[Edward Morris]

I need to restuff a can capacitor. Could someone tell me an easy way to do
it? I've never done if before and dread is setting in.

Thanks for your time,
Eddie

[bigwig]

On 12 Feb, 20:17, "Edward Morris" wrote:
I need to restuff a can capacitor. *Could someone tell me an easy way to do
it? *I've never done if before and dread is setting in.

Thanks for your time,
Eddie

How is it mounted? ie clamp, twistlock etc.
Matt.

[Edward Morris]

It's twist lock. Two of the tabs are soldered to the chassis so it's going
to be a battle just to get the capacitor out without breaking the tabs off.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Eddie

"bigwig" wrote in message
...
On 12 Feb, 20:17, "Edward Morris" wrote:
I need to restuff a can capacitor. Could someone tell me an easy way to do
it? I've never done if before and dread is setting in.

Thanks for your time,
Eddie

How is it mounted? ie clamp, twistlock etc.
Matt.

[Dave]

Edward Morris wrote:
It's twist lock. Two of the tabs are soldered to the chassis so it's going
to be a battle just to get the capacitor out without breaking the tabs off.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Eddie

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com...spx?pn=114-202

[bigwig]

On 13 Feb, 19:57, dave wrote:
Edward Morris wrote:
It's twist lock. *Two of the tabs are soldered to the chassis so it's going
to be a battle just to get the capacitor out without breaking the tabs off.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Eddie

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com...spx?pn=114-202

Indeed, it should be no problem to desolder the tabs from the
cassis:-) I have three irons, a Weller TCP job, a Metcal and an old
Weller gun. The gun is the one for a job like this. If you dont have a
good(ish) high wattage iron then you will need one. If you try with a
45W one or something similar you will be holding it on all day and
probably end up melting something. I also have a little Antex 15W iron
but since I got the Metcal I dont really use it for fiddly little
surface mount lead free nonesense. The Weller TCP does the job all day
long no probs. Not that the Metcal wouldnt, Im just used to the
Weller.
You can pick up a cheap gun type iron at any hardware place, they
really do come in handy. If you get one be sure to get one that the
"bit" is held by a pair of slotted bolts a bit like a cable adjuster
on a bike. If you get one with a couple of screws the threads will
strip after a few changes and then its tap it out bigger, you cant do
this much more than once. The ones that use the slotted bolt set up
have swaged over ends on the bit (bent piece of wire) making your own
bits is no problem. File a notch with a half round needle file in a
length of copper wire the same diameter as the old one, bend to the
shape of the original with the filed section inside at the tip, trim
the ends to an appropriate length and then clamp each one in the vice
and carefully pein the ends over like a rivet.
As for a desoldering thingy majob I use an Abeco DSG PRM. I have had
mine for 15 years and only replaced the nozzle (probably 20-30 times),
the spring went once and so did the latch. Its a bit like the old "see
this broom Ive ad it twenny yers neva lit me doon". Bloody good thing
though:-)
Matt.

[diamondsouled]

There are a few sites on line that show how to restuff can caps:

http://www.ppinyot.com/C/capacitor_stuffing.htm

http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl...ntage&n=171603

Cheers

Lar

[Horace]

Originally Posted by diamondsouled

There are a few sites on line that show how to restuff can caps:

http://www.ppinyot.com/C/capacitor_stuffing.htm

http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl...ntage&n=171603

Cheers

Lar

Another method that bypasses cutting up the can is he
http://s641.photobucket.com/user/ant...tml?sort=6&o=0

The step in opening cans this way that is least clearly stated is how to get started curling up the crimped edge around the base of the cap. The can edge is typically crimped very tight and look nearly impossible to get a tool inserted to begin prying. One website suggested prying between the insulator plate and the mounting ring but I discovered that is more likely to damage the insulator. A better way I found is to secure the cap in a vise, upside down, with the flange resting on the jaws. Then use a small nail set punch and tap on the steel retaining ring (has the twist lock tabs) just inside the can's crimped aluminum. That will slightly compress the cap innards and make gaps between the steel ring and the crimped aluminum. Now you can insert a small screwdriver tip or other tool and begin turning up the crimp. From there on the procedure in the link above is simple enough. I steel pipe "anvil" isn't necessary, a burnishing tool or steel rod can be used to smooth out the uncrimped edge. It's only required that the edge not interfere with pulling the cap innards free once you've melted the tar enough.