Hi Guys,

First, let me apologise for not following my intial thread. I got busy at
work and forgot all about it, although I read right up until the last post
on checking mechanical problems vs power. I appreciate all the help -
believe me. These recorders ain't exactly 'Ipods' when it comes to online
user help.

Anyway, without dragging this through the muck again, I've contacted my
local vintage repair technician, and I'm being quoted about (min) $150.00
for an overhaul. While I don't think this is exhorbitant, it's still pricy.
Is there anythingthing else I can look into myself, before I give the go
ahead. The main, and only problem I can determine, is the recorder is
running too fast. I tried it on dry cells and the 'official' Uher power
supply, but the results are the same.

Several posters remarked it might simply be dirty / worn puck / loose
belt...I forget. However, common sense tells me this would make the machine
run slow as opposed to fast. At very least, wow and flutter would be
terrible. That's not the case - the machine runs fast on battery or AC.

The flashing yellow LED is called the "indicator" - it stays lit during
rewind and FF, but flickers during play and record.

If anyone has any ideas in the next day or so, I'd be grateful. It's going
in for servicing Wednesday or Thursday latest. As you can tell, I'm simply
trying to avoid spending extra cash if it's something I can fix myself.
However, I'm not holding my breath - this is a servo transport machine and
looks very complex inside. The funny thing is - it still sounds great. (Just
off-speed)

Sorry for the re-post - but you guys know your stuff.
Mike T.

Mike Tschel. wrote:

Anyway, without dragging this through the muck again, I've contacted my
local vintage repair technician, and I'm being quoted about (min) $150.00
for an overhaul. While I don't think this is exhorbitant, it's still pricy.
Is there anythingthing else I can look into myself, before I give the go
ahead. The main, and only problem I can determine, is the recorder is
running too fast. I tried it on dry cells and the 'official' Uher power
supply, but the results are the same.

Several posters remarked it might simply be dirty / worn puck / loose
belt...I forget. However, common sense tells me this would make the machine
run slow as opposed to fast. At very least, wow and flutter would be
terrible. That's not the case - the machine runs fast on battery or AC.

If it isn't one of these, it WILL BE soon enough. This machine has
probably been around for years without any service. At the very least
it needs a cleaning and lubrication, a new pinch roller, and new belts,
on top of whatever else is wrong with it. Any machine from that era
that hasn't been serviced in five or six years will.

You need to perform regular preventative maintenance on equipment. When
you take something out of storage, you will probably need to tear it down,
clean it, and do a general check of the signal path to make sure it meets
original specs. This stuff does not run forever without maintenance.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

In article writes:

Anyway, without dragging this through the muck again, I've contacted my
local vintage repair technician, and I'm being quoted about (min) $150.00
for an overhaul. While I don't think this is exhorbitant, it's still pricy.

Get used to it. That's barely enough to cover opening it up and
putting it back together after a cleaning and replacing worn parts.
Old stuff costs money to keep working. The only reason why we don't
say the same about new stuff is that when new stuff quits working we
throw it away. g

Several posters remarked it might simply be dirty / worn puck / loose
belt...I forget.

Those are all the things that would go into an "overhaul." If the
pinch roller isn't pinching as much as it should, this could make the
tape move fast because its speed won't be controlled by the capstan,
but rather by the reel motors. It's possible that it's an adjustment
(some motors have a little pot in back to set the speed), or it may be
an electronic problem, depending on the type of motor.

Are you able to take it apart far enough to look it over really well?
And then put it back together? That's the starting point.

If anyone has any ideas in the next day or so, I'd be grateful. It's going
in for servicing Wednesday or Thursday latest. As you can tell, I'm simply
trying to avoid spending extra cash if it's something I can fix myself.

If it was really something you could fix yourself, you would have had
the confidence to dig into it already. Better send it out. And ask the
tech if he has a speed test tape so he can set it properly (if it's an
adjustment) and not just set it by ear. Sure, you can record a
reference pitch on another deck, but how would you know THAT one was
right on speed?




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1111495246k@trad...

In article writes:

Anyway, without dragging this through the muck again, I've contacted my
local vintage repair technician, and I'm being quoted about (min)
$150.00
for an overhaul. While I don't think this is exhorbitant, it's still
pricy.

