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Mark Zarella
 
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Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

A number of sales people have also told EHC that a/d/s/, Orgion, and
PrecisionPower are all owned by the same company and non of the
stuff is really that good anymore. Is there any truth to the rumer
that a/d/s/ isn't very good anymore.


There's truth to a/d/s/, Orion, and PPI being owned by Directed
Electronics - a company that's in much better shape than the prior owner
ADST was. In any case, John Durbin can correct me here, but I don't think
any of those brands have changed in terms of electronics since Directed took
them over. The only thing that's changed so far is that the service has
gone from horrendous to very good.


  #2   Report Post  
Quigmeister Quigolator Quiganology
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

I think I found an amp that I am happy with: The a/d/s/ 850.2

Nice choice.

Is there any truth to the rumer
that a/d/s/ isn't very good anymore.


It's a shame that when people don't know what to say,
they say something stupid.
Whoever told you this doesn't know what to say.

Most of what MZ replied is true:
The manufacturing of many of the products is the same or better,
and the company behind the product is a whole lot better (and solvent)

The Orion amps are all diff. this year.
In fact, many don't like the change from the trademark
Red HCCA
Blue Cobalt
Black XTR and Pro
to the new brushed aluminum look across the whole line.
The insides are still great, but for some reason they choose
to waste the old identidy these amps had.

The A/D/S/ and PPI amps are in fact the same products carried over for a 2nd
(or 3rd) year.

Rather than rush out and change everything in every line, Directed has been
addressing the product lines/categories one at a time.

..

www.MAINSTREET-AUDIO.com
~ ~ ~ Where SERVICE never goes out of style ~ ~ ~

V I S I T O U R F O R U M
http://63.74.14.174/forum/phpBB2/index.php
  #3   Report Post  
Pat M
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

The amps are not rated at 2 ohm bridged configuration but if you have plenty
of cooling on it and are using the 2 ohm load for front and rear speakers
that is fine but if you plan on running a set of subs at a 2 ohm load then I
wouldn't even think about it.. No matter how much ventilation you give it
with cooling fans it will heat up and cause problems. I am running a P650.2
in my wife's Tahoe and is running strong as when it went in there 9-12
months ago. I am running a P850.2 in my motorhome with a decked out
surround sound system and still no problems. As for flush mounting the
product just make sure that you have proper ventilation blowing across the
heatsink and you will be fine. If you can get a fan to blow on the back
side of the heat sink into the finned area that would help out also. I
would do some sort of push pull fan configuration..
--
Pat M.

"VW New Beetle owner" wrote in message
...
It is good to hear that the change in ownership has not effected the
product, only improved the service! I am going to be powering all
the main speakers and the sub off this one amp. Is this amp stable
with a 2-ohm load when it is bridged?

EHC (The Outlander owner)



  #4   Report Post  
VW New Beetle owner
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 at 03:03 GMT, Pat M wrote:

The amps are not rated at 2 ohm bridged configuration but if you
have plenty of cooling on it and are using the 2 ohm load for
front and rear speakers that is fine but if you plan on running a
set of subs at a 2 ohm load then I wouldn't even think about it..
No matter how much ventilation you give it with cooling fans it
will heat up and cause problems.


It happens that my intention was to power a sub I guess that idea
is out.

I am running a P650.2 in my wife's Tahoe and is running strong as
when it went in there 9-12 months ago. I am running a P850.2 in
my motorhome with a decked out surround sound system and still no
problems. As for flush mounting the product just make sure that
you have proper ventilation blowing across the heatsink and you
will be fine. If you can get a fan to blow on the back side of
the heat sink into the finned area that would help out also. I
would do some sort of push pull fan configuration..


The objective here is to flush mount the amps much the same way the
amps are flush mounted in this image:

http://www.theautophile.com/products...geraldamp1.gif

From looking at the picture on the a/d/s/ site, it looks like the
heat sinks are all on the top. Is that correct? The amp(s) will be
mounted on the back of the back seat of the New Beetle. If I just
get the 850.2, it will be horizontal, if I use the PQ40.2 and
P450.2, they will both be mounted vertically. Ideally I would like
to flush the amps to the top of the heat sinks, do you think this
would be feasible or do you think I should flush the amp to the
bottom of the heat sinks? Do you think there would be a need to
have push/pull fan for the inside of the casing?

