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e.maynard
 
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Default Amplifier Recommendation for Nearfields

Any recommendation for a fanless, balanced in 2 channel amplifier to
power a pair of AR 18S speakers. In the past I've used a Hafler Pro2400
which sounded fine, but has since been moved to a different location.
The first thing that came to mind was a Hafler P1500 or a P3000, but
there must be other options above the Alesis/Samson/ART type amplifiers.

Thanks for any help.
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Scott Dorsey
 
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e.maynard wrote:
Any recommendation for a fanless, balanced in 2 channel amplifier to
power a pair of AR 18S speakers. In the past I've used a Hafler Pro2400
which sounded fine, but has since been moved to a different location.
The first thing that came to mind was a Hafler P1500 or a P3000, but
there must be other options above the Alesis/Samson/ART type amplifiers.


The Haflers are hard to beat, and they are cheap for what you get.

Another alternative would be high grade home audio amps, like the
Adcom, Parasound, or Bryston stuff. Most of these have only unbalanced
inputs, but the mid-fi gear tends to be available cheaply now that the
home theatre thing has taken over the consumer market.

The next step up is more expensive, like Aragon/Krell/Nelson Pass stuff.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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Sugarite
 
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The first thing that came to mind was a Hafler P1500 or a P3000, but
there must be other options above the Alesis/Samson/ART type amplifiers.


You're not going to find a better value than a Hafler (except maybe a used
Hafler). If you're looking to upgrade from there, the next clear value is a
Bryston.

And I'll add a few names to Scott's mid-fi options - Creek and Cambridge -
though I don't think they'll offer Hafler value when it comes to
professional headroom.

You considered powered monitors? The AR 18S is classic, but I dare suggest
they aren't the most neutral speakers around, and might be best relegated to
alternate duty, which doesn't require full headroom, so a 50W Yammy would
suffice. Myself I'd rather mix on $350 Behringer Truths.


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e.maynard
 
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"Another alternative would be high grade home audio amps, like the
Adcom, Parasound, or Bryston stuff. Most of these have only unbalanced
inputs"



Scott... What would be a correct way to interface balanced lined coming
into a home type amp?







e.maynard wrote:
Any recommendation for a fanless, balanced in 2 channel amplifier to
power a pair of AR 18S speakers. In the past I've used a Hafler Pro2400
which sounded fine, but has since been moved to a different location.
The first thing that came to mind was a Hafler P1500 or a P3000, but
there must be other options above the Alesis/Samson/ART type amplifiers.

Thanks for any help.

  #5   Report Post  
 
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I'll throw in one of the used Urei amps. I've got a couple of the 6260
amps that are great. They're really cheap these days on ebay. I've
seen them go in the $200-300 range recently. More than enough power
for a set of nearfields.

later,
m



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Scott Dorsey
 
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e.maynard wrote:
"Another alternative would be high grade home audio amps, like the
Adcom, Parasound, or Bryston stuff. Most of these have only unbalanced
inputs"

Scott... What would be a correct way to interface balanced lined coming
into a home type amp?


One signal pin on the XLR to the center pin on the RCA, the other signal
pin and the ground pin to the shield. Lift shields if there is a noise
problem. The Rane site discusses this.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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e.maynard
 
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
e.maynard wrote:

"Another alternative would be high grade home audio amps, like the
Adcom, Parasound, or Bryston stuff. Most of these have only unbalanced
inputs"

Scott... What would be a correct way to interface balanced lined coming
into a home type amp?



One signal pin on the XLR to the center pin on the RCA, the other signal
pin and the ground pin to the shield. Lift shields if there is a noise
problem. The Rane site discusses this.
--scott




Would the level (+4) potentially overdrive the inputs of a Home Amp?
Assuming the input wants to see -10.
Are NAD amps a decent choice compared to the Adcom, Parasound, or
Bryston stuff? You've metioned specific Adcom models as being better
than others. Can you refresh my memory?


Thanks a lot..........
  #8   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
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wrote:
I'll throw in one of the used Urei amps. I've got a couple of the 6260
amps that are great. They're really cheap these days on ebay. I've
seen them go in the $200-300 range recently. More than enough power
for a set of nearfields.


I agree, some of those amps are real sleepers. I have a rack of the
smaller units as part of my portable film sound rig and they are really
quite clean but also rugged. Not a lot of power for the weight, though.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #9   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
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e.maynard wrote:

Would the level (+4) potentially overdrive the inputs of a Home Amp?
Assuming the input wants to see -10.


