Hi. I just took the plunge and plunked down $30 for Wave Repair (Clive, are
you reading this?) So far, it seems to do a much better job than Magix Audio
Cleaning Lab. Not sure how it stacks up against Dart Pro, since I'm still in
a learning curve on that too.

I'm trying to zero in on settings that will remove pops without adding
others. The problem I have is that after cleaning, one time I'll go over a
section and hear clicks/pops, and the next time they won't be there. It also
seems to vary depending on what program I'm doing the playback with - Wave
Repair itself, Soundforge, WinAmp, Creative Recorder, Windows Media Player,
Audio Cleaning Lab, etc. This of course is somewhat aggravating because
obviously I need to know accurately whether there's a click/pop or not.

Is this a common occurence? What are likely culprits? Currently using a
Soundblaster Audigy, IBM PIII 550, Win98SE. Anyone else have experience with
Wave Repair? If so, any inside tips will be appreciated.

Thanks for all input

On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 16:55:02 GMT, "Doc"
wrote:

Hi. I just took the plunge and plunked down $30 for Wave Repair (Clive, are
you reading this?)

As it happens, I am!

I'm trying to zero in on settings that will remove pops without adding
others.

Always a difficult issue. Automatic declicking will inevitably
introduce artifacts some of the time; it can never be perfect all the
time. And of course the optimum settings are different for each LP;
often different across different parts of a single LP.

The problem I have is that after cleaning, one time I'll go over a
section and hear clicks/pops, and the next time they won't be there. It also
seems to vary depending on what program I'm doing the playback with - Wave
Repair itself, Soundforge, WinAmp, Creative Recorder, Windows Media Player,
Audio Cleaning Lab, etc.

I have on very rare occasions experienced this myself, but it is very
infrequent, and I put it down to some sort of interference causing a
tick in the analogue playback chain: perhaps a fridge switching on, or
something similar. But if you're hearing it regularly, then either
you've got a lot of noisy motors switching on & off around you and/or
poorly screened analogue circuitry somewhere.

Another thing I might guess it could be is a dropout problem during
playback, perhaps caused by the IDE controller and soundcard not
co-existing perfectly. Each program will have its own unique buffering
strategy, so you'd expect them to behave slightly differently. Have
you tried experimenting with Wave Repair's buffer settings
(File|Options|Playback/Recording|Configure Soundcard) to see if that
makes any difference?

This of course is somewhat aggravating because
obviously I need to know accurately whether there's a click/pop or not.

Two points to make:
1. If there *is* a click in the WAV file, then it'll get played. So if
you here a click once but when you play it again it's gone, then it
isn't in the WAV file.
2. If you hear a click on repeated playings of the section in
question, the best learning process at this stage is to zoom right in
and try to identify it visually. Developing an instinctive correlation
between how glitches look and sound is one of the most important
skills for successful vinyl restoration.
--
Clive Backham

Note: As a spam avoidance measure, the email address in the header
is just a free one and doesn't get checked very often. If you want to email
me, my real address can be found at: www [dot] delback [dot] co [dot] uk

In article . net, Doc
wrote:

I'm trying to zero in on settings that will remove pops without adding
others. The problem I have is that after cleaning, one time I'll go over a
section and hear clicks/pops, and the next time they won't be there.

Odds are your track is getting fragmented as you work on it and the
hard drive is skipping around to pick up the pieces as it plays.
Instead of just saving it, do a "save as" and create a new file. That
way, your whole track will be laid down on the hard drive in more or
less one piece.

I've found that it's best to do a hand declick pass before turning any
automatic declickers loose. Big gunshot pops will always leave a thud
behind unless you go in and finesse it by hand. Once you've knocked
down the big pops, you can use a lower setting for the little ones and
not get as much artifacting.

Also, ALWAYS ARCHIVE YOUR RAW TRANSFER! You never know when you'll get
a more effective piece of software that will do a better job on the
record. Always back up a copy of your raw transfer before you start
work on it.

See ya
Steve

--
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On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 13:19:45 -0700, Stephen Worth
wrote:

In article . net, Doc
wrote:

I'm trying to zero in on settings that will remove pops without adding
others. The problem I have is that after cleaning, one time I'll go over a
section and hear clicks/pops, and the next time they won't be there.

Odds are your track is getting fragmented as you work on it and the
hard drive is skipping around to pick up the pieces as it plays.
Instead of just saving it, do a "save as" and create a new file. That
way, your whole track will be laid down on the hard drive in more or
less one piece.

I'm sure this might be a factor with some editors, but since Doc is
using Wave Repair, I can offer some inside info. Unless you've done a
"global" type edit which affects every sample in a section (that's
anything off the Noise Reduction or Other Effects menus), then Wave
Repair stores the edits in memory. Moreover, when you write the edits
back to the file, it replaces the original samples with the new ones,
so WAV files don't get fragmented in this way. A file that's been
through Wave Repair should end up no more fragmented than when it went
in, unless you've changed the number of samples in it which will cause
the entire file to be re-written. And in this case, it's rewritten in
one go, but could still end up fragmented if the file system happens
to allocate the blocks to be written from arbitrary scattered places
around the disk. And of course the same thing could easily happen to a
"Save As".

The only time that the hard drive would need to skip around the place
to pick up what's to be played is if you've done one of those "global"
type edits and haven't yet saved them back.

I've found that it's best to do a hand declick pass before turning any
automatic declickers loose. Big gunshot pops will always leave a thud
behind unless you go in and finesse it by hand. Once you've knocked
down the big pops, you can use a lower setting for the little ones and
not get as much artifacting.

I agree 100% with this. Automatic declickers make a dog's dinner of
really big pops.

Also, ALWAYS ARCHIVE YOUR RAW TRANSFER! You never know when you'll get
a more effective piece of software that will do a better job on the
record. Always back up a copy of your raw transfer before you start
work on it.

Good advice. I ought to follow it myself :-)
--
Clive Backham

Note: As a spam avoidance measure, the email address in the header
is just a free one and doesn't get checked very often. If you want to email
me, my real address can be found at: www [dot] delback [dot] co [dot] uk