scott johnson net May 30, 8:23 pm show options

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "scott johnson" (net) - Find messages
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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 20:23:26 -0400
Local: Mon,May 30 2005 8:23 pm
Subject: Amp for 10" JL W7?
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kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,
like let's say, oh - i don't know, i'm just gonna throw outy a name or
two, or three that is sinanomous for K-RAP (crap),
let me think, what names come to mind off the top of my head,
1. pyramid!!!!!
2. pyle (the name says it all)
3. boss

if you want some thing good, that is going to last make damn sure you
get a very good name, please make sure your going to be getting
something that you WILL be proud of, for years to come.

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub as beautiful as the W7 line.
if you have to, by all means save as long as you have to for an amp to
push the W7,
if you do this, you'll be ever so proud of the investment.

kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put "500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under $1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before (without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to 30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300


"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before (without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to 30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100 watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar per
watt.

I got it off ebay for $300 shipped, I ordered the 2150HCT, which was a 1200w
RMS amp, but they messe dup and sent me the 2400w 2300HCT for the same
price.

MSRP on this amp is $999


"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
...

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design even
a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news
kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be
pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100
watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but
power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as much
as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible
to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well
under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm
guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers
out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or over
a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really
not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar
per
watt.

Oh, and yes, I know that Audiobahn is a bit overrated when it comes to their
higher output amps, but I sitll believe I get a good 2000w out of the amp.

And it sounds great, even pushed to it's max. I also have no heat issues
whatsoever. It's inside the non ventilated trunk of my 99 mustang GT, and
sitting out here in 105 degree Louisiana weather, and I still have no
problems running it at max output.




"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:axMne.27090$iU.2697@lakeread05...
I got it off ebay for $300 shipped, I ordered the 2150HCT, which was a
1200w
RMS amp, but they messe dup and sent me the 2400w 2300HCT for the same
price.

MSRP on this amp is $999


"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
...

"Erik Hovind" wrote in message
news:eeRme.61902$sy6.15413@lakeread04...
Yeah, $1 per watt is definately off. I just picked up a 2400w RMS
Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300



I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even
a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.

Chad

"MZ" wrote in message
news kinda expensive.

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor
quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,

Yeah, but then it's not really 500 watts, is it? I mean, Boss can
put
"500
watts" on their amps but it doesn't make it a 500 watt amp. The
dollar
per
watt thing doesn't really apply anyway because it turns out to be
pretty
nonlinear. A lot of manufacturers will put out, for example, a 100
watt,
200 watt, and 500 watt version of a certain model - everything but
power
being pretty much equal. But the 500 watt amp rarely costs 5x as
much
as
the 100 watt amp.

In any case, with the advent of class D amplifiers, it's now possible
to
get
a good reliable amplifier without the exaggerated ratings for well
under
$1
per watt. Part of the reason is that high powered amps are more
commonplace
now - the other part is that they just use less metal than before
(without
any knowledge of the business practices of these companies, I'm
guessing
the
heatsinks tend to cost more than the components themselves). Look at
Directed or MTX class D amps, for example, and you're talking closer
to
30
cents per watt. And those are beefy reliable amps.

There are of course exceptions. There are several popular amplifiers
out
there - McIntosh, Brax, etc - that end up running you close to or
over
a
dollar per watt. Great amps, no doubt, but the added price is really
not
going to buy you anything. I think there's quite clearly a
price/reliability/performance asymptote, and it's well under a dollar
per
watt.

Oh, and yes, I know that Audiobahn is a bit overrated when it comes to
their
higher output amps, but I sitll believe I get a good 2000w out of the amp.

And it sounds great, even pushed to it's max. I also have no heat issues
whatsoever. It's inside the non ventilated trunk of my 99 mustang GT, and
sitting out here in 105 degree Louisiana weather, and I still have no
problems running it at max output.

Good to hear. Maybe Audiobahn doesn't make such "lousy", "horrible", "harsh
sounding" amplifiers as some people would have you believe.

I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300

read below:

Chad Wahls;
I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.




no doubt about it, listen to this dude, he's right on the mark with this one.
i'm willing to bet it is extremely overrated, or running at the point of thermal melt down to achieve that kind of rating, i can only imagine how distorted it must sound when it is pushing itself to it's exagerated claim of 2400 watts.
i don't know about you, but i personally find even 3rd degree burns to be very uncomfortable, let alone the 2nd or even possible 1st degree burns that one could incure at such extremes.

i'm not dogging audiobahn, i just think they are a bit extreme on there claims.
heck, audiobahn does make some decent stuff, i've got one of there DVD players in my ride, and that goes along with a pretty impressive list of popular name brand equipment in my car.



this is a list of what is in my car, it is all in a 2000 Hyundai
Elantra;
Jl 500/1
JL 300/4
JL 10W7 (ported box) w/ the black lacquer engraved face w/ the 3
aluminum cross bars on it from a sealed JL CLS110RG-W7 mounted around
the W7
JL 6W0's (x2) in the stock 6x9 locations
JL 5.25" coaxials in the stock lower front door locations (XR525-CX)
1" titanium dome MB Quart tweeters in the upper portions of the doors
(soon to be replaced W/) a pair of: JL XR100-CT tweeters (just waiting
for a good deal to come across) the JL's sound a lot less tingy, and
more realistic
Eclipse 7002 A/V headunit
Audiobahn AVDVD1P (DVD Player,mp3,drd-r/+r,cd-r/rw,cdv...)
Eclipse 21000 EQ
Eclipse 5083 (x2) 8 disc CD changers
BatCap Model 400
Optima Yellow top battery
and numerous other mods..... including but not limited to,
custom RCA's, directed terminals, directed distribution blocks,
Audiopipe ANL fused distribution block, Audiopipe battery terminals,
1/0 AWG power and ground wires ran through out vehicle, Viper 550ESP
alarm - W/ motion sensor, power window roll up/down modules, several
shock sensors, and varad scanners..........
plus much more......

thank you for reading my A/V mod list

"winkenstein" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just picked up a 2400w RMS Audiobahn
AW2300HCT for less than $300

read below:

Chad Wahls;
I wanna see a pic and component count of a $300 2400 watt power amp. Do
you
realize that this will draw 200A in a perfect world, more like 250A if
it's
class D. I want to shake the hand of the engineer that could design
even a
$300 2400 watt switching power supply that has a decent SOA.




no doubt about it, listen to this dude, he's right on the mark with this
one.
i'm willing to bet it is extremely overrated, or running at the point of
thermal melt down to achieve that kind of rating, i can only imagine how
distorted it must sound when it is pushing itself to it's exagerated
claim of 2400 watts.
i don't know about you, but i personally find even 3rd degree burns to be
very uncomfortable, let alone the 2nd or even possible 1st degree burns
that one could incure at such extremes.

i'm not dogging audiobahn, i just think they are a bit extreme on there
claims.
heck, audiobahn does make some decent stuff, i've got one of there DVD
players in my ride, and that goes along with a pretty impressive list of
popular name brand equipment in my car.



this is a list of what is in my car, it is all in a 2000 Hyundai
Elantra;
Jl 500/1
JL 300/4
JL 10W7 (ported box) w/ the black lacquer engraved face w/ the 3
aluminum cross bars on it from a sealed JL CLS110RG-W7 mounted around
the W7
JL 6W0's (x2) in the stock 6x9 locations
JL 5.25" coaxials in the stock lower front door locations (XR525-CX)
1" titanium dome MB Quart tweeters in the upper portions of the doors
(soon to be replaced W/) a pair of: JL XR100-CT tweeters (just waiting
for a good deal to come across) the JL's sound a lot less tingy, and
more realistic
Eclipse 7002 A/V headunit
Audiobahn AVDVD1P (DVD Player,mp3,drd-r/+r,cd-r/rw,cdv...)
Eclipse 21000 EQ
Eclipse 5083 (x2) 8 disc CD changers
BatCap Model 400
Optima Yellow top battery
and numerous other mods..... including but not limited to,
custom RCA's, directed terminals, directed distribution blocks,
Audiopipe ANL fused distribution block, Audiopipe battery terminals,
1/0 AWG power and ground wires ran through out vehicle, Viper 550ESP
alarm - W/ motion sensor, power window roll up/down modules, several
shock sensors, and varad scanners..........
plus much more......

thank you for reading my A/V mod list



Christ on a V-rod! I'm happy withy a single cd/xm/am/fm a great set of
components and a great sub, all with adequate power. How much time you have
in that install?

Chad

well that all depends on if you want quality or junk

if you buy a product like JL, your going to be getting a TRUE 500
WATTS, not some trumped up max wattage, max distortion, poor quality,
child labor manufactured B.S.,
like let's say, oh - i don't know, i'm just gonna throw outy a name or
two, or three that is sinanomous for K-RAP (crap),
let me think, what names come to mind off the top of my head,
1. pyramid!!!!!
2. pyle (the name says it all)
3. boss

if you want some thing good, that is going to last make damn sure you
get a very good name, please make sure your going to be getting
something that you WILL be proud of, for years to come.

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a sub as beautiful as the W7 line.
if you have to, by all means save as long as you have to for an amp to
push the W7,
if you do this, you'll be ever so proud of the investment.



Hmmm, I paid a dollar per watt 12 years ago. things have changed. Of course,
that was a Pyle Pro car amp back then. A different breed from what they make
now.

before you scoff, I bench tested that Pyle amp at 304 watts/channel into 2
ohms. it's still running everyday in a friends vehicle.

Nowadays, I would look into MTX, JBL, or any of the other good quality amps
out there.

Those are usually priced much better than at $1/watt.