If you turn it up too much, yes. So don't do that.
If it's a real problem you can add a resistive pad in there for a few
bucks.

Are NAD amps a decent choice compared to the Adcom, Parasound, or
Bryston stuff? You've metioned specific Adcom models as being better
than others. Can you refresh my memory?


I never much liked the NAD amps, but part of that has to do with the fact
that they are no fun to repair and have a lot of stuff in them that seems
more touchy than it should be. The Adcom GFA535 seems to be the best of
the set with the GFA555 next up. I don't know how well the larger amps
perform. None of them are bad.

Some of the higher grade amps like the Aragons occasionally turn up at
reasonable prices, too.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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e.maynard
 
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
e.maynard wrote:

Would the level (+4) potentially overdrive the inputs of a Home Amp?
Assuming the input wants to see -10.



If you turn it up too much, yes. So don't do that.
If it's a real problem you can add a resistive pad in there for a few
bucks.



--scott



Any suggestions on the resistive pad?

-Thanks


  #11   Report Post  
e.maynard
 
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
e.maynard wrote:

Would the level (+4) potentially overdrive the inputs of a Home Amp?
Assuming the input wants to see -10.



If you turn it up too much, yes. So don't do that.
If it's a real problem you can add a resistive pad in there for a few
bucks.


Are NAD amps a decent choice compared to the Adcom, Parasound, or
Bryston stuff? You've metioned specific Adcom models as being better
than others. Can you refresh my memory?



I never much liked the NAD amps, but part of that has to do with the fact
that they are no fun to repair and have a lot of stuff in them that seems
more touchy than it should be. The Adcom GFA535 seems to be the best of
the set with the GFA555 next up. I don't know how well the larger amps
perform. None of them are bad.

Some of the higher grade amps like the Aragons occasionally turn up at
reasonable prices, too.
--scott




Hi. Is there any difference between a GFA535 and a GFA535-II?


Thanks




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Scott Dorsey
 
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e.maynard wrote:
Scott Dorsey wrote:
e.maynard wrote:

Would the level (+4) potentially overdrive the inputs of a Home Amp?
Assuming the input wants to see -10.



If you turn it up too much, yes. So don't do that.
If it's a real problem you can add a resistive pad in there for a few
bucks.


Any suggestions on the resistive pad?


You can make your own or buy one of the Shure or Audio-Technica ones.
I'd tend to shoot for 10dB loss but you might want 20dB. Probably not
really needed at all, though.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #13   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
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e.maynard wrote:

Hi. Is there any difference between a GFA535 and a GFA535-II?


The electronics are mostly the same. I don't really know if there are
any sonic differences but I wouldn't worry about it. There is another
model that comes with a volume control as well, but it is comparatively
rare.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #14   Report Post  
Sugarite
 
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The Adcom GFA535 seems to be the best of
the set with the GFA555 next up. I don't know how well the larger amps
perform. None of them are bad.


I made the same conclusion about the GFA535, the bigger amps are good, but
the baby is the stand-out.


  #15   Report Post  
Eric Desrochers
 
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Most (all?) Bryston amps are availables with balanced XLR inputs.
Either current models or lagacy ones.


--
Eric (Dero) Desrochers
http://homepage.mac.com/dero72

Hiroshima 45, Tchernobyl 86, Windows 95


  #16   Report Post  
Eric Desrochers
 
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e.maynard wrote:

Hi. Is there any difference between a GFA535 and a GFA535-II?


Thanks


The II version lost the A/B speaker outputs and accompaning switch,
which might be better or worst, depending on your needs/requirments.

There is supposed to be improvements in the electronics too. Something
with lower distorsion and higher current capacity.

--
Eric (Dero) Desrochers
http://homepage.mac.com/dero72

Hiroshima 45, Tchernobyl 86, Windows 95
  #17   Report Post  
?
 
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I happen to be looking at purchasing a Adcom also, but how would the
Parasound A23 compare if you don't mind spending the extra money. I
can get a Adcom GFA-535II for less then $200 at the dealer used or a
get a demo Parasound for $600.

Thank you,
Chris


Scott Dorsey wrote:
wrote:
I'll throw in one of the used Urei amps. I've got a couple of the

6260
amps that are great. They're really cheap these days on ebay. I've
seen them go in the $200-300 range recently. More than enough power
for a set of nearfields.


I agree, some of those amps are real sleepers. I have a rack of the
smaller units as part of my portable film sound rig and they are

really
quite clean but also rugged. Not a lot of power for the weight,

though.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."


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