Ok, I decided to try to learn how to setup my machines for different
tapes. I'm not talking about physically adjusting heads or more
specialized "aligning" but ONLY the very basics of setting my recorders
up for different tapes. Obviously I'd need an MRL tape for the type of
deck I'm using but then I would need to learn how to do this process.
Can someone point me to a site where I can learn how to do the very
BASIC procedure ? I'll leave all that other stuff for a tech but for
right now I need to learn to setup my recorder for any type of tape
(within limits that is) and do it for not a lot of money in tools. I'm
talking bias, levels, eq and such .. Thank you.

"DL" wrote in message
ups.com...
Ok, I decided to try to learn how to setup my machines for different
tapes. I'm not talking about physically adjusting heads or more
specialized "aligning" but ONLY the very basics of setting my recorders
up for different tapes. Obviously I'd need an MRL tape for the type of
deck I'm using but then I would need to learn how to do this process.
Can someone point me to a site where I can learn how to do the very
BASIC procedure ? I'll leave all that other stuff for a tech but for
right now I need to learn to setup my recorder for any type of tape
(within limits that is) and do it for not a lot of money in tools. I'm
talking bias, levels, eq and such .. Thank you.

First thing, get yourself a service manual for the machine. From TASCAM,
from e-bay, wherever, but get one. You need it to tell you, among other
things, where the adjustments are, how much overbias is required, etc.

Peace,
Pul

Paul Stamler wrote:

First thing, get yourself a service manual for the machine. From TASCAM,
from e-bay, wherever, but get one. You need it to tell you, among other
things, where the adjustments are, how much overbias is required, etc.

Check. I have the original service manuals for all my TASCAM recorders.

"DL" wrote in message
oups.com...

Paul Stamler wrote:

First thing, get yourself a service manual for the machine. From TASCAM,
from e-bay, wherever, but get one. You need it to tell you, among other
things, where the adjustments are, how much overbias is required, etc.

Check. I have the original service manuals for all my TASCAM recorders.

Okay; instructions for alignment should be in there. You need to borrow an
oscilloscope someplace to do the head azimuth adjustments (sorry, they're
necessary) and a good ANALOG audio voltmeter. (There are some digital ones
out there that will do the job, but they cost more than your recorder is
worth; a basic DVM won't do it.) You already know about the alignment tape.
Other than that, you'll need an audio oscillator or a DAW that can generate
audio tones, some Q-tips and alcohol. Maybe a tape head demagnetizer.

Peace,
Paul

DL wrote:
Ok, I decided to try to learn how to setup my machines for different
tapes. I'm not talking about physically adjusting heads or more
specialized "aligning" but ONLY the very basics of setting my recorders
up for different tapes.

It's the same thing. When you change tape types, you need to reset the
head azimuth too. Tapes of different stiffness and slightly different
width sit on the head differently. When you move from one tape to another
you need to do the physical alignment.

Also the physical alignment drifts. It's a good idea to check it weekly
for a machine that's in regular studio use.

Obviously I'd need an MRL tape for the type of
deck I'm using but then I would need to learn how to do this process.
Can someone point me to a site where I can learn how to do the very
BASIC procedure ?

It's described in the FAQ here, but the service manual for your recorder
also probably has a good description of it.

You may find it easier to get a tech to come over and show you. You
will need a cheap oscilloscope and signal generator (or a CD with
tones on it), and the MRL tape. If the metering on your machine is
less than accurate (which is typical for Tascam) you may also want an
outboard VU meter, although you can probably live without it.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Great advice. Thank you.

~Daniel

hank alrich wrote:

mike wrote:

The 1980's machines need 1 mil thick tape. 456 is
the recommended tape from Tascam. Plus they only recommend Quantegy
Tape.

I thought 456 was 1.5 mil and 457 was was the 1 mil tape. I'd have to go
dig out a reel to check.

You are right.

--
ha

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* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
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JP Morris wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Some heads are designed to put up with
the extra wear caused by 1.5mil tape.

Where do you come up with these theories?

He didn't make it up.. I've heard that one too. I don't know
where it came from originally.

People battling to get consumer decks, example A77, to behave with
standard tape, example PER525, that needs more tape tension than the
deck can provide for proper head contact.


Kind regards

Peter Larsen


--
*******************************************
* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
*******************************************

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Generally, the magnetic coating on 1mil tape is the same thickness as
that
on 1.5mil tape. In any case, what does the thickness have to do with head
wear?

I think it's supposed to be something to do with how closely the tape
wraps
around the head. That will be determined by the stiffness of the tape,
which
in turn will depend on the thickness of the plastic.

So the logic would be that, as thinner tape "clings" better to the head
(which has been the common belief for 50 years), there will be increased
friction, and therefore greater head wear? It's plausible, I guess. (Someone
call Jamie and Adam!)

Pro tapes tend to be less concerned with head wear than with contact.
Also a more rigid tape touching less of the head will have greater
contact force pr. square meter and thus more abrasion even if having the
same coating.


Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
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* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
*******************************************

RD Jones wrote:

Paul Stamler wrote:

You are correct. As for recommending Quantegy tape...Quantegy tape is the
new name for Ampex tape. It's all you can buy new. If you stick with
Quantegy as opposed to Ampex, that means it's new enough to have a
(hopefully) new formula so it won't develop sticky-shed.

I'm in the process of doing some transfers now...
Are Ampex the only tapes that go "sticky" ?

No. It is more like BASF is only one.

I've never encountered anything else that has
but thought I'd ask.

Agfa 368 will go sticky shed, but slower than the tape the pro's lost
their recordings of what was worth to record on, even Fuji's excellent
clone of the Agfa tape will go sticky. The tapes to worry about are
generally those with brown oxide and a black rear coating. I have
assumed that my BASF's would not go sticky - their smell is drastically
differnt- perhaps it is getting to be time to verify.

rd


Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
*******************************************
* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
*******************************************

Some heads are designed to put up with
the extra wear caused by 1.5mil tape.

Where do you come up with these theories?

He didn't make it up.. I've heard that one too. I don't know
where it came from originally.

People battling to get consumer decks, example A77, to behave with
standard tape, example PER525, that needs more tape tension than the
deck can provide for proper head contact.

Thanks for the clarification. It seems to make sense.

Note, however, that the original remark stated the greater wear was _caused_
by 1.5mil tape. It was _not_ -- it was the greater force produced by the
greater tape tension needed.

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Some heads are designed to put up with
the extra wear caused by 1.5mil tape.

Where do you come up with these theories?

He didn't make it up.. I've heard that one too. I don't know
where it came from originally.

People battling to get consumer decks, example A77, to behave with
standard tape, example PER525, that needs more tape tension than the
deck can provide for proper head contact.

Thanks for the clarification. It seems to make sense.

Note, however, that the original remark stated the greater wear was _caused_
by 1.5mil tape. It was _not_ -- it was the greater force produced by the
greater tape tension needed.

Yes, it came across as if it was the thickness of the backing that was
the wear factor. I just wish I had used Fuji instead of Ampex, I was
talked away from it by people claiming it had worse copy-effecst than
the Ampex. But also way better treble and it was way less degraded when
I made the Great Transcription of what seemed the mosts vital. Giving
advice is awfully difficult, there is always the unexpected ....


Kind regards

Peter Larsen


--
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* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
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