[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

[Bret L]

On May 21, 12:16*am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Are you even slightly aware of what makes a certaijn cart work with a
certain arm? No, because your IQ is too low. You're an imbecile at
best, bordering on an idiot.

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 12:39*am, Bret L wrote:
On May 21, 12:16*am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Are you even slightly aware of what makes a certaijn cart work with a
certain arm? No, because your IQ is too low. You're an imbecile at
best, bordering on an idiot.

LOL! Pardon me for asking opinions about audio on an audio opinion
group. I should've posted this, apparently, to a Nazi group. LOL!

Are you referrng to compliance, etc.?

No, Bratzi, you are too ignorant to know how stoopid you appear to
everybody else. Never mind.

[hophead]

In article 9ec62e8d-22f6-4213-8ed3-8595096adf17
@m33g2000vbi.googlegroups.com, says...

Boon recommended an Ortofon.

That was my recommendation, too, but at the time I was thinking of the
2M Red, which is very good at around $100.00.

I see you are willing to spend more than that - perhaps an Ortofon 2M
Blue?

A lot of people seem to love the AT440MLa which would also fit your
budget.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

I don't have any experience with the Denon Carts. I know the DL103 is
legendary.

If you are considering MC carts, what are you using for a phono stage?

While it's not exactly the same thing, I have a modified Goldring MM
cart on a modified RB250: the cart is sold as the AudioNote IQ 2 and the
arm as the AudioNote Arm 1, with both products rewired and modded by
AudioNote. The synergy is delightful, and I suspect that Goldring carts
in general will work well with Rega tone arms.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 12:16�am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 12:16�am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 12:19�pm, hophead wrote:
In article 9ec62e8d-22f6-4213-8ed3-8595096adf17
@m33g2000vbi.googlegroups.com, says...



Boon recommended an Ortofon.

That was my recommendation, too, but at the time I was thinking of the
2M Red, which is very good at around $100.00.

I see you are willing to spend more than that - perhaps an Ortofon 2M
Blue?

A lot of people seem to love the AT440MLa which would also fit your
budget.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

I don't have any experience with the Denon Carts. I know the DL103 is
legendary.

If you are considering MC carts, what are you using for a phono stage?

While it's not exactly the same thing, I have a modified Goldring MM
cart on a modified RB250: the cart is sold as the AudioNote IQ 2 and the
arm as the AudioNote Arm 1, with both products rewired and modded by
AudioNote. The synergy is delightful, and I suspect that Goldring carts
in general will work well with Rega tone arms.

Goldring does work well with Rega arms. They've always sounded much
better than the Rega carts IMO.

[hophead]

In article a3f42557-b91c-4779-a6b0-
,
says...

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

This looks like the consensus recommendation - I haven't heard the Blue,
but I know the Red is a great deal and I'd assume the Blue builds on and
improves some of the good things the Red does.


But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Heh...

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:
On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 12:19*pm, hophead wrote:
says...

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

I don't have any experience with the Denon Carts. I know the DL103 is
legendary.

If you are considering MC carts, what are you using for a phono stage?

Right now it's just the phono inputs on an Adcom preamp, hence the
high output requrement. I was considering a DL-160, but it looks like
Ortofon is the consensus opinion. I am upgrading the electro-
mechanical aspects of the stereo I have with me. I'll worry about
upgrading the electronics later.

According to Bratzi I'm too stupid to use a step up transformer. I
don't want to disappoint the poor blighted moron.

Besides, I can't solder. I can only glue, nail or rivet.

((I can also screw but I hesitate to mention that. Bratzi will get all
worked up and start some moronic Marilyn Monroe thread. Then he'll
start frantically masturbating and miss work again. Then he'll get
fired. They've already warned him. And I don't want to be responsible
for that. Shhhh!))

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 3:21*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
On May 21, 12:19*pm, hophead wrote:
says...

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

I don't have any experience with the Denon Carts. I know the DL103 is
legendary.

If you are considering MC carts, what are you using for a phono stage?

Right now it's just the phono inputs on an Adcom preamp, hence the
high output requrement. I was considering a DL-160, but it looks like
Ortofon is the consensus opinion. I am upgrading the electro-
mechanical aspects of the stereo I have with me. I'll worry about
upgrading the electronics later.

The DL-160 is a nice cart for a dark-sounding 'tabel like a Technics
SL1200, but it's a bit lively and airy and can be too much of a good
thing on a Rega.

[Bret L]

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:
On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"



wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

Doofuses both.

Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Vinylsnatch doesn't appear to know anything about it either. But
Arny, for all his faults, probably did if he would deign to share his
knowledge.

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:
On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

You are egregiously defective, Bratzi. I would guess mental issues
such as those that you display are beyond the reach of current
treatments.

Wow.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Oh, kind of like where I answered your inane stoopid comment earlier?

Let's revisit that exchange! LOL!

**********
Are you even slightly aware of what makes a certaijn cart work with a
certain arm? No, because your IQ is too low. You're an imbecile at
best, bordering on an idiot.

LOL! Pardon me for asking opinions about audio on an audio opinion
group. I should've posted this, apparently, to a Nazi group. LOL!

Are you referrng to compliance, etc.?

No, Bratzi, you are too ignorant to know how stoopid you appear to
everybody else. Never mind.
**********

That last comment by me remains incredibly accurate if I do say so
myself. LOL!

*Vinylsnatch doesn't appear to know anything about it either. But
Arny, for all his faults, probably did if he would deign to share his
knowledge.

Now this makes total sense to me. Crazy people worshipping other crazy
people is like a double-negative, and is therefore 'logical' and
'normal'.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:
On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:





On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.


*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.


*Vinylsnatch doesn't appear to know anything about it either.

What crap. You know I've mounted more cartridges than you've SEEN.
You're just trolling.

But
Arny, for all his faults, probably did if he would deign to share his
knowledge.-

Which is why he asked for my help--under an alias--via email.

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 12:27*pm, Boon wrote:
On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

I think I can use rivets instead of the heavier counterweight.

I'll look into the 2M Blue and report back as soon as I have it
soldered in place.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:
On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:





On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore..
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.
That explains why Phillips Rega setup honked at 30 hz.

For any lurkers interested in some facts and reality rather than Marc
Phillips, aka vinylignoramus, uninformed comments you can still find
useful information on the web.

Here's a table of cart specs showing the range of comliance is ~8 to
~30 x10e-6 cm/dyne.

http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php

You should consult the cart manufacturers web site for current specs
of any cart you're considering.

Here's a decent explanation of the mechanics.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartrid...m_matching.htm

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

All these variables lead to the need for a decent test record to check
out resonance freq. *Something any knowledgeable vinylphile will own,
but IIRC, Marc has never bothered to acquire or learn how to use one.
Anyway, with a cart of known compliance, a person can use the test
record to determine resonant freq and then calculate the equivalent
mass of their arm setup.
Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

Phillips statement that all modern arms/carts are a resonable match is
simply ignorant. *He even pointed out earlier that some carts weight
are too great for the basic tonearms counterbalance so it would appear
that he has contradicted his own foolish claim even before he wrote
it.

It's nice that you're actually participating in an audio thread for
once, instead of one of your idiotic OT political posts. And some of
what you said above is true. (But bringing up the 30 Hz honk again
when we established it was your room and not some mismatch between the
compliance of the arm and the cartridge? That must be your autism
speaking.)

The problem, of course, is that you didn't understand what I said. The
simple fact is that with the proper tools, you can mate just about any
modern cartridge with any modern arm. That's where heavy
counterweights come in. You can also use headshells in this way. You
only really have to worry about gross mismatches when dealing with
older equipment or some of the more esoteric products out there. Shhh!
was talking about a Rega arm, and there aren't too many carts out
there that don't work with Rega arms. Even the newer Grados seem to
work just fine without humming. The modern TT market, which you know
nothing about, dictates this convenience. The only guys who are
sweating this stuff are people like you who think their ****ty old
Mitsubishi TTs are worth keeping.

It's funny that you say I contradicted my claim, and then you prove
what I said was true by mentioning the counterbalance.

So this makes you 0-6 when challenging me on audio. But by all means
keep trying, Scott!

