My Radio Shack multimeter bit the dust (again) and I'm shopping for
something I won't have to replace for a while. I've seen a ton of
praise in this group for the Fluke 8060A multimeter., but I found an
8050A for sale locally for what I thought was a reasonable price (maybe
I can get one cheaper on Ebay and take a risk on it working).

Anybody know the differences between the 8050A and the 8060A? The
obvious thing is that they're shaped differently: The 8060A is
handheld and presumably battery powered while the 8050A is like a
miniature benchtop meter with an IEC mains jack (but maybe an internal
battery available?). Other than that they look fairly similar. What's
the straight skinny on these guys? Is the 8050A as accurate and
reliable and useful as the 8060A? I'm not too worried about the
batteries Vs. AC power, since I never seem to use my good meter
anywhere there isn't mains power, and i've got cheap junk to measure
the car (which would be a great place to fry the good one). If
anything, it'll prevent me from accidentally leaving the meter on for a
week at a time and draining the batteries ahead of schedule.

ulysses

Justin Ulysses Morse wrote:

My Radio Shack multimeter bit the dust (again) and I'm shopping for
something I won't have to replace for a while. I've seen a ton of
praise in this group for the Fluke 8060A multimeter., but I found an
8050A for sale locally for what I thought was a reasonable price (maybe
I can get one cheaper on Ebay and take a risk on it working).

Anybody know the differences between the 8050A and the 8060A? The
obvious thing is that they're shaped differently: The 8060A is
handheld and presumably battery powered while the 8050A is like a
miniature benchtop meter with an IEC mains jack (but maybe an internal
battery available?). Other than that they look fairly similar. What's
the straight skinny on these guys? Is the 8050A as accurate and
reliable and useful as the 8060A? I'm not too worried about the
batteries Vs. AC power, since I never seem to use my good meter
anywhere there isn't mains power, and i've got cheap junk to measure
the car (which would be a great place to fry the good one). If
anything, it'll prevent me from accidentally leaving the meter on for a
week at a time and draining the batteries ahead of schedule.

Nought wrong with a Fluke, although I personally use the 77 series II
model. IIRC the 8050/60 are more accurate at the expense of power drain.

The 77 self powers-off which is nice. Also consider the true rms 85/87 ?
Nice extra functions including delta(unit) measurements. They also auto
power-off too. Usually just as you pick it up to use - lol.


Graham

Justin Ulysses Morse wrote:

My Radio Shack multimeter bit the dust (again) and I'm shopping for
something I won't have to replace for a while. I've seen a ton of
praise in this group for the Fluke 8060A multimeter., but I found an
8050A for sale locally for what I thought was a reasonable price
(maybe
I can get one cheaper on Ebay and take a risk on it working).

Anybody know the differences between the 8050A and the 8060A? The
obvious thing is that they're shaped differently: The 8060A is
handheld and presumably battery powered while the 8050A is like a
miniature benchtop meter with an IEC mains jack (but maybe an internal
battery available?). Other than that they look fairly similar.
What's
the straight skinny on these guys? Is the 8050A as accurate and
reliable and useful as the 8060A? I'm not too worried about the
batteries Vs. AC power, since I never seem to use my good meter
anywhere there isn't mains power, and i've got cheap junk to measure
the car (which would be a great place to fry the good one). If
anything, it'll prevent me from accidentally leaving the meter on for
a
week at a time and draining the batteries ahead of schedule.

Nought wrong with a Fluke, although I personally use the 77 series II
model. IIRC the 8050/60 are more accurate at the expense of power drain.

The 77 self powers-off which is nice. Also consider the true rms 85/87 ?
Nice extra functions including delta(unit) measurements. They also auto
power-off too. Usually just as you pick it up to use - lol.


Graham

Justin Ulysses Morse wrote:

My Radio Shack multimeter bit the dust (again) and I'm shopping for
something I won't have to replace for a while. I've seen a ton of
praise in this group for the Fluke 8060A multimeter., but I found an
8050A for sale locally for what I thought was a reasonable price (maybe
I can get one cheaper on Ebay and take a risk on it working).

Anybody know the differences between the 8050A and the 8060A? The
obvious thing is that they're shaped differently: The 8060A is
handheld and presumably battery powered while the 8050A is like a
miniature benchtop meter with an IEC mains jack (but maybe an internal
battery available?). Other than that they look fairly similar. What's
the straight skinny on these guys? Is the 8050A as accurate and
reliable and useful as the 8060A? I'm not too worried about the
batteries Vs. AC power, since I never seem to use my good meter
anywhere there isn't mains power, and i've got cheap junk to measure
the car (which would be a great place to fry the good one). If
anything, it'll prevent me from accidentally leaving the meter on for a
week at a time and draining the batteries ahead of schedule.

