Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year and
clean as a whistle.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100528229k@trad...

In article writes:

If you change the anode rods out, they can last an amazingly long time.
This
information seems to have been forgotten sometime in the past 30 years
or so.

I have a gas water heater. I suspect that the failure mode is that
sediment collects on the bottom, which eventually insulates the water
from the burner. I've tried diligently draining the tank a couple of
times a year and that doesn't seem to help. Maybe I should fill it
with vinegar occasionally like I do with my coffee pots? g



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year and
clean as a whistle.


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
and
clean as a whistle.


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

Roger W. Norman wrote:

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's normal
consumption. Obviously other factors come into play, and I wasn't really
trying to get into this line of reasoning.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"S O'Neill" wrote in message
...
Roger W. Norman wrote:

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces
of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a
method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe
with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

Roger W. Norman wrote:

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's normal
consumption.

Although that's not really and apples-to-apples comparison, since
a car battery operates at a nominal 12V and a house (in the USA)
operates at a nominal 120V RMS. 270A at 12V is the same amount
of power as 27A at 120V. That would barely drive the air conditioner
in my apartment, and then there are all the lights, computers, etc.

- Logan

Math was never my strong suit, as I've often complained to Dr. Nuke about
when he brings up math for audio questions.

I do know that I haven't been killed by electricity even though I have done
everything in a house except run power from the pole.

But thanks, Logan. You are right.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Logan Shaw" wrote in message
...
Roger W. Norman wrote:

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to
accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's
normal
consumption.

Although that's not really and apples-to-apples comparison, since
a car battery operates at a nominal 12V and a house (in the USA)
operates at a nominal 120V RMS. 270A at 12V is the same amount
of power as 27A at 120V. That would barely drive the air conditioner
in my apartment, and then there are all the lights, computers, etc.

- Logan

Math was never my strong suit, as I've often complained to Dr. Nuke about
when he brings up math for audio questions.

I do know that I haven't been killed by electricity even though I have done
everything in a house except run power from the pole.

But thanks, Logan. You are right.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Logan Shaw" wrote in message
...
Roger W. Norman wrote:

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to
accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's
normal
consumption.

Although that's not really and apples-to-apples comparison, since
a car battery operates at a nominal 12V and a house (in the USA)
operates at a nominal 120V RMS. 270A at 12V is the same amount
of power as 27A at 120V. That would barely drive the air conditioner
in my apartment, and then there are all the lights, computers, etc.

- Logan

Roger W. Norman wrote:

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's normal
consumption.

Although that's not really and apples-to-apples comparison, since
a car battery operates at a nominal 12V and a house (in the USA)
operates at a nominal 120V RMS. 270A at 12V is the same amount
of power as 27A at 120V. That would barely drive the air conditioner
in my apartment, and then there are all the lights, computers, etc.

- Logan

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's normal
consumption. Obviously other factors come into play, and I wasn't really
trying to get into this line of reasoning.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"S O'Neill" wrote in message
...
Roger W. Norman wrote:

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces
of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a
method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe
with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

In article writes:

That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Mike Rivers wrote:

In article writes:


That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.


If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

Yoobetchya, but he was going to power a house with it.

Yoobetchya, but he was going to power a house with it.

No I weren't! g I said:

"Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?"

I mean, a "million miles of copper and black pipe" should have been a clue!
g Funny, but on the macrocosmic spectrum of the universe, it takes
ungodly amounts of material to garner small amounts of power (virtually
negligable), but on the microscopic spectrum, the smallest particles can
emanate vast scales of energy. Perhaps somewhere inbetween we can power a
house. In the meantime, I'll keep 10 gallons of gas on hand to feed my
generator when I need power and everyone else doesn't have it. Obviously, I
don't trust in the million miles of pipe theory! g I don't even have the
breath to take a toke off that pipe.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"S O'Neill" wrote in message
...
Mike Rivers wrote:

In article writes:


That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.


If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

Yoobetchya, but he was going to power a house with it.

No I weren't! g I said:

"Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?"

I mean, a "million miles of copper and black pipe" should have been a clue!
g Funny, but on the macrocosmic spectrum of the universe, it takes
ungodly amounts of material to garner small amounts of power (virtually
negligable), but on the microscopic spectrum, the smallest particles can
emanate vast scales of energy. Perhaps somewhere inbetween we can power a
house. In the meantime, I'll keep 10 gallons of gas on hand to feed my
generator when I need power and everyone else doesn't have it. Obviously, I
don't trust in the million miles of pipe theory! g I don't even have the
breath to take a toke off that pipe.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"S O'Neill" wrote in message
...
Mike Rivers wrote:

In article writes:


That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.


