long post, need help wiring a 72 beetle system..

[Kamikaze]

hi, i couldn't locate a faq anywhere online for this, i know it's a
siple question, i just haven't dabbled in car audio in years and
wanted to make sure i didn't destroy my stuff. if anyone has any
helpful advise or recomendations, please do tell!
here's the situation:
I have a JVC "kd-sx990" mp3 cd deck in my car. Some OLD Fisher
"st-830" speakers in my room. and an Alpine "MRV-T320" amp.

First and foremost, the speakers were meant for home audio, so they
are 8ohm. I need to bridge these to 4ohm, i know that much, what i'm
not quite confident on is the procedure to do so. If i recall right, i
take both negatives and both positives and splice them to one line.

Next concern, stereo is 200w, i assume it's 50w per speaker assuming
four are hooked up. Amp is "80w x 2/220w x 1 bridged". is that
supposed to tell me it kicks out 220 w if you bridge it once? and is
this setup going to destroy the subs which are old enough to have an
input power of 10-100w even if i don't crank it up?

wow, long post, very sorry for wasting your time with such newbie
nonsense but i GREATLY appreciate you reading this far and hopefully
responding with something other than telling me to bugger off...

kamikaze

[DJ TecThreat]

"Kamikaze" > wrote in message
om...
> hi, i couldn't locate a faq anywhere online for this, i know it's a
> siple question, i just haven't dabbled in car audio in years and
> wanted to make sure i didn't destroy my stuff. if anyone has any
> helpful advise or recomendations, please do tell!
> here's the situation:
> I have a JVC "kd-sx990" mp3 cd deck in my car. Some OLD Fisher
> "st-830" speakers in my room. and an Alpine "MRV-T320" amp.
>
> First and foremost, the speakers were meant for home audio, so they
> are 8ohm. I need to bridge these to 4ohm, i know that much, what i'm
> not quite confident on is the procedure to do so. If i recall right, i
> take both negatives and both positives and splice them to one line.
>
> Next concern, stereo is 200w, i assume it's 50w per speaker assuming
> four are hooked up. Amp is "80w x 2/220w x 1 bridged". is that
> supposed to tell me it kicks out 220 w if you bridge it once? and is
> this setup going to destroy the subs which are old enough to have an
> input power of 10-100w even if i don't crank it up?
>
> wow, long post, very sorry for wasting your time with such newbie
> nonsense but i GREATLY appreciate you reading this far and hopefully
> responding with something other than telling me to bugger off...

First off, you have the bridging method correct, wiring them parallel will
cut the 8 ohm load to 4 ohm.

I'd like to ask why you would want to do this? i mean home audio isnt
really intended for cars its not just the load it presents to the amp but
its more than that. The drivers and boxes are designed to be in wide open
room. Car speakers (and enclosers) for the most part are designed to be in
well... cars.

It should work. Chances are you will blow them speakers regardless, if you
under power them you will probably clip them and fry them anyway if you over
power them chances are they will just collapse from the beating you give
them as you try to get them to a reasonable listening level inside a car
(trunk i presume?).

Its not that long of a post but i highly recommend you just spend a little
money and get you're self some decent speakers. Were you planning on using
these for bass or full range? If you tell me what you were planning i can
recommend some better stuff for it.

DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat

[Les]

"DJ TecThreat" <beaniATcharterDOTnetNOSPAM> wrote in message
>
> I'd like to ask why you would want to do this? i mean home audio isnt
> really intended for cars its not just the load it presents to the amp but
> its more than that. The drivers and boxes are designed to be in wide open
> room. Car speakers (and enclosers) for the most part are designed to be
in
> well... cars.

Since we are talking generally there are really not that many differences in
home vs car speakers. They both operate the same way. The 2 main differences
that I have picked out is different impedences (although in home self-
powered subs I have found that many drivers are 4ohm) and materials. Foam
surrounds are fairly commonplace in home audio but they disenegrate
relatively quick in the elements of a car. You also have different cone
materials etc. designed to withstand the elements of the car. Generally
speaking the wide open room vs. cars is not important.


>
> It should work. Chances are you will blow them speakers regardless, if you
> under power them you will probably clip them and fry them anyway

How are you going to do this? I would like to know who clipping is going to
fry the drivers.


if you over
> power them chances are they will just collapse from the beating you give
> them as you try to get them to a reasonable listening level inside a car
> (trunk i presume?).

This is the more likely case.

>
> Its not that long of a post but i highly recommend you just spend a little
> money and get you're self some decent speakers. Were you planning on using
> these for bass or full range? If you tell me what you were planning i
can
> recommend some better stuff for it.


I agree that you should invest in new speakers for several reasons. The
power handling of your drivers is likely very low, knowing fisher speakers.
You likely have foam surrounds, which will quickly cease to exist in your
car. Your speakers are not designed for bass drivers, which is what I assume
you are after.

Check out Ebay and you can pick up a decent sub and box combo for fairly
cheap. In the end I think you will be much happier and it will last much
longer.

Les