[Ed Anson]

I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps
the collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my
inability to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled
conditions. I have used a multimeter to check the conductors and
connections, and everything appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can
eliminate the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the
cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the
cause. Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose
the problem?

[WillStG]

On Mar 20, 7:03 pm, Ed Anson wrote:
I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps
the collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my
inability to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled
conditions. I have used a multimeter to check the conductors and
connections, and everything appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can
eliminate the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the
cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the
cause. Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose
the problem?

First problem a cable starts to have is schmutz on the connectors.
Clean up the XLR's, plug 'em in and out a few times. Same thing
happens with many screw on mic capsules, and on some analog mixing
console pots. Combination of dust and humidity creating noise. I
notice this happens quite regularly in the spring and fall, as we
start to switch over between seasons and the humidity increases.

Spring arrived today, so maybe that's right on schedule.

Will Miho
NY TV/Audio Post/Music/Live Sound Guy
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away..." Tom Waits

[Ed Anson]

Soundhaspriority wrote:
"Ed Anson" wrote in message
...
I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps the
collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my inability
to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled conditions. I have
used a multimeter to check the conductors and connections, and everything
appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can eliminate
the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the cable.
I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the cause.
Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose the
problem?

Ed, is only one mike affected? I ask, because if it is, it could be that the
mike itself has a loose joint that is "randomly" tensioned into continuity
by the slight dimensional differences of a connector.

I had something like this, ironically also with a Canare, and I never
tracked it down. The cables were shuffled, and the next time I used the
mike, it worked fine.

Bob Morein
(310) 237-6511



Bob,

I always use that particular cable with the same mic, so I guess that's
a possibility. [Next time this happens, I'll try swapping cables between
the mics and see if anything changes.] What do you mean by a "loose
joint" on a mic? FWIW everything on my mic seems snug. In fact, I
usually need to press rather firmly to get the XLR to click into place.

Ed

[Chris Hornbeck]

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 21:14:49 -0400, "Soundhaspriority"
wrote:

Ed, I refer to the soldering of the mike XLR to the circuit board inside the
mike.

And, a solder joint, either inside the cable's ends or maybe
inside a mic, is the most likely culprit. Especially for a
quad cable with redundant wires (pretty much rules out a
"broken wire" failure).

So, a bright light and a very close, critical look at the
cable's solder joints are the very first avenue of attack.
In fact, if you're uncertain, just reflow the solder joints -
a five minute job including heating the iron.

Can't hurt to look inside the mic too, if you can get it
open easily. Intermittents are a beotch, but bright work
lights and a shotgun approach catch a lot. As a Pope once
said "Let God sort 'em out."

All the best fortune,
Chris Hornbeck

[Ed Anson]

Chris Hornbeck wrote:
On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 21:14:49 -0400, "Soundhaspriority"
wrote:

Ed, I refer to the soldering of the mike XLR to the circuit board inside the
mike.

And, a solder joint, either inside the cable's ends or maybe
inside a mic, is the most likely culprit. Especially for a
quad cable with redundant wires (pretty much rules out a
"broken wire" failure).

So, a bright light and a very close, critical look at the
cable's solder joints are the very first avenue of attack.
In fact, if you're uncertain, just reflow the solder joints -
a five minute job including heating the iron.

Can't hurt to look inside the mic too, if you can get it
open easily. Intermittents are a beotch, but bright work
lights and a shotgun approach catch a lot. As a Pope once
said "Let God sort 'em out."

All the best fortune,
Chris Hornbeck

Ok. Thanks for the suggestion. It's worth a try. I'll wait for the
bright light of day and give the cable a good looking over. The mic is
another matter. I doubt that I can safely access its soldered innards.
Fortunately, because the problem follows the cable I think that's the
more likely culprit anyway.

/Ed

[Scott Dorsey]

Ed Anson wrote:
I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

But the other one is fine?

