Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.
The tone was recorded and reproduced, but obviously very low. Looking
at the meters on the console set to read BUSS OUT I could see the tone
at 0 Vu. Switching the console meters to read the signal coming back
from the recorder showed a very weak signal. The funny thing is that
when I change de console oscillator to 10khz, the OTARI needles go
midway and then its easy to get to 0 Vu with a little tweak in the REC
gain pot.

As you probably noticed I'm not an expert in alignment!
I'd appreciate some advice (and yes, I've read the FAQ!).

Thanks,

J.P.

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:


The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.

Your problem, as you state, starts with the bias adjustment. If your
meters are pinning before you get a peak reading, back off the input
level of the 10kHz tone. It does not need to read 0vu for the bias
adjustment. Try sending the 10kHz tone to the machine -3vu and see if
you can get a peak then. If not, back it off further.

Once you have the bias set properly, I'll bet your record gain alignment
will work fine. It sounds like you aren't biasing the tape enough to get
it to actually record a healthy level.

--
Eric

Practice Your Mixing Skills
Multi-Track Masters on CD-ROM
www.Raw-Tracks.com

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:


The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.

Your problem, as you state, starts with the bias adjustment. If your
meters are pinning before you get a peak reading, back off the input
level of the 10kHz tone. It does not need to read 0vu for the bias
adjustment. Try sending the 10kHz tone to the machine -3vu and see if
you can get a peak then. If not, back it off further.

Once you have the bias set properly, I'll bet your record gain alignment
will work fine. It sounds like you aren't biasing the tape enough to get
it to actually record a healthy level.

--
Eric

Practice Your Mixing Skills
Multi-Track Masters on CD-ROM
www.Raw-Tracks.com

Even before aligning playback alignment, on many machines you need to
calibrate the VU meters. Run tone through the machine in Source mode,
measure the output level, set the level on the tone generator so the output
is nominal level (+4dBu on many or most machines) and set the meter cal so
that it reads 0 VU.

I said "many machines"; it's been years since I worked on an Otari, and
never an MTR90, so I may be talking nonsense; this may be one of those
machines where you set the meter cal AFTER everything else. Worth checking,
though.

Peace,
Paul

Even before aligning playback alignment, on many machines you need to
calibrate the VU meters. Run tone through the machine in Source mode,
measure the output level, set the level on the tone generator so the output
is nominal level (+4dBu on many or most machines) and set the meter cal so
that it reads 0 VU.

I said "many machines"; it's been years since I worked on an Otari, and
never an MTR90, so I may be talking nonsense; this may be one of those
machines where you set the meter cal AFTER everything else. Worth checking,
though.

Peace,
Paul

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

Umm... did you do the azimuth first? You need to make sure the azimuth is
correct before setting the repro gain and the repro EQ.

The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

It is if you are feeding too hot a signal into it. Turn the level on the
oscillator down... all you need is to find the peak, so it does not matter
what the actual level on the oscillator is as long as you can find the peak
with it.

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.
The tone was recorded and reproduced, but obviously very low. Looking
at the meters on the console set to read BUSS OUT I could see the tone
at 0 Vu. Switching the console meters to read the signal coming back
from the recorder showed a very weak signal. The funny thing is that
when I change de console oscillator to 10khz, the OTARI needles go
midway and then its easy to get to 0 Vu with a little tweak in the REC
gain pot.

If your bias is set wrong, trying to set gain is not going to work. If your
azimuth is set wrong, setting gain or EQ is futile. Go back and get the
azimuth and bias points right.

If before when you were setting the bias, the levels off-tape were too high,
and when you are trying to set the record levels, the levels off-tape are
too low, almost certainly you did something wrong in the process of setting
the bias.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

Umm... did you do the azimuth first? You need to make sure the azimuth is
correct before setting the repro gain and the repro EQ.

The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

It is if you are feeding too hot a signal into it. Turn the level on the
oscillator down... all you need is to find the peak, so it does not matter
what the actual level on the oscillator is as long as you can find the peak
with it.

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.
The tone was recorded and reproduced, but obviously very low. Looking
at the meters on the console set to read BUSS OUT I could see the tone
at 0 Vu. Switching the console meters to read the signal coming back
from the recorder showed a very weak signal. The funny thing is that
when I change de console oscillator to 10khz, the OTARI needles go
midway and then its easy to get to 0 Vu with a little tweak in the REC
gain pot.

If your bias is set wrong, trying to set gain is not going to work. If your
azimuth is set wrong, setting gain or EQ is futile. Go back and get the
azimuth and bias points right.

If before when you were setting the bias, the levels off-tape were too high,
and when you are trying to set the record levels, the levels off-tape are
too low, almost certainly you did something wrong in the process of setting
the bias.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

If your
meters are pinning before you get a peak reading, back off the input
level of the 10kHz tone. It does not need to read 0vu for the bias
adjustment. Try sending the 10kHz tone to the machine -3vu and see if
you can get a peak then. If not, back it off further.

Right. Just back off the oscillator's level until the 10 K tone is somewhere in
the middle of the meter's display range. Where exactly that is doesn't matter
as long as it's low enough on the scale that you can see the peak as you
increase bias, and can tell where the desired amount past that is. IIRC the MTR
90 (like my MX80) has a master bias pot so you can get the whole machine in the
ballpark quickly, then set the tone oscillator at about -3 and fine tune the
tracks individually. The exact input level of the tone still doesn't matter
though, only its rec/repro level in relation to the biasing peak. Once you're
done with bias, set the oscillator output to exactly 0db for the level and EQ
adjustments.


Ted Spencer, NYC

"No amount of classical training will ever teach you what's so cool about
"Tighten Up" by Archie Bell And The Drells" -author unknown

If your
meters are pinning before you get a peak reading, back off the input
level of the 10kHz tone. It does not need to read 0vu for the bias
adjustment. Try sending the 10kHz tone to the machine -3vu and see if
you can get a peak then. If not, back it off further.

Right. Just back off the oscillator's level until the 10 K tone is somewhere in
the middle of the meter's display range. Where exactly that is doesn't matter
as long as it's low enough on the scale that you can see the peak as you
increase bias, and can tell where the desired amount past that is. IIRC the MTR
90 (like my MX80) has a master bias pot so you can get the whole machine in the
ballpark quickly, then set the tone oscillator at about -3 and fine tune the
tracks individually. The exact input level of the tone still doesn't matter
though, only its rec/repro level in relation to the biasing peak. Once you're
done with bias, set the oscillator output to exactly 0db for the level and EQ
adjustments.


Ted Spencer, NYC

"No amount of classical training will ever teach you what's so cool about
"Tighten Up" by Archie Bell And The Drells" -author unknown

In article writes:

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

That's the right place to start. Actually, that's "+5.7" but no reason
to quibble about it.

recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Yes. This means you need to adjust the record level. It's a little
inconvenient if you're using the internal oscillator because that's
usually at a fixed level and you can't adjust it. Back off the Record
Level pot until you can keep the meter on scale through the peak. You
can get pretty close to make two adjustments at once if you find the
bias peak, set the record level so that the meter goes up to +3 VU,
then increase the bias so that the meter comes back down to 0 VU
(assuming you're adjusing for "3 dB over peak" - otherwise compensate
accordingly.)

You'll probalby have to tweak the record level again (it should be the
last thing you do) after you adjust the high frequency EQ, but you'll
be in the ballpark.

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.

Either the HF equalization is way off or something is very wrong. Are
the heads clean? Do you have the tape threaded correctly? Are you
using the same tape as you used for adjusting the bias? (not the
calibration tape, I hope!)


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

That's the right place to start. Actually, that's "+5.7" but no reason
to quibble about it.

recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Yes. This means you need to adjust the record level. It's a little
inconvenient if you're using the internal oscillator because that's
usually at a fixed level and you can't adjust it. Back off the Record
Level pot until you can keep the meter on scale through the peak. You
can get pretty close to make two adjustments at once if you find the
bias peak, set the record level so that the meter goes up to +3 VU,
then increase the bias so that the meter comes back down to 0 VU
(assuming you're adjusing for "3 dB over peak" - otherwise compensate
accordingly.)

You'll probalby have to tweak the record level again (it should be the
last thing you do) after you adjust the high frequency EQ, but you'll
be in the ballpark.

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.

