"Stephen Sank" wrote in
:
Rustoleum gloss black is not quite black enough. Pretty close, but it
will be visible under all but dim lighting. I haven't found a black
enough black enamel yet, but haven't done much hunting. The bubbling, I
believe, is simply air penetration under the edge of the paint,
gradually progressing further along. It doesn't happen very often at
the edges of the whole panel because the frame bits literally hold down
the paint.
Stephen,
I am quite pleased with my test results tonight!
I went to Home Depot and all they had was spray Rustoleum in a can. Stopped
at Lowes and they had Valspar brand. I tried the gloss black and under the
incandescent lights, it looks like an exact match! I will look again in the
daylight and see what it looks like. I sprayed some in a disposable cup
similar to a condiment cup one would get from a carry out restaurant, and
poured it on my test glass. Dense and really black. I think the spray paint
has more pigment in it because the spray puts on a thinner coat than a brush
would. As a result, the paint is "blacker" than the stuff in a can.
If things look good in the daylight, I will do a compatibilty test to see if
the spray paint will react with the paint that is there. If it doesnt react
too badly, then I am good to go!
I will keep you posted.
r
--
Stephen Sank, Owner & Ribbon Mic Restorer
Talking Dog Transducer Company
http://stephensank.com
5517 Carmelita Drive N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico [87111]
505-332-0336
Auth. Nakamichi & McIntosh servicer
Payments preferred through Paypal.com
"Rich Andrews" wrote in message
.44...
"tap1n" wrote in
et:
How does Terry say to go about repairing that bubble?
The method is basically simple. Remove the bubbled/damaged paint/ink
and paint it. Terry said to use an X-Acto knife to remove the damaged
paint,
(I
used a single edged razor blade) and then drip Rustoleum gloss black
(Audio
classics says to use gloss black model paint) on the area. If
lettering
is
involved, then you are out of luck as that gets lifted with the black.
I
am
going to attempt to repair the panloc bubbles as well but it may
require
the
dexterity of a surgeon and a little luck to preserve the lettering. Mc
should have never used epoxy to hold those panloc grommets in place.
They shouldn't have glued foam to the painted glass either. If one
has an airbrush, that might work, but one would have to experiment. I
am going
to
go for the Rustoleum. I trust Terry's restoration experience over
AC's. AFAIK Terry is a perfectionist and I like that when it comes to
appearance issues. (:)
Mc used some sort of foam with adhesive on the edges of the glass to
prevent
the glass from rattling. My theory is that either the foam or the
adhesive
combined with moisture causes the paint to bubble and lift. The panloc
issue
is caused by epoxy? that holds the plastic grommet to the front panel.
It seems that the grommet was never really tight against the front so
pushing
on
it lifts the paint and lettering. I ran an idea by Terry and he has
yet
to
reply so I am hesitant to say what it is.
I forgot to ask Terry if one could use a clear coat to preserve the
rest
of
the faceplate. I would be extremely hesitant as it might cause the
entire faceplate to bubble.
r
"Rich Andrews" wrote in message
.44...
(StuWelwood) wrote in
:
Does anyone have a method to touch up a front glasss that is
bubbling?
Why not give McIntosh a call? They often get older gear in for
repairs,
and
they should be able to make it like new. What model are we talking
about?
Stuart Welwood
http://members.aol.com/StuWelwood
Stuart,
The model is MI3. I called Audio Classics, Mc, and Terry at
McIntoshAudio.com. The glass is not available from any of the above
sources
for the MI3. Terry described a procedure to repair the bubbled
paint/ink
areas so I think I am good to go. I know why the ink bubbles and
there
is
no
hope. It is going to happen. I am sure Mc really didn't know what
was
going
to happen, it is just a shame that it does. Lets look at it this
was,
what
does one expect from a 30+ year old piece of gear?
On a different note, the MI3 I have has an open HV winding. I was
going
to
make a tripler using the remaining 330VAC tap. What sort of
additional
load
does a tripler present to that tap? It has been too long since I
messed
with
circuits of this nature.
r
--
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic."
Arthur C. Clarke (1917 - ), "Technology and the Future"
--
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic."
Arthur C. Clarke (1917 - ), "Technology and the Future"
--
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic."
Arthur C. Clarke (1917 - ), "Technology and the Future"