I have both 8050As and 8060As and they are both damn fine meters.
The one thing they left out on the 8050A was the BEEEEEEEP, which is
a shame, because its real handy when doing quick'n'dirty continuity
tests.
OTOH the 8050A doesnt chew up batteries
OTOOH what else can you do with radio mic batteries that have done one
show except put 'em in the 8060A
M
(mobyATkcbbsDOTgenDOTnz)

Justin Ulysses Morse wrote:

My Radio Shack multimeter bit the dust (again) and I'm shopping for
something I won't have to replace for a while. I've seen a ton of
praise in this group for the Fluke 8060A multimeter., but I found an
8050A for sale locally for what I thought was a reasonable price
(maybe
I can get one cheaper on Ebay and take a risk on it working).

Anybody know the differences between the 8050A and the 8060A? The
obvious thing is that they're shaped differently: The 8060A is
handheld and presumably battery powered while the 8050A is like a
miniature benchtop meter with an IEC mains jack (but maybe an
internal
battery available?). Other than that they look fairly similar.
What's
the straight skinny on these guys? Is the 8050A as accurate and
reliable and useful as the 8060A? I'm not too worried about the
batteries Vs. AC power, since I never seem to use my good meter
anywhere there isn't mains power, and i've got cheap junk to measure
the car (which would be a great place to fry the good one). If
anything, it'll prevent me from accidentally leaving the meter on for
a
week at a time and draining the batteries ahead of schedule.

I have both 8050As and 8060As and they are both damn fine meters.
The one thing they left out on the 8050A was the BEEEEEEEP, which is
a shame, because its real handy when doing quick'n'dirty continuity
tests.
OTOH the 8050A doesnt chew up batteries
OTOOH what else can you do with radio mic batteries that have done one
show except put 'em in the 8060A
M
(mobyATkcbbsDOTgenDOTnz)

Pooh Bear wrote:

The 77 self powers-off which is nice. Also consider the true rms 85/87 ?
Nice extra functions including delta(unit) measurements.

My 8060A was stolen way back when. I've been getting by on a borrowed
87 (first generation) for awhile but recently bought a 189 and WOW,
nifty stuff. Separate displays of AC & DC components of a signal, 100
kHz bandwidth on the AC measurements, data acquisition memory with IR
retrieval of measurements to your PC, yada, yada, yada. 187 offers all
but the data acquisition features for a few less $$.

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...
Nought wrong with a Fluke, although I personally use the 77 series II
model.

On Saturday I forgot my trusty 75 outside when I was in a hurry to get to
the gig. It rained for 12 hours followed by freezing cold for another day
before my son found it. I took out the circuit board on put it top of the
furnace for a day, and the damn thing has come back to life again. Pretty
impressive for a 15 year old DMM.

Sean

"Kurt Albershardt" wrote in message
...
Pooh Bear wrote:

The 77 self powers-off which is nice. Also consider the true rms 85/87 ?
Nice extra functions including delta(unit) measurements.

My 8060A was stolen way back when. I've been getting by on a borrowed
87 (first generation) for awhile but recently bought a 189 and WOW,
nifty stuff. Separate displays of AC & DC components of a signal, 100
kHz bandwidth on the AC measurements, data acquisition memory with IR
retrieval of measurements to your PC, yada, yada, yada. 187 offers all
but the data acquisition features for a few less $$.

Dunno about the 8050aa, but I have an 8020a (great with True RMS, dB, and
'relative' dB), and a 73, with contionuity/semiconductor-test beep, and
auto-power-off. But also an old 8600A, which has a red LED readout that is
SOOOOO much better than LCD.

geoff

I have both 8050As and 8060As and they are both damn fine meters.
The one thing they left out on the 8050A was the BEEEEEEEP, which is
a shame, because its real handy when doing quick'n'dirty continuity
tests.

You need to have the beep function. It's just so wonderful. I'd sooner
have a cheap B&K Precision with the beep than a more accurate and rugged
Fluke without it.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On 17 Dec 2003 10:36:59 -0500, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:

I have both 8050As and 8060As and they are both damn fine meters.
The one thing they left out on the 8050A was the BEEEEEEEP, which is
a shame, because its real handy when doing quick'n'dirty continuity
tests.

You need to have the beep function. It's just so wonderful. I'd sooner
have a cheap B&K Precision with the beep than a more accurate and rugged
Fluke without it.
--scott
True...But the B&K Precision chews up batteries like it was designed
by Eveready :-(

Scott Dorsey wrote:

I have both 8050As and 8060As and they are both damn fine meters.
The one thing they left out on the 8050A was the BEEEEEEEP, which is
a shame, because its real handy when doing quick'n'dirty continuity
tests.

You need to have the beep function. It's just so wonderful. I'd sooner
have a cheap B&K Precision with the beep than a more accurate and rugged
Fluke without it.

I'd rather have both. I'ma get me an 8050A and another cheap RS meter
for the beeps. I can buy a much cheaper cheap RS meter for the beeps
since I won't need it for accurate measurements.

ulysses