[badboyallmylife]

I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

[Peter Wieck]

On Nov 29, 10:19 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:
I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

Larry:

Those are remarkably simple amps. And you can do everything a tech
could do at a fraction of the cost and learn something too. If you
wish to discuss it off-line, contact me directly.

By the way, does it have glass or phenolic boards? That makes a
difference. Glass is good, phenolic is bad. Not unsalvageable, but you
*must* pay attention to them in order for them to be designated
'safe', or you can replace them with glass boards - another 'good
learning' exercise.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[badboyallmylife]

On Nov 29, 10:38 pm, Peter Wieck wrote:
On Nov 29, 10:19 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:





I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

Larry:

Those are remarkably simple amps. And you can do everything a tech
could do at a fraction of the cost and learn something too. If you
wish to discuss it off-line, contact me directly.

By the way, does it have glass or phenolic boards? That makes a
difference. Glass is good, phenolic is bad. Not unsalvageable, but you
*must* pay attention to them in order for them to be designated
'safe', or you can replace them with glass boards - another 'good
learning' exercise.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Brown boards so I assume they are phenolic. Glass is green? I
appreciate your offer and I may delve into it but it seems time is a
larger factor than money. I have three other projects in various
states of rebuilds and this one will have to go to the bottom of the
list. I really want to hear this thing "sing" before Easter. LOL
Larry in Atlanta

[Jon Yaeger]

in article
,
badboyallmylife at wrote on 11/29/07 10:19 PM:

I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta


I'm somewhat pressed for time but maybe I can help you.

I'm in the Northlake area.

Jon

[Peter Wieck]

On Nov 29, 10:44 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:

Brown boards so I assume they are phenolic. Glass is green? I
appreciate your offer and I may delve into it but it seems time is a
larger factor than money. I have three other projects in various
states of rebuilds and this one will have to go to the bottom of the
list. I really want to hear this thing "sing" before Easter.

Yep, brown means phenolic boards. Glass boards will be either blue or
green, mostly green. You can overcome most of the phenolic board
failures by remaking all the solder-joints at the tube sockets, then
overlaying the traces with a couple of strands of fine copper wire and
new solder BE CAREFUL OF MAKING BRIDGES. Replace the caps with good-
quality film caps (600V or better), pay careful attention to and/or
replace the electrolytics and you are about as far as you can go
without modification of the original circuit. On the electrolytics,
you will be surprised at how few failures you will see on this
particular unit - unlike the 70. But do check them thoroughly and if
there is the slightest doubt, replace them. Given that this thing has
silicon rectifiers you can actually reform the caps with a variac (and
great care) - one of the few where that is possible.

You can also put a roll-switch on the power-cord if you want it to be
able to be switched separately from your pre-amp or your pre-amp lacks
switched outlets, something that can be useful. Be sure that any
switch you use is rated at least at 2A so as not to flash at turn-on.

They are sweet little amps and generally very well behaved.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[West]

"badboyallmylife" wrote in message
...
I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

I do not believe that my 2 esteem colleagues understand the crux of your
dilemma. Perhaps I can shed some light on the issue. An ST-35 was a good
value for the dollar in its hey day but not worth much in today's market.
You got a good deal but not a great one. This NG basically is a DIY group.
We all cut our teeth by tackling similar type problems ourselves. IOW, the
value of what you have is that the ST-35 is an excellent way to learn about
making, modifying, and restoring tube equipment, but is not worth paying
someone to fix it. Just my $.02 FWIW.

west

[Ernst]

On Nov 29, 9:19 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:
I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

Nice catch. What do you want to do with it? Conserve it as a museum
piece, or listen with it?

Ernst

[Peter Wieck]

On Nov 30, 10:37 pm, Bret Ludwig wrote:
Yep, brown means phenolic boards. Glass boards will be either blue or
green, mostly green. You can overcome most of the phenolic board
failures by remaking all the solder-joints at the tube sockets, then
overlaying the traces with a couple of strands of fine copper wire and
new solder BE CAREFUL OF MAKING BRIDGES. Replace the caps with good-
quality film caps (600V or better), pay careful attention to and/or
replace the electrolytics and you are about as far as you can go
without modification of the original circuit. On the electrolytics,
you will be surprised at how few failures you will see on this
particular unit - unlike the 70. But do check them thoroughly and if
there is the slightest doubt, replace them. Given that this thing has
silicon rectifiers you can actually reform the caps with a variac (and
great care) - one of the few where that is possible.

You can also put a roll-switch on the power-cord if you want it to be
able to be switched separately from your pre-amp or your pre-amp lacks
switched outlets, something that can be useful. Be sure that any
switch you use is rated at least at 2A so as not to flash at turn-on.

They are sweet little amps and generally very well behaved.

Actually they are too sweet, too euphonic, for my taste, but in
properly refurbed stock shape they do a decent job with very efficient
speakers or for bedroom audio. The phono stage is a limitation.