Either the HF equalization is way off or something is very wrong. Are
the heads clean? Do you have the tape threaded correctly? Are you
using the same tape as you used for adjusting the bias? (not the
calibration tape, I hope!)


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

(J.P. Ambrogi) wrote in message . com...
Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.
The tone was recorded and reproduced, but obviously very low. Looking
at the meters on the console set to read BUSS OUT I could see the tone
at 0 Vu. Switching the console meters to read the signal coming back
from the recorder showed a very weak signal. The funny thing is that
when I change de console oscillator to 10khz, the OTARI needles go
midway and then its easy to get to 0 Vu with a little tweak in the REC
gain pot.

As you probably noticed I'm not an expert in alignment!
I'd appreciate some advice (and yes, I've read the FAQ!).

Thanks,

J.P.

You can do the playback alignment for teh repro and sync heads at 1k
and 10 before you do the
record bias adjustment. I'd start with that

Then, if you know your sending 0dBVU, set the "rec moni" to 0 before
doing the record alignment.

What everyone else said about only needing the peak is right for the
bias adjustment. All of the old time NYC techs recommend setting the
individual bias only one in a while and then using the master bias for
most of your alignemnts.

On thing to know about Otari heads - as the get wornd and need
relapping the put out more high end. IF you're having wierdness at
10k, there is a possiblity that your heads need relapping.

(J.P. Ambrogi) wrote in message . com...
Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.

I started with the playback alignment playing the 1khz signal on the
MRL tape and tweaking the repro gain pot 'till the meters read 0 Vu
(The reference fluxivity of my MRL is 355 nW and I was going for a +6
alignment). No problems here!

The problem started with Bias calibration: I loaded a blank tape and
recorded a
10 khz signal (from the console oscillator), with the remote set to
REPRO and started turning the bias pot just to discover that the
needle on the meter goes all the way to right (past +3) before
reaching the point of going back. Is it normal behaviour?

Then I went to do REC gain! Again recording a 1khz tone with the
remote set to REPRO, all tracks armed, and the needle (on all 24
meters) don't go past -20, no matter how much I turn the REC gain pot.
The tone was recorded and reproduced, but obviously very low. Looking
at the meters on the console set to read BUSS OUT I could see the tone
at 0 Vu. Switching the console meters to read the signal coming back
from the recorder showed a very weak signal. The funny thing is that
when I change de console oscillator to 10khz, the OTARI needles go
midway and then its easy to get to 0 Vu with a little tweak in the REC
gain pot.

As you probably noticed I'm not an expert in alignment!
I'd appreciate some advice (and yes, I've read the FAQ!).

Thanks,

J.P.

You can do the playback alignment for teh repro and sync heads at 1k
and 10 before you do the
record bias adjustment. I'd start with that

Then, if you know your sending 0dBVU, set the "rec moni" to 0 before
doing the record alignment.

What everyone else said about only needing the peak is right for the
bias adjustment. All of the old time NYC techs recommend setting the
individual bias only one in a while and then using the master bias for
most of your alignemnts.

On thing to know about Otari heads - as the get wornd and need
relapping the put out more high end. IF you're having wierdness at
10k, there is a possiblity that your heads need relapping.

In article writes:

On thing to know about Otari heads - as the get wornd and need
relapping the put out more high end. IF you're having wierdness at
10k, there is a possiblity that your heads need relapping.

There are two conflicting forces at work when heads wear. First is
that there's less metal in the core of the inductor, so the inductance
of the head goes down, and therefore the high frequency response
rises. But when you get too far down, the gap widens, and that reduces
the high frequency response.

Fortunately the rise due to metal wear comes enough before the drop
due to metal wear, so if you pay attention to what's happening when
you tweak up the alignment, you'll have warning that it's time to get
the heads fixed up. Of course this removes some metal, so you'll have
a high frequency rise (that you can take care of with the EQ
adjustment) after getting the heads relapped.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

On thing to know about Otari heads - as the get wornd and need
relapping the put out more high end. IF you're having wierdness at
10k, there is a possiblity that your heads need relapping.

There are two conflicting forces at work when heads wear. First is
that there's less metal in the core of the inductor, so the inductance
of the head goes down, and therefore the high frequency response
rises. But when you get too far down, the gap widens, and that reduces
the high frequency response.

Fortunately the rise due to metal wear comes enough before the drop
due to metal wear, so if you pay attention to what's happening when
you tweak up the alignment, you'll have warning that it's time to get
the heads fixed up. Of course this removes some metal, so you'll have
a high frequency rise (that you can take care of with the EQ
adjustment) after getting the heads relapped.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"J.P. Ambrogi" wrote:

Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.


First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net
so there's no excuse not to have it (although it is a 20MB or so
download). I'd follow the proceedure in the manual step by step to start
with - an MTR90 in decent shape is very easy to calibrate. If you get
into real problems then hopefully Chris Notton will appear - he's the
real Otari expert around here.

Cheers.

James.

"J.P. Ambrogi" wrote:

Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.


First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net
so there's no excuse not to have it (although it is a 20MB or so
download). I'd follow the proceedure in the manual step by step to start
with - an MTR90 in decent shape is very easy to calibrate. If you get
into real problems then hopefully Chris Notton will appear - he's the
real Otari expert around here.

Cheers.

James.

In article ,
says...
"J.P. Ambrogi" wrote:

Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.


First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net
so there's no excuse not to have it (although it is a 20MB or so
download). I'd follow the proceedure in the manual step by step to start
with - an MTR90 in decent shape is very easy to calibrate. If you get
into real problems then hopefully Chris Notton will appear - he's the
real Otari expert around here.

Cheers.

James.

Well you've all been so eloquent & helpful!
The only dodge I might add is that you might find it easier to set a
(any) master bias pot in the middle (turn all one way until "click click"

is heard then back 5 turns), select it, and "peak-up" all the individual
biases at the highest frequency on your oscillator then go back to 10k.
to do your over-bias, all your tracks will now track the master-bias pot
perfectly.

Pip pip
--
Chris Notton
Replace "nospam" with my surname to reply by email
Sostituisca il "nospam" con il mio cognome per rispondere
}////(*

In article ,
says...
"J.P. Ambrogi" wrote:

Hi,

I had troubles trying to do the alignment on a MTR90 II.


First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net
so there's no excuse not to have it (although it is a 20MB or so
download). I'd follow the proceedure in the manual step by step to start
with - an MTR90 in decent shape is very easy to calibrate. If you get
into real problems then hopefully Chris Notton will appear - he's the
real Otari expert around here.

Cheers.

James.

Well you've all been so eloquent & helpful!
The only dodge I might add is that you might find it easier to set a
(any) master bias pot in the middle (turn all one way until "click click"

is heard then back 5 turns), select it, and "peak-up" all the individual
biases at the highest frequency on your oscillator then go back to 10k.
to do your over-bias, all your tracks will now track the master-bias pot
perfectly.

Pip pip
--
Chris Notton
Replace "nospam" with my surname to reply by email
Sostituisca il "nospam" con il mio cognome per rispondere
}////(*

James Perrett wrote in message

First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net

Really? I'd like to know the URL (ok, I'll search for that!)...ours is
forever lost!

Anyway, you guys were right! For any reason, I was assuming that I
should use the 1 khz at nominal level to do the Bias adjustment.
Trimming down the oscillator level did the trick!

I'd be very happy to pay each one of you a drink as long as you don't
mind taking a plane to Brazil to get it...

Regards,

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

James Perrett wrote in message

First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net

Really? I'd like to know the URL (ok, I'll search for that!)...ours is
forever lost!

Anyway, you guys were right! For any reason, I was assuming that I
should use the 1 khz at nominal level to do the Bias adjustment.
Trimming down the oscillator level did the trick!

I'd be very happy to pay each one of you a drink as long as you don't
mind taking a plane to Brazil to get it...

Regards,

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

Anyway, you guys were right! For any reason, I was assuming that I
should use the 1 khz at nominal level to do the Bias adjustment.
Trimming down the oscillator level did the trick!

What tape are you using?

With most modern tapes, you will do better by using 10 KHz with overbias
than looking for the peak at 1 KHz. For one thing, the 10 KHz peak is
much narrower. But unless you are using an old-style red-oxide tape,
using the peak at 1 KHz is apt to give you too high a bias level.

With overbias, you find the peak, then you increase the bias until the
playback level drops by a particular amount (which is fudge factor that
is specific to the tape formulation and head gap width and which you can
get off the tape data sheet).

I'd be very happy to pay each one of you a drink as long as you don't
mind taking a plane to Brazil to get it...

It is cold and damp this time of year here, and I assure you I would much
rather be on a beach in Brazil. I do have maracuja tea, though, which is
better than nothing.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

Anyway, you guys were right! For any reason, I was assuming that I
should use the 1 khz at nominal level to do the Bias adjustment.
Trimming down the oscillator level did the trick!

What tape are you using?

With most modern tapes, you will do better by using 10 KHz with overbias
than looking for the peak at 1 KHz. For one thing, the 10 KHz peak is
much narrower. But unless you are using an old-style red-oxide tape,
using the peak at 1 KHz is apt to give you too high a bias level.

With overbias, you find the peak, then you increase the bias until the
playback level drops by a particular amount (which is fudge factor that
is specific to the tape formulation and head gap width and which you can
get off the tape data sheet).

I'd be very happy to pay each one of you a drink as long as you don't
mind taking a plane to Brazil to get it...

It is cold and damp this time of year here, and I assure you I would much
rather be on a beach in Brazil. I do have maracuja tea, though, which is
better than nothing.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

It is cold and damp this time of year here, and I assure you I would much
rather be on a beach in Brazil. I do have maracuja tea, though, which is
better than nothing.
--scott

Yeah! It has a nice and subtle sedative effect with the advantage of
not having to hide it from the police!

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

It is cold and damp this time of year here, and I assure you I would much
rather be on a beach in Brazil. I do have maracuja tea, though, which is
better than nothing.
--scott

Yeah! It has a nice and subtle sedative effect with the advantage of
not having to hide it from the police!

J.P. Ambrogi
Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:
(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!

Definitely go the 10 KHz route. The Otari has .25 mil heads, so with
996 try 3 dB of overbias at 15 ips. Watch out for sticky shed, though.
I have had old 996 go sticky.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

J.P. Ambrogi wrote:
(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2

What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!

Definitely go the 10 KHz route. The Otari has .25 mil heads, so with
996 try 3 dB of overbias at 15 ips. Watch out for sticky shed, though.
I have had old 996 go sticky.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Scott Dorsey wrote:
J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2


What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!


Definitely go the 10 KHz route. The Otari has .25 mil heads, so with
996 try 3 dB of overbias at 15 ips. Watch out for sticky shed, though.
I have had old 996 go sticky.
--scott


I'm a 996 fan and have used a few older reels. Almost
none exhibit sticky shed, although I've had one or two
that did, but it wasn't too bad. Still very playable.

--
--
John Noll
Retromedia Sound Studios
Red Bank, NJ



visit the new website: http://www.retromedia.net

Scott Dorsey wrote:
J.P. Ambrogi wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in message news:cju9nk$le2


What tape are you using?

An old, but still virgin, 3M 996!


Definitely go the 10 KHz route. The Otari has .25 mil heads, so with
996 try 3 dB of overbias at 15 ips. Watch out for sticky shed, though.
I have had old 996 go sticky.
--scott


I'm a 996 fan and have used a few older reels. Almost
none exhibit sticky shed, although I've had one or two
that did, but it wasn't too bad. Still very playable.

--
--
John Noll
Retromedia Sound Studios
Red Bank, NJ



visit the new website: http://www.retromedia.net

"J.P. Ambrogi" wrote:

James Perrett wrote in message

First get hold of the manual - there is a pdf version around on the net

Really? I'd like to know the URL (ok, I'll search for that!)...ours is
forever lost!


I really can't remember where I found it but if you have an email
address that can accept very large attachments then I could send you a
copy.

Cheers.

James.

PS - Chris might be relieved to know that I've also given Ahmed a copy
so hopefully he won't be bugging either of us with basic MTR90 queries
now.

James Perrett wrote in message

I really can't remember where I found it but if you have an email
address that can accept very large attachments then I could send you a
copy.

I would be grateful, James!
My e-mail is:

Regards,

J.P. Ambrogi
Estudio Jardim Elétrico
BRAZIL