Popular sources for this sort of problem include soldering the pairs
incorrectly (using one white and one blue on each pin for instance),
grounds that are loose, or grounds that are intermittently touching
the connector shell. Check for cold solder joints too.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the
cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the
cause. Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose
the problem?

Take the connectors off, clean them, chop off a couple inches of cable,
and put them back on, so you know they are on properly.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[RD Jones]

On Mar 20, 6:03*pm, Ed Anson wrote:
I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps
the collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my
inability to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled
conditions. I have used a multimeter to check the conductors and
connections, and everything appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can
eliminate the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable..

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the
cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the
cause. Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose
the problem?

This sounds suspiciously like pin 1 has been swapped with either
2 or 3 on both ends. Other than the noise the cable still "works"
right ?

rd

[Jim Weld[_2_]]

"Ed Anson" wrote in message
...
I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps the
collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my inability
to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled conditions. I have
used a multimeter to check the conductors and connections, and everything
appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can eliminate
the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the cable.
I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the cause.
Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose the
problem?

See if the shell has been connected to pin 1. This can cause all sorts of
bad things to happen, mostly on the male end. Use a continuity tester to
check between the shell and pin 1 on each end of the cable. This mostly is
a concern in a building with a mic panel grounded to the building ground,
but can cause trouble in other situations as well. My first cable problem
like this just happened to be with Canare star-quad cable.

If this is the problem, you'll have to disassemble the connector and cut the
wire bridge.

Good luck,

jim

[Arny Krueger]

"Ed Anson" wrote in message


I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to
replace the cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still
curious about the cause. Can anyone suggest how this
might happen, or how I might diagnose the problem?

Cut both ends back about a foot, and re-terminate.

If that doesn't do it, then throw the wire away and reuse the connectors
with a new piece of wire.

[WillStG]

On Mar 22, 5:46 am, "Arny Krueger" wrote:
"Ed Anson" wrote in message



I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to
replace the cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still
curious about the cause. Can anyone suggest how this
might happen, or how I might diagnose the problem?

Cut both ends back about a foot, and re-terminate.

If that doesn't do it, then throw the wire away and reuse the connectors
with a new piece of wire.

Last time Ed checked in, he hadn't even yet tried the simple
exercise of swapping cables to see if the problem followed the cable.
So chances are good the problem was simply schmutz, which is next up
on the "Audio 101" troubleshooting list. When a cable is sometimes
noisy and sometimes good, 9 times out of 10 it's dirt and humidity on
the connectors - very simple. He didn't say it was intermittent, he
said it was noisy - sometimes.

Similarly, I have seen a lot of audio guys blaming analog consoles
for on air noise or signal drop outs, problems I didn't have on air
with the same model and vintage console - because I turn all the knobs
on analog consoles I use to keep them clean. Perhaps as a result of
years of doing manual recalls on consoles, I am not intimidated by the
tedium. You have to "express" self cleaning pots regularly so they
don't build up dirt and bite you in the butt when you go to trim a
gain or change a compressor threshold, or eq something on air. And
keep your audio cables clean.

An Audio Assistant worth his salt should be able to determine
whether a cable is broken or not in under 5 minutes. If he can't and
I'm mixing, I don't feel the guy has my back. In Broadcasting some
Engineers (capital "E") just throw problem cables away. Actually I
have a small collection of them I rescued from the trash in my
garage....

Will Miho
NY TV/Audio Post/Music/Live Sound Guy
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away..." Tom Waits

[Ed Anson]

RD Jones wrote:
On Mar 20, 6:03 pm, Ed Anson wrote:
I am puzzled by the behavior of one of my cables, and thought perhaps
the collective wisdom of this group could help me explain it.

I have a pair of essentially new 25 foot cables, made with Canare
star-quad conductors and Neutrik connectors, one of which sometimes
introduces so much noise that I am forced to switch it out. The noise is
sometimes a 60Hz hum, and sometimes more like a buzzing sound. It always
happens with the same cable, and goes away when I switch out the cable.

