of change low enough that I can't imagine you could hear it on a tweeter, but I could see it being audible on a woofer. Circuit breakers are a totally different issue, in that they wind up adding a nonlinear and possibly reactive solenoid in the signal path. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#5
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In article , Scott Dorsey wrote:
Don Klipstein wrote: In article , voltar-the friendly toad wrote: Well depending how high end your speakers are they may not have fuses or circuit breakers as they tend to add odd order harmonics to the tweeter's output. HIgher end speakers usually don't have fuses or breakers. How do fuses and circuit breakers do this? Explanation please, with a basis more scientific than I have seen in the ilk of "Absolute Sound". The idea here is that fuses are nonlinear devices, even well before they blow. They heat up as current flows through them, which increases their resistance a little in the process. The time constant on them is low enough and the degree of change low enough that I can't imagine you could hear it on a tweeter, but I could see it being audible on a woofer. Circuit breakers are a totally different issue, in that they wind up adding a nonlinear and possibly reactive solenoid in the signal path. Aren't those pretty linear until something moves? I am aware of the nonlinearity of inductors with ferromagnetic materials, but that tends to be negligible when much of the magnetic flux path is through air. I thought breakers for tweeters were thermal devices anyway, although it has been quite a few years since I looked at a tweeter breaker. - Don Klipstein ) |
#6
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Don Klipstein wrote:
Kludge writes: Circuit breakers are a totally different issue, in that they wind up adding a nonlinear and possibly reactive solenoid in the signal path. Aren't those pretty linear until something moves? I am aware of the nonlinearity of inductors with ferromagnetic materials, but that tends to be negligible when much of the magnetic flux path is through air. Good point. Hmm... some types of solenoids have the core always within the field... others (like most relays) have the field itself open until it pulls in. I guess I ought to take apart a circuit breaker and see. I thought breakers for tweeters were thermal devices anyway, although it has been quite a few years since I looked at a tweeter breaker. All kinds of stuff gets stuck in front of tweeters. Some are solid state devices, even. I won't even mention the dome light bulbs. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#7
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
All kinds of stuff gets stuck in front of tweeters. Some are solid state devices, even. I won't even mention the dome light bulbs. That's so you can find your high end in the dark. -- ha |
#8
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![]() "Scott Dorsey" wrote in message ... Don Klipstein wrote: Kludge writes: Circuit breakers are a totally different issue, in that they wind up adding a nonlinear and possibly reactive solenoid in the signal path. Aren't those pretty linear until something moves? I am aware of the nonlinearity of inductors with ferromagnetic materials, but that tends to be negligible when much of the magnetic flux path is through air. Good point. Hmm... some types of solenoids have the core always within the field... others (like most relays) have the field itself open until it pulls in. I guess I ought to take apart a circuit breaker and see. I thought breakers for tweeters were thermal devices anyway, although it has been quite a few years since I looked at a tweeter breaker. All kinds of stuff gets stuck in front of tweeters. Some are solid state devices, even. I won't even mention the dome light bulbs. --scott The current popular protective device is the polyfuse, a self-resetting solid state fuse. The construction is a conductive polymer that changes phase rapidly above a set temperature. Every USB port is protected by a polyfuse. They are phenomenally reliable and noninductive, though they do have a resistance in the tenths of ohms. |
#9
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
All kinds of stuff gets stuck in front of tweeters. Some are solid state devices, even. I won't even mention the dome light bulbs. I remember the first time I became aware of the light bulbs inside some PA speakers. I was playing bass at a wedding reception, and we had the undersized makeshift rig running quite loud. I suddenly noticed yellow light visible through the reflex ports pulsing in time with the music, and thought we'd set something on fire! -- Mark. |
#11
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Robert Morein wrote:
The current popular protective device is the polyfuse, a self-resetting solid state fuse. The construction is a conductive polymer that changes phase rapidly above a set temperature. Every USB port is protected by a polyfuse. They are phenomenally reliable and noninductive, though they do have a resistance in the tenths of ohms. Have you got a manufacturer I can check out? This sounds interesting. The problem with speaker protection devices is that you need something that acts fast, but you need something that has a very abrupt transition point with little effect below the transition. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#12
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Hi Charles
I just got a digital box last week and had what sounds like your same problem, loud cracking and sometimes fading of the music....I just had the cable guy out last night with a signal meter. It turned out that I was maginally low on the signal. On my line it was -7db as calibrated on his meter, he said it should be 0db. I do have a splitter before the box, so he put an amplifier right before the box which boosted the signal to 0db (where they say it should be). So far, so good!!! Hope this helps in getting your problem solved. "Charles Packer" wrote in message om... The digital music channels in our cable TV service occasionally experience some kind of switching glitch that sounds dangerous to high-end audio systems. What causes it? It's definitely not the kind of chattering you hear when a CD is bad. I did a Google search of rec.audio newsgroups and didn't find anything on this. Does it happen to anybody? In a year of listening about an hour a day, I've heard this kind of thing maybe a half-dozen times. Yesterday morning was the worst of all. I had the volume turned up moderately and heard what sounded like a rifle shot. The TV image twitched at the same moment. As I was pondering whether to bail out to a CD, another sharp crack occurred. I switched to a CD to see if everything was okay. It wasn't. The right channel frequencies had horrible distortion at high volume. I turned off my system until I had time to examine the situation in detail. An hour later, I turned it on, put a CD in...and everything was normal. My guess is that the tweeter coils actually had to cool off before coming back to normal. So far, there appears to be no permanent damage. |
