Coincidentally, there is a general discussion about amplifiers under "Any
Opinions on an Adcom".

I don't have direct experience with the the original VR-4, but I have helped
a friend of mine select an amp for the current VR-4. Unfortunately, many
"bright" amplifiers synergize poorly with these speakers, while "smooth"
amplifiers provide inadequate definition.

If tight woofer control is a priority, this mandates either a large bipolar
amp, or a Hafler Transnova MOSFET design. However, such a choice may result
in concommitant nastiness in the lower treble. MOSFET designs work well in
this range. You might consider biamping -- use of a commercial bipolar amp
on the bottom, and a MOSFET choice up top. Hafler P-series amps are cheap
and extremely good. You could start with one full range. If you find the
combination has low treble harshness, you could add a conventional MOSFET
amp in a biamp configuration.

Another choice we found extremely pleasant is full range use of a Hafler
XL-600, rated at 306 watts/channel/8 ohms, clipping at 426/channel/8, 450
watts/channel/4 ohms. A very, very smooth amplifier, with very good bass
control, just shy of excellent.

Another amplifier my friend liked was the Odyssey, although it was not my
favorite. Unfortunately, this unit is built in the modern, "faux" style,
with huge heatsinks that barely connect to anything inside

These are amplifiers I've actually tried with something close to what you
have.

The high end of sound reinforcement can be quite rewarding. Beware of the
cheaper stuff. Although I've never heard a modern Crown amp, I would not be
hostile to it. But your speakers are hard to match to.

As for whether a top-notch sound reinforcement amp is the equal of a Krell,
I, too, wonder. The differences are undoubtedly fine. Synergy is probably
more relevant than universal optimality. For this reason, I would beware of
any choice of new technology, such as a switching amp, that you cannot
audition with the speakers.

As an aside, I know someone who is completey satisfied with a Hafler XL-280
running VR-7's. I am surprised bass control is satisfactory, but this person
assures me it is. This amp is also available very reasonably on eBay.


wrote in message
...
Howdy,

Well, after a 10 year absence from this hobby, I was thrust back in
yesterday when my beloved Sumo Andromeda III blew the left channel
rail fuses, and subsequent replacments blew as well. I've been told
that fixing it will be tough, particuarly finding replacment parts.
As such, I think it's time to begin looking for a new amplifier.

Being away for a while, I'm not up on new technologies, but I see that
the Krell's of the world are still peddling $10K amplifiers. Way out
of my price range unfortunately. I'm hoping that those of you who
have remained engaged in the hobby might help me narrow my research.
With that said, I'll let the questions fly!!! 8)

1. What's this new technology called ICEpower that is evidently being
embraced by Rowland, eAR, B&O and others? I remember connecting a
500/wpc Carver amp to some Martin Logan's, and the load choked the
amp. Is this new digital technology capable of driving complex loads?
How can such a small, mid-priced amplifier deliver 1000/wpc with
little heat? Is this for real?

2. What's the deal with "commercial" amplifiers, like those from
Crown? I owned some Crown equipment many moons ago, and at the time,
it was considered "high-end." How does something like this differ
from a Krell or Levinson? There's only a handful of ways to skin a
can so-to-speak, so from a technological perspective, are the designs
similar? What do you get from a Krell besides the exotic exterior?

3. Sumo offered the magic blend of "high-end" for the average Joe;
power, sonic performance and value. Is anyone doing this today, or
has the high-end gone completely high-end?

4. Recommendations for an amplifier in the 200/wpc+ range would be
appreciated.

This will be powering Von Schweikert VR-4's (the original) in a very
large room. I need something to control the low-end of the VR-4's to
make sure everything is tight, and I do want something neutral that
has sufficient current to deliver good power.

Thanks in advance!!!