Attempts to trouble shoot the problem have been frustrated by my
inability to reproduce the problem under sufficiently controlled
conditions. I have used a multimeter to check the conductors and
connections, and everything appears to be in order.

It puzzles me how a cable of such quality and reputed immunity to
interference could have such a problem -- especially since I can
eliminate the interference by replacing it with a cheap Radio Shack cable.

I know the obvious (and simplest) solution would be to replace the
cable. I'll probably wind up doing that, but I'm still curious about the
cause. Can anyone suggest how this might happen, or how I might diagnose
the problem?

This sounds suspiciously like pin 1 has been swapped with either
2 or 3 on both ends. Other than the noise the cable still "works"
right ?

rd

Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This is disappointing, since I purchased the cable ready made because I
don't trust my own skills for making cables. Perhaps I should reconsider
that. At least in this case it looks like I have some soldering to do.

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions.

Ed

[Scott Dorsey]

Ed Anson wrote:

Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This is disappointing, since I purchased the cable ready made because I
don't trust my own skills for making cables. Perhaps I should reconsider
that. At least in this case it looks like I have some soldering to do.

I strongly recommend making your own cables, because then you have only
yourself to blame. Or, have them made by a legitimate company like Gepco
or Markertek that actually does quality control.

I have seen so much crap on MI-store cable... including my personal favorite,
a cable which had one red wire soldered to pin 3 on one connector... and one
white wire soldered to pin 2 on the other connector... and somewhere in the
middle of the cable each wire disappeared. Clearly it was a production
error making the original cable... but it got on the bench, and the soldering
guy didn't seem to mind that there was something very badly wrong. That
cable was from Samson but it could have been from any one of a number of
companies that all buy from the same sources....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Ed Anson]

Scott Dorsey wrote:
Ed Anson wrote:
Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This is disappointing, since I purchased the cable ready made because I
don't trust my own skills for making cables. Perhaps I should reconsider
that. At least in this case it looks like I have some soldering to do.

I strongly recommend making your own cables, because then you have only
yourself to blame. Or, have them made by a legitimate company like Gepco
or Markertek that actually does quality control.

I have seen so much crap on MI-store cable... including my personal favorite,
a cable which had one red wire soldered to pin 3 on one connector... and one
white wire soldered to pin 2 on the other connector... and somewhere in the
middle of the cable each wire disappeared. Clearly it was a production
error making the original cable... but it got on the bench, and the soldering
guy didn't seem to mind that there was something very badly wrong. That
cable was from Samson but it could have been from any one of a number of
companies that all buy from the same sources....
--scott

Scott, you make a good point. Still, I resist making my own cables
because I seem to have ten thumbs. Whenever I have tried making a cable,
the result was always a mess. I tend to nick the insulation and/or
conductor, or worse. Since this particular cable is already bad, I'll
risk trying to fix it. At least I won't be stripping insulation, which
is the most problematic part of the process for me.

Next time I need a cable, I'll check out Gepco or Markertek. Thanks for
the suggestion.

/Ed

[Scott Dorsey]

Ed Anson wrote:

Scott, you make a good point. Still, I resist making my own cables
because I seem to have ten thumbs. Whenever I have tried making a cable,
the result was always a mess. I tend to nick the insulation and/or
conductor, or worse. Since this particular cable is already bad, I'll
risk trying to fix it. At least I won't be stripping insulation, which
is the most problematic part of the process for me.

If you are having trouble doing this, it might be the tools. You need
a small stripper (20g and down) to do the individual wires, and a larger
one to do the jacket. Spend the money for at least the Xilite or Klein grade
strippers... stay away from the cheap crap they sell at the hardware store.

