[ChrisCoaster]

whew

Please excuse me for HOLLERING, but I had to stand out amidst all the
Winnabegos and other crap these infiltrators are hocking on here.

So, will http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062758
and a roll of standard 60/40 do the trick? I'm talking 18-20 gauge
speaker wire on a portable here, not home speakers.

Thanks,

-ChrisCoaster

[Dick Pierce]

On Jul 14, 5:22*pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:
whew

Please excuse me for HOLLERING, but I had to stand out amidst all the
Winnabegos and other crap these infiltrators are hocking on here. *

So, will *http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062758
and a roll of standard 60/40 do the trick? *I'm talking 18-20 gauge
speaker wire on a portable here, not home speakers.

Thanks,

-ChrisCoaster

Ordinary rosin-core electrical/electronic solder
with an adequate size iron is perfect for the job
I would take a pair of fine needle nose pliers and
clamp them down hard on the terminal between
where you are soldering and where the terminals
are riveted onto the insulating carrier strip to
forestall any heat damage that might otherwise
occur.

[ChrisCoaster]

On Jul 14, 5:40*pm, Dick Pierce
wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:22*pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:

whew

Please excuse me for HOLLERING, but I had to stand out amidst all the
Winnabegos and other crap these infiltrators are hocking on here. *

So, will *http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062758
and a roll of standard 60/40 do the trick? *I'm talking 18-20 gauge
speaker wire on a portable here, not home speakers.

Thanks,

-ChrisCoaster

Ordinary rosin-core electrical/electronic solder
with an adequate size iron is perfect for the job
I would take a pair of fine needle nose pliers and
clamp them down hard on the terminal between
where you are soldering and where the terminals
are riveted onto the insulating carrier strip to
forestall any heat damage that might otherwise
occur.
_____________
My problem is, and I know you're supposed to heat the part you're
soldering TO, not what you are soldering to it - with the iron, but it
seems to take forever. I'm basically replacing what looks like 22AWG
speakerwire in a detachable boombox with 20AWG. I mean, the original
wires look like doorbell wire, and I really have to crank the volume
to hear much.

So I know I have to desolder all that old wire off the eyeholes of
those terminals before putting the 20 on. I'm assuming it's 22AWG -
of course, there's no rating on the wire itself.

-CC

[Dick Pierce]

On Jul 14, 5:53*pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:
My problem is, and I know you're supposed to
heat the part you're soldering TO, not what you
are soldering to it - with the iron, but it
seems to take forever. *

Well, uhm. Are you soldering the wire to the terminal
or the terminal to the wire (hint: it doesn't make
any difference: you're soldering BOTH to each other).

So, the trick is you have to heat BOTH parts. And
you have to use a clean iron of adequate power:
Too low a power means that the temperature of the
tip drops precipitously when it comes in contact
with the work, and the operation ends up being
a mess.

I'm basically replacing what looks like 22AWG
speakerwire in a detachable boombox with 20AWG. *
I mean, the original wires look like doorbell wire,
and I really have to crank the volume to hear
much.

If you think that's going to make any real difference,
you're going to be very disappointed.

How long are the wires, 10 feet? 10 feet of 22 gauge
speaker wire will have a resistance of 0.32 ohms, while
10 feet of 20 gauge will have a resistance of 0.2 ohms,
Assume nominal 8 ohms speakers, switching from
22 to 20 gauge will give you a 0.13 dB increase in
sound for the same volume setting. That's basically
completely inaudible under all but very controlled
situations. Even if you're starting with 24 gauge
(0.5 ohms) and switch to 18 gauge (0.13 ohms),
that's only going to give you, at most, less than
0.4 dB of level increase.

Basically, unless the wires are broken or the
solder joints are bad, your speaker wires almost
certainly NOT the problem. Substituting heavier
wires is going to be a total waste of time an effort
to cure that problem.

