[Peter Wieck]

Jerry wrote:

To implement this, all I did was cut the lead on the pots going to the
drivers and the leads at the top of the pot. Twisted these together and
soldered. Put on a wire connector and sandwiched between mounds of
fiberglass (or whatever that itchy stuff is).

The yellow wires are still connected to the pots and from the pots on to the
drivers. Everything else is exactly as it was. All the reactive components
are intact.

OK, on the schematic (OEM), there is still 16 ohms in parallel with
each driver to ground, and 32 ohms across both drivers. If I read you
correctly, you have removed the green wire & the output wire from the
tweet-pot, joined them, and left them separated from the pot. The pot
is now out-of-circuit altogether.

On the Mid side (again, if I read you correctly), you have removed the
choke wire and the wire to the mid from the pot, joined those and left
them separate from the pot. Now that pot is also out-of-circuit, as
well as delivering maximum brightness to the mid. So, not only is the
resistor gone across the drivers, but also across the pair. This will
increase the impedance of the speaker overall, and, of course, the
tweet and the mid. It will also send _ALL_ of the energy across the two
drivers, dissipating none of it across the two TWENTY-FIVE WATT, 16 ohm
fixed resistors (elements of the pots) as they are now out-of-circuit.
You are correct (more-or-less) in that it will not affect the frequency
performance of the crossover, but it will change its function.

Is this correct? On mine, I have soldered the output wire to the 'high
side', but I have left the fixed elements of the pots in place
electrically. This gains the 1dB - 3dB that the pot-in-place wastes,
and with replacement of the caps with 'tighter' caps, makes the speaker
a good deal clearer, at least to me. But there could be _A LOT_ of
power going into those beasts, I question the wisdom of pulling the
pots out of the circuit entirely.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA