Matt Ion Wrote:
wrote:
The yellow leads on the ATX supply should be the +12V, black for
ground (to keep
it easy, just use one of the HDD power connectors, instead of the ATX
plug).
Antenna and amp turnon are +12V output - on some decks, both simply
come on when
the deck is on; with others, the antenna lead will only come on when
the radio
portion is on. Illumination and Dimmer wires are typicallly tied
into the
dashlights in some cars (one or the other, not both) - with some
decks, it will
simply dim the display a set amount when the dashlights are on; with
others, the
brightness can be controlled along with the dashlights. Of course,
how well all
that works also depends on how the dashlights are wired in the car,
too...
Not that any of this is relevant to you, I only offer it for
informational
purposes (aince Atomic Fusion was unclear). If MOSFET has unblocked
me again,
he'll say I'm showing off... actually, I'm just rambling for
something to do...
No, thanks to both of you. I've heard people describe this before,
but
they only talked about the wires used, never mentioning the other
wires, and I was like WTF? what about the other wires? Always good
to
have the full amount of info when dealing with stuff like this.
So the blue/white wire is for an aftermarket amp? I wasn't sure if
it
was the internal amp, etc.
Thanks again.
What the blue wires do is provide a 12V OUTPUT when the deck is powered
on (and
sometimes, as I said, only when the radio is on - these are rare, but
they can
be confusing if a radio-only antenna trigger is used for an amp,
because the amp
keeps shutting off when a tape/cd/etc is played, but works fine with
the radio).
It's not intended to actually power the external amp or antenna, it
only
provides a low-current turn-on trigger.
The amp or antenna will typically have another power feed connected to
a source
capable of higher current: in the case of most amps, that's a
connection
directly to the battery; for most power antennas, it's usually at least
a
connection to SOME constant-power source (the antenna still needs to be
able to
retract when the ignition/accessory switch is turned off) though not
necessarily
its own connection straight to the battery.
Glad you found the information useful - my philosophy is to try to
explain HOW
and WHY things work, rather than just saying "connect slot A to tab B",
because
in my experience, more knowledge is NEVER a bad thing, and if someone
can learn
a little something and not need to ask "stupid questions", then
everyone's
happier. To my mind, it also helps foster DISCUSSIONS, rather than
just
maintaining a Q&A forum - your experience is an example.
If that makes me a show-off, so be it... at least one person now has a
better
understanding of our shared hobby, and that's always a Good Thingtm.
Lose the attitude, punk. If you've answered this question as many times
as I have, you wouldn't be writing paragraphs about it, either. You've
spent more time rambling about your practices on education and
inferring how unclear I was than actually answering his question. I
deliberately left a few bits out to corner him into using some basic
deductive logic (descriptions of all the deck wires are available in
his manual, and telling him to hook up to +12 volts on the power supply
forces him to think about that particular matter as well).
I rigged this up by myself when I was twelve years old with no help at
all, so I don't mind leaving some bits for people to figure on their
own.
Adam
--
Atomic Fusion