Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 09:53:19 +1200, Patrick Dunford
wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

But, since most homes only have one phase , domestic users hook all
their dimmers on different rings or spurs or whatever sparkies call
the individual circuits. As in, a different spur to the stereo.

El P.

On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 09:53:19 +1200, Patrick Dunford
wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

But, since most homes only have one phase , domestic users hook all
their dimmers on different rings or spurs or whatever sparkies call
the individual circuits. As in, a different spur to the stereo.

El P.

On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 09:53:19 +1200, Patrick Dunford
wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

But, since most homes only have one phase , domestic users hook all
their dimmers on different rings or spurs or whatever sparkies call
the individual circuits. As in, a different spur to the stereo.

El P.

In article ,
Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

three hots into the dimmer
and you only have two legs coming from the distro
if it is one dimmer opwer it all off one leg
if it is multi dimmers power I half off one leg and the other half off
the other
just use a service and cableing adaquate for the job

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase
if I can not get the power I have two option
1 down size lighting rig
2 limit the draw by restricting the maximum brightness of the
lamps(easily done with a trimmer on my control desk)
george

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).
--
** The email address *IS* valid, do NOT remove the spamblock
And on the evening of the first day the lord said...........
..... LX 1, GO!; and there was light.

In article ,
Dan Mills wrote:

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

yes 4 guage free air conductors and the ground is 2
i also have a real disto that runs 2/0 on the same sized camlocs

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

this I was not aware of , thanks

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).

In article ,
Dan Mills wrote:

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

yes 4 guage free air conductors and the ground is 2
i also have a real disto that runs 2/0 on the same sized camlocs

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

this I was not aware of , thanks

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).

In article ,
Dan Mills wrote:

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

yes 4 guage free air conductors and the ground is 2
i also have a real disto that runs 2/0 on the same sized camlocs

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

this I was not aware of , thanks

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).
--
** The email address *IS* valid, do NOT remove the spamblock
And on the evening of the first day the lord said...........
..... LX 1, GO!; and there was light.

George wrote:

Snip

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase

Is the neutral from the dimmer rated for 60A? If running single phase it
will need to be.

The other thing to watch is that RMS/AVERAGE thing when reducing power draw
by turning down at the desk. Ohh and this applies to three phase loads as
well as it is quite possible for the neutral current to exceed any given
phase current due to third harmonic summing in the neutral.

Just a heads up about some of the details that may not be obvious to people
considering doing this.

Regards, Dan (who is profoundly glad that he is in a 230/400V country).
--
** The email address *IS* valid, do NOT remove the spamblock
And on the evening of the first day the lord said...........
..... LX 1, GO!; and there was light.

In article ,
Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

three hots into the dimmer
and you only have two legs coming from the distro
if it is one dimmer opwer it all off one leg
if it is multi dimmers power I half off one leg and the other half off
the other
just use a service and cableing adaquate for the job

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase
if I can not get the power I have two option
1 down size lighting rig
2 limit the draw by restricting the maximum brightness of the
lamps(easily done with a trimmer on my control desk)
george

In article ,
Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

three hots into the dimmer
and you only have two legs coming from the distro
if it is one dimmer opwer it all off one leg
if it is multi dimmers power I half off one leg and the other half off
the other
just use a service and cableing adaquate for the job

most venues that use lots of portable systems have seperate services for
sound and lights with independent disconnects

I just bought the behringer dimmer that was set up for 3 phase
20 amp120v/ph
I hard wired it to three single breakers in a disconnect(breaker box)
all on the same phase this disconnect connects with tails and camlocs
to a mains(at venue) that can supply at least 60 amps/phase
if I can not get the power I have two option
1 down size lighting rig
2 limit the draw by restricting the maximum brightness of the
lamps(easily done with a trimmer on my control desk)
george

Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

Most of those sound system manuals are misusing the word phase.
What they were trying to stop with that advice is ground loops that
allow the hash and trash generated by dimmers to enter the signal
paths.
The sound system should be on a separate power panel than
the dimmers, and they both should have large friendly ground
conductors connected to a good building grounding system.

--Dale

Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

Most of those sound system manuals are misusing the word phase.
What they were trying to stop with that advice is ground loops that
allow the hash and trash generated by dimmers to enter the signal
paths.
The sound system should be on a separate power panel than
the dimmers, and they both should have large friendly ground
conductors connected to a good building grounding system.

--Dale

Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

Most of those sound system manuals are misusing the word phase.
What they were trying to stop with that advice is ground loops that
allow the hash and trash generated by dimmers to enter the signal
paths.
The sound system should be on a separate power panel than
the dimmers, and they both should have large friendly ground
conductors connected to a good building grounding system.

--Dale

Patrick Dunford wrote:
Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

1. Don't use dimmers at all.

2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.

4. Use an ancient autotransformer board.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"Scott Dorsey"
Patrick Dunford

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?


