Building a Ported box in little place.

[jimbo_limited]

What i got to work with is a 94 Chrysler LHS. Indeed they have a huge trunk but what i want to do is to mount this box under the Rear deck. Now the dimentions i worked with is Max Width 33.5" and Height 17.125". I came up with blueprints for building this box. What i want is comments, Recomendations, and what not.

Now the way this ported box is being built is the port being on the bottom of the box (Unlike most ports going through the middle of the box). Inside of the Box will be divided in half with a sheet of wood for each sub to have its own enclosure or part.

Here are my dimentions:

Height: 16.75
Width: 32
Depth: 16


Port Size Height: 3
Port width: 30.5
Port Size Depth: 14

If you need more information about it, ask me and i'll do my best to describe my blueprints.


Thanks


Ps: What is best to use to hold the box together? Nails or Screws?

[Matt Ion]

jimbo_limited wrote:
> What i got to work with is a 94 Chrysler LHS. Indeed they have a huge
> trunk but what i want to do is to mount this box under the Rear deck.
> Now the dimentions i worked with is Max Width 33.5" and Height 17.125".
> I came up with blueprints for building this box. What i want is
> comments, Recomendations, and what not.
>
> Now the way this ported box is being built is the port being on the
> bottom of the box (Unlike most ports going through the middle of the
> box). Inside of the Box will be divided in half with a sheet of wood
> for each sub to have its own enclosure or part.
>
> Here are my dimentions:
>
> Height: 16.75
> Width: 32
> Depth: 16
>
>
> Port Size Height: 3
> Port width: 30.5
> Port Size Depth: 14
>
> If you need more information about it, ask me and i'll do my best to
> describe my blueprints.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Ps: What is best to use to hold the box together? Nails or Screws?

Too lazy dig into the specs of your box, but as for the construction: use a good
QUALITY carpenter's glue, not some school-type white glue or something...
ultimately, it's the glue that holds the box together (a good glue bond will
actually be stronger than the wood it's bonding).

Screws essentially are there for the sole purpose of holding the box together
until the glue sets (in some cases I've even seen the screws removed after). If
you REALLY want to do it properly, drill a pilot hole and countersink for the
screws first, to avoid splitting the wood... although in reality I've never
actually seen this be a problem - a good quality 3/4" or better MDF won't split
if you use nice thin screws.

[Captain_Howdy]

How many subs?
What size are the subs?
What is the model number of the subs?
How thick is the wood that you are using?
What are the port tuned at ?

Is there a reason why you are using a single port with a dual chamber
configuration to me it just does not make sense, since with a single port the
two chambers are still going to be interconnected if they are sharing one
port?





In article >, jimbo_limited
> wrote:
>
>What i got to work with is a 94 Chrysler LHS. Indeed they have a huge
>trunk but what i want to do is to mount this box under the Rear deck.
>Now the dimentions i worked with is Max Width 33.5" and Height 17.125".
>I came up with blueprints for building this box. What i want is
>comments, Recomendations, and what not.
>
>Now the way this ported box is being built is the port being on the
>bottom of the box (Unlike most ports going through the middle of the
>box). Inside of the Box will be divided in half with a sheet of wood
>for each sub to have its own enclosure or part.
>
>Here are my dimentions:
>
>Height: 16.75
>Width: 32
>Depth: 16
>
>
>Port Size Height: 3
>Port width: 30.5
>Port Size Depth: 14
>
>If you need more information about it, ask me and i'll do my best to
>describe my blueprints.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Ps: What is best to use to hold the box together? Nails or Screws?
>
>
>
>

[MOSFET]

If
> you REALLY want to do it properly, drill a pilot hole and countersink for
the
> screws first, to avoid splitting the wood... although in reality I've
never
> actually seen this be a problem - a good quality 3/4" or better MDF won't
split
> if you use nice thin screws.

All very good advice.

Also, don't use cardboard as your box material (granted, not a common
practice, but I DID see someone do it once).

Just trying to help.

MOSFET

[Matt Ion]

MOSFET wrote:
> If
>
>>you REALLY want to do it properly, drill a pilot hole and countersink for
>
> the
>
>>screws first, to avoid splitting the wood... although in reality I've
>
> never
>
>>actually seen this be a problem - a good quality 3/4" or better MDF won't
>
> split
>
>>if you use nice thin screws.
>
>
> All very good advice.
>
> Also, don't use cardboard as your box material (granted, not a common
> practice, but I DID see someone do it once).

Would be interesting seeing how they attached the subs to that! Yikes!

On that note, avoid plywood and particle board as well... Medium Density
Fiberboard aka MDF or Medite is the box material of choice.

[D.Kreft]

Others have given you some really good advice. I'd like to throw in a
couple more cents: read the tutorials at
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141, particularly
"Designing Subwoofer Enclosures", "Ports" and "Bracing
Techniques"...all of which will apply to your situation.

And assuming you use ample glue (make sure you have a wet rag handy to
wipe-up the ooze), all you need are nails to hold the box together
while it dries. As noted by another poster, the glue is what actually
holds the box together and once it dries, the hardware (nails or
screws) could actually be removed (though there's no sense in doing
this--leave it there.

-dan

[Matt Ion]

D.Kreft wrote:
> Others have given you some really good advice. I'd like to throw in a
> couple more cents: read the tutorials at
> http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141, particularly
> "Designing Subwoofer Enclosures", "Ports" and "Bracing
> Techniques"...all of which will apply to your situation.
>
> And assuming you use ample glue (make sure you have a wet rag handy to
> wipe-up the ooze), all you need are nails to hold the box together
> while it dries. As noted by another poster, the glue is what actually
> holds the box together and once it dries, the hardware (nails or
> screws) could actually be removed (though there's no sense in doing
> this--leave it there.

I would recommend screws over nails - nails are far more likely to split the
wood (granted, it's probably a 1-in-50 chance vs. 1-in-100 for screws: rare, but
the chance exists, especially if you're too close to an edge). We used to use
drywall screws - they're a thin shank with fairly deep threads, so they bite
well without displacing too much wood, thus further reducing the chance of
splitting.

[MOSFET]

> Would be interesting seeing how they attached the subs to that! Yikes!
>
It was some kid about 10 years ago and he used the box the sub came in (a
15" Series One from RF) as the enclsore. I think he might have used tape to
attach the sub to the box (though I don't remember that detail).

It sounded as bad as you can POSSIBLY imagine.

MOSFET

[D.Kreft]

Matt Ion wrote:

> I would recommend screws over nails - nails are far more likely to split the
> wood (granted, it's probably a 1-in-50 chance vs. 1-in-100 for screws: rare, but
> the chance exists, especially if you're too close to an edge). We used to use
> drywall screws - they're a thin shank with fairly deep threads, so they bite
> well without displacing too much wood, thus further reducing the chance of
> splitting.

Sorry, should have qualified myself...you don't want to go using
railroad spikes. Simple finishing nails are just fine. Professional box
builders (the JL Audio assembly line comes to mind :-) uses pneumatic
nail guns. I can still here that "ka-tss" in my head.

-dan

[Matt Ion]

D.Kreft wrote:
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>
>>I would recommend screws over nails - nails are far more likely to split the
>>wood (granted, it's probably a 1-in-50 chance vs. 1-in-100 for screws: rare, but
>>the chance exists, especially if you're too close to an edge). We used to use
>>drywall screws - they're a thin shank with fairly deep threads, so they bite
>>well without displacing too much wood, thus further reducing the chance of
>>splitting.
>
>
> Sorry, should have qualified myself...you don't want to go using
> railroad spikes. Simple finishing nails are just fine. Professional box
> builders (the JL Audio assembly line comes to mind :-) uses pneumatic
> nail guns. I can still here that "ka-tss" in my head.

Yeah, that would work too... a nail gun would certainly be the most efficient. :)