#13
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![]() "Dennis Leiterman" wrote in message news ![]() Hi Charles I just got a digital box last week and had what sounds like your same problem, loud cracking and sometimes fading of the music....I just had the cable guy out last night with a signal meter. It turned out that I was maginally low on the signal. On my line it was -7db as calibrated on his meter, he said it should be 0db. Oh boy. I hate reading things like this. weitrhino I do have a splitter before the box, so he put an amplifier right before the box which boosted the signal to 0db (where they say it should be). So far, so good!!! Hope this helps in getting your problem solved. "Charles Packer" wrote in message om... The digital music channels in our cable TV service occasionally experience some kind of switching glitch that sounds dangerous to high-end audio systems. What causes it? It's definitely not the kind of chattering you hear when a CD is bad. I did a Google search of rec.audio newsgroups and didn't find anything on this. Does it happen to anybody? In a year of listening about an hour a day, I've heard this kind of thing maybe a half-dozen times. Yesterday morning was the worst of all. I had the volume turned up moderately and heard what sounded like a rifle shot. The TV image twitched at the same moment. As I was pondering whether to bail out to a CD, another sharp crack occurred. I switched to a CD to see if everything was okay. It wasn't. The right channel frequencies had horrible distortion at high volume. I turned off my system until I had time to examine the situation in detail. An hour later, I turned it on, put a CD in...and everything was normal. My guess is that the tweeter coils actually had to cool off before coming back to normal. So far, there appears to be no permanent damage. |
#14
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![]() "Scott Dorsey" wrote in message ... Robert Morein wrote: The current popular protective device is the polyfuse, a self-resetting solid state fuse. The construction is a conductive polymer that changes phase rapidly above a set temperature. Every USB port is protected by a polyfuse. They are phenomenally reliable and noninductive, though they do have a resistance in the tenths of ohms. Have you got a manufacturer I can check out? This sounds interesting. The problem with speaker protection devices is that you need something that acts fast, but you need something that has a very abrupt transition point with little effect below the transition. --scott -- http://www.wickmannusa.com/html/pptcsm.html |
#15
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"Dennis Leiterman" wrote in message igy.com...
Hi Charles I just got a digital box last week and had what sounds like your same problem, loud cracking and sometimes fading of the music....I just had the cable guy out last night with a signal meter. It turned out that I was maginally low on the signal. On my line it was -7db as calibrated on his meter, he said it should be 0db. I do have a splitter before the box, so he put an amplifier right before the box which boosted the signal to 0db (where they say it should be). So far, so good!!! Hope this helps in getting your problem solved. As it turns out, the day before the glitch I experienced, my cable company finally agreed that the problems I had been having with their modem service were due to their network, and would be fixed by the next day. Who knows...maybe in the course of whatever they were doing to fix that, they sent all kinds of glitches down the line. At any rate, I've discovered that the permanent damage was to my preamp. This is a relief, since it's ancient and I don't mind having an excuse to replace it. |
#16
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I may open a can of worms here, but let it serve to educate me.
Firstly, I have strong doubts about the digital cable music causing a failure in your pre-amp. That is to say, I can't see a reason for it. I am assuming you have audio outputs from the box directly into your pre-amp. The box is a "line level" device the same as any other line level device. The pre-amp controls the signal being fed into the power amplifier. The amplifier would only reproduce what is sent into it, right? Secondly, a loud 'pop' would be a considerable change in amplitude of a given signal relative to the volume setting. This could not come from the digital box which is a fixed "line level" device. I would think it far more likely the fault was lurking within the pre-amp channel all along. I suspect a capaciter has blown. It's sudden discharge created the change in amplitude. I now defer to those with greater insight. weitrhino "Charles Packer" wrote in message om... "Dennis Leiterman" wrote in message igy.com... Hi Charles I just got a digital box last week and had what sounds like your same problem, loud cracking and sometimes fading of the music....I just had the cable guy out last night with a signal meter. It turned out that I was maginally low on the signal. On my line it was -7db as calibrated on his meter, he said it should be 0db. I do have a splitter before the box, so he put an amplifier right before the box which boosted the signal to 0db (where they say it should be). So far, so good!!! Hope this helps in getting your problem solved. As it turns out, the day before the glitch I experienced, my cable company finally agreed that the problems I had been having with their modem service were due to their network, and would be fixed by the next day. Who knows...maybe in the course of whatever they were doing to fix that, they sent all kinds of glitches down the line. At any rate, I've discovered that the permanent damage was to my preamp. This is a relief, since it's ancient and I don't mind having an excuse to replace it. |
#17
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"weitrhino" wrote in message ...
Firstly, I have strong doubts about the digital cable music causing a failure in your pre-amp. That is to say, I can't see a reason for it. I Indeed, I'm beginning to doubt it too. The preamp subsequently exhibited some more weird behavior upon being turned on in the morning. After some exchanging of cables, fiddling with switches, it went away and hasn't returned, so far. And, incidentally, Starpower hadn't fixed my modem problem, as they said. This morning I had to disconnect the TV box from the cable feed to get a high enough modem level... Things are back to normal! |
#18
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#19
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