Get used to it. That's barely enough to cover opening it up and
putting it back together after a cleaning and replacing worn parts.
Old stuff costs money to keep working. The only reason why we don't
say the same about new stuff is that when new stuff quits working we
throw it away. g

Several posters remarked it might simply be dirty / worn puck / loose
belt...I forget.

Those are all the things that would go into an "overhaul." If the
pinch roller isn't pinching as much as it should, this could make the
tape move fast because its speed won't be controlled by the capstan,
but rather by the reel motors. It's possible that it's an adjustment
(some motors have a little pot in back to set the speed), or it may be
an electronic problem, depending on the type of motor.

Are you able to take it apart far enough to look it over really well?
And then put it back together? That's the starting point.

If anyone has any ideas in the next day or so, I'd be grateful. It's
going
in for servicing Wednesday or Thursday latest. As you can tell, I'm
simply
trying to avoid spending extra cash if it's something I can fix myself.

If it was really something you could fix yourself, you would have had
the confidence to dig into it already. Better send it out. And ask the
tech if he has a speed test tape so he can set it properly (if it's an
adjustment) and not just set it by ear. Sure, you can record a
reference pitch on another deck, but how would you know THAT one was
right on speed?

Well, I'll answer the last question first - I have access to a variety of
tone generators where I work. However, the easiest way is to record an
'A440' tone and check it against a 20 dollar guitar tuner. Or in the
computer with some 'scope shareware.

But, you're right, if I had the confidence and knowledge, I'd have already
dug around inside a bit further - but I do not. Sending it out (found a good
guy locally after two weeks) is the way to go.

I have no objection to the fee. I know perfectly well what bench time can
cost, but ya' can't blame a guy for hoping it might be an little pot on the
motor that I might be able to adjust myself. This is not the case here - I
suspect the speed regulator needs some attention. In fact $150 for an
overhaul is a bargain if you ask me as I own several vinatge instruments
(ARP synthesizers) which cost the moon to repair. (Components are 'epoxied'
in, making individual circuit replacement impossible. Usually, a donor synth
needs to be purchased...so $150 ain't my problem at all!)

Anyway, I totally agree that older / vintage / Euro gear needs regular
maintenance. In a way, that's what make it fun to own esp. if we can do it
ourselves. However, I'm no engineer but I'm smart enough to realise
professional servicing is my next step.

Thanks for the recent and older posts on my problem - never hurts to ask.
Best regards,
Mike T.







--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

Well, I'll answer the last question first - I have access to a variety of
tone generators where I work. However, the easiest way is to record an
'A440' tone and check it against a 20 dollar guitar tuner. Or in the
computer with some 'scope shareware.

Right - but my question was about how you know that the recorder that
you make your A-440 test tape on is running at the correct speed? This
is why you need a standard test tape, one that was made on a recorder
that someone knows is running at the correct speed. Similar to the
reason why you need a standard alignment tape for setting up the heads
and electronics - it has to be made on a machine that you know is
properly calibrated.

But, you're right, if I had the confidence and knowledge, I'd have already
dug around inside a bit further - but I do not. Sending it out (found a good
guy locally after two weeks) is the way to go.

That sounds like a smart move. Of course you can learn by doing, but
chances are you'll mess up some things for a while. Not a good idea
to learn on something that you really want to work again.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1111580511k@trad...

In article writes:

Well, I'll answer the last question first - I have access to a variety
of
tone generators where I work. However, the easiest way is to record an
'A440' tone and check it against a 20 dollar guitar tuner. Or in the
computer with some 'scope shareware.

Right - but my question was about how you know that the recorder that
you make your A-440 test tape on is running at the correct speed? This
is why you need a standard test tape, one that was made on a recorder
that someone knows is running at the correct speed. Similar to the
reason why you need a standard alignment tape for setting up the heads
and electronics - it has to be made on a machine that you know is
properly calibrated.

But, you're right, if I had the confidence and knowledge, I'd have
already
dug around inside a bit further - but I do not. Sending it out (found a
good
guy locally after two weeks) is the way to go.

That sounds like a smart move.

That's the first time I've been accused of that! Lol.

Of course you can learn by doing, but
chances are you'll mess up some things for a while. Not a good idea
to learn on something that you really want to work again.

Yes - and I want this guy working properly. However, I sure learned a few
things during this little exchange. This NG is one of my favorites.

Best regards,
Mike T.





--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo