How do I RE-CHARGE a cap ??? Do I need to ??

[rcjesse]

I recently removed my system from one car and in the process of installing
it in another one. I cannot remember if I even charged my 3 farad cap when I
first bought it, or just hooked the wires straight in to it, but it was
reading 11-13 V all the time when the system was running. Does this means it
was working properly?
Now that I removed it from constant power, would I need to charge it slowly
with a light?? How exactly do I do this? Or would it be ok just plugging it
in to the battery power? Thanks.

[MOSFET]

You can hook the postive and negative wires straight to the cap, no problem.
The reason most caps included resistors for this processs is because of the
large spark that usually occurs when contact with the battery and the cap is
first made (keep in mind, a cap can INSTANTANTLY swallow TONS of current and
this is what produces the large spark). But as long as you realize this and
take some precautions (like eye protection), there is no reason why you HAVE
to use any type of resistor to charge your cap (of course, the whole process
of charging does not even need to be done as the cap will obviously be
charged when hooked up to the system).

If you feel safer using a resistor, this group's FAQ at:
http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

can give you the proper resistor values you will need.

MOSFET

"rcjesse" > wrote in message
news:ZQSFg.422$TA5.284@fed1read09...
> I recently removed my system from one car and in the process of installing
> it in another one. I cannot remember if I even charged my 3 farad cap when
I
> first bought it, or just hooked the wires straight in to it, but it was
> reading 11-13 V all the time when the system was running. Does this means
it
> was working properly?
> Now that I removed it from constant power, would I need to charge it
slowly
> with a light?? How exactly do I do this? Or would it be ok just plugging
it
> in to the battery power? Thanks.
>
>

[rcjesse]

Thanks. You are always a great contributor to everyones questions.

"MOSFET" > wrote in message
...
> You can hook the postive and negative wires straight to the cap, no
> problem.
> The reason most caps included resistors for this processs is because of
> the
> large spark that usually occurs when contact with the battery and the cap
> is
> first made (keep in mind, a cap can INSTANTANTLY swallow TONS of current
> and
> this is what produces the large spark). But as long as you realize this
> and
> take some precautions (like eye protection), there is no reason why you
> HAVE
> to use any type of resistor to charge your cap (of course, the whole
> process
> of charging does not even need to be done as the cap will obviously be
> charged when hooked up to the system).
>
> If you feel safer using a resistor, this group's FAQ at:
> http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
>
> can give you the proper resistor values you will need.
>
> MOSFET
>
> "rcjesse" > wrote in message
> news:ZQSFg.422$TA5.284@fed1read09...
>> I recently removed my system from one car and in the process of
>> installing
>> it in another one. I cannot remember if I even charged my 3 farad cap
>> when
> I
>> first bought it, or just hooked the wires straight in to it, but it was
>> reading 11-13 V all the time when the system was running. Does this means
> it
>> was working properly?
>> Now that I removed it from constant power, would I need to charge it
> slowly
>> with a light?? How exactly do I do this? Or would it be ok just plugging
> it
>> in to the battery power? Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>

[KU40]

yeah, he is. and now that the great question answerer is here, I have a
question about this itchy rash...


--
KU40

[MOSFET]

"KU40" > wrote in message
...
>
> yeah, he is. and now that the great question answerer is here, I have a
> question about this itchy rash...
>
Two words: Gold Bond.

MOSFET

[Matt Ion]

> "MOSFET" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>You can hook the postive and negative wires straight to the cap, no
>>problem.
>>The reason most caps included resistors for this processs is because of
>>the
>>large spark that usually occurs when contact with the battery and the cap
>>is
>>first made (keep in mind, a cap can INSTANTANTLY swallow TONS of current
>>and
>>this is what produces the large spark). But as long as you realize this
>>and
>>take some precautions (like eye protection), there is no reason why you
>>HAVE
>>to use any type of resistor to charge your cap (of course, the whole
>>process
>>of charging does not even need to be done as the cap will obviously be
>>charged when hooked up to the system).
>>
>>If you feel safer using a resistor, this group's FAQ at:
>>http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
>>
>>can give you the proper resistor values you will need.
>>
>>MOSFET

Of coruse, calculating such resistor values is really a lot of work for such a
simple and short-lived task... the easy way is just to put a regular automotive
light bulb in series with the cap and leave it there until the bulb goes out, as
suggested in the FAQ.