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#1
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I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for
a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? |
#2
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#3
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#4
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#6
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mike vandy wrote:
I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". Except it doesn't depend that much. Find something that has enough clean power, and is a reasonably good amp, and you can move more important issues like integration of the woofer with your room acoustics. I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? Were I making the choices, I'd pick a Hafler, Crown or QSC amp off of eBay and match it up with an appropriate crossover and maybe a paramedic eq to do the final tuning with. It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? Not if you spend your money wisely. If you spend your money wisely you get what you pay for, but you may find that $1K is much more amp than you really need. I've tested some of those purpose-built subwoofer amps, and find that on a good day you get about $200 worth of amp for your $200. These amps are genially a bit on the cost-effective size. To hit the price point, there may not be a lot of ability to drive low impedance loads, but then again you might need a lot of that. Similarly, the built-in crossover might not be a finely-tuned 24/dB octave design that adds absolutely minimal amounts of noise to the main speaker paths. OTOH, cost-effective though they may be, many of them will still do a good enough job. |
#7
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mike vandy wrote:
I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". Except it doesn't depend that much. Find something that has enough clean power, and is a reasonably good amp, and you can move more important issues like integration of the woofer with your room acoustics. I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? Were I making the choices, I'd pick a Hafler, Crown or QSC amp off of eBay and match it up with an appropriate crossover and maybe a paramedic eq to do the final tuning with. It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? Not if you spend your money wisely. If you spend your money wisely you get what you pay for, but you may find that $1K is much more amp than you really need. I've tested some of those purpose-built subwoofer amps, and find that on a good day you get about $200 worth of amp for your $200. These amps are genially a bit on the cost-effective size. To hit the price point, there may not be a lot of ability to drive low impedance loads, but then again you might need a lot of that. Similarly, the built-in crossover might not be a finely-tuned 24/dB octave design that adds absolutely minimal amounts of noise to the main speaker paths. OTOH, cost-effective though they may be, many of them will still do a good enough job. |
#8
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mike vandy wrote:
I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". Except it doesn't depend that much. Find something that has enough clean power, and is a reasonably good amp, and you can move more important issues like integration of the woofer with your room acoustics. I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? Were I making the choices, I'd pick a Hafler, Crown or QSC amp off of eBay and match it up with an appropriate crossover and maybe a paramedic eq to do the final tuning with. It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? Not if you spend your money wisely. If you spend your money wisely you get what you pay for, but you may find that $1K is much more amp than you really need. I've tested some of those purpose-built subwoofer amps, and find that on a good day you get about $200 worth of amp for your $200. These amps are genially a bit on the cost-effective size. To hit the price point, there may not be a lot of ability to drive low impedance loads, but then again you might need a lot of that. Similarly, the built-in crossover might not be a finely-tuned 24/dB octave design that adds absolutely minimal amounts of noise to the main speaker paths. OTOH, cost-effective though they may be, many of them will still do a good enough job. |
#9
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mike vandy wrote:
I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". Except it doesn't depend that much. Find something that has enough clean power, and is a reasonably good amp, and you can move more important issues like integration of the woofer with your room acoustics. I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? Were I making the choices, I'd pick a Hafler, Crown or QSC amp off of eBay and match it up with an appropriate crossover and maybe a paramedic eq to do the final tuning with. It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? Not if you spend your money wisely. If you spend your money wisely you get what you pay for, but you may find that $1K is much more amp than you really need. I've tested some of those purpose-built subwoofer amps, and find that on a good day you get about $200 worth of amp for your $200. These amps are genially a bit on the cost-effective size. To hit the price point, there may not be a lot of ability to drive low impedance loads, but then again you might need a lot of that. Similarly, the built-in crossover might not be a finely-tuned 24/dB octave design that adds absolutely minimal amounts of noise to the main speaker paths. OTOH, cost-effective though they may be, many of them will still do a good enough job. |
