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#2
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Dust and the Studio
maybe you could get one of those electrostatic filters for your forced air
unit. http://www.lennox.com/products/list_iaq.asp http://www.residential.carrier.com/p...t_airclean.htm I don't know if these things really do any good, but the marketing hype indicates that they add a layer of filtration for microscopic particles and dust that go right through normal forced air filters. I am sure that if they actually work, they require frequent cleaning to be most effective. A weekly chore is worth cleaner equipment. "unibrow" wrote in message news:vyIrb.160081$e01.572248@attbi_s02... I have quite a dust problem in my bedroom/studio. Aside from the weekly dusting, and keeping things covered, do you guys and gals use anything in particular to keep dust flow to a minimum? Thanks, Mike |
#3
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Dust and the Studio
Tracy Wintermute wrote:
On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 03:35:14 GMT, "2mb" wrote: maybe you could get one of those electrostatic filters for your forced air unit. In my experience, BAD idea. At my old place, the previous owner had one of these things installed due to allergies or some such. Are you familiar with the sounds a "bug zapper" makes? Pretty much the same deal with the electrostatic. Not only are the sounds audible ambiently, similar sounds also occur in the signal of any audio equipment hooked to the same leg (phase) of your in-house electrical distribution, not just the same circuit. And, the stuff 'broadcasts' to much of the equipment hooked to the other leg. I ended up with the thing being turned off most all the time. Admittedly, the technology may have progressed since then, but I remain sceptical. Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. And as others have mentioned, wall-to-wall carpet is an evil thing if you want to ensure any standard of cleanliness. |
#4
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Dust and the Studio
On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 03:35:14 GMT, "2mb"
wrote: maybe you could get one of those electrostatic filters for your forced air unit. In my experience, BAD idea. At my old place, the previous owner had one of these things installed due to allergies or some such. Are you familiar with the sounds a "bug zapper" makes? Pretty much the same deal with the electrostatic. Not only are the sounds audible ambiently, similar sounds also occur in the signal of any audio equipment hooked to the same leg (phase) of your in-house electrical distribution, not just the same circuit. And, the stuff 'broadcasts' to much of the equipment hooked to the other leg. I ended up with the thing being turned off most all the time. Admittedly, the technology may have progressed since then, but I remain sceptical. ==================== Tracy Wintermute Rushcreek Ranch ==================== |
#5
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Dust and the Studio
Given that a lot of forced air units are 220V, you probably wouldn't be able
to get a clean leg. My bad... I guess it would be a pain unless you put a remote to the thing all the way into your studio so you could turn it off when tracking or doing important monitoring... without a trip to the basement. "Tracy Wintermute" wrote in message ... On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 03:35:14 GMT, "2mb" wrote: maybe you could get one of those electrostatic filters for your forced air unit. In my experience, BAD idea. At my old place, the previous owner had one of these things installed due to allergies or some such. Are you familiar with the sounds a "bug zapper" makes? Pretty much the same deal with the electrostatic. Not only are the sounds audible ambiently, similar sounds also occur in the signal of any audio equipment hooked to the same leg (phase) of your in-house electrical distribution, not just the same circuit. And, the stuff 'broadcasts' to much of the equipment hooked to the other leg. I ended up with the thing being turned off most all the time. Admittedly, the technology may have progressed since then, but I remain sceptical. ==================== Tracy Wintermute Rushcreek Ranch ==================== |
#6
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Dust and the Studio
Hi_E? Where can you get one of these?