Reforming caps is a job best done with a bench supply, but of course
if you have a variac you already have much of a good DC bench supply.
Just put an old power transformer in a salvaged PC power supply case
or other enclosure with some diodes and caps and you are good to go.
Use a high value series resistor for cap forming operations!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No phono stage on the ST-35. Get a grip, Bret.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[Peter Wieck]

On Nov 30, 10:55 pm, "West" wrote:

An ST-35 was a good
value for the dollar in its hey day but not worth much in today's market.
You got a good deal but not a great one. This NG basically is a DIY group.
We all cut our teeth by tackling similar type problems ourselves. IOW, the
value of what you have is that the ST-35 is an excellent way to learn about
making, modifying, and restoring tube equipment, but is not worth paying
someone to fix it. Just my $.02 FWIW.

Pillock, pillock, pillock:

Not just a pillock, but a pretentious one at that.

The ST-35 was in its day about the least expensive, well-designed pure
power amp with good iron on the market. It remains an excellent
example of that species, and even as "stock" will give long and
reliable service with basic care. It uses common and inexpensive tubes
and many other virtues.

That the pillock chooses to give you distorted information would be
merely a reflection of his expectations from tubes. This "NG" is
dedicated to the care and feeding of tube audio equipment in all its
manifestations and in all aspects from restoration and basic
maintenance to upgrades and then all the way to DIY from trees, ore
and copper billets. Therefore it (should) serves anyone at any level
with any questions within the hobby. That pillock and his "boss"
should choose to hijack the group for their own and purposes with
usually dubious results is, once again, no more than pretentious.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[Arny Krueger]

"Peter Wieck" wrote in message

On Nov 30, 10:37 pm, Bret Ludwig
wrote:
Yep, brown means phenolic boards. Glass boards will be
either blue or green, mostly green. You can overcome
most of the phenolic board failures by remaking all the
solder-joints at the tube sockets, then overlaying the
traces with a couple of strands of fine copper wire and
new solder BE CAREFUL OF MAKING BRIDGES. Replace the
caps with good- quality film caps (600V or better), pay
careful attention to and/or replace the electrolytics
and you are about as far as you can go without
modification of the original circuit. On the
electrolytics, you will be surprised at how few
failures you will see on this particular unit - unlike
the 70. But do check them thoroughly and if there is
the slightest doubt, replace them. Given that this
thing has silicon rectifiers you can actually reform
the caps with a variac (and great care) - one of the
few where that is possible.

You can also put a roll-switch on the power-cord if you
want it to be able to be switched separately from your
pre-amp or your pre-amp lacks switched outlets,
something that can be useful. Be sure that any switch
you use is rated at least at 2A so as not to flash at
turn-on.

They are sweet little amps and generally very well
behaved.

Actually they are too sweet, too euphonic, for my
taste, but in
properly refurbed stock shape they do a decent job with
very efficient
speakers or for bedroom audio. The phono stage is a
limitation.

Reforming caps is a job best done with a bench supply,
but of course
if you have a variac you already have much of a good DC
bench supply.
Just put an old power transformer in a salvaged PC power
supply case
or other enclosure with some diodes and caps and you are
good to go.
Use a high value series resistor for cap forming
operations!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No phono stage on the ST-35. Get a grip, Bret.

He's probably thinking of the SCA-35. Getting lost in ages of alphabet soup
is hardly a hanging offense, even if it is Bret. ;-)

[Peter Wieck]

On Dec 1, 10:08 am, "Arny Krueger" wrote:
"Peter Wieck" wrote in message







On Nov 30, 10:37 pm, Bret Ludwig
wrote:
Yep, brown means phenolic boards. Glass boards will be
either blue or green, mostly green. You can overcome
most of the phenolic board failures by remaking all the
solder-joints at the tube sockets, then overlaying the
traces with a couple of strands of fine copper wire and
new solder BE CAREFUL OF MAKING BRIDGES. Replace the
caps with good- quality film caps (600V or better), pay
careful attention to and/or replace the electrolytics
and you are about as far as you can go without
modification of the original circuit. On the
electrolytics, you will be surprised at how few
failures you will see on this particular unit - unlike
the 70. But do check them thoroughly and if there is
the slightest doubt, replace them. Given that this
thing has silicon rectifiers you can actually reform
the caps with a variac (and great care) - one of the
few where that is possible.

You can also put a roll-switch on the power-cord if you
want it to be able to be switched separately from your
pre-amp or your pre-amp lacks switched outlets,
something that can be useful. Be sure that any switch
you use is rated at least at 2A so as not to flash at
turn-on.
They are sweet little amps and generally very well
behaved.
Actually they are too sweet, too euphonic, for my
taste, but in
properly refurbed stock shape they do a decent job with
very efficient
speakers or for bedroom audio. The phono stage is a
limitation.
Reforming caps is a job best done with a bench supply,
but of course
if you have a variac you already have much of a good DC
bench supply.
Just put an old power transformer in a salvaged PC power
supply case
or other enclosure with some diodes and caps and you are
good to go.
Use a high value series resistor for cap forming
operations!- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No phono stage on the ST-35. Get a grip, Bret.