[Bret L]

On May 22, 11:04*am, Boon wrote:
On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:



On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon..))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.
That explains why Phillips Rega setup honked at 30 hz.

For any lurkers interested in some facts and reality rather than Marc
Phillips, aka vinylignoramus, uninformed comments you can still find
useful information on the web.

Here's a table of cart specs showing the range of comliance is ~8 to
~30 x10e-6 cm/dyne.

http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php

You should consult the cart manufacturers web site for current specs
of any cart you're considering.

Here's a decent explanation of the mechanics.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartrid...m_matching.htm

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

All these variables lead to the need for a decent test record to check
out resonance freq. *Something any knowledgeable vinylphile will own,
but IIRC, Marc has never bothered to acquire or learn how to use one.
Anyway, with a cart of known compliance, a person can use the test
record to determine resonant freq and then calculate the equivalent
mass of their arm setup.
Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

Phillips statement that all modern arms/carts are a resonable match is
simply ignorant. *He even pointed out earlier that some carts weight
are too great for the basic tonearms counterbalance so it would appear
that he has contradicted his own foolish claim even before he wrote
it.

It's nice that you're actually participating in an audio thread for
once, instead of one of your idiotic OT political posts. And some of
what you said above is true. (But bringing up the 30 Hz honk again
when we established it was your room and not some mismatch between the
compliance of the arm and the cartridge? That must be your autism
speaking.)

The problem, of course, is that you didn't understand what I said. The
simple fact is that with the proper tools, you can mate just about any
modern cartridge with any modern arm. That's where heavy
counterweights come in. You can also use headshells in this way. You
only really have to worry about gross mismatches when dealing with
older equipment or some of the more esoteric products out there. Shhh!
was talking about a Rega arm, and there aren't too many carts out
there that don't work with Rega arms. Even the newer Grados seem to
work just fine without humming.

The hum issue with Grados had nothing to do with arms, but with
unshielded AC motors, as found on the AR and Linn. In the case of the
Linn it proved that ol' Tief was and is a huckster because at that
price point there was no excuse whatsoever.

As far as the use of counterweights and headshell mass differences,
you should have explained that up front. You chose not to and
maintained that "everything works with everything now" which is
insane. Given the insane pricing of tone arms and carts today vis-a-
vis build costs (and no, there are no large teams of college degreed
engineers that are needed for development on any of this stuff) the
optimization of these factors is crucial to getting better than Rheem
Califone performance from these high dollar setups.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 22, 11:14*am, Bret L wrote:
On May 22, 11:04*am, Boon wrote:





On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.
That explains why Phillips Rega setup honked at 30 hz.

For any lurkers interested in some facts and reality rather than Marc
Phillips, aka vinylignoramus, uninformed comments you can still find
useful information on the web.

Here's a table of cart specs showing the range of comliance is ~8 to
~30 x10e-6 cm/dyne.

http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php

You should consult the cart manufacturers web site for current specs
of any cart you're considering.

Here's a decent explanation of the mechanics.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartrid...m_matching.htm

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

All these variables lead to the need for a decent test record to check
out resonance freq. *Something any knowledgeable vinylphile will own,
but IIRC, Marc has never bothered to acquire or learn how to use one.
Anyway, with a cart of known compliance, a person can use the test
record to determine resonant freq and then calculate the equivalent
mass of their arm setup.
Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

Phillips statement that all modern arms/carts are a resonable match is
simply ignorant. *He even pointed out earlier that some carts weight
are too great for the basic tonearms counterbalance so it would appear
that he has contradicted his own foolish claim even before he wrote
it.

It's nice that you're actually participating in an audio thread for
once, instead of one of your idiotic OT political posts. And some of
what you said above is true. (But bringing up the 30 Hz honk again
when we established it was your room and not some mismatch between the
compliance of the arm and the cartridge? That must be your autism
speaking.)

The problem, of course, is that you didn't understand what I said. The
simple fact is that with the proper tools, you can mate just about any
modern cartridge with any modern arm. That's where heavy
counterweights come in. You can also use headshells in this way. You
only really have to worry about gross mismatches when dealing with
older equipment or some of the more esoteric products out there. Shhh!
was talking about a Rega arm, and there aren't too many carts out
there that don't work with Rega arms. Even the newer Grados seem to
work just fine without humming.