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[RD Jones]

On Mar 23, 2:59*pm, Ed Anson wrote:

Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This might be a worst case scenario, because the cable will test good
with a continuity check with a meter or a cable tester. But you no
longer
have a twisted pair or a shield. Even a naked twisted pair with no
shield
at all will provide some rejection of noise assuming properly balanced
connections at both ends. (although phantom will no longer work)

rd

[RD Jones]

Ed Anson wrote:

Scott, you make a good point. Still, I resist making my own cables
because I seem to have ten thumbs. Whenever I have tried making a cable,
the result was always a mess. I tend to nick the insulation and/or
conductor, or worse. Since this particular cable is already bad, I'll
risk trying to fix it. At least I won't be stripping insulation, which
is the most problematic part of the process for me.

I find it's often better to just cut back a bit and start fresh since
multiple applications of heat can cause the insulation on some wire
to get thin.

On Mar 23, 4:32 pm, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
If you are having trouble doing this, it might be the tools. *You need
a small stripper (20g and down) to do the individual wires, and a larger
one to do the jacket. *Spend the money for at least the Xilite or Klein grade
strippers... stay away from the cheap crap they sell at the hardware store.

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. *If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. *If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. *Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.

A Panavice is a great tool, or a piece of equipment with the mating
jack
to hold the connector, and a pair of "helping hands" to hold wires in
place.

http://www.pro-audio-warehouse.com/12-051.html

rd

[Paul P[_3_]]

Ed Anson wrote:

Scott, you make a good point. Still, I resist making my own cables
because I seem to have ten thumbs. Whenever I have tried making a cable,
the result was always a mess. I tend to nick the insulation and/or
conductor, or worse. Since this particular cable is already bad, I'll
risk trying to fix it. At least I won't be stripping insulation, which
is the most problematic part of the process for me.

It helps enormously to have the proper tools for this and that they be
of reasonably high quality. I went for years screwing around with a
few cheap tools then last year equipped myself with real tools (to
build a tube guitar amp). Making cables is now an easy and enjoyable
activity.

Paul P

[Paul P[_3_]]

Scott Dorsey wrote:

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.

The strippers that first clamp onto the wire before the cutters then
close on the insulation and remove it is a fanastic tool to have. I
couldn't live without it anymore.

I bought this one by Gardner Bender from a local big box hardware
store :

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Automat...r-pGJXL4L.aspx

I converted my house to electric baseboard heating and built an amp
and made a bunch of cables and the tool is still working fine.

Or you could spend a fortune and get a Klein :

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/11062.html

It's probably better quality, at least I hope it is.

Paul P

[Chris Hornbeck]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 22:56:03 -0400, Paul P wrote:

It helps enormously to have the proper tools for this and that they be
of reasonably high quality. I went for years screwing around with a
few cheap tools then last year equipped myself with real tools (to
build a tube guitar amp). Making cables is now an easy and enjoyable
activity.

A really good argument can be made that acquiring (*) tools is the
highest of Human male (**) aspirations. Hand tools, intellectual tools
(knowledge and skills), financial tools - all are concentrated
energy.

(*) Actually *using* tools is secondary; for example, if one decides
to own a handgun, he's obligated to practice its use, and then to
pray to *never* actually use it. Kinda like life insurance.

(**) Human females must aspire to something, but no regular person
knows what that might be...


Much thanks, as always,
Chris Hornbeck

[WillStG]

On Mar 23, 2:59 pm, Ed Anson wrote:
Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This is disappointing, since I purchased the cable ready made because I
don't trust my own skills for making cables. Perhaps I should reconsider
that. At least in this case it looks like I have some soldering to do.


What brand is the cable? I would take it back to the store -
even if it's a year old - and demand they replace it before starting
work on it. If it's faulty product the store needs to know and the
manufacturer needs to know, and they should make it right. I'd also
check the other cable/cables you have that're working to see how
they're wired as well.

If you don't want to solder - although it's much cheaper to do so
- you could just unscrew the connectors in the store and check them
before you buy them.

Will Miho
NY TV/Audio Post/Music/Live Sound Guy
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away..." Tom Waits

[hank alrich]

Paul P wrote:

Scott Dorsey wrote:

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.