So I know I have to desolder all that old wire
off the eyeholes of those terminals before
putting the 20 on. *I'm assuming it's 22AWG -
of course, there's no rating on the wire itself.

If you want to demonstrate the problem, get
come heavier gauge speaker wire and some
screw-terminal alligator clips and simply clip
the wires on without desoldering the other wires
(making sure you observe polarity): that'll
quickly prove whether the wires are the problem
or not.

But, unless the wires are actually broken,
you don't have a problem that new wires will
solve.

[ChrisCoaster]

On Jul 14, 6:54*pm, Dick Pierce
wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:53*pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:

My problem is, and I know you're supposed to
heat the part you're soldering TO, not what you
are soldering to it - with the iron, but it
seems to take forever. *

Well, uhm. Are you soldering the wire to the terminal
or the terminal to the wire (hint: it doesn't make
any difference: you're soldering BOTH to each other).

So, the trick is you have to heat BOTH parts. And
you have to use a clean iron of adequate power:
Too low a power means that the temperature of the
tip drops precipitously when it comes in contact
with the work, and the operation ends up being
a mess.

I'm basically replacing what looks like 22AWG
speakerwire in a detachable boombox with 20AWG. *
I mean, the original wires look like doorbell wire,
and I really have to crank the volume to hear
much.

If you think that's going to make any real difference,
you're going to be very disappointed.

How long are the wires, 10 feet? 10 feet of 22 gauge
speaker wire will have a resistance of 0.32 ohms, while
10 feet of 20 gauge will have a resistance of 0.2 ohms,
Assume nominal 8 ohms speakers, switching from
22 to 20 gauge will give you a 0.13 dB increase in
sound for the same volume setting. That's basically
completely inaudible under all but very controlled
situations. Even if you're starting with 24 gauge
(0.5 ohms) and switch to 18 gauge (0.13 ohms),
that's only going to give you, at most, less than
0.4 dB of level increase.

Basically, unless the wires are broken or the
solder joints are bad, your speaker wires almost
certainly NOT the problem. Substituting heavier
wires is going to be a total waste of time an effort
to cure that problem.

So I know I have to desolder all that old wire
off the eyeholes of those terminals before
putting the 20 on. *I'm assuming it's 22AWG -
of course, there's no rating on the wire itself.

If you want to demonstrate the problem, get
come heavier gauge speaker wire and some
screw-terminal alligator clips and simply clip
the wires on without desoldering the other wires
(making sure you observe polarity): that'll
quickly prove whether the wires are the problem
or not.

But, unless the wires are actually broken,
you don't have a problem that new wires will
solve.
____________________
So basically, it's just an underpowered boombox?

BTW three feet of speaker wire couldn't be wrapped around the storage
posts on the backs of the speakers on this thing, let alone ten!
Remember, its' a late 80s JVC boombox we're talking about here. The
speakers detach, and can each be placed about two feet from the center
section(dual cassette, tuner, etc.).

I collect and restore(within my capability) any ghetto blasters I can
get ahold of that were manufactured before the Bush years - and that's
papa, mind you. They make excellent platforms for mp3 players with
the aux jacks pretty much all of them had, and most of them had
reasonable shortwave tuners(ever hear of that on a box nowadaze??).
You could check BBC news or practice a language you were learning, or
synch all the clocks in the house with the universal time signals.

I got this piece off e-bay for 1/2 of what it cost new, and the worst
problems with it were just a load of dust and grime covering it from
top to bottom. Everything works, just had to spray compressed air in
the volume & balance controls to stop the crackling.

An awesome piece, typical vintage JVC - good sound - just wish it
played a *little* louder.

[Peter Larsen[_3_]]

ChrisCoaster wrote:

So basically, it's just an underpowered boombox?

Those things are loud as hell. It is idiotic to assume that it is a wire
gauge prohlem, which is what Dick tried to convey to you in a very
diplomatic manner and with good explanations.

An awesome piece, typical vintage JVC - good sound - just wish it
played a *little* louder.

You need to consider the possibility that it is actually somehow broken,
perhaps start with the proper question: my new old jvc boom box off of ebay
is not loud enough?

note: you have accepted it by starting to "do things" to fix it, imo you
should have tried to negotiate a refund. Last time I looked they still were
available over the counter. Is it something simple like an inch of dirt on
both sides of the speaker membranes or are the bass loudspeakers dead?

Kind regards

Peter Larsen

[ChrisCoaster]

On Jul 15, 2:15*am, "Peter Larsen" wrote:
ChrisCoaster wrote:
So basically, it's just an underpowered boombox?

Those things are loud as hell. It is idiotic to assume that it is a wire
gauge prohlem, which is what Dick tried to convey to you in a very
diplomatic manner and with good explanations.

An awesome piece, typical vintage JVC - good sound - just wish it
played a **little* louder.

You need to consider the possibility that it is actually somehow broken,
perhaps start with the proper question: my new old jvc boom box off of ebay
is not loud enough?

note: you have accepted it by starting to "do things" to fix it, imo you
should have tried to negotiate a refund. Last time I looked they still were
available over the counter. Is it something simple like an inch of dirt on
both sides of the speaker membranes or are the bass loudspeakers dead?

* Kind regards

* Peter Larsen
_______________________
I never disagreed with Dick's reasoning. The only thing I had to
point out was that on a boombox you're not going to have 10feet of
wire per speaker on a detachable model - as I stated, maybe 2-3 feet
maximum extension.

I've blown the dirt off everything with compressed air. And yes, the
woofers do indeed work. This thing hardly sounds like a pocket
transistor, which is what it would sound like if the woofers were
dead. In Mono the sound from all sources is well balanced, left-to-
right, and as far as frequency resp goes. In stereo, the effects of
panning on certain songs is readily heard, and there is no drop-out in
frequency resp left to right. I usually leave the EQ flat unless
what I am listening to needs emphasis at certain frequencies.

Again, I have issue with these speaker wires because to me they are no
thicker than the wires going to a Walkman headphone. I suspect they
are "choking" the sound and am willing to undergo replacing them with
one gauge size up. Can't hurt, as long as I watch polarity as Dick
said and use a strong enough kit.

-CC

[Dick Pierce]

On Jul 15, 6:02*am, ChrisCoaster wrote:
On Jul 15, 2:15*am, "Peter Larsen" wrote:

ChrisCoaster wrote:
So basically, it's just an underpowered boombox?

Those things are loud as hell. It is idiotic to assume that it is a wire
gauge prohlem, which is what Dick tried to convey to you in a very
diplomatic manner and with good explanations.

An awesome piece, typical vintage JVC - good sound - just wish it
played a **little* louder.

You need to consider the possibility that it is actually somehow broken,
perhaps start with the proper question: my new old jvc boom box off of ebay
is not loud enough?

note: you have accepted it by starting to "do things" to fix it, imo you
should have tried to negotiate a refund. Last time I looked they still were
available over the counter. Is it something simple like an inch of dirt on
both sides of the speaker membranes or are the bass loudspeakers dead?

* Kind regards

* Peter Larsen

_______________________
I never disagreed with Dick's reasoning. *
The only thing I had to point out was that
on a boombox you're not going to have 10feet of
wire per speaker on a detachable model - as
I stated, maybe 2-3 feet maximum extension.

Which makes replacing the wires as a "cure"
even sillier.

Again, I have issue with these speaker wires
because to me they are no thicker than the
wires going to a Walkman headphone. *I
suspect they are "choking" the sound

And you are wrong, simple as that.

and am willing to undergo replacing them
with one gauge size up. *

And as little sense as your original proposal
made, this one makes even less sense.

Can't hurt, as long as I watch polarity as Dick
said and use a strong enough kit.

Perhaps you will discover that adding new wires
to a piece of sh*t will result in a piece of sh*t
with new wires.