Kurt Albershardt wrote: Tracy Wintermute wrote: On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 03:35:14 GMT, "2mb" wrote: maybe you could get one of those electrostatic filters for your forced air unit. In my experience, BAD idea. At my old place, the previous owner had one of these things installed due to allergies or some such. Are you familiar with the sounds a "bug zapper" makes? Pretty much the same deal with the electrostatic. Not only are the sounds audible ambiently, similar sounds also occur in the signal of any audio equipment hooked to the same leg (phase) of your in-house electrical distribution, not just the same circuit. And, the stuff 'broadcasts' to much of the equipment hooked to the other leg. I ended up with the thing being turned off most all the time. Admittedly, the technology may have progressed since then, but I remain sceptical. Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. And as others have mentioned, wall-to-wall carpet is an evil thing if you want to ensure any standard of cleanliness. |
#7
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Dust and the Studio
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#8
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Dust and the Studio
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#9
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Dust and the Studio
Mike Rivers wrote: Well, you could turn it off when you're recording. In a home studio, it's unusual to have a quiet enough furnace/air conditioner fan so that you don't need to turn it off when recording anyway. I do. (recording season is rather limited around here) I am well familiar with that drill. I always thought about putting an off switch on a timer though, inevitably I always forget to turn it back on until it starts getting very cold/hot in the house.. |
#10
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Dust and the Studio
I think that's a Purolator trademark, but look in the Yellow Pages under
'Filters-Air & Gas' and there will be a few options. Common filter sizes sizes are available in 1", 2", and 4" depths, with correspondingly larger surface areas (allowing tighter filtration media to last longer.) My 16" x 25" x 2" filters were a whopping $4.16 ea. Robert Blank wrote: Hi_E? Where can you get one of these? Kurt Albershardt wrote: Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. And as others have mentioned, wall-to-wall carpet is an evil thing if you want to ensure any standard of cleanliness. |
#11
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Dust and the Studio
Mike Rivers wrote:
In article writes: Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. My furnace won't accommodate 2" filters, but I can buy 1" filters for as little as about fifty cents to as much as about $10. The $10 ones have an electret so they probably clog up faster than the less efficient ones. Just because I don't want to waste a lot of time studying this out, I buy the $2 ones that claim to last 90 days over the fifty cent ones that say they should be changed every 30 days. Since my furnace is in a crawl space under the living room, requiring that I go outside to change the filter, it's worth the extra half a buck per filter change to only change the filter four times a year rather than maybe 10. My c. 1945 oil furnace probably wasn't designed for 2" filters but they fit just fine. I change the 2" Hi-E 40 ones twice per Winter--about the same as the fiberglass cheapie that was in there previously. I'm noodling on a dust control system for when we build the new place. Very large ducts with very low velocity air movement, mostly convection-driven. Windows that don't have screens and don't open (except for fire exit) but plenty of clean, fresh air throughout the house. |
#12
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Dust and the Studio
So the difference is the thickness, not the composition?
Kurt Albershardt wrote: I think that's a Purolator trademark, but look in the Yellow Pages under 'Filters-Air & Gas' and there will be a few options. Common filter sizes sizes are available in 1", 2", and 4" depths, with correspondingly larger surface areas (allowing tighter filtration media to last longer.) My 16" x 25" x 2" filters were a whopping $4.16 ea. Robert Blank wrote: Hi_E? Where can you get one of these? Kurt Albershardt wrote: Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. And as others have mentioned, wall-to-wall carpet is an evil thing if you want to ensure any standard of cleanliness. |
#13
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Dust and the Studio
Both. The thicker profile with its deeper folds provides a larger
surface area, which allows you to use a tighter filter medium. Robert Blank wrote: So the difference is the thickness, not the composition? Kurt Albershardt wrote: I think that's a Purolator trademark, but look in the Yellow Pages under 'Filters-Air & Gas' and there will be a few options. Common filter sizes sizes are available in 1", 2", and 4" depths, with correspondingly larger surface areas (allowing tighter filtration media to last longer.) My 16" x 25" x 2" filters were a whopping $4.16 ea. Robert Blank wrote: Hi_E? Where can you get one of these? Kurt Albershardt wrote: Definitely start by getting your ducts cleaned regularly and using better filters which are changed regularly. Changing out the 1" fiberglass filter for a 2" Hi-E 40 made a major difference here. |
#14
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Dust and the Studio
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#15
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Dust and the Studio
On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 07:58:58 GMT, "2mb"
wrote: Given that a lot of forced air units are 220V, Mine was on a gas furnace ( no air conditioner/heat pump.) The electrostatic unit was definitely 120V ( popularly called 110V.) Sorry that I had not clarified that in my other post. ==================== Tracy Wintermute Rushcreek Ranch ==================== |