1. Don't use dimmers at all.


** Dorsey is as clueless as ever.


2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.


** Won't help when ground system noise is the issue.


3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of
noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from
the
main service.


** Dorsey has not got a clue.


4. Use an ancient autotransformer board.


** That is no damn board - that is a room full of motorised hardware
that went out with Noah's Arc.


The real answer is to make sure your PA system is genuinely earth loop hum
free - then it will be dimmer buzz fee to in all probability too.

However, electric guitars, keyboards, amps and other items of stage gear
are the NUMBER ONE culprits for picking up dimmer buzz - and there is
SFA **you** can do about them.




............. Phil

"Scott Dorsey"
Patrick Dunford

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?


1. Don't use dimmers at all.


** Dorsey is as clueless as ever.


2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.


** Won't help when ground system noise is the issue.


3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of
noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from
the
main service.


** Dorsey has not got a clue.


4. Use an ancient autotransformer board.


** That is no damn board - that is a room full of motorised hardware
that went out with Noah's Arc.


The real answer is to make sure your PA system is genuinely earth loop hum
free - then it will be dimmer buzz fee to in all probability too.

However, electric guitars, keyboards, amps and other items of stage gear
are the NUMBER ONE culprits for picking up dimmer buzz - and there is
SFA **you** can do about them.




............. Phil

In article in nz.tech on 25 Sep 2004
20:25:06 -0400, Scott Dorsey says...
Patrick Dunford wrote:
Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

1. Don't use dimmers at all.

2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.

How does running your sound gear on isolation transformers go?

We don't get much noise now, except for using three channels where the
mains cables run too close to the audio lines.

Patrick Dunford wrote:

How does running your sound gear on isolation transformers go?

It allows you to break connection between your grounding system and the
building grounding system. It gives you some degree of low-pass filtering
on the power line.

But, it does nothing about the RF trash that is radiating from the building
power system and from the lighting cables. RF trash that floats through the
air and couples into audio gear, even though it's not coming into the audio
gear through the power line.

We don't get much noise now, except for using three channels where the
mains cables run too close to the audio lines.

Well, move them and stop worrying so much. If you don't have noise problems,
don't worry about noise. If you have noise problems, find out what specific
problems they are and fix them.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.


Ty Ford








-- Ty Ford's equipment reviews, audio samples, rates and other audiocentric
stuff are at www.tyford.com

"Ty Ford" wrote:
Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after
having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy
logic.

It's better, but since it still appears in other people's quoted replies
it's like there's this weird echo which is even stranger and more insane
than the actual posts.

-jw

"Ty Ford" wrote:
Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after
having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy
logic.

It's better, but since it still appears in other people's quoted replies
it's like there's this weird echo which is even stranger and more insane
than the actual posts.

-jw

So you DO have a kill file????

Al

On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 11:13:49 -0400, Ty Ford
wrote:

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.


Ty Ford








-- Ty Ford's equipment reviews, audio samples, rates and other audiocentric
stuff are at www.tyford.com

So you DO have a kill file????

Al

On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 11:13:49 -0400, Ty Ford
wrote:

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.


Ty Ford








-- Ty Ford's equipment reviews, audio samples, rates and other audiocentric
stuff are at www.tyford.com

"Ty Ford"

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after
having
killfiled the philbot.



** Only scum want to eliminate their critics.

Typhoid has all the qualifications.




............. Phil

"Ty Ford"

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after
having
killfiled the philbot.



** Only scum want to eliminate their critics.

Typhoid has all the qualifications.




............. Phil

Ty Ford wrote in message ...
Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.

It's probably not just you, but I for one disagree somewhat.

Within his areas of expertise (i.e. excluding loudspeakers, etc.), Phil is as
knowledgeable as anyone here. I know I've learned from him.

For years folks justified the behavior of a certain Boston retailer because
he posted good information. Phil is ten times as technically informed (again,
within his limits) as the self-proclaimed Bad Boy From MA, but the consensus
seems to support the BBFMA's less informed, albeit more entertaining, schtick.

Some of you should go look in the archives and watch yourselves defending
similar behavior.

Yeah, Phil lacks talent in the insult department. Still, I haven't seen him
physically threaten anyone ... which puts him one up on a few "respected"
old timers.

Ty, give the whining a ****ing rest. You've made your point, ad nauseum.
Then again, it's a (somewhat) free country and an unmoderated newsgroup.
Knock yourself out.

Phil, stick to what you know. Dealing out effective insults isn't one of those
things. Or see above freedom. I'm sure the same liberties obtain in Oz.

-DrBoom

Ty Ford wrote in message ...
Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.

It's probably not just you, but I for one disagree somewhat.

Within his areas of expertise (i.e. excluding loudspeakers, etc.), Phil is as
knowledgeable as anyone here. I know I've learned from him.