#10
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"mike vandy" wrote in message
m... I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? You don't need $1000 amps for this! You can get up to about 100 watts of cheap subwoofer power from a surplus 50 wpc vintage stereo receiver IF you have two passive subs or a single sub that has two drivers in the same box - just wire them independently to L and R channels and drive the amp in mono. Of course, NEVER wire amplifier O/P's is parallel. You can get even more power from a separate stereo amplifier (I use a Yamaha M4 to drive two separate passive subs, up to over 300 watts total.) But here's the rub, you will likely have to find a LP filter to put before the sub amplifier AUX input. If you use a stereo receiver or so-called integrated amplifier (with pre-amp) the sub-out level from a surround sound receiver will be about right and it is already LP filtered (but likely at a bit too high crossover, but that's another matter.) The stereo amps alone need an external pre-amp and a LP filter if you drive them with full range L and R signals (I had to build a pre-amp and 90 Hz LP filter to get the over 1 volt RMS needed by the M4 from a Yamaha receiver sub-out channel with a 150 Hz X/O.) Cheers, Roger |
#11
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"mike vandy" wrote in message
m... I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? You don't need $1000 amps for this! You can get up to about 100 watts of cheap subwoofer power from a surplus 50 wpc vintage stereo receiver IF you have two passive subs or a single sub that has two drivers in the same box - just wire them independently to L and R channels and drive the amp in mono. Of course, NEVER wire amplifier O/P's is parallel. You can get even more power from a separate stereo amplifier (I use a Yamaha M4 to drive two separate passive subs, up to over 300 watts total.) But here's the rub, you will likely have to find a LP filter to put before the sub amplifier AUX input. If you use a stereo receiver or so-called integrated amplifier (with pre-amp) the sub-out level from a surround sound receiver will be about right and it is already LP filtered (but likely at a bit too high crossover, but that's another matter.) The stereo amps alone need an external pre-amp and a LP filter if you drive them with full range L and R signals (I had to build a pre-amp and 90 Hz LP filter to get the over 1 volt RMS needed by the M4 from a Yamaha receiver sub-out channel with a 150 Hz X/O.) Cheers, Roger |
#12
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"mike vandy" wrote in message
m... I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? You don't need $1000 amps for this! You can get up to about 100 watts of cheap subwoofer power from a surplus 50 wpc vintage stereo receiver IF you have two passive subs or a single sub that has two drivers in the same box - just wire them independently to L and R channels and drive the amp in mono. Of course, NEVER wire amplifier O/P's is parallel. You can get even more power from a separate stereo amplifier (I use a Yamaha M4 to drive two separate passive subs, up to over 300 watts total.) But here's the rub, you will likely have to find a LP filter to put before the sub amplifier AUX input. If you use a stereo receiver or so-called integrated amplifier (with pre-amp) the sub-out level from a surround sound receiver will be about right and it is already LP filtered (but likely at a bit too high crossover, but that's another matter.) The stereo amps alone need an external pre-amp and a LP filter if you drive them with full range L and R signals (I had to build a pre-amp and 90 Hz LP filter to get the over 1 volt RMS needed by the M4 from a Yamaha receiver sub-out channel with a 150 Hz X/O.) Cheers, Roger |
#13
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"mike vandy" wrote in message
m... I'm confused about a certain issue. What is the best amplification for a DIY subwoofer. I know the official answer is "IT DEPENDS". I guess what I'm asking is... should I buy a subwoofer amp (with phase, and low pass filter, volume, etc.).. or should would I get better results with an external amp? It seems strange to me that most subwoofer diy projects use built in amps, which cost 150 bucks or so. On the other hand, amplifiers for high end audio routinely cost much much more. Is a 200 dollar subwoofer amp really as good as building a passive sub and attaching a 1000 dollar external amp to it? You don't need $1000 amps for this! You can get up to about 100 watts of cheap subwoofer power from a surplus 50 wpc vintage stereo receiver IF you have two passive subs or a single sub that has two drivers in the same box - just wire them independently to L and R channels and drive the amp in mono. Of course, NEVER wire amplifier O/P's is parallel. You can get even more power from a separate stereo amplifier (I use a Yamaha M4 to drive two separate passive subs, up to over 300 watts total.) But here's the rub, you will likely have to find a LP filter to put before the sub amplifier AUX input. If you use a stereo receiver or so-called integrated amplifier (with pre-amp) the sub-out level from a surround sound receiver will be about right and it is already LP filtered (but likely at a bit too high crossover, but that's another matter.) The stereo amps alone need an external pre-amp and a LP filter if you drive them with full range L and R signals (I had to build a pre-amp and 90 Hz LP filter to get the over 1 volt RMS needed by the M4 from a Yamaha receiver sub-out channel with a 150 Hz X/O.) Cheers, Roger |
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