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#1
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
hello all.
i have recently purchased an older house (150 yrs old) in new orleans, and want to limit the noise thats coming in as best as possible. the current walls are plaster with an airspace and wooden studs and then the outside siding. depending on costs.. 1. i could blow-in insulation between the current walls and the siding 2. demo the plaster apply insulation and some other material and put up drywall 3. ??? what might that other material be? any recommendations on blown insulation? any links to good sites for info on this... thnx alot guys perry |
#2
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
perry wrote:
hello all. i have recently purchased an older house (150 yrs old) in new orleans, and want to limit the noise thats coming in as best as possible. the current walls are plaster with an airspace and wooden studs and then the outside siding. Often the windows are the major source of noise coming into the house. Vinyl twin pane windows can make a dramatic difference. Of course, you have to keep them closed, which might be inconvenient in New Orleans! I don't know what's available down there, but here are the details of some Yankee windows: http://www.kaufmannwindow.com/window.htm |
#3
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
perry wrote:
i have recently purchased an older house (150 yrs old) in new orleans, and want to limit the noise thats coming in as best as possible. What kind of noise is coming in? the current walls are plaster with an airspace and wooden studs and then the outside siding. depending on costs.. 1. i could blow-in insulation between the current walls and the siding This is a good idea, and it will bring your heating bills down. It may reduce high frequency leakage too, if that is an issue. 2. demo the plaster apply insulation and some other material and put up drywall This will almost certainly make whatever problem you have worse, because the drywall is so lightweight compared with the old plaster. None of these things will do anything about low frequency stuff conducted by the structure, which is the most common noise problem. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#4
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
Often the windows are the major source of noise coming into the house. Vinyl
twin pane windows can make a dramatic difference. Of course, you have to keep them closed, which might be inconvenient in New Orleans! well the windows cant be changed. i can try and tighten the frames as much as possible and perhaps add weather strip, but these are beautiful original windows, so im not replacing them... as far as what noise is coming through: neighbors voices when they hang on the street (about 35 feet away).. they tend to argue often... cars, the bus every so often.... the blown insulation sounds like the best way to go, if the dry-wall is inferior... |
#5
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
In article ,
perry wrote: well the windows cant be changed. i can try and tighten the frames as much as possible and perhaps add weather strip, but these are beautiful original windows, so im not replacing them... Let me get this straight: You moved into a historic district in New Orleans looking for peace and quiet? |
#6
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
perry wrote:
Often the windows are the major source of noise coming into the house. Vinyl twin pane windows can make a dramatic difference. Of course, you have to keep them closed, which might be inconvenient in New Orleans! well the windows cant be changed. i can try and tighten the frames as much as possible and perhaps add weather strip, but these are beautiful original windows, so im not replacing them... Don't worry about it, then. If you can't do anything about the windows, doing anything else will be futile. Especially if they are original windows. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#8
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
In article ,
Ty Ford wrote: Got budget for the windows too? Heavy (really heavy) curtains and/or screens can go a long way towards attenuation. |
#9
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
Let me get this straight: You moved into a historic district in New
Orleans looking for peace and quiet? new orleans has many historic districts. one of which is the french quarter which you are probably thinking of. that is not the historic district that i live in, but a short mile away. just as a point of reference: i have lived in the french quarter in the past, and that was the quietest block i have ever lived on. come down and visit our great city sometime, and i hope you'll wander off the path enough to see that how misrepresented new orleans has become in the media. ty-- i got a budget for the windows, but i wont replace them... i can only attempt to reduce any leakage around the windows. i just wanted to reiterate that i am not building a recording studio here. i just want to best knock down as many dbs in whatever freq ranges i can... is there any particular kind of blown insulation that works best, or are they about the same? thanks for all the comments... keep them coming ... and hope ill meet some of you at tape-op-con in may which has a few events at the studio where i intern. |
#10
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
In article ,
perry wrote: Let me get this straight: You moved into a historic district in New Orleans looking for peace and quiet? new orleans has many historic districts. one of which is the french quarter which you are probably thinking of. I'm very familiar with the city. Just saying. When I complained about noise the response was basically, "move to the midwest".... And I'm already in the middle of the desert :-) |
#11
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
perry wrote:
ty-- i got a budget for the windows, but i wont replace them... i can only attempt to reduce any leakage around the windows. How about building covers that go over the windows and block them completely? i just wanted to reiterate that i am not building a recording studio here. i just want to best knock down as many dbs in whatever freq ranges i can... In that case, the windows are the first place to look. I hate to tell you this, but the first source of leakage will be through the windows, and the second source will be structure-borne bass sounds. The latter is MUCH harder to deal with. is there any particular kind of blown insulation that works best, or are they about the same? They are all about the same, and if you have standard single-pane windows, they won't do a bit of good. thanks for all the comments... keep them coming ... and hope ill meet some of you at tape-op-con in may which has a few events at the studio where i intern. I'm not even making the AES in Berlin this year. This spring is festival hell. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#12
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
In Article ,