[GregS[_3_]]

In article , ChrisCoaster wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:40=A0pm, Dick Pierce
wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:22=A0pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:

whew

Please excuse me for HOLLERING, but I had to stand out amidst all the
Winnabegos and other crap these infiltrators are hocking on here. =A0

So, will =A0http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3D206=
2758
and a roll of standard 60/40 do the trick? =A0I'm talking 18-20 gauge
speaker wire on a portable here, not home speakers.

Thanks,

-ChrisCoaster

Ordinary rosin-core electrical/electronic solder
with an adequate size iron is perfect for the job
I would take a pair of fine needle nose pliers and
clamp them down hard on the terminal between
where you are soldering and where the terminals
are riveted onto the insulating carrier strip to
forestall any heat damage that might otherwise
occur.
_____________
My problem is, and I know you're supposed to heat the part you're
soldering TO, not what you are soldering to it - with the iron, but it
seems to take forever. I'm basically replacing what looks like 22AWG

They say that so you don't get a big blob of solder prior to soldering.
I almost always apply a LITTLE dap of solder a half second on the
tip prior to soldering or hold the solder between the tip and and terminal.
When I am soldering very small components, you cannot
apply solder after heating the component. It must be ready to go with
some flux that has not evaporated.
When using a non temperature controlled iron, the solder
on the tip becomes a mass thats very difficult to get heat flow.
Clean the tip and immediately begin soldering. I also
frequently grind or rotate the tip on large items to get that
heat flowing quickly.

greg



speakerwire in a detachable boombox with 20AWG. I mean, the original
wires look like doorbell wire, and I really have to crank the volume
to hear much.

So I know I have to desolder all that old wire off the eyeholes of
those terminals before putting the 20 on. I'm assuming it's 22AWG -
of course, there's no rating on the wire itself.

[Richard Crowley]

"ChrisCoaster" wrote ...
An awesome piece, typical vintage JVC - good sound - just wish it
played a *little* louder.

Replacing functioning wires with larger ones is GUARANTEED
to NOT make it play ANY louder. Dunno how many different
ways of saying this it will take to convince you?

If there is actually something limiting the signal into the power
amplifier, then you should fix THAT problem. If the system is
just not as loud as you need, then dump it and get a louder one.
No amount of soldering wires will have any effect on how loud
something like this plays.

[Mr.T]

"Dick Pierce" wrote in message
...
Perhaps you will discover that adding new wires
to a piece of sh*t will result in a piece of sh*t
with new wires.

Of course, but it can't hurt for him to find out the hard way. He might
learn something, whereas he won't believe you otherwise.

MrT.

[Richard Crowley]

ChrisCoaster wrote:
Perhaps you are as ignorant as to my intended use of capitals as is
alleged I am about the effect of upgrading speaker wire on my boombox.
As I said, I may have given the appearance of "hollering", but when
one has this: ......................

75 lines of spam snipped

................to stand out against, - CAPITALS ARE THE WAY TO GO!
Notice two other actual "technical" posts above - "SANSA HELP" and
manuals for "WINNEBAGO" and "SNOW BLOWER" - they're in caps also -
wanna correct them too, while you're at it?

THANK YOU.

You are reading this newsgroup on "Google Groups". You should know
by now that Google Groups is the SOURCE of the spam and Google is
the primary ENABLER of most of the spammers on Usenet today.

DO NOT complain to us about spam on Google Groups. If you chose
to use Google Groups, then you have chosen to live in the spam pit.
The rest of us use proper newsreader clients and NNTP services which
do NOT propogate all that spam. Our newsreader clients also allow us
to filter out whatever we wish (including spam repeat-offenders) I have
seen NONE of the spam you claim to be complaining about.

As far as I am concerned, you are very close to being polonked by
me for boorish behavior including inappropriate shouting and for
deliberately quoting 75 lines of spam. Behave yourself or your will
find a prominent position on my twit-list.