"Fella" wrote in message
...
Trevor Wilson wrote:

"Fella" wrote in message
.. .

François Yves Le Gal wrote:



Add some differential breakers ASAP, and check with a local electrician
if a
proper ground can be installed.




Thanks Francois and others that have answered. My system indeed is
designed for grounded outlets. As F. Yves Le Gal says, the Linn
especially warns in the manual that I should use a grounded outlet. I had
never taken this thing seriously until this thread.

What are "differential breakers"? If I could know the concept or perhaps
what kind device is in question I will buy it ASAP. Google didn't help
much.. I'll also try to find an english speaking electrician in these
woods that would undertand my quest for differential breakers.. I have
this newly acquired buddy that builds amps (valve stuff) so perhaps he
might know also.


**I am unfamiliar with the term 'differential breakers', but I would bet
that it refers to a core balance circuit breaker, which detects any
difference between active and neutral current flow. Any difference
indicates that current is flowing to earth. Either through a leaky path
(a human, perhaps) or the earthing on the appliance itself.



Thanks Trevor, Francois explained the same thing I guess. I will either
draw a gorunded line from the nearest grounded outlet in the house to the
hifi room now, or get these devices (looks as though they are special kind
of outlets of a sort).

**Such switches are (now) very cheap and easy to buy. Here in Australia
(and, I presume everywhere else), they can be purchased in several forms:

* A master switch, which covers the whole building. This will normally be
installed by a suitably qualified person at the switch box. Here in
Australia, all new residences must be fitted with such switches, by law. I
use this system on a sub-board for my workshop. As I regularly trip the
breaker, it does not interfere with the rest of the building and, of course,
the computers. Cost around $30.00 + fitting costs (around $100.00-$150.00).

* A plug in switch, which effectively converts an existing switch (but none
others) to a safety outlet. Very handy, when dealing with situations where
only one outlet needs to be protected. Cost around $30.00.

* An extension lead, fitted with a switch. Does the same job as above. Handy
when working remote from the building. Cost around $40.00.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au