For years folks justified the behavior of a certain Boston retailer because
he posted good information. Phil is ten times as technically informed (again,
within his limits) as the self-proclaimed Bad Boy From MA, but the consensus
seems to support the BBFMA's less informed, albeit more entertaining, schtick.

Some of you should go look in the archives and watch yourselves defending
similar behavior.

Yeah, Phil lacks talent in the insult department. Still, I haven't seen him
physically threaten anyone ... which puts him one up on a few "respected"
old timers.

Ty, give the whining a ****ing rest. You've made your point, ad nauseum.
Then again, it's a (somewhat) free country and an unmoderated newsgroup.
Knock yourself out.

Phil, stick to what you know. Dealing out effective insults isn't one of those
things. Or see above freedom. I'm sure the same liberties obtain in Oz.

-DrBoom

Is it just me or does anyone else noticed how much nicer rap is after having
killfiled the philbot. What a relief to get rid of that nasty, fuzzy logic.


Ty Ford








-- Ty Ford's equipment reviews, audio samples, rates and other audiocentric
stuff are at www.tyford.com

Patrick Dunford wrote:

How does running your sound gear on isolation transformers go?

It allows you to break connection between your grounding system and the
building grounding system. It gives you some degree of low-pass filtering
on the power line.

But, it does nothing about the RF trash that is radiating from the building
power system and from the lighting cables. RF trash that floats through the
air and couples into audio gear, even though it's not coming into the audio
gear through the power line.

We don't get much noise now, except for using three channels where the
mains cables run too close to the audio lines.

Well, move them and stop worrying so much. If you don't have noise problems,
don't worry about noise. If you have noise problems, find out what specific
problems they are and fix them.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of
noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.


Back in the mid-late 60's, we built a new studio and had the buzzing and other
artifacts from the studio dimmers. We wound up placing the lighting on
isolation transformers to eliminate the interference with audio. I would hope
things have progressed further by now. Isolation was a little expensive.


--Wayne

-"sounded good to me"-

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of
noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.


Back in the mid-late 60's, we built a new studio and had the buzzing and other
artifacts from the studio dimmers. We wound up placing the lighting on
isolation transformers to eliminate the interference with audio. I would hope
things have progressed further by now. Isolation was a little expensive.


--Wayne

-"sounded good to me"-

In article in nz.tech on 25 Sep 2004
20:25:06 -0400, Scott Dorsey says...
Patrick Dunford wrote:
Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

1. Don't use dimmers at all.

2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.

How does running your sound gear on isolation transformers go?

We don't get much noise now, except for using three channels where the
mains cables run too close to the audio lines.

Patrick Dunford wrote:
Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

1. Don't use dimmers at all.

2. Get a separate service from the dimmers.

3. Spend the money for expensive dimmer packs that have some degree of noise
filtering, then put them on a three-phase isolation transformer from the
main service.

4. Use an ancient autotransformer board.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 09:53:19 +1200, Patrick Dunford
wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

Lots of batteries? But seriously, how old is the room you'll be
working in? I've found, in our new (1995) theater that I can just
plug randomly into Edison wherever I want and not worry. About
that anyway.

There's nothing you can do about the dimmers, which is scary, but
there may not be any practical problems, which is cool.

RFI trapping at the input to electronics may still prove to be
audible, and is worth experimenting with, if only for peace of
mind. I play with clamp-on ferrite donuts on signal and power.

Good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck

On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 09:53:19 +1200, Patrick Dunford
wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

Lots of batteries? But seriously, how old is the room you'll be
working in? I've found, in our new (1995) theater that I can just
plug randomly into Edison wherever I want and not worry. About
that anyway.

There's nothing you can do about the dimmers, which is scary, but
there may not be any practical problems, which is cool.

RFI trapping at the input to electronics may still prove to be
audible, and is worth experimenting with, if only for peace of
mind. I play with clamp-on ferrite donuts on signal and power.

Good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck

Patrick Dunford wrote:

Every sound system manual I have ever seen recommends strongly you have
dimmers on a separate phase from the sound system.

The problem with this is, most dimmer packs are three phase.

Short of not using 1/3 of your channels, what can be done about the noise
problems?

The issue will be with earth loops, they exagerate the noise pickup from dimmers.

Solve the earth loop, solve the buzz generally.

richard wrote:
The issue will be with earth loops, they exagerate the noise pickup from dimmers.

Solve the earth loop, solve the buzz generally.

For the most part this is true, but keeping the trash out of the power line
as much as possible with careful power supply to the dimmers is still a good
idea.

Because you're going to encounter equipment with internal ground loops (yes,
I realize Phil doesn't believe in the Pin 1 problem, but there was a nice
paper at the last AES show on it that is worth looking up), you're going to
be using wireless mikes with poor front-ends that pick up RF trash directly,
and all-in-all, sooner or later you're going to have someone working in the
hall that will be in some situation where noise is an issue. So try and do
it right with the initial install.

Don't forget clearcom systems either....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."