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#1
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Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date. I don't think
Ian Bjorhovde has updated them in over 3 years. We maintain a searchable version online at caraudioforum.com and want to update them to todays questions. If interested in helping, or submitting a question you think should be included, please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 To be perfectly honest, and not meaning to step on anyone's toes here, I think the FAQ is old hat. It's clearly dated beyond belief, incomplete, isn't particularly helpful or user friendly, and contains several inaccuracies. It also weighs in with definitive answers on a lot of controversial or subjective topics. I think many of the regulars here have sort of adopted the eatel site as the unofficial RAC FAQ. http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm I'd like to hear other people's takes on this. |
#2
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Posted by Mark Zarella
================== Quote of post by Lee: Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date. [...] please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 To be perfectly honest, and not meaning to step on anyone's toes here, I think the FAQ is old hat. [ ... ] I think many of the regulars here have sort of adopted the eatel site as the unofficial RAC FAQ. http://tinyurl.com/dwkr ================== I agree that it is dated, that is the idea of updating it. As far as the eatel site, it is a very good reference site, but a reference site is what it is -- the idea of a FAQ is to reduce the volume of information contained in a reference site to simple answers to common questions. To give people a quick start; a way to learn the basics quickly. -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#3
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Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date. [...]
please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 To be perfectly honest, and not meaning to step on anyone's toes here, I think the FAQ is old hat. [ ... ] I think many of the regulars here have sort of adopted the eatel site as the unofficial RAC FAQ. http://tinyurl.com/dwkr ================== I agree that it is dated, that is the idea of updating it. As far as the eatel site, it is a very good reference site, but a reference site is what it is -- the idea of a FAQ is to reduce the volume of information contained in a reference site to simple answers to common questions. To give people a quick start; a way to learn the basics quickly. I don't see a more efficient way of learning the basics than by going step by step through the eatel site. I do agree however that there should be a reference in the "FAQ" format. But I don't think the FAQ is in need of a mere update...I think it needs a complete overhaul. |
#4
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Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date.
[...] please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 I agree that it is dated, that is the idea of updating it... .. But I don't think the FAQ is in need of a mere update ...I think it needs a complete overhaul. Then we'll look forward to your suggestions on how to overhaul it. What better way to help than participate. ![]() -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#5
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Damn, I meant cable VS chassis
Lee wrote in message ws.com... Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date. [...] please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 I agree that it is dated, that is the idea of updating it... .. But I don't think the FAQ is in need of a mere update ...I think it needs a complete overhaul. Then we'll look forward to your suggestions on how to overhaul it. What better way to help than participate. ![]() |
#6
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Grounding via separate cable tied into the
battery vs. chassis grounds. and Gain settings, by Eddie Runner Paul, could you include how you think it should be written? If you find that an entry in the FAQ is incorrect, please post the FAQ Title as well as the way it should be answered. Thanks for your suggestion Paul. Lee -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#7
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Lee,
I would suggest you might solicit some input from the various Tech Support and Engineering dept's around the industry before you start to pollute the existing FAQ's with what is potentially very flawed installation or product philosophy. Most of us in the industry do not have the luxury of enough bandwidth to write that kind of thing from scratch just for usenet or other non-corporate projects, but I bet you can get some proofing done that way. I suggest this because traditionally RAC has been a veritable fount of misinformation far too often on these kinds of things, so using un-vetted input would seem to be much like asking the inmates of the asylum for a written business plan detailing how to run it. What is there in the FAQ's currently may not have been updated recently, but it at least has the virtue of having been screened for poor content - at some point - and has stood the test of time since. JD just my two cents worth on this subject Lee wrote: Grounding via separate cable tied into the battery vs. chassis grounds. and Gain settings, by Eddie Runner Paul, could you include how you think it should be written? If you find that an entry in the FAQ is incorrect, please post the FAQ Title as well as the way it should be answered. Thanks for your suggestion Paul. Lee -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#8
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Posted by John Durbin
Grounding via separate cable tied into the battery vs. chassis grounds. and Gain settings, by Eddie Runner neither one makes good sense electrically though ... Then perhaps you can suggest an alternative answer instead of simply a critic. Or at least clarify how it doesn't make "sense electrically" so we can see if you have a valid point. -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#9
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Originally posted by John Durbin
I would suggest you might solicit some input from the various Tech Support [...] using un-vetted input would seem to be much like asking the inmates of the asylum for a written business plan detailing how to run it. What is there in the FAQ's [...] has the virtue of having been screened for poor content - at some point - and has stood the test of time since. The history of the FAQ is its creation from members of rec.audio.car. I, having been in the industry myself now for over 20 years, hope to add to the FAQ input from same as well as the additional input from the 3500 visitors we get a day here at caraudioforum.com -- Any answers we create or already have that appear questionable I plan on researching, which will include running them buy Industry techs that I respect -- not to be confused with those that I don't. ![]() Originally posted by John Durbin Most of us in the industry do not have the luxury of enough bandwidth to write that kind of thing from scratch With over 6200 posts from you in rec.audio.car in the last three years -- averaging 43 posts per week ever week, you must not be including yourself in this group. ![]() I don't think we need to rewrite the thing from scratch, but it could be improved, and making an effort to do so can't be bad. I have some resources (a very active forum) and a bit of knowledge myself -- now all we need are a few more people interested in helping. Thanks for your input. Lee Below is John Durbin's post in its entirety: ============================== I would suggest you might solicit some input from the various Tech Support and Engineering dept's around the industry before you start to pollute the existing FAQ's with what is potentially very flawed installation or product philosophy. Most of us in the industry do not have the luxury of enough bandwidth to write that kind of thing from scratch just for usenet or other non-corporate projects, but I bet you can get some proofing done that way. I suggest this because traditionally RAC has been a veritable fount of misinformation far too often on these kinds of things, so using un-vetted input would seem to be much like asking the inmates of the asylum for a written business plan detailing how to run it. What is there in the FAQ's currently may not have been updated recently, but it at least has the virtue of having been screened for poor content - at some point - and has stood the test of time since. ============================== -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#10
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I think that may serve as a good example of what I alluded to
earlier...that is, the FAQ "taking a stand" on a somewhat controversial issue and ignoring the other side of the story. In the new version there are notes offering alternative, but equally acceptable answer to some questions. I plan on adding these where applicable. I feel that if there is more than one good answer they all should be represented. Yes, as long as it's factually accurate and not just "opinion". Other instances where this is true are found .. What would be really helpful though, is the inclusion of the actual article as well as your suggested improvement for the official answer. After skimming the FAQ again, I think the following improvements should be made: Section 1 Definitions -- I've had several discussions in here with people regarding something rather trivial - the term "RMS power". The "controversy", if you want to call it that, surrounds the fact that "RMS power" is in fact a misnomer the way it's used by manufacturers. However, it's widespread, so it should be recognized. Therefore, I suggest that the following line be changed: "`W' is for watts, a measurement of electrical power. One watt is equal to one volt times one amp, or one joule of energy per second. In a DC circuit, the power is calculated as the voltage times the current (P=V x I). In an AC circuit, the RMS power is calculated as the RMS voltage times the RMS current (Prms=Vrms x Irms)." The final sentence should read: "In an AC circuit, the average power (sometimes referred to by many manufacturers as "RMS power") is calculated as..." -- There's another line in this section that seems to me to be somewhat misleading. It's as follows: `THD' is for total harmonic distortion, and is a measure of the how much a certain device may distort a signal. These figures are usually given as percentages. It is believed that THD figures below approximately 0.1% are inaudible. However, it should be realized that distortion adds, so that if a head unit, equalizer, signal processor, crossover, amplifier and speaker are all rated at "no greater than 0.1%THD", together, they could produce 0.6%THD, which could be noticeable in the output." The major mistake here is the notion that harmonic distortion adds. But this is not necessarily true. So I don't think such conclusions should be made, nor do I think the 0.1% THD audibility phrase should be kept in. It's not accurate. However, it should be pointed out that harmonic distortion BELOW that number is indetectable by humans. The distinction is important because as it stands now, it implies that 0.6% THD *is* audible, when in fact it may very well not be. So perhaps it's not a mistake, but I think a clarification is in order. Section 2.10. "The commonly accepted "formula" for determining the proper size capacitor to use is 1F/kW (one farad per kilowatt). For example, a system running at 300W would need a 0.3F (or 300,000uF) capacitor." This formula is bogus. There are way too many variables for this formula to even remotely make sense. Clearly, the same rule of thumb does not hold for a car with a 55A alternator as it does for a car with a 130A alternator. The 1F/1kW "rule" is entirely arbitrary and quite frankly worthless. Section 3.4 "Damping factors above 100 are generally regarded as good." What does this mean? I regard damping factors above 10 as good. And tube amp owners clearly regard damping factors below 10 as good. The damping factor spec really has no basis for today's amplifiers. The best I can do is point you towards Richard Pierce's article on the subject...http://www.diyspeakers.net/Articles/...%20DAMPING%20F ACTOR.pdf Section 5.21 "These introduce distortion to the signal -- this will destroy *any* speaker." This line is demonstrably false. Speakers don't know what the original signal looked like so they have no way of determining whether or not it's distorted. The assertion that clipping tends to cause more harm than "overpowering" is also not only counterintuitive, but flat out wrong. The two should not be implied to be mutually exclusive, especially since section 5.22 (which is a good description) illustrates that they are not. Also, in sections 5.21 and 5.22, the term "distortion" MUST be replaced by "clipping". The distinction is important because upon reading these sections people would get the impression that the distorted guitar sounds from their favorite rock bands or the distorted quality of bootleg shows, for instance, would be harmful to their speakers. Think I'm exaggerating? Then you haven't been paying attention to some of the misinformation that people spout here! Other important additions or corrections to the FAQ should be sections on the following topics: -- mp3...for obvious reasons. The technology has improved and car computers are becoming much more common. Both should be addressed. -- The relay section should not use bosch type as the example. Those relays are in fact not generally a good idea to use (with a few exceptions) because often the coil resistance is lower than the resistance of the devices they want the relay to power! -- Hearing loss needs to be addressed. It's not brought up a whole lot, but it is occasionally. And at the very least it should be put in because of its importance. Not a public service announcement though. -- Psychoacoustics is the most essential aspect of audio. It's never asked about because most people don't know what it is. But it should be discussed because the "correct answers" to many of the FAQ questions are based on it. Hope this helps. Also, if you need me to elaborate on anything I've said, or if you want me to write anything either respond here or email me at zarellam ...at... upstate ...dot... edu. |
#11
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As I stated Lee, I am willing to proof or offer comments on someone
else's swag at covering the topic but I can't justify the time it would take to draft it 100% either to my employer or my family. That doesn't make me a critic, just a participant, in fact long-term participant, in this newsgroup. I would think you of all people would take my input - any input - as simply that and not get defensive if I didn't 100% agree with your last post. JD Lee wrote: Posted by John Durbin Grounding via separate cable tied into the battery vs. chassis grounds. and Gain settings, by Eddie Runner neither one makes good sense electrically though ... Then perhaps you can suggest an alternative answer instead of simply a critic. Or at least clarify how it doesn't make "sense electrically" so we can see if you have a valid point. -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#12
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Originally posted by John Durbin
As I stated Lee, I am willing to proof or offer comments on someone else's swag at covering the topic but I can't justify the time it would take to draft it 100% Not getting defensive, just noting that the effort to make a single correction to a single entry in the FAQ doesn't require much time or effort. I would never expect anyone to rewrite the entire thing from scratch. If you don't want to, or don't have the time to submit a single correction or improvement, then to help, you will be left with only the "critic's" position of either agreeing or disagreeing with someone else's work. That's what I meant by critic, no other point in my post. Please feel free to offer your critique of the W/RMS thread which includes initial proposed changes for that entry. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks lh -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#13
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Hey John:
I believe running a separate ground wire to a distro block for the amps and head units to the battery makes more sense than grounding to the chassis. What do you propose is the best way to ground these devices to a common point of return? Rgds, Paul On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 03:14:34 GMT, John Durbin wrote: neither one makes good sense electrically though ... JD Paul Hanley wrote: Damn, I meant cable VS chassis Lee wrote in message ws.com... Interested in bringing the rec.audio.car FAQ up to date. [...] please stop by and add it to the FAQ: New Questions section at: http://tinyurl.com/gqp3 I agree that it is dated, that is the idea of updating it... .. But I don't think the FAQ is in need of a mere update ...I think it needs a complete overhaul. Then we'll look forward to your suggestions on how to overhaul it. What better way to help than participate. ![]() |
#14
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believe running a separate ground wire to a distro block for the
amps and head units to the battery makes more sense than grounding to the chassis. What do you propose is the best way to ground these devices to a common point of return? Rgds, Paul Why do you think running to the battery is better than grounding to chassis? Les |
#15
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Because I dont need to sand down the area in which I am attaching the
ground. ![]() Well true. But you didnt answer how it makes more sense to run back to the battery. So why is it? I find it way more difficult to run 4 gauge back to the battery rather than scraping a little paint away and attaching it within a couple feet. Either way, but you spend more time and money running it back to the battery for usually zero advantage. Les |
#16
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Originally posted by Soundfreak03
Well true. But you didnt answer how it makes more sense to run back to the battery. So why is it? Well, in some rare cases, due to poorly grounded body frame, old weld points, etc; I have found that I can't get as low a ground point, under large demand, on the body as with a dedicated ground cable run back to the alternator casing. As I said, this is pretty rare and usually only an issue with some of the higher powered systems. -- Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
#17
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I am by no means a resource, but i try to research things alot. I think
that when you redo the FAQ, you should be brief in explination but include links to your sources for more in-depth reading if one is not quick to catch on. -- sl2perfect ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb2/sh...hreadid=149730 |
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