I need a total of 7 channels. Along with the standard 5 channels
(2-front, 2-back, and 1-sub), I am going to be powering a set of
6.5" mid-bass drivers with a final set of amps. All the speakers
are Boston Acoustics ProSeries. Currently I can get my hands on
both a 12.5LF 4 ohm and 2 ohm for a steal. My concern with using
just the 850.2 is that the bridging channels 7&8 will not give me
enough power to drive the 4 ohm BA ProSeries 12.5FL. It is for this
reason I am considering using the P450.2 to drive the front and back
and then using the PQ40.2 to drive the mid-bass drivers and bridging
3&4 to power the 4-ohm BA ProSeries 12.5LF.

Any and all input you have is welcome.

EHC
  #5   Report Post  
Ge0
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

Let me correct you. a/d/s/ (Pat M to be exact) always had EXCELLENT service
in my book. Top notch product, top notch people behind it.

Had ****ty experience with Orion, don't know about PPI.


"Mark Zarella" seesigfile wrote in message
...
A number of sales people have also told EHC that a/d/s/, Orgion, and
PrecisionPower are all owned by the same company and non of the
stuff is really that good anymore. Is there any truth to the rumer
that a/d/s/ isn't very good anymore.


There's truth to a/d/s/, Orion, and PPI being owned by Directed
Electronics - a company that's in much better shape than the prior owner
ADST was. In any case, John Durbin can correct me here, but I don't think
any of those brands have changed in terms of electronics since Directed

took
them over. The only thing that's changed so far is that the service has
gone from horrendous to very good.


--
Ge0
*******************************************
TeamAMP #4 - tech whiz type of guy
*******************************************
Low cost car stereo equipment repair/ modification
Contact me for advice or a quote.
Always interested in buying dead equipment too.
********************************************
Looking for answers on car stereo topics?
www.mobileaudio.com
www.teamrocs.com
http://go.to/bcae/
*******************************************
Geo uses:
Main Stage = a/d/s/ 336is.2
Rear fill = a/d/s/ 335is.2
Subs = Audiomobile Mass 2012 S24
Head unit = Denon DCT-1000R
Processor 1 = Orion DEQ30
Processor 2 = Tubedriver LDX-23 3-way x-over
Processor 3 = Ge0 brewed digital time delay
Sub Amp = a/d/s/ P4100.2
Main & rear fill amp = a/d/s/ P840.2
Interconnects = Streetwires ZN2.0, custom balanced and optical cabling
Power distribution = Streetwires
********************************************
Ge0 rides Ventanna and GT double boinger MTB's
Bikes built from deals at WWW.MTBREVIEW.COM
****




  #6   Report Post  
Ge0
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

I ran my P840.2 and P4100.2 sealed under a false floor in my trunk for over
a year. Used to hammer that system pretty hard, especially during spring
and summer. I gave these amps a good workout. As long as you keep air flow
over the amps they are fine. Only had them shut down once and this was
because I forgot to reconnect power to the fans.

Both amps are in a new vehicle now. Still going strong as ever.

Ge0

"Pat M" wrote in message
...
The amps are not rated at 2 ohm bridged configuration but if you have

plenty
of cooling on it and are using the 2 ohm load for front and rear speakers
that is fine but if you plan on running a set of subs at a 2 ohm load then

I
wouldn't even think about it.. No matter how much ventilation you give it
with cooling fans it will heat up and cause problems. I am running a

P650.2
in my wife's Tahoe and is running strong as when it went in there 9-12
months ago. I am running a P850.2 in my motorhome with a decked out
surround sound system and still no problems. As for flush mounting the
product just make sure that you have proper ventilation blowing across the
heatsink and you will be fine. If you can get a fan to blow on the back
side of the heat sink into the finned area that would help out also. I
would do some sort of push pull fan configuration..
--
Pat M.

"VW New Beetle owner" wrote in message
...
It is good to hear that the change in ownership has not effected the
product, only improved the service! I am going to be powering all
the main speakers and the sub off this one amp. Is this amp stable
with a 2-ohm load when it is bridged?

EHC (The Outlander owner)





  #7   Report Post  
Pat M
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

Well from experience on a buddy's system that was done that was in a Honda
Passport utilizing 336is.2 upfront, A4im for rear fill and then a single BA
Pro 12.1 with dual 2 ohm coils it makes your hair stand.. All of this is
being run off of a P840.2. Why not see about getting a dvc BA sub to bring
it back to a 4 ohm load? Just a thought..

As for cooling you can do it the same way as pictured in the link that you
provided. Do to the location there is no way of mounting any sort of push
pull fan configuration but as long as you don't pack the back area that
would cause airflow problems then you will be fine.
--
Pat M.

"VW New Beetle owner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 at 03:03 GMT, Pat M wrote:

The amps are not rated at 2 ohm bridged configuration but if you
have plenty of cooling on it and are using the 2 ohm load for
front and rear speakers that is fine but if you plan on running a
set of subs at a 2 ohm load then I wouldn't even think about it..
No matter how much ventilation you give it with cooling fans it
will heat up and cause problems.


It happens that my intention was to power a sub I guess that idea
is out.

I am running a P650.2 in my wife's Tahoe and is running strong as
when it went in there 9-12 months ago. I am running a P850.2 in
my motorhome with a decked out surround sound system and still no
problems. As for flush mounting the product just make sure that
you have proper ventilation blowing across the heatsink and you
will be fine. If you can get a fan to blow on the back side of
the heat sink into the finned area that would help out also. I
would do some sort of push pull fan configuration..


The objective here is to flush mount the amps much the same way the
amps are flush mounted in this image:

http://www.theautophile.com/products...geraldamp1.gif

From looking at the picture on the a/d/s/ site, it looks like the
heat sinks are all on the top. Is that correct? The amp(s) will be
mounted on the back of the back seat of the New Beetle. If I just
get the 850.2, it will be horizontal, if I use the PQ40.2 and
P450.2, they will both be mounted vertically. Ideally I would like
to flush the amps to the top of the heat sinks, do you think this
would be feasible or do you think I should flush the amp to the
bottom of the heat sinks? Do you think there would be a need to
have push/pull fan for the inside of the casing?

I need a total of 7 channels. Along with the standard 5 channels
(2-front, 2-back, and 1-sub), I am going to be powering a set of
6.5" mid-bass drivers with a final set of amps. All the speakers
are Boston Acoustics ProSeries. Currently I can get my hands on
both a 12.5LF 4 ohm and 2 ohm for a steal. My concern with using
just the 850.2 is that the bridging channels 7&8 will not give me
enough power to drive the 4 ohm BA ProSeries 12.5FL. It is for this
reason I am considering using the P450.2 to drive the front and back
and then using the PQ40.2 to drive the mid-bass drivers and bridging
3&4 to power the 4-ohm BA ProSeries 12.5LF.

Any and all input you have is welcome.

EHC



  #8   Report Post  
John Durbin
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

The a/d/s/ amps are exactly the same as they ahd been prior to our
acquisition, other than some minor fixes we made to known problems. PPi
also had some improvements made to the existing PCX amps during 2002,
and new subs/speakers this year. Orion is 100% new for 2003, and in the
case of both the amps and subwoofers, noticeably improved as well.

JD

Mark Zarella wrote:

A number of sales people have also told EHC that a/d/s/, Orgion, and
PrecisionPower are all owned by the same company and non of the
stuff is really that good anymore. Is there any truth to the rumer
that a/d/s/ isn't very good anymore.



There's truth to a/d/s/, Orion, and PPI being owned by Directed
Electronics - a company that's in much better shape than the prior owner
ADST was. In any case, John Durbin can correct me here, but I don't think
any of those brands have changed in terms of electronics since Directed took
them over. The only thing that's changed so far is that the service has
gone from horrendous to very good.






  #9   Report Post  
John Durbin
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is the a/d/s/ 850.2 right for me?

The "old identity" had been unfortunately become part and parcel of the
attitude a lot of frustrated dealers and customers had with regards to
Orion. We needed to put the past behind us and move forward, hence our
"decision" to move to a new logo and all-new products for 2003 - which
in fact was already being planned by the folks in Phoenix when we came
along.

JD

Quigmeister Quigolator Quiganology wrote:

I think I found an amp that I am happy with: The a/d/s/ 850.2



Nice choice.



Is there any truth to the rumer
that a/d/s/ isn't very good anymore.



It's a shame that when people don't know what to say,
they say something stupid.
Whoever told you this doesn't know what to say.

Most of what MZ replied is true:
The manufacturing of many of the products is the same or better,
and the company behind the product is a whole lot better (and solvent)

The Orion amps are all diff. this year.
In fact, many don't like the change from the trademark
Red HCCA
Blue Cobalt
Black XTR and Pro
to the new brushed aluminum look across the whole line.
The insides are still great, but for some reason they choose
to waste the old identidy these amps had.

The A/D/S/ and PPI amps are in fact the same products carried over for a 2nd
(or 3rd) year.

Rather than rush out and change everything in every line, Directed has been
addressing the product lines/categories one at a time.

.

www.MAINSTREET-AUDIO.com
~ ~ ~ Where SERVICE never goes out of style ~ ~ ~

V I S I T O U R F O R U M
http://63.74.14.174/forum/phpBB2/index.php




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