He's probably thinking of the SCA-35. Getting lost in ages of alphabet soup
is hardly a hanging offense, even if it is Bret. ;-)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Note that I stated "Get a grip", not "Get a life".

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[West]

"Peter Wieck" wrote in message
...
On Nov 30, 10:55 pm, "West" wrote:

An ST-35 was a good
value for the dollar in its hey day but not worth much in today's
market.
You got a good deal but not a great one. This NG basically is a DIY
group.
We all cut our teeth by tackling similar type problems ourselves. IOW,
the
value of what you have is that the ST-35 is an excellent way to learn
about
making, modifying, and restoring tube equipment, but is not worth paying
someone to fix it. Just my $.02 FWIW.

Pillock, pillock, pillock:

Not just a pillock, but a pretentious one at that.

The ST-35 was in its day about the least expensive, well-designed pure
power amp with good iron on the market. It remains an excellent
example of that species, and even as "stock" will give long and
reliable service with basic care. It uses common and inexpensive tubes
and many other virtues.

That the pillock chooses to give you distorted information would be
merely a reflection of his expectations from tubes. This "NG" is
dedicated to the care and feeding of tube audio equipment in all its
manifestations and in all aspects from restoration and basic
maintenance to upgrades and then all the way to DIY from trees, ore
and copper billets. Therefore it (should) serves anyone at any level
with any questions within the hobby. That pillock and his "boss"
should choose to hijack the group for their own and purposes with
usually dubious results is, once again, no more than pretentious.

Bravo, well said.
BTW: May I quote you?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[Peter Wieck]

On Dec 1, 11:48 am, "West" wrote:

Bravo, well said.
BTW: May I quote you?

Of course - with the *request* that you also state that the NG is not
dedicated to bicycles, non-existent automobiles, bad wine, bad books,
"vintage Jack Daniels" nor any of many other aspects of ego that have
nothing to do with the care and feeding of tube equipment. I did write
"WITHIN" the hobby, after all. Not brain farts from pillocks,
sockpuppets and never-were egoists on whatever random thought or
subject might be passing through their fevered minds.

You, of all pillocks, ought to know by now that pretty much anything
you post, about anywhere on the net is there, about forever, for all
to see, copyrights or pretenses to same notwithstanding. So, there is
not one helluva lot I could (or would) do were you to quote without my
acquiescence, or out of context, distorted, edited or any of several
similar practices as are your wont.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[Fred[_9_]]

"Ernst" wrote in message ...
On Nov 29, 9:19 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:
I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
the Atlanta area?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
Larry in Atlanta

Nice catch. What do you want to do with it? Conserve it as a museum
piece, or listen with it?

Good choice of words, "listen with it" as opposed to "listen to it".

The music is what we listen to, right? The tubes just help make it sound
better when we listen to our music. If the tubes are working right, I mean. ;-)

A properly working ST-35 can make the music sound very good, indeed.
So can a $10K Krell, but I haven't seen any of those around for $17 lately.

Fred

Ernst

[Arny Krueger]

"Bret Ludwig" wrote in message

- Show quoted text -
No phono stage on the ST-35. Get a grip, Bret.

He's probably thinking of the SCA-35. Getting lost in
ages of alphabet soup is hardly a hanging offense, even
if it is Bret. ;-)

YES, that is right. I've never seen a ST35. And I've seen
hundreds of ST70s, ST120s, SCA-35s, etc.

It's rare and should probably kept stock for that reason.

I owned one, in the day of.

[badboyallmylife]

On Dec 1, 6:25 am, Ernst wrote:
On Nov 29, 9:19 pm, badboyallmylife wrote:





I wonder what that is? Looks like a linear amp or something. Hefted
it off the shelf and saw it was an old Dynaco ST-35. Seventeen
dollars and home it came. Now I know a bit about vintage gear and I
have a bunch of things to tinker with but aside from the layers of
dust, this little amp is in great shape. I want to restore/mod this
amp but aside from knowing how to read a schematic, solder and use a
multimeter....I would rather have an adoring tech massage my little
amp into a worthy addition to my amp collection. Any suggestions in
theAtlantaarea?
All I've done is blow off the dust and brush away the residue. Pulled
the original tubes and cleaned it up a bit. Shoot....the cage only
has a little mar on the back corner. No rust but a little oxidation
on the chasis. Should I have it restored to original specs or
incorporate some of the more popular mods? You can tell I'm excited
about my little find and want the best for my baby. Thanks in
advance for any suggestions.
LarryinAtlanta

Nice catch. What do you want to do with it? Conserve it as a museum
piece, or listen with it?

Ernst- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry...... I've been a bit distant lately, but to reply to the
question......hmmmmm I'm not sure what I'll do wirh it.
Photograph it.....research it....and try to find the rightful owner
and offer it back to him/her.
Naaahhh....just kidding. I'll start with "stock" and then mod the
bugger. The buildout begins....Picture of my hair on fire can be
found on PhotoBucket under "What was he thinking?"
Larry in Atlanta