(perry) wrote: ty-- i got a budget for the windows, but i wont replace them... i can only attempt to reduce any leakage around the windows. Some folks have retrofitted their windows with frames that completely emcompass each window, on the inside. They put glass or plexi in the frames so as to add a second barrier window. That'll help. If you need to open them from time to time you could mount bolts and slip the "windows" over them, or maybe hinge them. i just wanted to reiterate that i am not building a recording studio here. i just want to best knock down as many dbs in whatever freq ranges i can... is there any particular kind of blown insulation that works best, or are they about the same? Most blown in stuff is just ground up newspaper. If your walls are really open, it might help a little, but not much. Ty For Ty Ford V/O demos, audio services and equipment reviews, click on http://www.jagunet.com/~tford |
#13
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
"Ty Ford" wrote in message
... In Article , (perry) wrote: ty-- i got a budget for the windows, but i wont replace them... i can only attempt to reduce any leakage around the windows. Some folks have retrofitted their windows with frames that completely emcompass each window, on the inside. They put glass or plexi in the frames so as to add a second barrier window. That'll help. If you need to open them from time to time you could mount bolts and slip the "windows" over them, or maybe hinge them. That's what I did with the two basement windows that are about 6 feet from my mic. I removed the old casement windows and replaced them with a wooden frame with a pane of 1/2 inch polycarbonate plus a paen of 1/4 inch polycarbonate. Had I wanted to retain the original windows I could have created a frame with the polycarbonate to fit within the interior sill and frame of the existing windows. My result is that the occasional jet interrupts a session. A lawn mower in my back yard right near the windows would shut me down, but my neighbor can mow with his rider mower and I don't hear it. i just wanted to reiterate that i am not building a recording studio here. i just want to best knock down as many dbs in whatever freq ranges i can... is there any particular kind of blown insulation that works best, or are they about the same? Most blown in stuff is just ground up newspaper. If your walls are really open, it might help a little, but not much. I've used vermiculite, expanded mica, within plasterboard walls, and it did a remarkable job of reducing the sound transmission. Vermiculite is used for many horticultural, insulating and industrial purposes, but it was Malcolm Chisholm who suggested it as a wall filler. It definitely works better than fiberglass wool. In addition, it seems to take all of the resonance out of the sheet rock panels. It will blow or it will pour, which is the way we put it in. We left a 6 inch gap in the sheet rock at the top of the wall, filled with vermiculite up to the gap, filled the top with fiberglass before finishing the sheet rock taping. Go here to read about vermiculite: http://www.schundler.com/index.html Steve King |
#14
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
Heavy (really heavy) curtains and/or screens can go a long way towards attenuation. id love to research some curtains, any links or particular brands/models to get me strarted? screens?? im a bit stumpted. what kind of screens? thanks |
#15
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
In article ,
perry wrote: screens?? im a bit stumpted. what kind of screens? Big, thick, heavy wooden frames (choose a pretty hardwood if there's a female involved), with a very, very dense material like 5/8" particle board within the frames. (Put an oriental silk or paint a mediterranean scene on it, again if there's a female involved.) Make it with piano hinges so you can fold it and move it out of the way when you want your windows back. |
#16
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
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#17
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
I've used vermiculite, expanded mica, within plasterboard walls, and it did
a remarkable job of reducing the sound transmission. Vermiculite is used for many horticultural, insulating and industrial purposes, but it was Malcolm Chisholm who suggested it as a wall filler. It definitely works better than fiberglass wool. In addition, it seems to take all of the resonance out of the sheet rock panels. It will blow or it will pour, which is the way we put it in. We left a 6 inch gap in the sheet rock at the top of the wall, filled with vermiculite up to the gap, filled the top with fiberglass before finishing the sheet rock taping. Go here to read about vermiculite: http://www.schundler.com/index.html Steve King steve-- im very interested... ive read a bit of the site. why did you use vermiculite over perlite? |
#18
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
"perry" wrote in message
om... I've used vermiculite, expanded mica, within plasterboard walls, and it did a remarkable job of reducing the sound transmission. Vermiculite is used for many horticultural, insulating and industrial purposes, but it was Malcolm Chisholm who suggested it as a wall filler. It definitely works better than fiberglass wool. In addition, it seems to take all of the resonance out of the sheet rock panels. It will blow or it will pour, which is the way we put it in. We left a 6 inch gap in the sheet rock at the top of the wall, filled with vermiculite up to the gap, filled the top with fiberglass before finishing the sheet rock taping. Go here to read about vermiculite: http://www.schundler.com/index.html Steve King steve-- im very interested... ive read a bit of the site. why did you use vermiculite over perlite? Malcolm Chisholm, now deceased, but whose studio design ideas can be found here in a site his son maintains--- http://pages.ripco.net/~chisholm/rsdp/INDEX.HTM, had previously used vermiculite on the advice of his contractori n a disc mastering studio he had built. It had worked well there, and it worked for us in an existing standard 2x4 and 5/8ths sheet rock wall. We needed to reduce the transmission from our dub room (where we made client tape and film copies and did minor editing) into the adjacent office and waiting room spaces. I was skeptical, as we were putting the stuff in the 6 inch gap we created at the top of the wallboard. Adding another isolated wall was not a choice. That would have encroached on an already too small waiting room. Of course, I don't mean to imply that using this material will give the same results as traditional double-wall construction, but it was much better than other walls in the same facitlity that had common fiberglass batting between the sheetrock panels. Steve King |
#19
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sound reinforcement question...street noise
The PBS show "This Old House" did a New Orleans house of
approximately the same era a year or 3 ago and I'm pretty sure it was one of those "gotta keep the local historical commission happy" deals. You might see if you can get tapes of those episodes to see what they had to deal with and how they handled things. no worries on that front, they only concern themselves with external appearance... other than that you can do whatever you like as long as its up to code, like anywhere else. |
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