*The hum issue with Grados had nothing to do with arms, but with
unshielded AC motors, as found on the AR and Linn. In the case of the
Linn it proved that ol' Tief was and is a huckster because at that
price point there was no excuse whatsoever.

Yes. And the newer Grados don't have this problem. That supports my
point that most of the cartridges and arms now sold are pretty much
compatible, because the market dictates it. Notice that the link Scott
supplied deals with older cartridges (which, IMO, shouldn't be used at
all) and older arms.


*As far as the use of counterweights and headshell mass differences,
you should have explained that up front. You chose not to and
maintained that "everything works with everything now" which is
insane.

Wrong. I said that most "modern" arm/carts are designed to work with
each other these days. The counterweight was already part of the
discussion.

You see, that's how normal conversations work. You say something, I
respond, you elaborate, I elaborate. I know you probably don't talk to
many people in the real world, but not everyone opens with a long,
boring treatise like you do.


*Given the insane pricing of tone arms and carts today vis-a-
vis build costs (and no, there are no large teams of college degreed
engineers that are needed for development on any of this stuff) the
optimization of these factors is crucial to getting better than Rheem
Califone performance from these high dollar setups.

So I'll throw the question out to both you and Scott...what currently
sold arms and carts will absolutely not work with each other? I'll
admit that there are probably some, but I'm thinking neither of you
know of any, and you're just relying upon what you learned back in
Electronics 101 in high school.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 22, 11:53*am, Boon wrote:
On May 22, 11:14*am, Bret L wrote:





On May 22, 11:04*am, Boon wrote:

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.
That explains why Phillips Rega setup honked at 30 hz.

For any lurkers interested in some facts and reality rather than Marc
Phillips, aka vinylignoramus, uninformed comments you can still find
useful information on the web.

Here's a table of cart specs showing the range of comliance is ~8 to
~30 x10e-6 cm/dyne.

http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php

You should consult the cart manufacturers web site for current specs
of any cart you're considering.

Here's a decent explanation of the mechanics.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartrid...m_matching.htm

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

All these variables lead to the need for a decent test record to check
out resonance freq. *Something any knowledgeable vinylphile will own,
but IIRC, Marc has never bothered to acquire or learn how to use one.
Anyway, with a cart of known compliance, a person can use the test
record to determine resonant freq and then calculate the equivalent
mass of their arm setup.
Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

Phillips statement that all modern arms/carts are a resonable match is
simply ignorant. *He even pointed out earlier that some carts weight
are too great for the basic tonearms counterbalance so it would appear
that he has contradicted his own foolish claim even before he wrote
it.

It's nice that you're actually participating in an audio thread for
once, instead of one of your idiotic OT political posts. And some of
what you said above is true. (But bringing up the 30 Hz honk again
when we established it was your room and not some mismatch between the
compliance of the arm and the cartridge? That must be your autism
speaking.)

The problem, of course, is that you didn't understand what I said. The
simple fact is that with the proper tools, you can mate just about any
modern cartridge with any modern arm. That's where heavy
counterweights come in. You can also use headshells in this way. You
only really have to worry about gross mismatches when dealing with
older equipment or some of the more esoteric products out there. Shhh!
was talking about a Rega arm, and there aren't too many carts out
there that don't work with Rega arms. Even the newer Grados seem to
work just fine without humming.

*The hum issue with Grados had nothing to do with arms, but with
unshielded AC motors, as found on the AR and Linn. In the case of the
Linn it proved that ol' Tief was and is a huckster because at that
price point there was no excuse whatsoever.

Yes. And the newer Grados don't have this problem. That supports my
point that most of the cartridges and arms now sold are pretty much
compatible, because the market dictates it. Notice that the link Scott
supplied deals with older cartridges (which, IMO, shouldn't be used at
all) and older arms.



*As far as the use of counterweights and headshell mass differences,
you should have explained that up front. You chose not to and
maintained that "everything works with everything now" which is
insane.

Wrong. I said that most "modern" arm/carts are designed to work with
each other these days. The counterweight was already part of the
discussion.