The strippers that first clamp onto the wire before the cutters then
close on the insulation and remove it is a fanastic tool to have. I
couldn't live without it anymore.

I bought this one by Gardner Bender from a local big box hardware
store :

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Automat...r-pGJXL4L.aspx

I converted my house to electric baseboard heating and built an amp
and made a bunch of cables and the tool is still working fine.

Or you could spend a fortune and get a Klein :

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/11062.html

It's probably better quality, at least I hope it is.

Back in the 1970's we built three consoles and assembled all the wiring
for onion audio using Radio Shack's version of that, which is still in
my toolbox, and still works well.

--
ha
shut up and play your guitar

[Scott Dorsey]

In article , Paul P wrote:
Scott Dorsey wrote:

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.

The strippers that first clamp onto the wire before the cutters then
close on the insulation and remove it is a fanastic tool to have. I
couldn't live without it anymore.

I never liked those. I worked in places where people used the Paladin
strippers all the time, but I found them kind of cumbersome, and they
didn't work with Teflon wire. But it's true, lots of people get great
results with the things.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[John O[_2_]]

"Paul P" wrote in message
...
Scott Dorsey wrote:

The key is to use the right hole in the stripper so that the hole is just
a little bigger than the conductors. If you do that, you can pull the
wire out straight without nicking anything. If you have the wrong hole,
it's a lot more work to pull and the chances of nicking the conductor are
a lot higher. Cheap strippers may not have the right hole at all.

The strippers that first clamp onto the wire before the cutters then
close on the insulation and remove it is a fanastic tool to have. I
couldn't live without it anymore.

I bought this one by Gardner Bender from a local big box hardware
store :

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Automat...r-pGJXL4L.aspx

I converted my house to electric baseboard heating and built an amp
and made a bunch of cables and the tool is still working fine.

Or you could spend a fortune and get a Klein :

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/11062.html

It's probably better quality, at least I hope it is.

Paul P

I've got the Irwin version, which sizes wires automatically. Excellent for
bigger wires but useless for re-connectorizing a snake, where you don't have
much un-jacketed wire to work with. For that job a smaller stripper was
perfect, something like the Klein 11057 which does little wires. Can't link
to Klein's stupid unsearchable site. Try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-11057-Kl.../dp/B000XEUPMQ

A good iron with a damp sponge for wiping the tip is essential.

-John O

[Ed Anson]

WillStG wrote:
On Mar 23, 2:59 pm, Ed Anson wrote:
Good call! After checking for bad solder joints, etc. I took a closer
look. Sure enough, this particular cable is wired with the shield to pin
2 on both ends. I guess that would make it somewhat susceptible to
interference.

This is disappointing, since I purchased the cable ready made because I
don't trust my own skills for making cables. Perhaps I should reconsider
that. At least in this case it looks like I have some soldering to do.


What brand is the cable? I would take it back to the store -
even if it's a year old - and demand they replace it before starting
work on it. If it's faulty product the store needs to know and the
manufacturer needs to know, and they should make it right. I'd also
check the other cable/cables you have that're working to see how
they're wired as well.

If you don't want to solder - although it's much cheaper to do so
- you could just unscrew the connectors in the store and check them
before you buy them.

Will Miho
NY TV/Audio Post/Music/Live Sound Guy
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away..." Tom Waits

I'll check into whether I can still do that. The cable is well over a
year old, but the vendor is highly reputable. Still, I wouldn't hold it
against them if they wouldn't take it back after such a long time.

In the time I have had it, I have noticed EMI only three times or so.
That probably has more to do with where I usually use it (well away from
strong EM fields) than the actual performance of the cable. Each time it
happened, I was focused on making a recording and just substituted
another cable. When I got back home, I checked it out and found nothing
wrong. The third time that happened, I decided to get some advice and
thus this thread.

BTW: I checked my other cables yesterday. No surprises. They're all
wired correctly. Just the one dud.

Thanks for the ideas.

Ed