New install question?

[Branden Nelsen]

I am going to be doing an install in my car. For the first time its going to
be a NICE install not just toss the items into the trunk and be done with
it. My car has a 120 amp alternator with a 90 amp battery. Its a 99' BMW
528i. I'm going to be installing 2 - 12" L7's each with a Directed 1100d (so
2 amps). My question is. Do I need to install a standard Cap? or possibly a
BatCap in the mix to cover the power draw those amps will have? What type of
power upgrade might I need to do?

--
Thank you,

~~~
Branden Nelsen

[KU40]

don't put in any caps. You'll have some issues with power when the subs
are totally cranked, so if you find it is too bad, buy a higher output
alt.

I'd use 1/0 or 2/0 guage power wire from the battery to the amps. Also
upgrade the electrical wires under the hood, most specifically Alt+ to
battery+, battery- to chassis, and chassis to engine block. that helps
as well.


--
KU40

[Branden Nelsen]

Hehe... unfortunately that is easier said then done. BMW's the batteries are
installed in the trunk not under the hood. Thanks for the input, keep 'em
coming :)

-Branden


"KU40" > wrote in message
...
>
> don't put in any caps. You'll have some issues with power when the subs
> are totally cranked, so if you find it is too bad, buy a higher output
> alt.
>
> I'd use 1/0 or 2/0 guage power wire from the battery to the amps. Also
> upgrade the electrical wires under the hood, most specifically Alt+ to
> battery+, battery- to chassis, and chassis to engine block. that helps
> as well.
>
>
> --
> KU40

[KU40]

well then you'll definitely want to upgrade the alternator to battery
line. I'd even take it to 1/0 or 2 guage.


--
KU40

[Captain_Howdy]

Your alternator will do just fine for those two amplifiers, I would stall a
good size cap right before the amplifiers and replace the battery with a dry
cell such as an Optima as they charge faster then acid based batteries and
will take a major load off the alternator. You should also upgrade the
alternator to battery cable, 4 gauge will do just fine since your battery is
in the trunk, anything bigger then that is a waste of cash. You really don't
need to mess around with grounds since you can run them right off the battery,
and you can't get a better ground then that.


In article >, "Branden Nelsen"
> wrote:
>I am going to be doing an install in my car. For the first time its going to
>be a NICE install not just toss the items into the trunk and be done with
>it. My car has a 120 amp alternator with a 90 amp battery. Its a 99' BMW
>528i. I'm going to be installing 2 - 12" L7's each with a Directed 1100d (so
>2 amps). My question is. Do I need to install a standard Cap? or possibly a
>BatCap in the mix to cover the power draw those amps will have? What type of
>power upgrade might I need to do?
>

[Erik]

Branden Nelsen wrote:
> I am going to be doing an install in my car. For the first time its going to
> be a NICE install not just toss the items into the trunk and be done with
> it. My car has a 120 amp alternator with a 90 amp battery. Its a 99' BMW
> 528i. I'm going to be installing 2 - 12" L7's each with a Directed 1100d (so
> 2 amps). My question is. Do I need to install a standard Cap? or possibly a
> BatCap in the mix to cover the power draw those amps will have? What type of
> power upgrade might I need to do?
>
> --
> Thank you,
>
> ~~~
> Branden Nelsen

Brandon,

Sounds like this will be an extremely loud setup... Are you planning
on competing?

Couple of questions for you. Are you going to be putting the subs in a
sealed or ported enclosure? Are you going to use the dual 4 ohm or
dual 2 ohm subs? If you're trying to get the most out of your amps,
the dual 2 ohm would be best, as you can wire the coils in series and
then wire the subs in parallel to get a final impedance of 2 ohms.
Perfect for running a pair of 1100D in master/slave mode. (Which I'd
recommend rather than running a single amp to each sub... gain matching
is a pain the rear when they're not bridged/synced.)

Also, which version of the 1100d are you planning on using? The 1999
or 2002?

You can run either model in synced bridge mode for 2200 watts into a 2
ohm load, which may be more convenient than running one of them to each
sub. (Probably easier than having to match the gains on the individual
amps.)

What do you have for components in your vehicle? With that much power
you're going to need some impressive front stage speakers or all that
bass is going to drown out your mids and highs :)

Another option you may want to look at is the eD 15spv2 in a ported
box. With 2200 watts you should easily get into the 145dB+ range. A
lot cheaper than a pair of the L7. And you could dot it with a
reasonably sized enclosure.

If you're not plan on competing... lol... then 2200 watts for a daily
driver is total overkill!!

I ran a single 12" Brahma in a 1.2ft^3 sealed enclosure @ 1ohm powered
by a (1999) 1100d and it was more than enough. Got it metered at
137dB, (listening to real music, not a test tone) which is impressive
for a single 12" in a non-ported enclosure designed for *music*.

Be safe! With that setup you can do some serious damage to the ears...

Later,

E

[Brandon Buckner]

Erik wrote:
> Brandon,
>
> Sounds like this will be an extremely loud setup... Are you planning
> on competing?
>
> Couple of questions for you. Are you going to be putting the subs in a
> sealed or ported enclosure? Are you going to use the dual 4 ohm or
> dual 2 ohm subs? If you're trying to get the most out of your amps,
> the dual 2 ohm would be best, as you can wire the coils in series and
> then wire the subs in parallel to get a final impedance of 2 ohms.
> Perfect for running a pair of 1100D in master/slave mode. (Which I'd
> recommend rather than running a single amp to each sub... gain matching
> is a pain the rear when they're not bridged/synced.)
>
> Also, which version of the 1100d are you planning on using? The 1999
> or 2002?
>
> You can run either model in synced bridge mode for 2200 watts into a 2
> ohm load, which may be more convenient than running one of them to each
> sub. (Probably easier than having to match the gains on the individual
> amps.)


I'm not Branden, the OP, but I'm a friend of his and know the setup as
I'll be conscripted to help. Not competing, he just likes it loud. He's
got the dual 2-ohm versions, and they're the 1999 style 1100d amps. I've
also got one of the 1999s and two of the 2002 series and am very
familiar with them and how they are set up.

I did recommend he use the sync'd gain master/slave configuration. He'd
like to be able to only use one sub in some instances for some reason
instead of just turning down the volume or gain knob so a bridged config
wouldn't work.

He's also going for a ported enclosure

Brandonb

[Erik]

Brandon Buckner wrote:
> Erik wrote:
> > Brandon,
> >
> > Sounds like this will be an extremely loud setup... Are you planning
> > on competing?
> >
> > Couple of questions for you. Are you going to be putting the subs in a
> > sealed or ported enclosure? Are you going to use the dual 4 ohm or
> > dual 2 ohm subs? If you're trying to get the most out of your amps,
> > the dual 2 ohm would be best, as you can wire the coils in series and
> > then wire the subs in parallel to get a final impedance of 2 ohms.
> > Perfect for running a pair of 1100D in master/slave mode. (Which I'd
> > recommend rather than running a single amp to each sub... gain matching
> > is a pain the rear when they're not bridged/synced.)
> >
> > Also, which version of the 1100d are you planning on using? The 1999
> > or 2002?
> >
> > You can run either model in synced bridge mode for 2200 watts into a 2
> > ohm load, which may be more convenient than running one of them to each
> > sub. (Probably easier than having to match the gains on the individual
> > amps.)
>
>
> I'm not Branden, the OP, but I'm a friend of his and know the setup as
> I'll be conscripted to help. Not competing, he just likes it loud. He's
> got the dual 2-ohm versions, and they're the 1999 style 1100d amps. I've
> also got one of the 1999s and two of the 2002 series and am very
> familiar with them and how they are set up.
>
> I did recommend he use the sync'd gain master/slave configuration. He'd
> like to be able to only use one sub in some instances for some reason
> instead of just turning down the volume or gain knob so a bridged config
> wouldn't work.
>
> He's also going for a ported enclosure
>
> Brandonb

Running 2200 watts into a pair of sealed L7 is probably overkill, but
not unreasonable.

In a ported enclosure, though, 2200 watts is too much and you risk
blowing the subs. A single 1100D will push them to full excursion.

[Branden Nelsen]

As BrandonB said.

I have the 2ohm DVC L7's. They are the 99' version of the 1100d's, and more
then likely it will be in a ported box. Also other then comps around the
local area, its not going to be a comp car in the larger spec. Also the
reason that im going for abit of "overkill" is that in BMW's they are VERY
VERY well sound deadened, Between the trunk and the cabin there is about 4"
of pure sound deadening, 6" of Seat and 1" of solid Metal firewall that i
have to some how get the sound through.

As far as the front stage, the BMW has a Fully amp'd 10 Speaker Alpine
setup. Fronts: 2 - 5.25" mids and 4 - 1" tweets. in the rear is 2 - 5.25
mids and 2 - 1" tweets.

Im not sure how the setup will be yet in the car. All i know is that it will
be completely custom and built into the trunk, not just a toss in box.

-Branden


"Erik" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> Brandon Buckner wrote:
>> Erik wrote:
>> > Brandon,
>> >
>> > Sounds like this will be an extremely loud setup... Are you planning
>> > on competing?
>> >
>> > Couple of questions for you. Are you going to be putting the subs in a
>> > sealed or ported enclosure? Are you going to use the dual 4 ohm or
>> > dual 2 ohm subs? If you're trying to get the most out of your amps,
>> > the dual 2 ohm would be best, as you can wire the coils in series and
>> > then wire the subs in parallel to get a final impedance of 2 ohms.
>> > Perfect for running a pair of 1100D in master/slave mode. (Which I'd
>> > recommend rather than running a single amp to each sub... gain matching
>> > is a pain the rear when they're not bridged/synced.)
>> >
>> > Also, which version of the 1100d are you planning on using? The 1999
>> > or 2002?
>> >
>> > You can run either model in synced bridge mode for 2200 watts into a 2
>> > ohm load, which may be more convenient than running one of them to each
>> > sub. (Probably easier than having to match the gains on the individual
>> > amps.)
>>
>>
>> I'm not Branden, the OP, but I'm a friend of his and know the setup as
>> I'll be conscripted to help. Not competing, he just likes it loud. He's
>> got the dual 2-ohm versions, and they're the 1999 style 1100d amps. I've
>> also got one of the 1999s and two of the 2002 series and am very
>> familiar with them and how they are set up.
>>
>> I did recommend he use the sync'd gain master/slave configuration. He'd
>> like to be able to only use one sub in some instances for some reason
>> instead of just turning down the volume or gain knob so a bridged config
>> wouldn't work.
>>
>> He's also going for a ported enclosure
>>
>> Brandonb
>
> Running 2200 watts into a pair of sealed L7 is probably overkill, but
> not unreasonable.
>
> In a ported enclosure, though, 2200 watts is too much and you risk
> blowing the subs. A single 1100D will push them to full excursion.
>