You see, that's how normal conversations work. You say something, I
respond, you elaborate, I elaborate. I know you probably don't talk to
many people in the real world, but not everyone opens with a long,
boring treatise like you do.

**Given the insane pricing of tone arms and carts today vis-a-

vis build costs (and no, there are no large teams of college degreed
engineers that are needed for development on any of this stuff) the
optimization of these factors is crucial to getting better than Rheem
Califone performance from these high dollar setups.

So I'll throw the question out to both you and Scott...what currently
sold arms and carts will absolutely not work with each other? I'll
admit that there are probably some, but I'm thinking neither of you
know of any, and you're just relying upon what you learned back in
Electronics 101 in high school.- Hide quoted text -

Just realized I made a mistake...indeed the hum on a Grado/AR or Rega
combo has nothing to do with the arm. I was just thinking of broader
terms of analog mismatches.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

So let me ask you a question, genius. Why are you talking about
detachable headshells when the OP has an RB-250? Is this YOUR ignorant
approach to audio advice? LoL.

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:
On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:





On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore..
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.

Have you read any good books lately?

What cartridge would you recommend for an RB-250 arm?

What speakers do you like that are under $1,000/pr? Somebody as averse
to being an "audiophool" would certainly have some recommendations on
that one.

Oh, by the way: I've initiated 3-400% more audio-related discussions
than you have.

What an imbecile. LoL.

[Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 22, 4:59*pm, ScottW wrote:
On May 22, 9:04*am, Boon wrote:





On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

On May 21, 9:46*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 5:12*pm, Bret L wrote:

On May 21, 4:54*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 3:02*pm, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:20*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

How about a Denon hi-output MC? What other options do you feel works
well with this arm?

Hm. How about under $250?

Ortofon 2M Blue. It's $199. I've heard it on a couple of Rega arm/
tables now, and it's a great match.

But I must warn you that unless you know how to solder, you don't
deserve it.

Can I rivet instead?

((Riveting has always been for sissies. Anyone can grab a riveting gun
and rivet a feral cat to the hood of a car. Soldering takes a lot more
knowledge, especially when it comes to fusing bone to metal. Boon.))

*Doofuses both.

*Riveting actually is more of an art than soldering. I mean real
riveting, with a riveter and bucking bars. But it isn't how you join
electrical connections, usually. A cart install usually doesn't
involve soldering anyway, so this is a stupid comment in the first
place.

No, we're making fun of you, and you're way too stupid (and/or
autistic) to figure it out.

*My point is that there is a purpose to matching carts and arms that
involves the compliance of the cartridge, the mass of the tone arm,
and several other factors. Few seem to know anything about it anymore.
There used to be some good articles on it in hi fi magazines but since
the late 70s it has become a black art. Stereopile and the like do not
like procedure, rigor or science, so you won't find it there.

Yes, that's true. But if you actually had any recent experience with
this, you'd know that just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer.

LoL. * What a complete moron.
That explains why Phillips Rega setup honked at 30 hz.

For any lurkers interested in some facts and reality rather than Marc
Phillips, aka vinylignoramus, uninformed comments you can still find
useful information on the web.

Here's a table of cart specs showing the range of comliance is ~8 to
~30 x10e-6 cm/dyne.

http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php

You should consult the cart manufacturers web site for current specs
of any cart you're considering.

Here's a decent explanation of the mechanics.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/cartrid...m_matching.htm

No rocket science but obviously way over Phillips ignorant approach to
vinyl playback.

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

All these variables lead to the need for a decent test record to check
out resonance freq. *Something any knowledgeable vinylphile will own,
but IIRC, Marc has never bothered to acquire or learn how to use one.
Anyway, with a cart of known compliance, a person can use the test
record to determine resonant freq and then calculate the equivalent
mass of their arm setup.
Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

Phillips statement that all modern arms/carts are a resonable match is
simply ignorant. *He even pointed out earlier that some carts weight
are too great for the basic tonearms counterbalance so it would appear
that he has contradicted his own foolish claim even before he wrote
it.

It's nice that you're actually participating in an audio thread for
once, instead of one of your idiotic OT political posts. And some of
what you said above is true. (But bringing up the 30 Hz honk again
when we established it was your room

LoL. *funny that the room creates no problem for my arm/cart.
Actually it was probably your silly waste of a (non)isolation table
that contributed to your lame setups issues but you'll never really
know
as you lack the knowledge to figure it out.

I can only imagine how 'good' a Mitsubishi mid-fi turntable can sound.
I'm sure it's 'extraordinary'.

and not some mismatch between the
compliance of the arm and the cartridge? That must be your autism
speaking.)

The problem, of course, is that you didn't understand what I said.

"just about every modern arm can matched to just
about any modern cartridge. They do that on purpose so that there are
more options to the consumer. "

It is a trainwreck of a statement.

It isn't if English is your native language. Here's a primer for you
to read:

"Happily, most of the popular, modem-day moving coil (and many moving
magnet) cartridges and the current crop of medium mass tonearms
represent a fairly good match."

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/how...cartridge.html

That pretty much says the same thing that Boon said.

The effective mass of the stock RB-250 arm is 12 grams. That places it
in the "medium mass" category.

I believe you use an Audio Technica cartridge. Your Mitsubishi must
have a higher mass arm, yes?

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

Most manufacturers only provide the relatively useless low, medium,
high.

"Most" must mean "mid-fi". LoL.

I see no issues getting arm mass specs. Perhaps you should consider,
though, that as Boon pointed out they aren't as important with modern
arms and turntables.

I used the Excel spreadsheet you provided. Using the RB-250's mass of
12 I plugged in various weights and compliances for several catridges.
There were a couple that might be of concern that were in the high 7s
for resonant frequency. These were very heavy high-compliance MC
designs that were over $3500. Every single one of the cartridges that
were between $100 and $600 were fine, which is about the most you'd
expect to be mounted onto a P2. I could not find one that wasn't.
Perhaps you or Bratzi can.

Don't worry, 2pid. I'll not be mounting a cartridge that costs over
seven or eight times what I paid for the turntable/arm. I wouldn't
advise that you put one that's that expensive on your POS Mitsubishi
either. LoL.

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

Sumiko doesn't have a removeable headshell any more, 2pid. You're
talking the 1980s.

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/sme/prod_model2012.htm

PS: The mass of that arm is 12, just like my RB-250. LoL.

My AT shell weighs under 6. * All these factors come into play in
matching an arm and a cart. * A small change in mass at the cart end
of the arm is a large change in mass at the counterbalance as well.

ALERT! ALERT! ALERT! IF YOU'RE TRYING TO KEEP A POS 30-YEAR OLD TABLE
OPERATING OUT OF A SENSE OF NOSTALGIA, THEN CAREFULLY HEED 2PID'S
WORDS! (If you're interested in good fidelity, maybe not so much.)

Go to NeedleDoctor.com and tell us all how many modern tables or arms
have removeable headshells, dum-dum. Not even SME does any more. I
only saw the Ortofon arms and a Denon table that did. Go find more and
earn valuable prizes!

You're stuck in the 1980s which explains your mullet. LoL.

LoL. As Boon said, "Most modern arms will work with most modern
cartridges". You've done nothing to prove him wrong but sadly you've
exposed yourself as an imbecile...again.

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 23, 1:44*pm, ScottW wrote:
On May 22, 9:23*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

Sumiko doesn't have a removeable headshell any more, 2pid. You're
talking the 1980s.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Sumiko-HS12-Headshell

I really wish you actually knew something.
Instead all you do is shout people down.
You should leave the group.

On their turntables, dum-dum, which are SME. SME doesn't use
removeable headshells. Headshells for crapola legacy turntables like
yours don't count. LoL.

I even provided a link to Sumiko products that you cut.

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/sme/prod_model2012.htm

Note the lack of removeable headshells in their line. LoL.

I really wish you weren't suffering from mental disorders.

Meanwhile, you cut this, which is the basis of your little foot-
stamping rants against Boon:

**********
Go to NeedleDoctor.com and tell us all how many modern tables or arms
have removeable headshells, dum-dum. Not even SME does any more. I
only saw the Ortofon arms and a Denon table that did. Go find more
and
earn valuable prizes!

You're stuck in the 1980s which explains your mullet. LoL.

LoL. As Boon said, "Most modern arms will work with most modern
cartridges". You've done nothing to prove him wrong but sadly you've
exposed yourself as an imbecile...again.
**********

As usual, you got nothing. LoL.

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 23, 1:44*pm, ScottW wrote:

Instead all you do is shout people down.

Gosh, 2pid, I tried polite discussion with you and got nowhere. Why is
that? LoL.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 23, 1:44*pm, ScottW wrote:
On May 22, 9:23*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 22, 9:38*am, ScottW wrote:

Notice in the resonant frequency equation that headshell and hardware
is a factor.
I've got 3 shells that span a range of more than 2-1 in mass. *Here's
an Ortofon shellhttp://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-LH-2000-Headshell
weighing in at 12 grams. *Solid aluminum. *IIRC, the Sumiko shells are
even more.

Sumiko doesn't have a removeable headshell any more, 2pid. You're
talking the 1980s.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Sumiko-HS12-Headshell

I really wish you actually knew something.
Instead all you do is shout people down.
You should leave the group.

I just proved you as an audio fraud...again.

You should leave the group.

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 21, 12:27*pm, Boon wrote:
On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

I have a line on a new MC-3 Turbo for less than a 2M Blue. Thoughts?

[hophead]

In article f046e28e-031f-4839-94d2-08532d230259
@m4g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...

I have a line on a new MC-3 Turbo for less than a 2M Blue. Thoughts?

Unfortunately, I only have experience with the Ortofon MM carts so I
can't comment. Perhaps Boon has some experience with their MC carts...

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 26, 11:40*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
On May 21, 12:27*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

I have a line on a new MC-3 Turbo for less than a 2M Blue. Thoughts?

Sorry...I haven't heard that Ortofon. Then again, I haven't heard a
bad Ortofon other than the OM-5s they put on Rega P1s.

[Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!]

On May 27, 4:40*pm, Boon wrote:
On May 26, 11:40*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"





wrote:
On May 21, 12:27*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

I have a line on a new MC-3 Turbo for less than a 2M Blue. Thoughts?

Sorry...I haven't heard that Ortofon. Then again, I haven't heard a
bad Ortofon other than the OM-5s they put on Rega P1s.

The price is right. I think I'll risk it. If the experiment fails I'll
move to a 2M Blue.

[Boon[_2_]]

On May 28, 2:30*am, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"
wrote:
On May 27, 4:40*pm, Boon wrote:





On May 26, 11:40*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On May 21, 12:27*pm, Boon wrote:

On May 21, 12:16 am, "Shhhh! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
Boon recommended an Ortofon.

I didn't see where you already noted my opinion. Still, I'm kind of
excited about the match the 2M Blue and 2M Red make with the Rega P2
and P3.

Honestly, I think you'd have to go with a Dynavector 10X5 to make a
significant improvement. (Dynavectors are fantastic matches for Regas,
but they start at almost $400.) I use the Zu Audio DL-103 on my P3-24,
which is a modded Denon, but you need the heavier counterweight to
make it work right...otherwise you'll have the stock weight all the
way to the back of the arm wand.

I have a line on a new MC-3 Turbo for less than a 2M Blue. Thoughts?

Sorry...I haven't heard that Ortofon. Then again, I haven't heard a
bad Ortofon other than the OM-5s they put on Rega P1s.

The price is right. I think I'll risk it. If the experiment fails I'll
move to a 2M Blue.

The MC-3 Turbo uses the same body and was developed around the same
time as the X3-MC. I owned the X5-MC for many years and it was a great
cartridge...back in the 80s. My only reservation about the MC-3 Turbo
is that it's an older design. The 2M line is getting almost unanimous
praise among audiophiles right now, and it represents the latest in
Ortofon's R&D. So my gut feeling is that the 2M Blue would be the
better cart, but if you can get a screaming deal on the MC-3 Turbo,
then it will probably be worth it. Some people have reservations about
the FAT cantilever on the Turbo, though, feeling that it may be
borrowed from a much less expensive design.