In article , ChrisCoaster wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:40=A0pm, Dick Pierce
wrote:
On Jul 14, 5:22=A0pm, ChrisCoaster wrote:
whew
Please excuse me for HOLLERING, but I had to stand out amidst all the
Winnabegos and other crap these infiltrators are hocking on here. =A0
So, will =A0http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3D206=
2758
and a roll of standard 60/40 do the trick? =A0I'm talking 18-20 gauge
speaker wire on a portable here, not home speakers.
Thanks,
-ChrisCoaster
Ordinary rosin-core electrical/electronic solder
with an adequate size iron is perfect for the job
I would take a pair of fine needle nose pliers and
clamp them down hard on the terminal between
where you are soldering and where the terminals
are riveted onto the insulating carrier strip to
forestall any heat damage that might otherwise
occur.
_____________
My problem is, and I know you're supposed to heat the part you're
soldering TO, not what you are soldering to it - with the iron, but it
seems to take forever. I'm basically replacing what looks like 22AWG
They say that so you don't get a big blob of solder prior to soldering.
I almost always apply a LITTLE dap of solder a half second on the
tip prior to soldering or hold the solder between the tip and and terminal.
When I am soldering very small components, you cannot
apply solder after heating the component. It must be ready to go with
some flux that has not evaporated.
When using a non temperature controlled iron, the solder
on the tip becomes a mass thats very difficult to get heat flow.
Clean the tip and immediately begin soldering. I also
frequently grind or rotate the tip on large items to get that
heat flowing quickly.
greg
speakerwire in a detachable boombox with 20AWG. I mean, the original
wires look like doorbell wire, and I really have to crank the volume
to hear much.
So I know I have to desolder all that old wire off the eyeholes of
those terminals before putting the 20 on. I'm assuming it's 22AWG -
of course, there's no rating on the wire itself.