I just bought a 10 inch JL W7 for my car and was wondering what the best
specific amp would be for it. The sub is best around 500W, but can handle
up to around 600. I will most likely be driving it up a little over 500,
does anyone have a nice amp that I could buy (I am willing to spend any
amount of $)?

have you considered looking at the JL Audio 500/1, that sub you
purchased was designed specifically by JL to be run with that amp, but
it obviously can be run with others too, if you look at the paper work
that came with your sub you will see that JL has printed out guidelines
on a very optimal place to start when it comes to setting that specific
sub up with that specific amp, and imo they are very nice.
the JL 500/1 is rather under-rated at 500 watts, i read a review
somewhere stating that the 500/1 amp put out closer to 585 - 600 watts,
but that also is determent on ventilation of the amp.
just as with computer equipment and automobile engines the cooler
you can keep it the better it shall perform
but that does not mean to pack your amp in ice either (ha-ha)

oh yeah, they retail for somewhere around $550?
a good general rule of thumb i have found to be true is $1 for watt,
that also stands true for the amuture radio world as well.

but that price is also dependant upon features, I.E. 2ch/4ch, class
D/A/AB..., name brand, store reputation, or how highly they regard
themselves, market place, ................................

kinda expensive.

"winkenstein" wrote in message
oups.com...
oh yeah, they retail for somewhere around $550?
a good general rule of thumb i have found to be true is $1 for watt,
that also stands true for the amuture radio world as well.

I might have to replace my Phoenix Gold ZX500 soon, and I did some looking
around and was really happy with Rockford Phosgate's T10001bd amp. If you
search on eBay you can find them for under $400.

Tony



--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

scott johnson net May 30, 8:23 pm show options

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "scott johnson" (net) - Find messages
by this author
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 20:23:26 -0400
Local: Mon,May 30 2005 8:23 pm
Subject: Amp for 10" JL W7?
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kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,
like let's say, oh - i don't know, i'm just gonna throw outy a name or
two, or three that is sinanomous for K-RAP (crap),
let me think, what names come to mind off the top of my head,
1. pyramid!!!!!
2. pyle (the name says it all)
3. boss

if you want some thing good, that is going to last make damn sure you
get a very good name, please make sure your going to be getting
something that you WILL be proud of, for years to come.

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub as beautiful as the W7 line.
if you have to, by all means save as long as you have to for an amp to
push the W7,
if you do this, you'll be ever so proud of the investment.

kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put "500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under $1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before (without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to 30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

cld4342 wrote:
I just bought a 10 inch JL W7 for my car and was wondering what the
best specific amp would be for it. The sub is best around 500W, but
can handle up to around 600. I will most likely be driving it up a
little over 500, does anyone have a nice amp that I could buy (I am
willing to spend any amount of $)?

While winkenstein is pimping the heck out of JL ... my questions a
where did you get the W7?
why did you get the W7?
are you running any other amps?
how much juice can your alternator produce?
if money is no object, would it not make more sense to buy new (warranty
perspective)?

just wondering,


--
Dan Snooks

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,
like let's say, oh - i don't know, i'm just gonna throw outy a name or
two, or three that is sinanomous for K-RAP (crap),
let me think, what names come to mind off the top of my head,
1. pyramid!!!!!
2. pyle (the name says it all)
3. boss

if you want some thing good, that is going to last make damn sure you
get a very good name, please make sure your going to be getting
something that you WILL be proud of, for years to come.

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub as beautiful as the W7 line.
if you have to, by all means save as long as you have to for an amp to
push the W7,
if you do this, you'll be ever so proud of the investment.



Hmmm, I paid a dollar per watt 12 years ago. things have changed. Of course,
that was a Pyle Pro car amp back then. A different breed from what they make
now.

before you scoff, I bench tested that Pyle amp at 304 watts/channel into 2
ohms. it's still running everyday in a friends vehicle.

Nowadays, I would look into MTX, JBL, or any of the other good quality amps
out there.

Those are usually priced much better than at $1/watt.

Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300


"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before (without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to 30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

I am buying this subwoofer new for my Yukon because I know it is among the
best you can buy, and it is the type and power I am looking for for my
car. No I am not running any other subs, and money IS an object for me, I
just wanted to get the point across that a good price isn't first priority
here. In agreement with winkenstein (DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub
as beautiful as the W7 line.), quality is my first concern after the
investment I made on a good sub.

By the way, does anyone have any thoughts on an Audiobahn A8000T? It is
about 600W at 3 ohms and I have heard some good things. It doesn't quite
meet the 1$/W standard, but looks good...

While winkenstein is pimping the heck out of JL ... my questions a
where did you get the W7?
why did you get the W7?
are you running any other amps?
how much juice can your alternator produce?
if money is no object, would it not make more sense to buy new
(warranty
perspective)?


i can't help it, i found something that i truelly am fond of. that
being JL

I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300

read below:

Chad Wahls;
I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.




no doubt about it, listen to this dude, he's right on the mark with this one.
i'm willing to bet it is extremely overrated, or running at the point of thermal melt down to achieve that kind of rating, i can only imagine how distorted it must sound when it is pushing itself to it's exagerated claim of 2400 watts.
i don't know about you, but i personally find even 3rd degree burns to be very uncomfortable, let alone the 2nd or even possible 1st degree burns that one could incure at such extremes.

i'm not dogging audiobahn, i just think they are a bit extreme on there claims.
heck, audiobahn does make some decent stuff, i've got one of there DVD players in my ride, and that goes along with a pretty impressive list of popular name brand equipment in my car.



this is a list of what is in my car, it is all in a 2000 Hyundai
Elantra;
Jl 500/1
JL 300/4
JL 10W7 (ported box) w/ the black lacquer engraved face w/ the 3
aluminum cross bars on it from a sealed JL CLS110RG-W7 mounted around
the W7
JL 6W0's (x2) in the stock 6x9 locations
JL 5.25" coaxials in the stock lower front door locations (XR525-CX)
1" titanium dome MB Quart tweeters in the upper portions of the doors
(soon to be replaced W/) a pair of: JL XR100-CT tweeters (just waiting
for a good deal to come across) the JL's sound a lot less tingy, and
more realistic
Eclipse 7002 A/V headunit
Audiobahn AVDVD1P (DVD Player,mp3,drd-r/+r,cd-r/rw,cdv...)
Eclipse 21000 EQ
Eclipse 5083 (x2) 8 disc CD changers
BatCap Model 400
Optima Yellow top battery
and numerous other mods..... including but not limited to,
custom RCA's, directed terminals, directed distribution blocks,
Audiopipe ANL fused distribution block, Audiopipe battery terminals,
1/0 AWG power and ground wires ran through out vehicle, Viper 550ESP
alarm - W/ motion sensor, power window roll up/down modules, several
shock sensors, and varad scanners..........
plus much more......

thank you for reading my A/V mod list

cld4342 wrote:
I am buying this subwoofer new for my Yukon because I know it is
among the best you can buy, and it is the type and power I am looking
for for my car. No I am not running any other subs, and money IS an
object for me, I just wanted to get the point across that a good
price isn't first priority here. In agreement with winkenstein (DO
NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub as beautiful as the W7 line.),
quality is my first concern after the investment I made on a good sub.

Well ... I will try again (not trying to belabor my post, just looking for
info before throwing out recommendations)


where did you get the W7?
are you running any other amps? (your response stated you weren't running
any other subs, but that doesn't really answer the question)
how much juice can your alternator produce?

You did answer the why and money questions, but I was curious if you
intended to purchase a used amp (original post said "does anyone have a nice
amp that I could buy") ... that's why I asked about buying new.

Have you purchased the W7 yet? Unless you have listened to it installed in a
vehicle, I believe you may just be going on it's reputation. Quite honestly,
that sub was built for SPL competition. Yes it can sound nice, but for an
everyday listening system you can probably do better for a lot less $ and
less installation space (and less amplifier) Just a thought,

--
Dan Snooks

Sell you a brand new R/F bd1001 $699 shipping included


--
Mr sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=218843
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"winkenstein" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300

read below:

Chad Wahls;
I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.




no doubt about it, listen to this dude, he's right on the mark with this
one.
i'm willing to bet it is extremely overrated, or running at the point of
thermal melt down to achieve that kind of rating, i can only imagine how
distorted it must sound when it is pushing itself to it's exagerated
claim of 2400 watts.
i don't know about you, but i personally find even 3rd degree burns to be
very uncomfortable, let alone the 2nd or even possible 1st degree burns
that one could incure at such extremes.

i'm not dogging audiobahn, i just think they are a bit extreme on there
claims.
heck, audiobahn does make some decent stuff, i've got one of there DVD
players in my ride, and that goes along with a pretty impressive list of
popular name brand equipment in my car.



this is a list of what is in my car, it is all in a 2000 Hyundai
Elantra;
Jl 500/1
JL 300/4
JL 10W7 (ported box) w/ the black lacquer engraved face w/ the 3
aluminum cross bars on it from a sealed JL CLS110RG-W7 mounted around
the W7
JL 6W0's (x2) in the stock 6x9 locations
JL 5.25" coaxials in the stock lower front door locations (XR525-CX)
1" titanium dome MB Quart tweeters in the upper portions of the doors
(soon to be replaced W/) a pair of: JL XR100-CT tweeters (just waiting
for a good deal to come across) the JL's sound a lot less tingy, and
more realistic
Eclipse 7002 A/V headunit
Audiobahn AVDVD1P (DVD Player,mp3,drd-r/+r,cd-r/rw,cdv...)
Eclipse 21000 EQ
Eclipse 5083 (x2) 8 disc CD changers
BatCap Model 400
Optima Yellow top battery
and numerous other mods..... including but not limited to,
custom RCA's, directed terminals, directed distribution blocks,
Audiopipe ANL fused distribution block, Audiopipe battery terminals,
1/0 AWG power and ground wires ran through out vehicle, Viper 550ESP
alarm - W/ motion sensor, power window roll up/down modules, several
shock sensors, and varad scanners..........
plus much more......

thank you for reading my A/V mod list



Christ on a V-rod! I'm happy withy a single cd/xm/am/fm a great set of
components and a great sub, all with adequate power. How much time you have
in that install?

Chad

I got it off ebay for $300 shipped, I ordered the 2150HCT, which was a 1200w
RMS amp, but they messe dup and sent me the 2400w 2300HCT for the same
price.

MSRP on this amp is $999


"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
...

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design even
a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be
pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100
watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but
power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much
as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible
to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well
under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm
guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers
out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over
a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really
not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar
per
watt.

Oh, and yes, I know that Audiobahn is a bit overrated when it comes to their
higher output amps, but I sitll believe I get a good 2000w out of the amp.

And it sounds great, even pushed to it's max. I also have no heat issues
whatsoever. It's inside the non ventilated trunk of my 99 mustang GT, and
sitting out here in 105 degree Louisiana weather, and I still have no
problems running it at max output.




"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:axMne.27090$iU.2697@lakeread05...
I got it off ebay for $300 shipped, I ordered the 2150HCT, which was a
1200w
RMS amp, but they messe dup and sent me the 2400w 2300HCT for the same
price.

MSRP on this amp is $999


"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
...

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even
a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor
quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can
put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The
dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be
pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100
watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but
power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as
much
as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible
to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well
under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm
guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer
to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers
out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or
over
a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really
not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar
per
watt.

Oh, and yes, I know that Audiobahn is a bit overrated when it comes to
their
higher output amps, but I sitll believe I get a good 2000w out of the amp.

And it sounds great, even pushed to it's max. I also have no heat issues
whatsoever. It's inside the non ventilated trunk of my 99 mustang GT, and
sitting out here in 105 degree Louisiana weather, and I still have no
problems running it at max output.

Good to hear. Maybe Audiobahn doesn't make such "lousy", "horrible", "harsh
sounding" amplifiers as some people would have you believe.

While I don't have that model, I have the 2400w A2300HCT and it's an awesome
amp. Lots of people dislike audiobahn, but I don't know why. Everything I
have owned by them has been excellent.

"cld4342" wrote in message
lkaboutaudio.com...
By the way, does anyone have any thoughts on an Audiobahn A8000T? It is
about 600W at 3 ohms and I have heard some good things. It doesn't quite
meet the 1$/W standard, but looks good...