If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

Mike Rivers wrote:

In article writes:


That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.


If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

Yoobetchya, but he was going to power a house with it.

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100606650k@trad...

In article writes:

That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

We're back to boats again.

Peace,
Paul

x-no archive: yes

Paul Stamler wrote:

We're back to boats again.

I want to build my own water heater, to save a little money and also get
better performance.

--
ha

x-no archive: yes

Paul Stamler wrote:

We're back to boats again.

I want to build my own water heater, to save a little money and also get
better performance.

--
ha

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100606650k@trad...

In article writes:

That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.

We're back to boats again.

Peace,
Paul

In article writes:

That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Roger W. Norman wrote:

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?


Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham



--

Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
and
clean as a whistle.


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

Pooh Bear wrote:

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:


Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham

Black Pipe is used for GAS lines
George

George Gleason wrote:

Pooh Bear wrote:

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:


Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham

Black Pipe is used for GAS lines
George

I suspected it might be that. Is it made of steel ?

Over here ( UK ) the gas pipe to the heater will be copper ( as is the water too
).

The gas entering my home starts off as a steel pipe though - and then is converted
to copper inside the property.

Never seen any examples over here of the 'orange discolouration'.


Graham

From: Pooh Bear

Over here ( UK ) the gas pipe to the heater will be copper ( as is the water
too
).

The gas entering my home starts off as a steel pipe though - and then is
converted
to copper inside the property.

Never seen any examples over here of the 'orange discolouration'.

Your copper gas lines must be different material from water lines (USA spec):

Copper water tube is a seamless, almost pure copper material manufactured to
the requirements of ASTM B 88 €“ Standard Specification for Seamless Copper
Water Tube, of three basic wall thickness dimensions designated as types K, L,
and M. Type K is the thickest and type M is the thinnest with type L being of
intermediate thickness. All three types of tube are manufactured from copper
alloy C12200 having a chemical composition of a minimum of 99.9% Copper (Cu)
and Silver (Ag) combined and a maximum allowable range of Phosphorous (P) of
0.015 % - 0.040 %.

This stuff, when used with flare fittings for gas connections to water heaters
etc., does get orange especially where the copper was stressed to form the
flare, though they might take some years to fail. Leaks in older plain soft
copper connectors are "usual" (more than common); the flares are seen to be
orange and/or black and crumbly upon disassembly ("hydrogen embrittlement").
Coated corrugated copper lines and all-stainless steel flexi lines (still flare
ends on half union fittings) have replaced plain soft copper flare connectors,
I believe at least since the 1984 Uniform Code. --TP

From: Pooh Bear

Over here ( UK ) the gas pipe to the heater will be copper ( as is the water
too
).

The gas entering my home starts off as a steel pipe though - and then is
converted
to copper inside the property.

Never seen any examples over here of the 'orange discolouration'.

Your copper gas lines must be different material from water lines (USA spec):

Copper water tube is a seamless, almost pure copper material manufactured to
the requirements of ASTM B 88 €“ Standard Specification for Seamless Copper
Water Tube, of three basic wall thickness dimensions designated as types K, L,
and M. Type K is the thickest and type M is the thinnest with type L being of
intermediate thickness. All three types of tube are manufactured from copper
alloy C12200 having a chemical composition of a minimum of 99.9% Copper (Cu)
and Silver (Ag) combined and a maximum allowable range of Phosphorous (P) of
0.015 % - 0.040 %.

This stuff, when used with flare fittings for gas connections to water heaters
etc., does get orange especially where the copper was stressed to form the
flare, though they might take some years to fail. Leaks in older plain soft
copper connectors are "usual" (more than common); the flares are seen to be
orange and/or black and crumbly upon disassembly ("hydrogen embrittlement").
Coated corrugated copper lines and all-stainless steel flexi lines (still flare
ends on half union fittings) have replaced plain soft copper flare connectors,
I believe at least since the 1984 Uniform Code. --TP

George Gleason wrote:

Pooh Bear wrote:

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:


Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham

Black Pipe is used for GAS lines
George

I suspected it might be that. Is it made of steel ?

Over here ( UK ) the gas pipe to the heater will be copper ( as is the water too
).

The gas entering my home starts off as a steel pipe though - and then is converted
to copper inside the property.

Never seen any examples over here of the 'orange discolouration'.


Graham

Pooh Bear wrote:

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:


Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?



Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham

Black Pipe is used for GAS lines
George

In article writes:

Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Iron (or actually steel) pipe, which just happens to be black. Not
copper, not PVC, not lead.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Actually, it's galvanized steel with a carbon component that gives the black
appearance and stops it from having pinprick leaks like galvanized steel
does in water pipes.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100639548k@trad...

In article
writes:

Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Iron (or actually steel) pipe, which just happens to be black. Not
copper, not PVC, not lead.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

From: "Roger W. Norman"

[black pipe]
Actually, it's galvanized steel with a carbon component that gives the black
appearance and stops it from having pinprick leaks like galvanized steel
does in water pipes.

In plumbing, we used black pipe per this description (from Keidel Co.):

When steel pipe is forged, a black oxide scale forms on its surface to give it
the finish we see on this type of pipe. Because steel is subject to rust and
corrosion, the factory also coats it with protective oil.
It is used for gas distribution inside and outside the house, and for hot water
circulation in boiler systems. It is not used for potable water, or for drain
waste, or vent lines.
It is sold in standard 21-foot lengths TBE.
Black pipe is cut and threaded to fit the job. Fittings for this type of pipe
are of black malleable (soft) cast iron.

"Black galvanized" pipe I don't think I've ever seen. Even in moist crawl
spaces, cheap old "black iron" pipe doesn't seem to rust away. For underground
use, the pipe is coated with "tar" and then a plastic sleeve (usually yellow)
is applied. Buried joints are taped to minimize exposure to soil and water.
--TP

From: "Roger W. Norman"

[black pipe]
Actually, it's galvanized steel with a carbon component that gives the black
appearance and stops it from having pinprick leaks like galvanized steel
does in water pipes.

In plumbing, we used black pipe per this description (from Keidel Co.):

When steel pipe is forged, a black oxide scale forms on its surface to give it
the finish we see on this type of pipe. Because steel is subject to rust and
corrosion, the factory also coats it with protective oil.
It is used for gas distribution inside and outside the house, and for hot water
circulation in boiler systems. It is not used for potable water, or for drain
waste, or vent lines.
It is sold in standard 21-foot lengths TBE.
Black pipe is cut and threaded to fit the job. Fittings for this type of pipe
are of black malleable (soft) cast iron.

"Black galvanized" pipe I don't think I've ever seen. Even in moist crawl
spaces, cheap old "black iron" pipe doesn't seem to rust away. For underground
use, the pipe is coated with "tar" and then a plastic sleeve (usually yellow)
is applied. Buried joints are taped to minimize exposure to soil and water.
--TP

Actually, it's galvanized steel with a carbon component that gives the black
appearance and stops it from having pinprick leaks like galvanized steel
does in water pipes.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100639548k@trad...

In article
writes:

Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Iron (or actually steel) pipe, which just happens to be black. Not
copper, not PVC, not lead.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Iron (or actually steel) pipe, which just happens to be black. Not
copper, not PVC, not lead.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?


Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham



--

Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
and
clean as a whistle.


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
and
clean as a whistle.


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

In article writes:

What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I wondered the same thing too, but I looked in the manual for my gas
water heater and sure enough, it has one. Obviously not
active-electrical since there's no electrical connection at all to
this water heater.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Mike Rivers wrote:
In article writes:


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?


I wondered the same thing too, but I looked in the manual for my gas
water heater and sure enough, it has one. Obviously not
active-electrical since there's no electrical connection at all to
this water heater.

Probably parasitic. Passive anodes are used to collect ions.


Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein

Bob Cain wrote:


Mike Rivers wrote:

In article
writes:


What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?



I wondered the same thing too, but I looked in the manual for my gas
water heater and sure enough, it has one. Obviously not
active-electrical since there's no electrical connection at all to
this water heater.


Probably parasitic. Passive anodes are used to collect ions.


Its a sacrificial anode. It gives up ions to the water so the pipes and
tank don't, therefore it erodes and is easy to replace.

A microsopic current flows between the pipes and the anode, generated by
the "battery" formed when the anode and the pipes are brought into
contact with the water. Impurities act as the electrolyte; distilled
water wouldn't need this.

S O'Neill wrote:
Bob Cain wrote:



Mike Rivers wrote:

In article
writes:

What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I wondered the same thing too, but I looked in the manual for my gas
water heater and sure enough, it has one. Obviously not
active-electrical since there's no electrical connection at all to
this water heater.

Probably parasitic. Passive anodes are used to collect ions.

Its a sacrificial anode. It gives up ions to the water so the pipes and
tank don't, therefore it erodes and is easy to replace.

Oops. I knew it was something like that. :-)


Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein