Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
(John Atkinson) wrote:
(Tom Nousaine) wrote in message ... (John Atkinson) wrote: (Nousaine) wrote in message tt.net... "normanstrong" wrote: Let's suppose your speaker is rated up to 100 watts, and it crosses over from woofer to tweeter at 2000Hz. Since music contains very little content above 1000Hz it is unlikely that a 100W signal will contain enough power above 2000Hz to damage your tweeter, which might very well be limited to about 10 watts. Now imagine a change: a 1000Hz note is played at full output. That will be 100W, most all of it going into the woofer. Now we continue increasing the input so that what comes out of the amplifier consists of a 1000Hz square wave having the same peak value as the original 100W output. The amplifier is now outputting a 200W signal, half of which is the original 1000Hz sine wave, and the rest consisting of all the odd harmonics (3000, 5000, 7000, etc.) What you have here is 100 watts worth of signal being fed directly to the tweeter. Since the tweeter itself cannot handle anything like 100 Watts, it burns out. This scenario contains some interesting assumptions doesn't it? First it assumes the power supply of the 100 watt amplifier can deliver 200 watts simply by driving it into clipping? Only if the sinewave is so overdriven that a completely square waveform results. So exactly how does being driven into clipping make the output devices and power supply capable of delivering power that is un-tappable under other operating conditions? Not sure I follow you Tom. The peak voltage remains remains the same but squaring the waveform increases the RMS voltage hence the power delivered into the load. In a real-world amplifier, the increased current demand will cause the supply rails to droop a little so you won't get exactly twice the power, but the difference doesn't change Norm's argument: that in the case he describes fully clipping a 100W amplifier results in more power being fed to the tweeter in the frm of odd-order harmonics.. But you're assuming it ALL goes to tweeter frequencies. What are the frequencies at which amplifiers are driven into clipping? I was specifically addressing Norm's scenario, where the test frequency is below the crossover frequency and its third harmonic and higher are above. Clip a 100Hz tone int the same speaker and the first 4 odd harmonics will now be within the woofer's passband, resulting in less stress on the tweeter. And it assumes that the harmonic structure of clipping distributes equal energy above the fundamental. For a clipped but not fully squared signal, all that can be said is that the extra power represented by the harmonics in the scenario that Norm was referring to is indeed fed to the tweeter, which might not be able to handle it. That's the prime issue here. Tweeters are cooked by too much power over a given period. What clipping, as you call the party effect, does is raise the average power level over time. It doesn't, by itself, represent a danger to tweeters. It does in the scenario described by Norm. The relatively "pink" energy distribution of normal music allows a speaker designer to get away with using a tweeter with less long-term power handling capability than the woofer. But "whiten" the musical spectrum by, say, driving the amplifier into clipping, and the tweeter can be overloaded in a relatively short period of time. Drive the speaker to the same SPL level with a larger amplifier and you'll fuse that tweeter in exactly the same time. You are overlooking the fact that the clipping changes the crest factor of the music Tom. A fully clipped 100W amplifier frys the tweeter in Norm's speaker whereas a 200W amplifier driven to its maximum output voltage into the same speaker without clipping will not destroy the tweeter because the short-term transients will not exceed the unit's short-term thermal capability. You need to describe at the music's spectral content, its crest factor (peak:mean ratio), and the time it takes for the tweeter to thermally overload (as well as the time cnstant of your SPL meter) before you can say something like "Drive the speaker to the same SPL level with a larger amplifier and you'll fuse that tweeter in exactly the same time." All I am saying is that my experience aligns with Norm's hypothesis: clipped amplifiers tend to destroy tweeters; unclipped, high-power amplifiers tend not to. John Atkinson Editor, Stereophile My experience does not. The most likely scenario for frying a tweeter is an accidental high power high frequency signal (MLS mostly with an untended gain setting and an accidental input switch) delivered to the speaker system. Otherwise small amplifiers never seem to endanger tweeters even with a 50-watt Bryston or Stewart driven into heavy clipping at 10-100 Hz. Using a larger amplifiers (larger Bryston or Crown Macro-Tech for example) endangers tweeters in a much more imposing manner. Back in the 70s I had a pair of Dahlquist DQ-10s with a tweeter fuse. 10 watt amplifiers amost never took out a tweeter fuse while my 250-watt Heathkit AA-1640 seemed to think that tweeter fuses were clay pigeons. For those who weren't familiar with those speakers they had severe dynamic and extension limitations at low frequencies and users often cranked the hell out of them trying to get some bass out of them. But as you turned the gain up the upward spectral shift turned them into screamers. For me, this pointed out to me the real need for a subwoofer (which the companion Dahlquist product was NOT.) But even after adding a subwoofer and a larger amplifier the most easily damaged part of the system was the tweeter fuse. And open fuses became more common with a bigger ampliifer. This, by the way, is one of the endearing characteristics of active speakers .... precice amplifier sizing for any given piece of the system. IME Active systems are among the most reliable of speaker systems (although well designed speakers in general are incredibly reliable as a class.) What I mean is that during any gathering I can hand the remote to anybody and leave the room without worry that drivers will be fried while I'm gone. But I don't see any 300-watt tweeter amplifiers used to "protect" the driver. That's more easily accomplished with a properly sized amplifier and good engineering. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
any way to determine volume level? | Car Audio | |||
Volume Control ... | General | |||
Hey Audiophiles! Quick tech qstn. on volume... | General | |||
Sony Wega Audio out volume control issues. | General | |||
Passive Volume Control (Passive Preamp) Info | High End Audio |